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Old Dec 31, 2012, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RCMad39 View Post
Hi Ray this site has screw packs for all Gt models and they accept paypal as well http://www.detelex.com/rc-helicopter...-and-parts.htm cheers and have a happy new year
RCMad39,
Thanks for the Qs helicopter parts link. Great website with photos for comparing old version 8005 / 8006 parts to the new version 8005 / 8006 parts. I did notice though that I couldn’t find a screw kit for the Qs8006 helicopter when looking in the Qs8006 parts section.
I did see the Qs8005 screw kit, but the Qs8005 frame plate screws are smaller than what the Qs8006 uses, so unfortunately they won‘t work on the Qs8006. Hopefully screw kits will be available on eBay sometime soon.

Ray
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Thanks for the info Ray
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 06:17 PM
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Other than those physical differences, is there a difference in flying abilities between the old and new versions?
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 07:40 PM
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Australia, NSW, Armidale
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
RCMad39,
Thanks for the Qs helicopter parts link. Great website with photos for comparing old version 8005 / 8006 parts to the new version 8005 / 8006 parts. I did notice though that I couldn’t find a screw kit for the Qs8006 helicopter when looking in the Qs8006 parts section.
I did see the Qs8005 screw kit, but the Qs8005 frame plate screws are smaller than what the Qs8006 uses, so unfortunately they won‘t work on the Qs8006. Hopefully screw kits will be available on eBay sometime soon.

Ray
sorry Ray got the wrong link but this one deffinetly has them http://www.feala.com/QS8006-GT-model...pare-Parts.htm i doubled checked
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 07:48 PM
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Hi Helicrapter

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Originally Posted by helicrapter View Post
Hey guys. Ive had some emails from youtube users since I posted my flight video. They had questions about where I got my canopy (which i painted obviously) and how to mod the tail...

Its all silly stuff we already all know here.. but for anyone new such as onytay it might be slightly helpful. I have included a link in the video where you can find the tiger moth blades for about a dollar within the US.

Just describes the paint, tail mod, and weighting the nose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdmYr4Y_0_0

Thank you posting this fantastic youtube video on modification to the tail rotor and adding weight to the front to move the animal forward especially in light winds. Aged 61, I am a novice to this enjoyable hobby which keeps my grey matter healthy and the motor skills ticking! Advice provided by fellow enthusiasts would save me from ignorantly carrying out modifications and thus burning up main boards!

Please provide the web link to source the 9x7 Tiger Moth propeller as promised in your video. Thank you.

I am eagerly awaiting delivery of my QS8006-2 after practicing and enjoying cheaper miniatures mainly indoors.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Raycamaro View Post
Other than those physical differences, is there a difference in flying abilities between the old and new versions?
Hi Raycamaro,
I have the Qs8006-2 helicopter, but not the new frame changed version 8006. So I can‘t really comment on the differences in flying ability between the two. I can say though that the Qs8006-2 is a pretty easy to fly and a nice stable flying helicopter.

Ray
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by raj1 View Post
Thank you posting this fantastic youtube video on modification to the tail rotor and adding weight to the front to move the animal forward especially in light winds. Aged 61, I am a novice to this enjoyable hobby which keeps my grey matter healthy and the motor skills ticking! Advice provided by fellow enthusiasts would save me from ignorantly carrying out modifications and thus burning up main boards!

Please provide the web link to source the 9x7 Tiger Moth propeller as promised in your video. Thank you.

I am eagerly awaiting delivery of my QS8006-2 after practicing and enjoying cheaper miniatures mainly indoors.
Hi raj1,
Since the Qs8006-2 helicopter is a little different than the new frame version 8006, you won’t have to add any extra weight to the front end of the helicopter. All you need to do to adjust balance of the 8006-2 is to cut the little plastic lip from the front edge of the battery holder, then just add a long piece of Velcro to the bottom of battery and a long piece of Velcro on top of battery holder and you can easily adjust the stock battery as much as 1” further forward if its needed.
On my 8006, I keep the battery about ½” further forward than the original stock position when using the larger tail blade.

By the way, I would recommend first flying your new 8006 a few times using only the stock tail blade and in very calm air. By doing it that way will make it much easier to learn how the helicopter reacts to joystick control input.

Ray
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 11:19 PM
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Pilot Ray

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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi raj1,
Since the Qs8006-2 helicopter is a little different than the new frame version 8006, you won’t have to add any extra weight to the front end of the helicopter. All you need to do to adjust balance of the 8006-2 is to cut the little plastic lip from the front edge of the battery holder, then just add a long piece of Velcro to the bottom of battery and a long piece of Velcro on top of battery holder and you can easily adjust the stock battery as much as 1” further forward if its needed.
On my 8006, I keep the battery about ½” further forward than the original stock position when using the larger tail blade.

By the way, I would recommend first flying your new 8006 a few times using only the stock tail blade and in very calm air. By doing it that way will make it much easier to learn how the helicopter reacts to joystick control input.

Ray
Thank you for the advice mate.

Raj
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raj1 View Post
Thank you posting this fantastic youtube video on modification to the tail rotor and adding weight to the front to move the animal forward especially in light winds. Aged 61, I am a novice to this enjoyable hobby which keeps my grey matter healthy and the motor skills ticking! Advice provided by fellow enthusiasts would save me from ignorantly carrying out modifications and thus burning up main boards!

Please provide the web link to source the 9x7 Tiger Moth propeller as promised in your video. Thank you.

I am eagerly awaiting delivery of my QS8006-2 after practicing and enjoying cheaper miniatures mainly indoors.
No problem, I am glad to help. I did link the website in the video it pops up in a little bubble. But here is the direct link http://www.3dxhobbies.com/gws-black/. Make sure you get the 9x7 and cut it as directed in my video or it will be too much for your little motor to handle, and you will blow the board. I would suggest keeping it in the "high speed" mode when flying, but just go light on the elevator and as it picks up speed you can go full forward. I'd try flying it a few times before you mod so you understand how this thing handles... although when it is stock.. you would be better off indoors in a gym or parking garage where there is no air current. Even a strong air conditioner would push this thing backwards. Ill have to get a new video up on a nice day of flight with the weighted nose. Flies real nice now. good luck and keep us posted
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 10:48 PM
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Oh Well, I got 2 perfect flights in with the new replacement PCB board on my Qs8006, but then like usual on the 3rd flight my 8006 again had a total power cutout and fell from the sky about 15 feet straight down to a super hard hit landing. Luckily this time it only broke the lower screw hole tabs on the body shell.
Can’t really figure out what’s causing this strange problem on my Qs8006 helicopter. I’ve now had 4 different PCB boards (one was found to be defective made) on my 8006 helicopter and still it has the random power cutout issues.

Its strange when this happens because my helicopter’s electrical power just totally turns off until the transmitter throttle is brought all the way back to the off position and then reapplied to get the motors running again.

My conclusion to what’s causing the problem; either my 8006’s transmitter is defective, or the battery has a strange sporadic bad internal connection, or there is some type of strange radio interference in my area causing problem for the 8006 radio system even though none of my other RC airplanes ever encounter this problem when flying.

This problem is pretty frustrating especially when it's occurring with a helicopter. Since I like flying the 8006 helicopter I plan to keep after this problem until its fixed one way or another.

Ray
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:11 PM
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Hi everyone,
I tested the thrust on the tail rotor of my Qs8006 helicopter and have posted the thrust figures below. [Note; The thrust figures listed below would be the same for the Qs8005 helicopter since it uses the exact same size (identical) tail rotor system].

Maximum Tail Thrust developed by the stock size blade --- 1.25 - 1.4 Ounces of thrust
[Tested for forward direction thrust only. Reverse direction thrust should be around same amount].

Maximum Tail Thrust developed when using the larger tail blade that I made (size is 8 3/8” diameter and made with Tiger Moth 9x7 airfoil type blades) --- 2.7 - 2.8 Ounces of thrust
[Note; Only forward direction thrust was tested with the larger tail blade. Reverse direction thrust would be much lower than forward direction thrust and probably be close (or just below) the stock size blade readings].

Note; all tests were done with the whole tail rotor system removed from the helicopter so as to get as accurate of measurement as possible.

The thrust figures above show that the N50 motor and stock tail blade is producing pretty meek thrust output on these large helicopters.
Before I did the tail rotor testing I was expecting thrust measurements to be more closer to 5 ounces of thrust, but its not even close.

Ray
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 06:38 AM
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Pilot Ray/Fellow Bloggers

Hi Ray/Fellow Bloggers,

I have got delivery of the GT version of the QS8006 and am thoroughly enjoying it with a few mishaps/teething problems! Please could you help me with the following early issues:

1. The big bird seems to be vibrating a lot especially when taking off;
2. I purchased 4 of the stock batteries and also a decent charger to charge them all in one go if required. However, when I am on to the 3rd or the 4th battery the bird seems to be playing up not wanting to start spinning the blades nor fly! Is it because the electronics inside are already heated up requiring cooling possibly after the 2nd battery? I read somewhere to not continue flying the machine after 3 batteries possibly for this reason. Please do comment.
3. The base of one of the connect buckles at the top blade end below the fly bar/balance bar has snapped off and I wish to replace it with a spare on/under the fan clip which is in my possession. To do this do I have to remove the the central axis from below as my flimsy attempt to dislodge the "cotter" pin from the fly bar failed as I did not know how to go about it. I tried to push it out with a narrow screw driver but was not successful. This attempt was to attack the problem from the top firstly involves removing the flybar rather than pulling out the whole of the central axis. Please advise as to how I do go about it to replace the broken on/under the fan clip the easy way. An attempt with super glue failed proving the significant forces these minor parts endure during flight.

I hope to read ALL 53 pages of this string when time permits as probably some of my issues have already been addressed by other fellow bloggers.

Thanks Fellow Bloggers.

Raj
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 04:49 PM
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Hi Raj,
As the main rotors start to turn, the helicopter can sometimes shake a little until the main blades straighten out on the blade grip pivots. If everything is in good working order on your helicopter’s rotor system, there really shouldn’t be any noticeable shaking or vibrating as the rotors near takeoff rpm.

If your helicopter is still vibrating noticeably when flying, then it could be that one (or two) of the main blades is slightly out of balance and both blade pairs should be checked for equal balance. I have found that occasionally even a new blade can be slightly out of balance straight from the factory. The main blades can be easily rebalanced by making a T bar type balancer and just putting pieces of electrical tape on the underside of the main blade near the root area to fine tune the lesser weight blade.
If the helicopter is shaking rather heavily when flying then it could be a bent rotor shaft or something is loose.

I should note too that even when the 8006 rotor system is in pretty good balance, the lower landing skid area can still sometimes oscillate or vibrate around a bit while flying due to the way even the slightest bit of minor vibration can magnify itself at the lower part of the landing gear.

About flying the helicopter continuously with many batteries;
I think if it was me I would try letting the helicopter cool down a few minutes in between batteries and maybe even a bit longer after a second battery is done. The PCBs do heat up some when flying and will cool down pretty fast once landed for a few minutes.

About the upper blade grip replacement;
I generally like removing the upper blade grip by removing the inner shaft first. The inner shaft can be quickly and easily removed by just reaching thru the side of helicopter frame and using a Phillips head screw driver to loosen both screws (loosen by several turns) on the collar of lower main gear and then just pull the upper rotor shaft system up and out. Note that as the inner shaft is being pulled out of lower main gear that a little ball bearing located on the bottom side of the upper main gear can sometimes fall out, so keep eye on it or you could lose little bearing if falls on the floor and rolls away.

To remove the balance bar pivot pin;
Simply use a small wood finishing nail, paper clip, a pin, or a little drill bit and then just push or lightly tap the 1.5mm pivot pin out of the balance bar while supporting the back side of the upper shaft. The pivot pin usually isn’t pressed in too tight, but sometimes first time removal of the pin will require a little bit more force and support of the upper shaft to remove it. Usually once the pivot pin is removed once or twice, often times after that the pivot pin can be removed by using hand pushing pressure alone.

Ray
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Last edited by Pilot Ray; Jan 21, 2013 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 01:32 AM
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Pilot Ray

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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi Raj,
As the main rotors start to turn, the helicopter can sometimes shake a little until the main blades straighten out on the blade grip pivots. If everything is in good working order on your helicopter’s rotor system, there really shouldn’t be any noticeable shaking or vibrating as the rotors near takeoff rpm.

If your helicopter is still vibrating noticeably when flying, then it could be that one (or two) of the main blades is slightly out of balance and both blade pairs should be checked for equal balance. I have found that occasionally even a new blade can be slightly out of balance straight from the factory. The main blades can be easily rebalanced by making a T bar type balancer and just putting pieces of electrical tape on the underside of the main blade near the root area to fine tune the lesser weight blade.
If the helicopter is shaking rather heavily when flying then it could be a bent rotor shaft or something is loose.

I should note too that even when the 8006 rotor system is in pretty good balance, the lower landing skid area can still sometimes oscillate or vibrate around a bit while flying due to the way even the slightest bit of minor vibration can magnify itself at the lower part of the landing gear.

About flying the helicopter continuously with many batteries;
I think if it was me I would try letting the helicopter cool down a few minutes in between batteries and maybe even a bit longer after a second battery is done. The PCBs do heat up some when flying and will cool down pretty fast once landed for a few minutes.

About the upper blade grip replacement;
I generally like removing the upper blade grip by removing the inner shaft first. The inner shaft can be quickly and easily removed by just reaching thru the side of helicopter frame and using a Phillips head screw driver to loosen both screws (loosen by several turns) on the collar of lower main gear and then just pull the upper rotor shaft system up and out. Note that as the inner shaft is being pulled out of lower main gear that a little ball bearing located on the bottom side of the upper main gear can sometimes fall out, so keep eye on it or you could lose little bearing if falls on the floor and rolls away.

To remove the balance bar pivot pin;
Simply use a small wood finishing nail, paper clip, a pin, or a little drill bit and then just push or lightly tap the 1.5mm pivot pin out of the balance bar while supporting the back side of the upper shaft. The pivot pin usually isn’t pressed in too tight, but sometimes first time removal of the pin will require a little bit more force and support of the upper shaft to remove it. Usually once the pivot pin is removed once or twice, often times after that the pivot pin can be removed by using hand pushing pressure alone.

Ray
Hi Ray,

My sincere thanks for your valuable advice which only comes through experience on similar matters and the willingness to share it with novices like me. Shall keep you posted on the development of replacement of the gripper parts and tweeking the balance of the blades to eliminate the vibration. Much appreciated my friend.

Raj
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:35 AM
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Joined Jan 2013
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New receiver board

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum and this chopper (QS8006), but after doing a few mods have a question. Much like everyone I have expierience the power drops while flying. After reading some posts I have replaced the slider switch with a micro toggle, and had to replace my board after buring it up prior to that. Since doing both I have noticed that this thing now goes into wild spinning turns if I give it a left or right bump on the controller?? Has anyone else expierienced this?

I'm not sure if the new board is giving way more power than the last one, or the new toggle switch is??? Or could I have motor problems? Odd...
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Last edited by jmfixitman; Jan 28, 2013 at 11:39 AM. Reason: model number
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