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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:43 PM
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57. Install the first of the side planking overlapping the stem post and butting against the cut bottom planking at the bow with the Medium CA glue. Work your way back gluing as you go every six inches or so. Remember that the side planking will transition to overlapping bottom planking at the eleven and twelve planks. After the first side plank in glued in position, trim and block sand the end of the plank true with the opposite side sub-planking at the stem post so that the opposite side plank will overlap the fist plank. Glue the second side’s plank the same as the first plank, then trim and block sand true with the outside surface of the first plank. The first and second plank runs can be completed by butt joining any of the already cut mahogany planking that will complete the runs to the transom.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:44 PM
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58. Now we must start the staggering of the butt joints of the side planking. Measure forward from the butt joint on planks one and two and place a pencil mark 6” in front of it. This will be where the next butt joint will be. Take a mahogany plank and on the same side as the last glued plank, start the plank run forward to the stem post, taping in position and marking were the stem post is on the plank. Cut the plank full of the mark and glue the plank in place starting from the butt joint mark. Once glued trim and block sand the end of the plank true with the sub planking on the opposite side of the hull. The fourth side planking will be glued, starting at the butt joint pencil mark and work forward to the stem post, where it overlap the third plank from the opposite side. The glued plank will be trimmed and block sanded true with the opposite side plank surface. The third and fourth plank runs can be completed by butt joining any of the already cut mahogany planking that will complete the runs to the transom.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:47 PM
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59. The staggered butt joint will be 6” in front of the last butt joint, where a pencil mark will be drawn on both the third and fourth planks. The fifth plank will be installed on the same side as the last glued side plank, starting from the butt joint pencil mark and working forward to the stem post. Again the plank end at the stem post must be trimmed and block sanded true with the sub-planking of the opposite side of the hull. The sixth plank must be run from the butt joint pencil mark forward and overlapping the fifth plank at the stem post. The fifth and sixth plank runs can be completed by butt joining any of the already cut mahogany planking or new planking that will complete the runs to the transom. NOTE: you will see that the planking at the stem post will be interlocking with every row of planking.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:48 PM
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60. There are two more rows of planking to be installed in the same manner as you have completed. The seventh and eight side planks butt joint pencil marks will be 6” in BACK OF the last butt joint. They will be fitted and glued in place the same as the planks that proceeded.
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Last edited by frankg; Mar 31, 2012 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:48 PM
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61. The last row of side planking to be completed will have their butt joint 6” in front of the last row butt joint. Once glued in place the plank can be trimmed and block sanded with the opposite side planks surface.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:51 PM
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62. This completes the side planking until the sub-deck is installed and sanded true. You can carefully bock sand the completed bottom planking and side planking with 120 grit sand paper to even out the planking before cutting the hull lose from the building board. Finish sanding will take place after all the hull and deck planking is completed.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:56 PM
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63. The hull can now be cut free of the building board by cutting the legs on the frames and the hull righted.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:00 PM
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64. All the frame feet must be cut flush with the shears using a razor saw. Using a block sander true up the frames with the shears.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:03 PM
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65. The interior bottom blocking can be glued in place with 12 minute epoxy, from the laser cut lite ply wood parts #BB1 (4 pcs.) and #BB2 (2 pcs.). The #BB1 blocking will be placed on both sides of the keel doublers between frame #F7 and #F8 as well as between #F8 and #F9. The #BB2 blocking will be glued in on both sides of the keel doublers between frame #F9 and #F10.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:06 PM
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66. The 3/8” hard balsa keel doubler blocking part #KDB, is glued in with the 12 minute epoxy glue alongside the keel doublers from frame #F10 to the Transom.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 11:52 PM
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67. In the engine compartment, between frames #F5 and #F7, the laser cut sections of the keel and keel doublers must cut free for the clearance of the motor mount board.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 11:58 PM
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68. The bottom of frame #F6, the laser cut section of the frame must also be cut free for the motor mount board.
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 12:04 AM
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69. Once the blocking is in place and engine space cut out, dust and vacuum out the interior of the hull. You must now coat the entire interior of the hull with a penetrating epoxy mix. Using a two part epoxy (Z-POXY), we mixed enough epoxy to coat the entire interior of the hull. Once mixed, we thinned out the epoxy with a few caps full of XYLENE thinner to make the mix almost water consistency. Using a throw away brush, we proceeded to coat the entire interior of the hull, from the stem post to the transom.
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Last edited by frankg; Nov 12, 2013 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 07:31 AM
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70. If the model is to be remote controlled or have the optional light package installed in the boat, we must run the hidden wiring in the hull at this time. The light wiring from the light package #715L, must be strung thru the laser cut holes in the frames, underneath the right side shear, from frame #F10.
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 07:32 AM
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71. The wire will continue thru the frames thru the engine area between frames #F7 to #F5.
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