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Old Mar 30, 2012, 07:57 AM
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Nice work! I'd imagine the overall weight isn't much more than the stock blade, and since it seems to much improve the maneuverability the mod is a definite thing to do!
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 01:26 PM
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Hi Rick,

The larger tail blade isn’t really much heavier than the stock tail blade, but the larger blade does add lots more tail thrust than the stock tail blade. The smaller laminated stock blade I tried last summer actually felt heavier even though it was smaller than my new blade, and I wasn’t real impressed with it. I liked using the blades from the Tiger Moth prop’s since they are thinner than regular RC propeller’s and the airfoil part is kind of cupped to resist flexing. Also, the Tiger Moth blades are designed for the slower rpm geared type motor speeds like the current QS tail system. I should of mentioned though, that when using the larger tail blade on the 8005, I have been keeping the Li-Po a ½” to ¾” further forward. Even before that though, I always kept the battery ½” further forward to stop a slight drift back that the 8005 would always do whenever the helicopter was taking off. Now even though I have the larger tail blade on the helicopter, my 8005 always takes off straight up without any drift back.

When it comes to the 8006 helicopter, I like seeing all the different ways and ideas everyone is trying with their 8006 helicopter‘s. The larger 8006 seems to be a little different flying when comparing it to the 8005.

Also, I was just thinking about the 8006 and its transmitter, if the 8006 transmitter’s doesn’t have any on and off switch for the LED lights, then the 8006 helicopter can’t really be called a 3.5 channel by the sellers. Unless I’m over looking something, I would think that the 8006’s transmitter can only be called a 3 channel since there is no extra channel for turning the LED lights on and off . I checked the G.T. model website and the 8006 is listed as a 3.5 channel and they have at description at number 8 that says;

8.the remote control has the push button of control of body function with light

So, I’m not sure what to think about that one.

By the way one last thing, (in reference to hooleydog’s post about mounting motor/ propeller to lower frame), I was just checking the wires going to the tail motor on my 8005 and I had forgot that the wires going to the tail motor are heavier gauge than the wires for the LED lights. So that idea I had of using the LED switch to control an extra tail size motor probably wouldn’t of worked even if the 8006 had the LED switch on the transmitter, since most likely the LED’s are running on lower voltage.

Ray
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Last edited by Pilot Ray; Mar 30, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Nope, 'taint a spare button anywhere on the transmitter. They may be calling it a 3.5 because we do have a switch that supposedly limits power to the motors - a "high" and "low" setting for when you're just learning to fly the craft. Personally, I haven't noticed any discernible difference in those two settings!
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 07:41 PM
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Hi Rick,

I was wondering, is the Hi / Low switch on your 8006 transmitter located just below the throttle’s joystick (trim button). On my 8005 transmitter the Hi / Lo switch is located just below the throttle’s joystick in place of the trim button. When I switch the Hi / Low button on my Qs8005 transmitter, I guess there is around a 30 to 35 percent difference in full throttle rpm’s.

Ray
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 08:04 PM
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It's below the right stick, as for my 8006 Tranny. I have fitted a 11.1v lipo battery..
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
It's below the right stick, as for my 8006 Tranny. I have fitted a 11.1v lipo battery..
Yes, it's on the right side under the stick. Why would you downgrade your available voltage from 14.4 to 11.1?
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 08:21 PM
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No I ment the Transmitter not the heli (thats still on 14.8v)
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Hi everyone

If anyone has any G.T. model helicopter video’s that you would like to share on the thread, feel free to post them or post a link to them. I noticed on You-Tube that the larger Qs8006 helicopters seems to be picking up more viewers faster than the Qs8005 helicopter videos. Looks like the big 8006 is going to be very, very popular soon.

Ray
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Hi,

I have posted some tips below that may help other Qs8005 helicopter flyers. The information below are things that I did to my 2011 Qs8005 helicopter last year that solved a couple of baffling power glitch issues that I was having with my Qs8005. In my case, the power glitches were sometimes bad enough that the helicopter’ power would sporadically sputter or cutout (sometimes as long as 2 seconds) and it resulted in several unnecessary crashes.
Since doing all 3 things listed below last summer (2011), my 8005 has never had a glitch again and my helicopter has been running great since that time. The last thing in the list below (#4) is about the antenna wire placement and is something that should never be done on 8005 helicopter.

1. The bare metal wires of the LED lights (on the inner body shell) should be checked to make sure they don’t touch the aluminum frame whenever body shell is mounted on the helicopter.
If the bare metal wires of the LED lights touch the aluminum frame, it could cause electrical short and helicopter electrical power issues.
To correct; Will need to use about a 2” x 2” size of thick tape (Gorilla tape works great for this) and cover the unprotected metal LED wire’s nearest to the frame. Simply hold the body shell in one hand and then with the other hand bend the LED’s metal wire’s in firmly against the inside of the body shell. While holding the wires firmly in place, apply the tape over the bare metal wire’s so as to cover them and hold them securely against the inside of the body shell. The LED wire ends tend to sit close to the frame on both sides of the helicopter and the taping should be done on both sides of the inner body shell. The tape will insulate the metal wire ends from accidentally touching the aluminum frame body while flying and possibly causing an electrical short.

2. Antenna wire should be wrapped with a piece of rubber to keep antenna wire from touching aluminum frame.
If the antenna wire touches the aluminum frame, the helicopter may develop a slight motor sputter while flying. The once in awhile slight sputter can be mistaken for transmitter interference or a bad receiver, when more than likely the problem is being caused by the antenna wire touching or rubbing against the aluminum frame.
To correct: simply use a 1.5 “ long x ¼” wide thin piece of rubber (I used a piece of inner tube rubber) and firmly wrap the antenna wire with the piece of rubber in the area of where the antenna wire will touch the aluminum frame. A 1.5” long piece of rubber should be put on length wise with the antenna wire, and then wrap the ¼” wide part of the rubber around the antenna wire. Then use tape (scotch tape is ok) and then wrap the rubber so as to hold the rubber in place on the antenna wire.
Note; On my helicopter (instead of running the antenna wire between the frame and body shell) I run my antenna wire from the receiver and out through the lower slot hole on the right side of the frame (at front part of frame). I placed the rubber on that part of the antenna wire so it would be insulated against coming in direct contact with the aluminum frame.
(Note; when working with the antenna wire, always leave a slight amount of slack in the antenna wire coming from the receiver to the frame so that the antenna wire can move a little during a hard landing or crash).

3. Antenna should be wrapped around plastic landing struts only.
The antenna wire should not touch any aluminum part of the helicopter, or the helicopter may develop a static motor sputter while flying.
To correct: the antenna wire should only be wrapped around the plastic landing strut (near the bottom part) at the area of where G.T Model has put the two little plastic prongs on each strut. On my Qs8005, I lightly wrap the antenna wire from the front landing strut to the back landing strut (on the right side and between the little prongs), and then I use a little piece of Velcro (can use tape) and just wrap the antenna wire about half way between the two right side landing struts to hold the antenna wire in place. (Note; Always make sure to leave a little slack in the antenna wire going from the landing strut to the frame and from the frame to the receiver)

4. Never, Never run the antenna wire along tail boom on the Qs8005 helicopter.
The antenna wire should never be run along the tail boom of the Qs8005 helicopter since the helicopter will not respond to the transmitter properly and can takeoff wildly with no control. The tail boom apparently makes some sort of static type inference that can interfere with proper receiver and antenna operation.
How do I know this, last summer I once tried flying my helicopter with the antenna wire mounted along the tail boom. Just as I applied a little throttle for takeoff, my helicopter just took off on its own and went straight up for about 2 or 3 seconds. The transmitter had no control over the helicopter and lucky for me the helicopter finally shut off at about 15 feet up, and my Qs8005 fell straight back down to the ground. Luckily no damage except the aluminum battery holder needed to be bent back up slightly. Since that happened, I always keep my Qs8005’s antenna wire mounted on the plastic landing struts as described in #3 above and have never had a problem again.

Ray
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Last edited by Pilot Ray; Apr 04, 2012 at 12:54 PM.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 04:13 PM
Darren
Joined Mar 2012
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Thanks Ray

That pretty much goes for the 8006 as well, twice I have tried to wrap the antenna wire around the tail boom and both times the heli glitched wildly causing a crash.
It's rather scary when these big helis take on a mind of thier own but luckily no real damage was done.
Now I just leave it wrapped around the landing legs.

Darren
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Yep, good write-up Ray. I've taken to let my antenna wire dangle freely underneath the heli per other conversations on the forum. It's supposed to increase the range and keep the radio "stutter" to a minimum. Some guys have tied on small washers to keep the antenna downward. I don't know what effect, if any, a dangling wire will have if and when I get the heli back flying (still waiting on control boards).. if it gets enough forward speed, I don't want the wire to wrap the rear rotor!
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 09:59 PM
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Hello Darren,

Thanks for the antenna wire info.. I was curious about that and though maybe the Qs8006 might also act wildly with the antenna wire / tail boom mounting. That’s good to know and will forewarn other Qs8006 helicopter flyers.

By the way, how's the flying been going over your way.

Ray
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Hi Rick,

I have heard about letting the antenna wire dangling with the RC helicopter’s. My only concern about doing it that way might be if it snags or catches on something. I think the weight on the end of the antenna wire might help since it would help keep the wire from being whipped upward with these large heli‘s.
On the Qs8005 though, I tend to think that G.t Model wants the antenna wire wrapped between the landing strut since they do have a couple little plastic guide pins on each landing strut (leg) to wrap the antenna wire around on. I haven't had any problems with the control range so far, but then I haven't flown past 125 feet out.
I have a wish list I’ve been making and one thing on it is about the antenna wire. If G.T Model would start using a 2.4 Ghz system on their big helicopters, the antenna wire wouldn’t even be noticeable since a 2.4 Ghz antenna wire is only about 3” long.

Ray
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Last edited by Pilot Ray; Apr 04, 2012 at 10:32 PM.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
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hey, i have a 8006
i cant figure out how to change this top part, can somebody help me?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...42138323_n.jpg



i bought the part, just cant chang it out
its the silver pin thing that i dont know how to get out

please help
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 07:32 AM
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United States, PA, Downingtown
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That holds your balance bar in place. They can be difficult the first time. The only way I can get mine out is to take a small nail about the same diameter and lightly tap it on the end of the balance bar pivot with a light hammer. Not kidding. I've gotten to the point where I can secure the top of the blade holder with my left hand and hold the nail with two fingers on the pivot while tapping with my right hand. It'll take some good raps, but you just want to get it started out of the plastic. Once you have 1/8" showing you should be able to grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Rick
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