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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:03 AM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
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Originally Posted by Trainee Ken View Post
Hi Boulier1,
I bought a 9104 PCB which I thought, being 27.145mHZ, I might be able to piggy back off the 8006 TX just to run a servo. No luck with that one although there could be a problem with the 9104 PCB. Hook up the battery and the red PCB indicator light comes on then a second later goes off. Don't know if it's faulty or just can't find the "right" TX signal but without a 9104 heli I can't really test it.
The 9104 PCB has a PWM 3 pin setup for a small servo and an IC similar to the 8006. Like the 8006 IC it has no distinguishing marks but I figured I could at least find which pin provided the pulse and work from there with the 8006 IC. If only it were that easy.
If the 8006 TX/RX is PWM then there has to be a contact on the IC where one can "tap" into the pulse signal to the electronics for the tail rotor power.... doesn't there?
I've uploaded a pic so you can see what I mean regarding the IC.
cheers,
Ken
Apples and oranges Ken my friend. The IC has a micro-pc on board, the transmitted signal is "coded" to the receiver. On a 9053/9104 when you power it on, the receiver board has a red led that lets you know when it has received the correct signal from the x-mitter (connected) or binding. Once connected even if a guy with the same type bird standing right next to you flying at the same time with the same frequency, the other transmitter will not effect yours cause it has a different coding.
Consider, in a 4 bit numeric code (0000-9999) there are 10,000 combinations. Your bird can bind on any one of the 10k combo's....
The 9014 cannot be used, look at the board closely, your pic,lower left corner, thing with wax in it? is the tuning coil used to align the transmitter frequency to the receiver. Lower right hand corner...little thing with a black rubber band on it?
That my friend is a mini gyro... different then those found on 8000 series birds. And btw....go right, to edge of board, go up just a bit to the tan rectangle (SMD capacitor) then look up and left at the pins on the IC. Between the no1 and no 2 pins is a glob of solder that could cause a short. Also beneath the gyro are 2 rectangular spaces, the one on the right, blk with numbers 102, SMD resistor 1k ohm (10 and 2@ 0's), the space on the left is empty....or is it? The rainbow colored stuff stretching between the green pads is also leftover solder that can cause a short.
Now go up to the end of the IC then go left to the white + sign, just to the left of it is the red SMD LED, which runs on 1.7vdc....most LEDS run between 1-3vdc. @1-30 ma.
Back to the IC....you can see there are unused pins, suggesting there may be other channels to play with, top right hand corner....3 pin header with the pins cut off, look at the tracks going back to the IC, yet nothing is connected..hmmmm
Now... if your throttle represents a span of 0vdc (no spin) to 5vdc (wide open) then a switch would operate at 0vdc off, 5vdc on. Smaller birds I have seen have a switch on the x-mitter to turn LEDs off and on....starting to see the picture? Instead of turning LEDs on/off use it for most anything, just remember a switch is 2 state off/on the throttle is variable from 0 to wide open. So you could replace the switch with a pot or variable resistor and instead of on/off you now have a brightness control, or to drive a tail rotor, or leave the switch and it could be trigger for cam, to turn on video or snap a shot . there are endless options depending how devious you are....lol
more later....keep the questions coming....take care
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:05 AM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi everyone,
I have come across something that should be checked on new 8006 PCB boards before installing them on the helicopter. Luckily the problem is very easy to fix and I have posted a photo below of what to check for on the PCB boards.
(Note; since 8005 PCB boards are built the same way, the same thing would apply to new Qs8005 PCB boards too).

First I will explain how my helicopter was acting when the PCB wasn‘t working right. I want to mention too that before trying to fly my 8006 with the new PCB board, I did ground test my 8006 thoroughly using the transmitter controls and everything looked and sounded right and I figured the helicopter was good to go.

Well a few days ago I finally got to test fly my Qs8006 with the new updated PCB / receiver board (it’s the updated PCB board that I posted some photos on awhile back).
So on the 1st takeoff attempt I flew the helicopter up to about 6 feet high and immediately I noticed my 8006 started to slowly rotate to the left. I quickly responded by pushing the joystick to the right turn and the helicopter still just kept rotating around in a slow counterclockwise hovering spin. I then quickly tried readjusting the trim to the right and still the helicopter just kept spinning counterclockwise and would not turn to the right, so I quickly landed the helicopter. I initially thought that maybe the trim was way off, so I tried re-adjusting the trim some more with the helicopter just idling on the ground and then decided to try another takeoff. Well immediately upon the next takeoff the helicopter did the same thing again and still there seemed to be no steering even though I could hear the main blades increase their speed like the helicopter was trying to turn. I then landed the helicopter again and tried readjusting the trim to the max to see if that would help. I then tried another takeoff and the helicopter still did its slow spinning and also this time it started to drift towards the house. To avoid getting too close to the house I was forced to shut the throttle off while the helicopter was up about 7 feet high and the helicopter did a straight down free fall with a very hard ground landing, but luckily the super hard landing didn’t cause any damage to the helicopter. Well after 2 more attempts and finally realizing that the helicopter wouldn't turn in any direction and getting the helicopter higher up than I wanted due to the lack of steering distraction and the helicopter just barely miss hitting a tree, I frustratingly landed the helicopter and called it quits for that day.

The next day I started to do some troubleshooting of trying to fix the problem. I decide to make a homemade turntable (I remembered Ken talking about using a turntable) and I figured using a turntable would make it easier and safer to test my helicopter for turning power. Once the turntable was made I then put my helicopter on the turntable and balanced everything out good since the body shell was off the helicopter. Upon throttling up to just idle speed and trying to make the helicopter turn while it was on the turntable, the helicopter acted the same way like when flying outside and it just slowly rotated to the left in slow motion counterclockwise spins with no response to the left or right turning controls. So next I tried a troubleshoot test by unplugging the power to one of the main motors so as to get a better idea on what was happening whenever I tried to make the helicopter turn. Well after finishing the test on that main motor and then repeating the same test with the other main motor, I discovered that both motors would speed up for making a turn like they should, but the only problem was that they were both doing the same thing at the same time no matter if I applied the joystick for a left turn or right turn. (When the main motors are working properly for making the Qs helicopters turn, there will always be a main motor that will slow down some to help with the turning and to help keep the helicopter from rising when the other motor speeds up to do the turning).

Well after seeing what was happening, the 1st thought that came to my mind was that maybe I had soldered the motor connector wires on wrong to the PCB board, but after closely rechecking the PCB board with a magnifying glass and comparing the circuit board to my old PCB board, I was able to decipher out that the motor wires were definitely soldered on right.
So now I started to get those dreaded thoughts of I might have to re-buy a new PCB board when I had just recently bought this new PCB board. Then after thinking about the problem for a day or so a thought occurred to me that the PCB board did appear like it was trying to work right, but then it was also acting like maybe something was crossed wired on the board. I then decided to rechecked the PCB board with the magnifying glass and started to back track more from the soldered on motor wire connections and followed the circuitry path on the board. Then after sometime and just by luck I happen to notice the two motor control units on top of the board and that they looked like they might be touching a little with their top metal parts. So since the motor control units were factory soldered on that way (and also I noticed those parts on my original PCB board weren’t touching like that), I decided to try to just bend the one control unit slightly forward just enough so as to provide clearance between the two motor control units.

After remounting the PCB back onto my 8006, I then put my helicopter back on the turntable and retested my helicopter’s turning power. Well wouldn’t you know it, the turning problem is fixed and the helicopter could easily and strongly turn again. Also, while I was at it I readjusted the helicopter’s trim and was able to get the helicopter trimmed very well on the turntable for the next flight.

Here’s a quickie flying update on how well my Qs8006 helicopter is flying so far.
The next day I flew my helicopter with the new PCB board and after doing two complete flights that day, I found that my Qs8006 is flying better than ever, and so far no power cutouts.

I have posted a photo below showing were the (2) metal parts were touching on the PCB board causing the problem of the helicopter not turning. In the photo I used a pencil to point to the location on the PCB board of were the (2) electronic metal parts were found to be touching and causing a crossed connection. Also since the controllers were factory soldered onto the 8006 PCB board that way, (and I found that the controllers wouldn’t pried apart sideways without possibly damaging them due to being soldered in solidly), so the easiest solution I found was to just lightly finger push bend the one motor controller forward (make it lean forward) just enough so as to clear the controller on the left. (Note; The photo doesn‘t show the controller bent forward yet since I did that after the photo was taken).

Ray
What actually drives the big motors are called MOSFETS (metal oxide silicone field effect transistors) Great article here on them...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET

Each motor is driven by one of them, they can come with or without an isolated tab, yours are without, by the tabs touching it was shorting them together and it was trying to run both rotors in the same direction which is why you could not trim it out. As we know the rotors run in opposite directions, as long as the rpm's match it will run straight, but let 1 rotor's rpm change and it will cause it to turn. Thankfully, the MOSFETS are diode protected on the input as well as the output. I would think in the sometimes violent situations these birds find themselves in that the engineers would have used isolated tabs to prevent this from happening. I will look up no's for upgraded isolated MOSFETS..... Then we get Ken to buy and try them and Bob's yer Uncle.....lol
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:21 AM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
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Originally Posted by helicrapter View Post
Hey guys. Ive been looking into something that looks good and flys like a blimp for my wife to learn to fly.. I started looking into the 8006 and decided to order it. I just got it today and decided I might just keep it for myself (although I am used to much more advanced flyers). After reading a few posts.. it seems I have the updated version with the battery box located centered under the main blades. From what I can tell (and have seen).. the 8006 is more of a "hover craft," than a real flyer. How does the battery resting center mass compare to the earlier version where it is nested closer to the front? I would imagine the previous version would have a faster forward speed and fly better into the wind. I was thinking about doing the "old clay in the nose," to compensate for the center battery in this version.

Also when resting on a flat service (heli turned off), the rear vert stabilizer (under the tail prop) sits on the ground. The front of the landing gear is slightly off the ground and it rests on the tail boom stabilizer. Is this normal.. because with a little bit of weight on the nose it balances on the gear and not on the tail. I attached a pic to show how it rests on the tail normally. It will not balance on a table or a ledge of the tail hangs off. It will tip back and fall unless the tail is touching something solid.

I dont consider myself an expert pilot, but I am pretty diverse in the heli scene. Although I made a rookie mistake when unboxing this beast... I was anxious and opened it in poor lighting... which lead to me cutting the antenna off thinking it was a wire-tie wrap that was securing it into the box.

I re soldered the wire in 2 places (i know, I know.. I really hacked it).. and used my secret trick for light gauge wire insulation.. better known as hot glue. I'll probably go to lowes tomorrow and get a new length of wire and a heat-wrap to do it right.


Anyway.. I'd love some info to my questions.. and thanks in advance


The antenna lead is cut to a specific length to match the system frequency, alter any aspect of the ant wire you also alter the receiver capabilities. Try to match wire size and length. I am sure one of these gents, and I use the term loosely,(lol), can provide the parameters for you. Also the farther away from metal you can get it the better. For max distance I ran mine through a hole in the plastic skid then back under the boom and attached it to the bottom of the plastic vertical stablizer under the tail rotor with a mini tyrap. This seems to maximize the operational distance a bit more. TC.....
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally posted by boulier1
What actually drives the big motors are called MOSFETS (metal oxide silicone field effect transistors) Great article here on them...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET

Each motor is driven by one of them, they can come with or without an isolated tab, yours are without, by the tabs touching it was shorting them together and it was trying to run both rotors in the same direction which is why you could not trim it out. As we know the rotors run in opposite directions, as long as the rpm's match it will run straight, but let 1 rotor's rpm change and it will cause it to turn. Thankfully, the MOSFETS are diode protected on the input as well as the output. I would think in the sometimes violent situations these birds find themselves in that the engineers would have used isolated tabs to prevent this from happening. I will look up no's for upgraded isolated MOSFETS..... Then we get Ken to buy and try them and Bob's yer Uncle.....lol
Hi boulier 1,
Thanks for the excellent MOSFETS link and for applying the correct names to the PCB parts that I was referring to. That really helps give everyone a better understanding of what was happening on the board.

Ray
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Joined Feb 2011
276 Posts
Hi everyone,
I noticed that there is a new improved version G.T Model Qs8005 helicopter on the market now.
From what I can see the new version Qs8005 has some nice improvements over the original versions.

One good thing that I noticed about the new version Qs8005 helicopter is that it still comes equipped with a transmitter on / off switch so that the LED lights can still be turned on and off while flying (I really wished the Qs8006 had that feature).

Another thing that I noticed is that the new version Qs8005 helicopter now uses an upper and lower two part side plate frame. It looks like the lower side frame can now be removed separately of which will make it much easier and save lots of time if a upper gear / outer rotor shaft ever needs replaced. (I also wished the Qs8006 used something similar or better yet, a re-moveable lower center section sub frame to make upper gear / outer shaft replacement easier)

It also appears that the new version Qs8005 is now using the stronger thicker main gears. That definitely is a much needed improvement and should really help cut down on gear tooth stripping and should eliminate gear tooth slippage during full power takeoffs.

I also noticed too that the new version Qs8005 still uses the strong plastic coated balance bar, but also now has a balance bar with LED lights.

Another minor change (or add on) is that there is some LED lights added onto to the lower side frame.

This is some of the new improvements that I noticed so far and it really looks like the Qs8005 helicopter has gotten some much needed and nice improvements.

Here’s a link to one and the price is very reasonable with free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-Inch-2-Sp...item3a7a69b06f

Ray
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:54 PM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi everyone,
I noticed that there is a new improved version G.T Model Qs8005 helicopter on the market now.
From what I can see the new version Qs8005 has some nice improvements over the original versions.

One good thing that I noticed about the new version Qs8005 helicopter is that it still comes equipped with a transmitter on / off switch so that the LED lights can still be turned on and off while flying (I really wished the Qs8006 had that feature).

Another thing that I noticed is that the new version Qs8005 helicopter now uses an upper and lower two part side plate frame. It looks like the lower side frame can now be removed separately of which will make it much easier and save lots of time if a upper gear / outer rotor shaft ever needs replaced. (I also wished the Qs8006 used something similar or better yet, a re-moveable lower center section sub frame to make upper gear / outer shaft replacement easier)

It also appears that the new version Qs8005 is now using the stronger thicker main gears. That definitely is a much needed improvement and should really help cut down on gear tooth stripping and should eliminate gear tooth slippage during full power takeoffs.

I also noticed too that the new version Qs8005 still uses the strong plastic coated balance bar, but also now has a balance bar with LED lights.

Another minor change (or add on) is that there is some LED lights added onto to the lower side frame.

This is some of the new improvements that I noticed so far and it really looks like the Qs8005 helicopter has gotten some much needed and nice improvements.

Here’s a link to one and the price is very reasonable with free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-Inch-2-Sp...item3a7a69b06f

Ray
If you don't care for the led's I can help in modifying the on/off .5 channel....FYI
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:22 PM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Updated pix

Here are some updated pix. Major changes are... painted canopy, tail boom, rear stabilizer, rockets, sanded the shine off the cockpit window and squared off the the top of it with the body paint. Nothing special, just trying to make it different. Still waiting on a few more decals to come in the mail.





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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi helicrapter,
I was just looking at the newest updated version of 8006 (like the one you have) on eBay and I just noticed that the new version 8006’s do seem to lean back onto the tail support when resting on the ground. It kind of looks like to me that the landing skids is mounted further forward on the newer versions of which would cause the helicopter to sit tipped back a bit when resting on the ground. I would think though that with the helicopter sitting tipped back like that for takeoffs, the helicopter would probably tend to drift back some on takeoff’s until it levels out.

So after seeing more photos of the new version 8006s, I now think that the balance on your helicopter isn’t really off like I was originally thinking in my other post. I guess I’m just kind of use to seeing my original 8006 sitting level on its landing skids, but then of course even sitting like that isn‘t a very good indicator as to how well balanced the helicopter is. The rotor shaft balance point is the important thing.

Ray

Hey ray, thanks for the update.

I actually fixed the balance of it by removing the little foam donuts on the rear landing gear and moving them all the way to the rear plastic tips. I secured them with hot glue and it seems to keep it from tipping back, even without the battery in place. It seemed to balance in the air fine before this fix.. but it's easier to take off and land when she's sitting level.

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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by helicrapter View Post
I took it apart today and painted the entire tail boom and canopy a military style OD green satin. I also took those ugly little version two white plastic missiles off and painted the white part a light 'primer grey," and painted the red tips yellow to give it a more realistic look. I just need to get some nice decals to give it a finishing touch. I also made and painted some custom rod/ping pong ball trainers for it (poplar dowels paint black with yellow painted balls). I noticed this thing has a tendency to roll over if you take off too slowly on uneven ground.. and the lightest breeze will make it tip on landings if you are not flying into the wind.. (which is impossible since it is more of hot air balloon and just goes where the wind takes it.) So i figured adding these will keep the nice new paint looking good.. and help my wife with take offs and landings. I hope this will lift the trainers I made.. I used a much thicker dowel than I usually would due to the size of the damn thing.

It's very hard to see the actual color due to the terrible lighting and my ancient 2 mega pixel camera phone.. but the shot of the tail boom is probably most accurate. I made the "cock pit windshield" section of the canopy straight across but painting over the "U" shape part. I thought it would give it a more aggressive fighter plane style look. I am also posting the paint I used in case anyone is interested. Just took a little bit of sanding and rattle can primer/paint Still needs a little touch up to get it perfect and get the tape residue off, but it's coming along

Ill get some more pictures once she is all back together after a few days when the paint is nice and hard and the decals are on... gunna be a shame when this thing cuts out and smashes that paint to bits.









What voltage is the front NOSE LED? 12 volt im guessing? I broke the contacts off when i was removing it for paint, and I need to solder a new one onto the old wire harness.


Has anyone tried to add a few touches of vacuum grease to the tail COG and the two main plastic COGS? I would think it would quiet this thing down a bit and help with tooth wear.

Do you know what the discharge rate of the stock battery is? Im guessing about 35-40c with something this big. I want to replace it with a 2000-2500 mAh. Stock battery charger says its a balance charger for lipo/Li-Ion.. Anyone used it to charge an after market battery safely?]
Sorry friend but you have the newer version of the QS8006. Which means you can't fit a higher mAH battery, cos yours is under the main shaft, as it'll be to big to fit there (and plastic frames too eh??). You see I have the older version (Metal frames)so My battery is up front, and I have a 3600mAH 50c fitted for longer flight times, and since it's still a 14.8v lipo. The Stock battery charger does charge it up (1 amp max). Just takes longer. That's all..

Mike..

Mike..
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi everyone,
I have come across something that should be checked on new 8006 PCB boards before installing them on the helicopter. Luckily the problem is very easy to fix and I have posted a photo below of what to check for on the PCB boards.
(Note; since 8005 PCB boards are built the same way, the same thing would apply to new Qs8005 PCB boards too).

First I will explain how my helicopter was acting when the PCB wasn‘t working right. I want to mention too that before trying to fly my 8006 with the new PCB board, I did ground test my 8006 thoroughly using the transmitter controls and everything looked and sounded right and I figured the helicopter was good to go.

Well a few days ago I finally got to test fly my Qs8006 with the new updated PCB / receiver board (it’s the updated PCB board that I posted some photos on awhile back).
So on the 1st takeoff attempt I flew the helicopter up to about 6 feet high and immediately I noticed my 8006 started to slowly rotate to the left. I quickly responded by pushing the joystick to the right turn and the helicopter still just kept rotating around in a slow counterclockwise hovering spin. I then quickly tried readjusting the trim to the right and still the helicopter just kept spinning counterclockwise and would not turn to the right, so I quickly landed the helicopter. I initially thought that maybe the trim was way off, so I tried re-adjusting the trim some more with the helicopter just idling on the ground and then decided to try another takeoff. Well immediately upon the next takeoff the helicopter did the same thing again and still there seemed to be no steering even though I could hear the main blades increase their speed like the helicopter was trying to turn. I then landed the helicopter again and tried readjusting the trim to the max to see if that would help. I then tried another takeoff and the helicopter still did its slow spinning and also this time it started to drift towards the house. To avoid getting too close to the house I was forced to shut the throttle off while the helicopter was up about 7 feet high and the helicopter did a straight down free fall with a very hard ground landing, but luckily the super hard landing didn’t cause any damage to the helicopter. Well after 2 more attempts and finally realizing that the helicopter wouldn't turn in any direction and getting the helicopter higher up than I wanted due to the lack of steering distraction and the helicopter just barely miss hitting a tree, I frustratingly landed the helicopter and called it quits for that day.

The next day I started to do some troubleshooting of trying to fix the problem. I decide to make a homemade turntable (I remembered Ken talking about using a turntable) and I figured using a turntable would make it easier and safer to test my helicopter for turning power. Once the turntable was made I then put my helicopter on the turntable and balanced everything out good since the body shell was off the helicopter. Upon throttling up to just idle speed and trying to make the helicopter turn while it was on the turntable, the helicopter acted the same way like when flying outside and it just slowly rotated to the left in slow motion counterclockwise spins with no response to the left or right turning controls. So next I tried a troubleshoot test by unplugging the power to one of the main motors so as to get a better idea on what was happening whenever I tried to make the helicopter turn. Well after finishing the test on that main motor and then repeating the same test with the other main motor, I discovered that both motors would speed up for making a turn like they should, but the only problem was that they were both doing the same thing at the same time no matter if I applied the joystick for a left turn or right turn. (When the main motors are working properly for making the Qs helicopters turn, there will always be a main motor that will slow down some to help with the turning and to help keep the helicopter from rising when the other motor speeds up to do the turning).

Well after seeing what was happening, the 1st thought that came to my mind was that maybe I had soldered the motor connector wires on wrong to the PCB board, but after closely rechecking the PCB board with a magnifying glass and comparing the circuit board to my old PCB board, I was able to decipher out that the motor wires were definitely soldered on right.
So now I started to get those dreaded thoughts of I might have to re-buy a new PCB board when I had just recently bought this new PCB board. Then after thinking about the problem for a day or so a thought occurred to me that the PCB board did appear like it was trying to work right, but then it was also acting like maybe something was crossed wired on the board. I then decided to rechecked the PCB board with the magnifying glass and started to back track more from the soldered on motor wire connections and followed the circuitry path on the board. Then after sometime and just by luck I happen to notice the two motor control units on top of the board and that they looked like they might be touching a little with their top metal parts. So since the motor control units were factory soldered on that way (and also I noticed those parts on my original PCB board weren’t touching like that), I decided to try to just bend the one control unit slightly forward just enough so as to provide clearance between the two motor control units.

After remounting the PCB back onto my 8006, I then put my helicopter back on the turntable and retested my helicopter’s turning power. Well wouldn’t you know it, the turning problem is fixed and the helicopter could easily and strongly turn again. Also, while I was at it I readjusted the helicopter’s trim and was able to get the helicopter trimmed very well on the turntable for the next flight.

Here’s a quickie flying update on how well my Qs8006 helicopter is flying so far.
The next day I flew my helicopter with the new PCB board and after doing two complete flights that day, I found that my Qs8006 is flying better than ever, and so far no power cutouts.

I have posted a photo below showing were the (2) metal parts were touching on the PCB board causing the problem of the helicopter not turning. In the photo I used a pencil to point to the location on the PCB board of were the (2) electronic metal parts were found to be touching and causing a crossed connection. Also since the controllers were factory soldered onto the 8006 PCB board that way, (and I found that the controllers wouldn’t pried apart sideways without possibly damaging them due to being soldered in solidly), so the easiest solution I found was to just lightly finger push bend the one motor controller forward (make it lean forward) just enough so as to clear the controller on the left. (Note; The photo doesn‘t show the controller bent forward yet since I did that after the photo was taken).

Ray
well I don't think thats the problem Ken, cos I have fitted a heatsink to those 2 MOSFET'S and they are touching each other (cos of the heatsink that I made) and my heli still turns hard left/ right, and using the 3600mAH battery. My heli has a lot more lifting power, and forward flight using the 2 tail motors. the one at the rear spins counter clockwise, and the middle one spins clockwise... Now I have made a great learning heli before I try and fly my nitro one, so it's Grreeeattt..

Mike..
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:44 PM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
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Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
well I don't think thats the problem Ken, cos I have fitted a heatsink to those 2 MOSFET'S and they are touching each other (cos of the heatsink that I made) and my heli still turns hard left/ right, and using the 3600mAH battery. My heli has a lot more lifting power, and forward flight using the 2 tail motors. the one at the rear spins counter clockwise, and the middle one spins clockwise... Now I have made a great learning heli before I try and fly my nitro one, so it's Grreeeattt..

Mike..
As I referred to in an earlier post, the MOSFETS are available with or without isolated tabs. You are lucky in that had yours not been of the isolated flavor , the board would cease to function in a short time...
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by boulier1 View Post
As I referred to in an earlier post, the MOSFETS are available with or without isolated tabs. You are lucky in that had yours not been of the isolated flavor , the board would cease to function in a short time...
I replace them with higher amp ones (IRF540 rated at 33amps each). I did that to all my spare boards, cos of my higher amp battery...

Oh I looked them up and the info says "Case to sink flat greased surface". Does that mean that IRF540 is none isolated....

Mike..
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Last edited by hooleydog; Oct 21, 2012 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 03:36 AM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
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Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
I replace them with higher amp ones (IRF540 rated at 33amps each). I did that to all my spare boards, cos of my higher amp battery...

Oh I looked them up and the info says "Case to sink flat greased surface". Does that mean that IRF540 is none isolated....

Mike..
guess we'll find out won't we...
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Joined Mar 2004
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Originally Posted by boulier1 View Post
guess we'll find out won't we...
I did a bit more digging in-line and greased means the heatsink compound stuff, so if the IRF560's weren't isolated. Then you woudn't use that stuff..

Mike..
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 12:15 PM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
85 Posts
Isolated or not, the silicon heatsink compound is used when attaching a heatsink to a discrete component it provides a thermal barrier and allows for enhanced dissapation of heat.
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