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Old Mar 27, 2012, 03:55 AM
Woodfumbler......
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You did it again !!! another kit i just got to get looking good.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 12:59 PM
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44. Continue gluing the plank down, 6 at a time working your way forward toward the stem post.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:02 PM
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45. The second plank must have its butting edge backed off slightly with a sanding block to produce a tight seam joint between the two planks. Butt the second plank against the first with the back edge on the pencil mark on the keel. Again tape the lank in position so that you can mark out for the stuffing box slot and the run off of the plank at the stem. The second plank will run off at the stem, overlapping the end of the first plank exactly. Once marked out, again cutout for the stuffing box slot as well as the stem post turn leaving it full of the mark for block sanding to first planks surface. Glue the second plank down in position using the same procedure as the first plank, gluing 6 at a time.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:05 PM
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You make it look easy....
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:09 PM
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46. Using a new mahogany plank cut and fit the filler planks butting the end of the first and second planks and running off the transom by 1/2". Glue in place with the medium CA glue.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:10 PM
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47. All planking from here on in, whether it is bottom, side, or deck planking, will start with the backing off of the edge of the butting plank for a good fit against the already glued down planking. Since all the planking used is shorter the hull length, the butt joints of the planks will have to be staggered, as on the real boat. Measure forward from the back of the first and second planks and place a pencil mark at the 3 mark. This will be were the butt end of the third and fourth planks will start their runs forward. With a new mahogany plank taped in place with it back edge on the penciled 3 mark, work forward taping in place every 6 to the turn of the stem post. As before mark the turn of the stem post with a pencil on the back of the plank. Remove the plank and cut full of the pencil mark with a Xacto knife. Once cut glue in position with the medium CA glue and then block sand the plank true with the opposite side sub planking.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:14 PM
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48. The fourth plank is positioned, marked, cut, and glued in position the same as the previous plank. Once the plank is glued down, go back and using a new mahogany plank, complete the third and fourth plank runs to the transom run off.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:15 PM
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49. Measure and place a pencil mark on 3 forward of the ends of planks three and four. This will be where the butt ends of the fifth and sixth planks will start their run toward the stem post. They will have their butting edge block sanded, fit, and glued in position as before. Again take a new plank and complete the fifth and sixth plank runs to the transom.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:15 PM
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50. The seventh and eighth plank runs will be started at the stem post and run aft. Remember to trim and fit the planks at the stem post with the overlapping joint. With the two planks glued in place, you can now start using the cut off planking to finish the plank runs to the transom
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:17 PM
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51. Measure 3 forward of the butt joint on planks seven and eight and place pencil marks where the butt ends of the ninth and tenth planks will start their run to the bow. Because of the shape of the bottom these two planks will run off and over the chine at the bow and not butt against the previous installed planks. Once the planks are trimmed off 1/2 over the chine line mark, glue the planks in place starting at the penciled butt joint marks. Two filler (stealer) planks must be trimmed to fit in the open gap between planks seven and eight, and nine and ten. Once fit glue in place with CA glue with the planks trimmed off 1/2 over the chine line.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:19 PM
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52. The rest of the bottom planking can be completed with complete planks runs with no butt joints. The plank runs will start from chine and run to transom. Remember to trim the plank full of the chine and over run the transom. With all the bottom planks glued in place, you can now trim and block sand true the plank ends at the transom and even with the sides of the sub planking at the chines forward to where planks eleven and twelve run off at the chine.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:28 PM
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53. We now must re draw our chine cut lines on the mahogany planking on the over run on the chines at the bow. Take a mahogany plank and aline the top edge of the plank even with the bottom mahogany planking surface starting at frame #F8. Tape in place with masking tape and at 6 intervals as you work forward toward the bow. At the point where bottom planks eleven and twelve meet the chine, your side marking plank will run over the rest of the bottom planking to the point of the stem post. Site down the edge of the marking plank for a smooth natural curve following the chine to the point of the stem post. Tape in place with masking tape and mark the top edge of the marking plank with a pencil or ball point pen
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:32 PM
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54. Mark the opposite side of the hull for the chine line in the same manner as the first side, making sure that the chines meet at the same point on the stem post. Remove the marking plank and tapes leaving your chine cut marks.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:34 PM
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55. Now a smooth right angle cut must be made on the chine line marks. You can use a sharp Xacto knife and repeatedly score the mahogany planking until you cut thru or use as we did, a Dremel moto-tool with a saw blade and carefully cut on the chine line at right angle to the side planking.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 06:42 PM
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56. Once cut on both sides of the hull, test fit the first of the side mahogany planking from the stem post back. You will notice that the side planking will transition from butting the bottom planking at the stem post to over lapping the bottom planking at planks eleven and twelve.
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