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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:13 AM
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United States, PA, Downingtown
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by helicrapter View Post
I dont consider myself an expert pilot, but I am pretty diverse in the heli scene.
I think you answered your own question. While I don't have the "new" version with the battery underneath, the principle of balance still applies. It seems that the COG should be directly under the blade shafts; since yours is tipping towards the rear, try moving the battery forward a few centimeters. Once you start weighting the nose, you'll be playing with trying to keep it balanced in any one direction.

On the old models one could trim away the front of the battery tray and physically move the battery forwards a little, which always helped with forward flight. And yes, these are more hovercrafts than anything, though when mine does fly, I can maneuver fairly well, albeit slowly. Relatively speaking. For something this big, flying at a brisk walking pace is scary enough!
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by helicrapter View Post
Hey guys. Ive been looking into something that looks good and flys like a blimp for my wife to learn to fly.. I started looking into the 8006 and decided to order it. I just got it today and decided I might just keep it for myself (although I am used to much more advanced flyers). After reading a few posts.. it seems I have the updated version with the battery box located centered under the main blades. From what I can tell (and have seen).. the 8006 is more of a "hover craft," than a real flyer. How does the battery resting center mass compare to the earlier version where it is nested closer to the front? I would imagine the previous version would have a faster forward speed and fly better into the wind. I was thinking about doing the "old clay in the nose," to compensate for the center battery in this version.

Also when resting on a flat service (heli turned off), the rear vert stabilizer (under the tail prop) sits on the ground. The front of the landing gear is slightly off the ground and it rests on the tail boom stabilizer. Is this normal.. because with a little bit of weight on the nose it balances on the gear and not on the tail. I attached a pic to show how it rests on the tail normally. It will not balance on a table or a ledge of the tail hangs off. It will tip back and fall unless the tail is touching something solid.

I dont consider myself an expert pilot, but I am pretty diverse in the heli scene. Although I made a rookie mistake when unboxing this beast... I was anxious and opened it in poor lighting... which lead to me cutting the antenna off thinking it was a wire-tie wrap that was securing it into the box.

I re soldered the wire in 2 places (i know, I know.. I really hacked it).. and used my secret trick for light gauge wire insulation.. better known as hot glue. I'll probably go to lowes tomorrow and get a new length of wire and a heat-wrap to do it right.


Anyway.. I'd love some info to my questions.. and thanks in advance


Hi helicrapter,
I have to wonder why the new version of 8006 helicopter is so far out of balance straight out of the box.

I do know if you try flying the 8006 helicopter that way, it definitely won’t takeoff straight up and will tend to keep back drifting as you try to hover. This will make the helicopter a handful especially when trying to fly it in a tighter flying area with any obstacles nearby since the helicopter will move around more when trying to hover nice and stationary.

Like Rick was saying in the above post with the best recommendation, if you can it is best to move the battery forward rather than to add a lot of nose weight. But if you can't move the battery forward, I would say to try not to add much more than about a golf ball amount of weight to the very front, otherwise adding too much nose weight will begin to cut into already rather short flight times and it will also make the 8006 spin around slower and can make climbing and turning become a bit more sluggish. If you have to add more weight than that, then I would try to moving some parts forward to get a better balance.

When it comes to getting more forward speed, the easiest option so far is to put on a larger tail blade. A larger tail blade can boost speed some, but there are limitation’s since larger tail blades tend to push the limits of the tail’s electrical system and PCB board.

Ray
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi helicrapter,
I have to wonder why the new version of 8006 helicopter is so far out of balance straight out of the box.

Like Rick was saying in the above post with the best recommendation, if you can it is best to move the battery forward rather than to add a lot of nose weight.

When it comes to getting more forward speed, the easiest option so far is to put on a larger tail blade. A larger tail blade can boost speed some, but there are limitation’s since larger tail blades tend to push the limits of the tail’s electrical system and PCB board.

Ray


Well the battery cannot be moved forward because the battery box does not allow it to move forward or back since there are tabs to hold it firmly in place. Does anyone with this version have a suggestion? Maybe I could cut the tab out but then the battery would rest against the board and that scares me. It also doesn't seem to like the "high speed mode" as the nose likes to shoot straight down.. tried rolling on slowly in "high" and got it up to full rpm forward thrust without a nose dive.. unfortunately.. even with full forward in high.. it was moving slightly backwards with the slightest breeze.. and not moving at all when the air was calm. This may not be a good learner for my wife since it was actually very hard to control without proper thrust.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi everyone,

I have posted some photos of the larger tail blade I made for my Qs8005.

When building the larger tail blade, my goal was to mainly give the Qs8005 helicopter more forward power and speed while also trying to retain some backup speed. I figured the best way to do this was to make a one directional airfoil type propeller for stronger forward speed, but at the same time I figured I would make the tail blade larger so it would compensate for the weaker thrust whenever the tail blade spins in reverse for backing up the helicopter. The bigger tail blade that I made doubled the helicopter’s forward moving power and speed while retaining about the same backup speed that it had with the stock blade.
When using this type larger tail blade, one thing to watch is that it does require more careful modulation of the tail rotor power whenever accelerating from a hover. If full power is applied to the tail blade all at once when accelerating from a hover, the larger tail blade’s thrust can actually over lift the tail of the helicopter and put it up on its nose. To get around this, I have to gradually apply the power to the tail rotor whenever the helicopter is accelerating from a hover for about the first 20 feet or so. Once the helicopter has started accelerating some then full tail power can be used for maximum speed. Also, the extra tail rotor thrust is much more sensitive to forward and back joystick control when trying to fly slow to maneuver in a tight spot, so the tail power has to be applied very, very lightly in those situations.

Here is how I built the larger tail blade.
I first take the stock tail blade and cut the blades back so that they are just 1” long when measured from the center of the screw hole to the cut end. I then sand the top flat part of the little blade that’s left for about 3/8” in from the cut end. I then clean the sanded surface with rubbing alcohol. Next, I took a Gaunli Tiger Moth biplane propeller and measured in 3 9/16” from the blade tip end and then cut the outer part of the blade off for using it on my large tail blade. I used this type of directional propeller since the Tiger Moth propellers are thin, strong, has a nice airfoil shape for lower rpm’s and also is light weight. (Note; the Guanli Tiger Moth airplane propeller is the same as GWS 350 Tiger Moth propeller except that the GWS propeller is orange in color). I next sanded about 3/8” in from the cut end on the Tiger Moth blade (the underside part) and then cleaned the sanded surface with rubbing alcohol. Next dry fit the Tiger Moth blade onto the other blade part to make sure it fits and lays as good as possible (can cut and trim the blade sections with sharp scissors if needed) . Next I used a glue called Plastic welder made by VersaChem and put some glue on about 3/8” of the end part of the Tiger Moth blade and also put glue on about 3/8” of the end part of the little stock blade. (Note; the VersaChem glue is sold at NAPA and Autozone is sold in a two part dispenser like epoxy glue. The glue has a set time of 4 minutes, a handling time of 15 minutes, and is fully cured in 24 hours. The glue is pretty strong smelling and is a cream color when dry). Next I quickly overlaid the Tiger Moth blade 3/8” to cover 3/8“ of the top part of the short piece of stock tail blade. The VersaChem glue sets in 3 to 4 minuets, so the two pieces of blades will have to be positioned as quickly as possible and held in position for a few minutes until the glue has set. I found it is easiest to just hold blades together with my fingers until the glue set hard enough to hold everything together. I also cleaned off any excess glue as it was drying with my finger and a paper towel. The main thing to watch for when gluing the parts together is to make sure that the Tiger Moth blades are put on equally to each other, make sure that the Tiger Moth blades are put on as straight across from each other as possible (watch the up and down angles too), and make to sure that the Tiger Moth blades are laying good and flat against the stock tail blade part so that the blades will have good pitch. After the glue has set after a few minutes, repeat on other side’s blade the same way. Once everything is dry, I used a piece of fine sand paper to smooth out any sharp or rough edges of glue and plastic edges. To finish up the blade I used a black Sharpie marker and red Sharpie marker to touch up the blade to make it look good.

I want to mention too that last summer I did try to modify the stock tail blade by just laminating and gluing on some thin plastic onto the tops of the blades. I made them a ½“ long and ¼“ wider, but the results weren’t that much better than the stock blade.

Ray

I found the post and im looking at it. Seems its a basic tiger moth prop. I found some from GWS rated for low RPMS that look similar. Ray do you know what size it was? The one I am looking at is a 9x7 shown here http://www.3dxhobbies.com/gws-black/...lack-electric/


The main link to all the the choices is here http://www.3dxhobbies.com/gws-black/

if not the 9x7 could you help me pick a correct size? Thanks! I want to get this thing going asap
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 12:04 AM
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Quick little spoiler of the paint job in progress

I took it apart today and painted the entire tail boom and canopy a military style OD green satin. I also took those ugly little version two white plastic missiles off and painted the white part a light 'primer grey," and painted the red tips yellow to give it a more realistic look. I just need to get some nice decals to give it a finishing touch. I also made and painted some custom rod/ping pong ball trainers for it (poplar dowels paint black with yellow painted balls). I noticed this thing has a tendency to roll over if you take off too slowly on uneven ground.. and the lightest breeze will make it tip on landings if you are not flying into the wind.. (which is impossible since it is more of hot air balloon and just goes where the wind takes it.) So i figured adding these will keep the nice new paint looking good.. and help my wife with take offs and landings. I hope this will lift the trainers I made.. I used a much thicker dowel than I usually would due to the size of the damn thing.

It's very hard to see the actual color due to the terrible lighting and my ancient 2 mega pixel camera phone.. but the shot of the tail boom is probably most accurate. I made the "cock pit windshield" section of the canopy straight across but painting over the "U" shape part. I thought it would give it a more aggressive fighter plane style look. I am also posting the paint I used in case anyone is interested. Just took a little bit of sanding and rattle can primer/paint Still needs a little touch up to get it perfect and get the tape residue off, but it's coming along

Ill get some more pictures once she is all back together after a few days when the paint is nice and hard and the decals are on... gunna be a shame when this thing cuts out and smashes that paint to bits.









What voltage is the front NOSE LED? 12 volt im guessing? I broke the contacts off when i was removing it for paint, and I need to solder a new one onto the old wire harness.


Has anyone tried to add a few touches of vacuum grease to the tail COG and the two main plastic COGS? I would think it would quiet this thing down a bit and help with tooth wear.

Do you know what the discharge rate of the stock battery is? Im guessing about 35-40c with something this big. I want to replace it with a 2000-2500 mAh. Stock battery charger says its a balance charger for lipo/Li-Ion.. Anyone used it to charge an after market battery safely?]
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by helicrapter View Post
I found the post and im looking at it. Seems its a basic tiger moth prop. I found some from GWS rated for low RPMS that look similar. Ray do you know what size it was? The one I am looking at is a 9x7 shown here http://www.3dxhobbies.com/gws-black/...lack-electric/


The main link to all the the choices is here http://www.3dxhobbies.com/gws-black/

if not the 9x7 could you help me pick a correct size? Thanks! I want to get this thing going asap
Hi helicrapter,
The Tiger moth prop size that I used was identical to a GWS 350 size prop, like the 9 x 7 shown in the photo at that website. I just cut the blades off and glued them on to stubles of the original blade and to the angle of the original 8006 blade angles. I did notice a 8 x 4.3 prop on that website that might work as a direct bolt on with a little center modification, but since its blade angles would be preset I don’t know if it will work better or not.
When I made the larger tail blade for my 8006, I made it to a 8 3/8” diameter size and it works pretty nice in my case. Also, I wouldn’t recommend using a whole 9 x 7 prop size on your 8006 since it will over prop and overload the tiny n50 motor and could cause the tail electronics to burn out. I did do testing using a full 9” size and it over prop the tail motor of which results in the tail blade not turning as fast as it should at full power and of course if run too long that way can overload and burn out the tail electronics on the PCB board. So I figure a blade size of around an 8” size should be a safe, good size to use on the 8006 when using the Tiger Moth blades. I also want to note too that when using a one directional airfoil type blade, the helicopter’s forward speed will be increased while at the same time the backup speed is sacrificed and can become weaker.
Also I would recommend before trying to use a larger tail blade, I would fly the Qs8006 helicopter with the stock tail blade a few flights first in very calm air so as to get the feel of how the helicopter reacts to the controls. The reason is that the larger tail blade will magnify the accelerating and slowing down characters of the helicopter and will require a more gradual tail power application to keep from over pitching the nose of the helicopter during acceleration and slowing down.


Also about the 8006 takeoffs, most helicopters including the 8006 like a quick burst of throttle to clear the ground due to strong thrust deflections off the ground, otherwise they can get tilted sideways and tip over.

About the landing stabilizers, I had used them in the past on my 8005 helicopter and they definitely work and will limit tip over’s on rough ground and even on rather steep hilly ground. I haven’t had to use them on my 8006 since my 8006-2 uses a wider flexible type landing skids that will splay out some according to how hard the landings are, so its not as prone to tip over’s. Although I don’t have the newest version 8006 like you have, but I do tend to think that the stiffer landing skids on the new version of 8006 might be a bit less stable landing.

About the 8006 battery, the G.T Model toy company does list the battery as being a Li-Po battery and can be seen under the Description section and at number 9 as shown at their website ;
http://www.gt-model.cn/Eng/Product_Show.asp?id=207
The battery used on the Qs8006 is a four cell type battery and does put out a lot of power for its size. Of course though a larger battery will extend flight times.

About using grease on the main gears, that’s really up to you since there are advantages and disadvantages to doing that. I don’t use anything on my Qs gears anymore since it just makes the gears messier to work with and can increase the chances of gear slippage and with no real benefit to gear life that I could see. I know on my 8005 helicopter it had close to 150 flights on a set of gears and the gears still looked fine. Generally gear stripping has been the main issue until the new thicker gears came out recently.

About the paint you used on your 8006, its good to hear that those types of paint will work well on the Qs helicopter plastic. I know often times certain type’s of paints can start dissolving certain types of plastics before dry. So its good to hear that the commonly available paints like you used will work fine on most or all of the G.T Model plastic.

Ray
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 03:17 PM
Ret. CH-46 Pilot USMC
United States, OH, Whitehouse
Joined May 2012
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Hey Guys.....
A few notes....
1. The transmitter has the crystal (x-tal) as it provides the CARRIER FREQUENCY which as the name implies carries the signal that is transmitted in PULSE WIDTH MODULATION (PWM) format, not am or fm. The signal is provided by the IC chip on the board which is an analog to digital converter. As you increase the throttle, imagine a volume control, the voltage increases, (analog signal), from 0-5 vdc, the chip then converts the analog signal to a digital hexadecimal signal which is then converted to PWM format and added to the carrier and transmitted.
2, The receiver does not need or use a x-tal as it is tuned to the carrier frequency through the use of a tunable inductor or slug. Once tuned hot wax is poured into the opening to keep it from moving. When turned on, it waits to receive the transmitted signal, when the correct digital signal on the correct carrier signal is received the chip on the receiver does a digital to analog conversion.and sends the appropriate voltage to the correct channel.
A 3 channel setup multiplexes (mixes) three inputs into one signal, so after being converted A/D it is mixed then sent to transmitter section. The receiver does the opposite. Now the output of the receiver chip runs 0-5vdc, no where near what is needed to run a main motor., so the signal is sent to some small SMD transistors that act as amplifiers and boost the signal sent to the Mosfet output transistors which control the main motors.
Now this is a very basic explanation how it works.in reality it is much more complicated. Now Ken, the system is set for 3 channels, but I have noticed that there are some unused pins on the IC chip leading me to believe the possibility of adding channels.... wish I knew what the numbers for the IC were, every board I have seen the top of the IC is blacked out.. more to come.....
any questions just ask....
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by letterman7 View Post
I'm hedging to a bad battery, fraws. My charger has both the red and green lights, and the red one goes out after the battery is fully charged - usually around 3 hours or so. I had a new battery go bad after only a few flights, and the charger would indicate a full charge after about 2 hours, but yet only a scant 2 minutes of full power when connected. If you flew the heli without charging the battery first, it's possible that those cells are now fried... try a new battery and see what happens.
After a full charge and drain I always use a sharpie and put a little dash on the battery. That way I can keep track of how many charges+drain I put on them. With a cheap Li-Po like the 8006 comes with stock, you should optimally get about 50-60 full charges+drain before the battery becomes ready for replacement. With my experience.. I have gotten almost 200 uses out of an expensive Li-Po.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Ray View Post
Hi helicrapter,
The Tiger moth prop size that I used was identical to a GWS 350 size prop, like the 9 x 7 shown in the photo at that website.
Ray
Thanks for the info. I ordered 3 tail blades 9x7 so I have extras. I got the 8006 mostly back together today.. even though I bagged and labeled the screws.. I somehow ended up missing a few.. So i had to pull a few from other places hah. One of the two holes that secure the tail blade assembly to the boom stripped, so Ill have to either get a bigger screw or try some lock tight.

Here is an updated pic of the missiles (all ready for decals). As you can tell, I upload pictures like a mad man.

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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:26 PM
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Hi everyone,
I have come across something that should be checked on new 8006 PCB boards before installing them on the helicopter. Luckily the problem is very easy to fix and I have posted a photo below of what to check for on the PCB boards.
(Note; since 8005 PCB boards are built the same way, the same thing would apply to new Qs8005 PCB boards too).

First I will explain how my helicopter was acting when the PCB wasn‘t working right. I want to mention too that before trying to fly my 8006 with the new PCB board, I did ground test my 8006 thoroughly using the transmitter controls and everything looked and sounded right and I figured the helicopter was good to go.

Well a few days ago I finally got to test fly my Qs8006 with the new updated PCB / receiver board (it’s the updated PCB board that I posted some photos on awhile back).
So on the 1st takeoff attempt I flew the helicopter up to about 6 feet high and immediately I noticed my 8006 started to slowly rotate to the left. I quickly responded by pushing the joystick to the right turn and the helicopter still just kept rotating around in a slow counterclockwise hovering spin. I then quickly tried readjusting the trim to the right and still the helicopter just kept spinning counterclockwise and would not turn to the right, so I quickly landed the helicopter. I initially thought that maybe the trim was way off, so I tried re-adjusting the trim some more with the helicopter just idling on the ground and then decided to try another takeoff. Well immediately upon the next takeoff the helicopter did the same thing again and still there seemed to be no steering even though I could hear the main blades increase their speed like the helicopter was trying to turn. I then landed the helicopter again and tried readjusting the trim to the max to see if that would help. I then tried another takeoff and the helicopter still did its slow spinning and also this time it started to drift towards the house. To avoid getting too close to the house I was forced to shut the throttle off while the helicopter was up about 7 feet high and the helicopter did a straight down free fall with a very hard ground landing, but luckily the super hard landing didn’t cause any damage to the helicopter. Well after 2 more attempts and finally realizing that the helicopter wouldn't turn in any direction and getting the helicopter higher up than I wanted due to the lack of steering distraction and the helicopter just barely miss hitting a tree, I frustratingly landed the helicopter and called it quits for that day.

The next day I started to do some troubleshooting of trying to fix the problem. I decide to make a homemade turntable (I remembered Ken talking about using a turntable) and I figured using a turntable would make it easier and safer to test my helicopter for turning power. Once the turntable was made I then put my helicopter on the turntable and balanced everything out good since the body shell was off the helicopter. Upon throttling up to just idle speed and trying to make the helicopter turn while it was on the turntable, the helicopter acted the same way like when flying outside and it just slowly rotated to the left in slow motion counterclockwise spins with no response to the left or right turning controls. So next I tried a troubleshoot test by unplugging the power to one of the main motors so as to get a better idea on what was happening whenever I tried to make the helicopter turn. Well after finishing the test on that main motor and then repeating the same test with the other main motor, I discovered that both motors would speed up for making a turn like they should, but the only problem was that they were both doing the same thing at the same time no matter if I applied the joystick for a left turn or right turn. (When the main motors are working properly for making the Qs helicopters turn, there will always be a main motor that will slow down some to help with the turning and to help keep the helicopter from rising when the other motor speeds up to do the turning).

Well after seeing what was happening, the 1st thought that came to my mind was that maybe I had soldered the motor connector wires on wrong to the PCB board, but after closely rechecking the PCB board with a magnifying glass and comparing the circuit board to my old PCB board, I was able to decipher out that the motor wires were definitely soldered on right.
So now I started to get those dreaded thoughts of I might have to re-buy a new PCB board when I had just recently bought this new PCB board. Then after thinking about the problem for a day or so a thought occurred to me that the PCB board did appear like it was trying to work right, but then it was also acting like maybe something was crossed wired on the board. I then decided to rechecked the PCB board with the magnifying glass and started to back track more from the soldered on motor wire connections and followed the circuitry path on the board. Then after sometime and just by luck I happen to notice the two motor control units on top of the board and that they looked like they might be touching a little with their top metal parts. So since the motor control units were factory soldered on that way (and also I noticed those parts on my original PCB board weren’t touching like that), I decided to try to just bend the one control unit slightly forward just enough so as to provide clearance between the two motor control units.

After remounting the PCB back onto my 8006, I then put my helicopter back on the turntable and retested my helicopter’s turning power. Well wouldn’t you know it, the turning problem is fixed and the helicopter could easily and strongly turn again. Also, while I was at it I readjusted the helicopter’s trim and was able to get the helicopter trimmed very well on the turntable for the next flight.

Here’s a quickie flying update on how well my Qs8006 helicopter is flying so far.
The next day I flew my helicopter with the new PCB board and after doing two complete flights that day, I found that my Qs8006 is flying better than ever, and so far no power cutouts.

I have posted a photo below showing were the (2) metal parts were touching on the PCB board causing the problem of the helicopter not turning. In the photo I used a pencil to point to the location on the PCB board of were the (2) electronic metal parts were found to be touching and causing a crossed connection. Also since the controllers were factory soldered onto the 8006 PCB board that way, (and I found that the controllers wouldn’t pried apart sideways without possibly damaging them due to being soldered in solidly), so the easiest solution I found was to just lightly finger push bend the one motor controller forward (make it lean forward) just enough so as to clear the controller on the left. (Note; The photo doesn‘t show the controller bent forward yet since I did that after the photo was taken).

Ray
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by boulier1 View Post
Hey Guys.....
A few notes....
1. The transmitter has the crystal (x-tal) as it provides the CARRIER FREQUENCY which as the name implies carries the signal that is transmitted in PULSE WIDTH MODULATION (PWM) format, not am or fm. The signal is provided by the IC chip on the board which is an analog to digital converter. As you increase the throttle, imagine a volume control, the voltage increases, (analog signal), from 0-5 vdc, the chip then converts the analog signal to a digital hexadecimal signal which is then converted to PWM format and added to the carrier and transmitted.
2, The receiver does not need or use a x-tal as it is tuned to the carrier frequency through the use of a tunable inductor or slug. Once tuned hot wax is poured into the opening to keep it from moving. When turned on, it waits to receive the transmitted signal, when the correct digital signal on the correct carrier signal is received the chip on the receiver does a digital to analog conversion.and sends the appropriate voltage to the correct channel.
A 3 channel setup multiplexes (mixes) three inputs into one signal, so after being converted A/D it is mixed then sent to transmitter section. The receiver does the opposite. Now the output of the receiver chip runs 0-5vdc, no where near what is needed to run a main motor., so the signal is sent to some small SMD transistors that act as amplifiers and boost the signal sent to the Mosfet output transistors which control the main motors.
Now this is a very basic explanation how it works.in reality it is much more complicated. Now Ken, the system is set for 3 channels, but I have noticed that there are some unused pins on the IC chip leading me to believe the possibility of adding channels.... wish I knew what the numbers for the IC were, every board I have seen the top of the IC is blacked out.. more to come.....
any questions just ask....
Hi boulier 1,
That’s very interesting information and its great that your able to decipher these heavily technical PCB boards. Thats pretty complicated stuff and great information to know.

Ray
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulier1 View Post
Hey Guys.....
A few notes....
1. The transmitter has the crystal (x-tal) as it provides the CARRIER FREQUENCY which as the name implies carries the signal that is transmitted in PULSE WIDTH MODULATION (PWM) format, not am or fm. The signal is provided by the IC chip on the board which is an analog to digital converter. As you increase the throttle, imagine a volume control, the voltage increases, (analog signal), from 0-5 vdc, the chip then converts the analog signal to a digital hexadecimal signal which is then converted to PWM format and added to the carrier and transmitted.
2, The receiver does not need or use a x-tal as it is tuned to the carrier frequency through the use of a tunable inductor or slug. Once tuned hot wax is poured into the opening to keep it from moving. When turned on, it waits to receive the transmitted signal, when the correct digital signal on the correct carrier signal is received the chip on the receiver does a digital to analog conversion.and sends the appropriate voltage to the correct channel.
A 3 channel setup multiplexes (mixes) three inputs into one signal, so after being converted A/D it is mixed then sent to transmitter section. The receiver does the opposite. Now the output of the receiver chip runs 0-5vdc, no where near what is needed to run a main motor., so the signal is sent to some small SMD transistors that act as amplifiers and boost the signal sent to the Mosfet output transistors which control the main motors.
Now this is a very basic explanation how it works.in reality it is much more complicated. Now Ken, the system is set for 3 channels, but I have noticed that there are some unused pins on the IC chip leading me to believe the possibility of adding channels.... wish I knew what the numbers for the IC were, every board I have seen the top of the IC is blacked out.. more to come.....
any questions just ask....
Hi Boulier1,
I bought a 9104 PCB which I thought, being 27.145mHZ, I might be able to piggy back off the 8006 TX just to run a servo. No luck with that one although there could be a problem with the 9104 PCB. Hook up the battery and the red PCB indicator light comes on then a second later goes off. Don't know if it's faulty or just can't find the "right" TX signal but without a 9104 heli I can't really test it.
The 9104 PCB has a PWM 3 pin setup for a small servo and an IC similar to the 8006. Like the 8006 IC it has no distinguishing marks but I figured I could at least find which pin provided the pulse and work from there with the 8006 IC. If only it were that easy.
If the 8006 TX/RX is PWM then there has to be a contact on the IC where one can "tap" into the pulse signal to the electronics for the tail rotor power.... doesn't there?
I've uploaded a pic so you can see what I mean regarding the IC.
cheers,
Ken
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:40 AM
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Joined Apr 2012
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helicrapter,

Easiest way to balance the 8006 I have found is to remove the balance bar and both sets of blades then hang the heli from the balance bar pivot pin hole with some fishing line. No need to remove the blade holders/grips but don't lose the pivot pin sleeve, if fitted (Later version does not appear to have the pivot pin sleeve).
Add weight until the lower edge of the side plate is level to slightly down at the front end. That's it, reassemble the blades and balance bar and enjoy your flying.
Ken
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Hi everyone,
Here’s an early update on my Qs8006 helicopter since putting on the new updated 8006 PCB board. (Note; It’s the board that has the 2 little green jumper wires on top and it has the extra (2) 207 IC electronic parts added on in place of where the motor connectors use to be.

Well so far so good and my 8006 has been flying 100 percent trouble free, and the new updated board seems to of fixed the random power cutout issue that I was having with my helicopter while flying. I’ve now done 5 complete flights with my 8006 since putting on the new PCB and there hasn’t even been a hint of a power cutout or sputter. I will know more though once I put in a few more flights on my 8006.

I should mention too that my 8006 has been flying with a new tail motor (the one with the capacitor) and the new updated 4mm thick main gears on it, and so far everything is working great.

Ray
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 01:31 PM
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Hi helicrapter,
I was just looking at the newest updated version of 8006 (like the one you have) on eBay and I just noticed that the new version 8006’s do seem to lean back onto the tail support when resting on the ground. It kind of looks like to me that the landing skids is mounted further forward on the newer versions of which would cause the helicopter to sit tipped back a bit when resting on the ground. I would think though that with the helicopter sitting tipped back like that for takeoffs, the helicopter would probably tend to drift back some on takeoff’s until it levels out.

So after seeing more photos of the new version 8006s, I now think that the balance on your helicopter isn’t really off like I was originally thinking in my other post. I guess I’m just kind of use to seeing my original 8006 sitting level on its landing skids, but then of course even sitting like that isn‘t a very good indicator as to how well balanced the helicopter is. The rotor shaft balance point is the important thing.

Ray
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