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Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:32 AM
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United States, PA, Downingtown
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Cool! Looks sinister in black, and I'm sure that's what you were going for :-). Tell me more about the "twister" rear blade - is that an aircraft component by chance?

Ray, I don't think the factory gives a tinker's damn about any upgrades to these birds. I'm fairly certain that they build not only the '06, but the '05 and every other helicopter with the fake carbonfiber airframe. These things are popping up everywhere here in the US lately it seems, so as long as sales are strong why complicate things?
Even though the thing flys (sort of) well, I'd like to see larger blades made available. These short chunky style just don't suit the size of the heli!
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Hi Rick,
I think your right about the companies that make them, but I think it would really help their sells a lot if they would take some feed back from the customer’s. I think that way, they could make the helicopter’s even better and would sell them much more faster.

By the way, I was just wondering if you tried checking the balance (weight) of the main blades. I have found that the main blades for the 8005 can vary a slight bit in weight (sometimes quite a bit). Last summer when I put on a new set of blades on my 8005, on the very first flight with the new blades, I noticed that my helicopter was shaking quite a bit. After a couple flights, I took the blades back off and put them on an accurate T bar balance scale that I made out of wood so I could compare the weights of the blade. I found that every blade varied a bit in weight with one being quite a bit heavier. When comparing the blades visually, the blades all looked exactly the same, but yet they all varied slight in weight. After I balanced them out equally in weight, the helicopter stopped the shaking and helicopter ran smoother than even when I bought it new.
Also another thing, I was thinking maybe one of the fly bar weights is lighter (or heavier) than the other. To do a quick check on their weight, you could take all the main blades off the main rotor shaft, then remove the main motors from their frame mount so they aren‘t against the main gears, then hold the helicopter tipped over on it’s side so that the rotor shafts are facing as horizontal as possible. Then just rotate the fly bar weights to as perfect of an horizontal position that you can get them, and see if the fly bar will stay in that position. If the fly bar stays, then their weights are ok and they are balanced very well. If the fly bar barely moves to a ” or so, then the weight balance is still pretty good. If one side of the fly bar slowly drops maybe down an 1 inch or so, then that weight is slightly heavier and the fly bar is slightly out of balance. If one weight on the fly bar keeps dropping to the bottom every time you try it, then it is way too heavy and either it should be lighten or a little weight added to the other fly bar weight. Also when doing this test several times, make sure to rotate the fly bar 180 degrees so as to swap the weights position around and test them again several times. If the same weight on the fly bar drops to the bottom again when on the other side, then that weight is most likely heavier and is out of balance. I should note too, that this is a quick test and isn’t a 100 percent accurate since it depends on how straight the inner shaft is, but if one fly bar weight is some what heavier, it will really show up.

Ray
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Last edited by Pilot Ray; Mar 28, 2012 at 02:11 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 02:12 PM
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Hi Darren,

Your 8006 looks like a spy copter now. That’s interesting on how you mounted your camera.
I was wondering how your video’s are turning out since you have the camera mounted in the foam? Looks like the foam not only protects the camera, but also looks like it could help on limiting vibration to the camera. Your airfoil tail blade looks great and looks like it does the job. I made a tail blade for my 8005 that is a bit different and it too is a directional curved airfoil type blade. I will be posting a photo of it as soon as I can, and will explain why I made it the way I did..

Ray
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Hi everyone,
I have posted a couple of photo’s of my Qs8005 helicopter showing what it looks like after I lowered the B blade holder. The one photo shows a close up of the new spacer I made for under the B blade holder on the outer rotor shaft. It also shows a thick plasic tube I made for above the blade holder to cover the old screw hole and to strengthen the outer rotor shaft tube some. Just below the rotor shaft and on the side of the frame you will see the plastic pin mounts for the body / canopy of which I switched around (put left one on right side, and right one on left side) so it would lower the body shell down about 10 to 12 mm.
Also, Although it is hard to see in the photo, the photo also shows the very thin plastic shims I made and put under the pivot bushing flange (shim is located between little bushing flange and the aluminum part of the blade grip) so as to remove any play on the main blade pivots.

Ray
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 04:24 PM
Darren
Joined Mar 2012
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G'day Rick

The twister blades are actualy a set of upper blades from my "mini twister scale" heli. I cut the GT blades short and diagonaly and used high strength epoxy and six screws to attach the twister blades and a quick squirt of black paint of course.
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:18 PM
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Ray,
The only measurement I made with the blades was with a digital postal scale. They were (at least the batch I have now) exactly the same weights, but I haven't balanced them to see if that weight was equally distributed. The flybar(s) I have - and I always have a spare - I balance with a pin through the center hole held in a vice, and making sure the pin is parallel to the ground. Only one bar had one weight slightly heavier than the other, so a quick grind took care of that. I one wish for these flybars (at least on the 8006) is that they had screw-on weights; as it stands the weights are glued in place and can't be removed without lots of heat... sometimes melting the weight itself. Ask me how I know :-). I have a flybar from a 8005 that I was going to try since it was slightly smaller but wouldn't you know that the pivot point is just enough different that it won't mount correctly. I managed to work the round bars free of the center plastic hub (again with heat) and re-mount them in the hub of a wrecked '06 bar (again, with heat) but haven't had to try it out yet.
With the shims in place, how tight are the blades in the holders? I thought they had to have a certain amount of play to swivel back and forth?
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 09:21 PM
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hi Fella's

I also have a QS8006 heli, and all though I've done the tail mod (longer prop). I've gone one more step further and added another tail unit to the frame, under the boom, so the heli will be able to handle a bit more of a breeze (have more control), as I found this mod on Youtube. But the prop is a bit smaller than the one at the back, so it won't hit the frame or skids..

I'll let you know how I get on with this mod..
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 03:07 AM
Darren
Joined Mar 2012
27 Posts
I've seen that mod too "Dog" and it got me thinking about using a ducted fan in place of the tail rotor to give it more of a direct foreward "push" instead of just a tilt!
What do you blokes recon?

Just had a thought that if a ducted fan pushed it forward more than tilting it, maybe it would help reduce the sideways deathroll.
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Last edited by Daggy; Mar 29, 2012 at 05:01 AM. Reason: Had a thought.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:23 AM
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I haven't experienced the sideways deathroll yet, probably because I'm too scared to put this thing through it's paces at a rate any faster than a quick walk. But.. my feeling is a "pusher" type prop or ducted fan would only be minimal since the main blades themselves are always "hovering". Kind of like my 9100, if you change the angle of the main rotors you'll pull the heli in that direction. Granted, with a fixed pitch heli it's basically "falling" in that direction under control (sometimes), so if you don't change the angle (i.e. stay at a hover), then a pusher fan will just nudge you along. Now.. if you could figure out how to put one of those electric jet ducted fans at the back and not kill the on board circuit board with the extra power, that might do something.. if not throw off the balance a little bit.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 01:12 PM
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Hi Rick,

When I shimmed the main blades on my Qs8005, I made it so they were just a hair snug in the blade holder. The blades are snug enough to still hold them selves out straight when I lean the helicopter over on its side. I don’ think there is much to be gained by making them any tighter fitting than that. Even with the blades slightly snug, they easily straighten out on the second turn of start up because of their weight. I didn’t want to make them any more snugger than that because I didn’t want the main blades to bash things harder than they already do now. The main reason for the blades to swivel is just to lower the impacts to the helicopter’s drive train and its blades when crashing, and also make it less dangerous along with less damage if hitting anything. The pivot snugness has two benefits, It helps to eliminate up and down play at the main blade tips, and it helps a very little micro amount to hold back (slow) the main blades as they want to free swing whenever the throttle is shut off fast. That micro second free wheeling swing back is what brings the A and B blades closest to each other for possibly hitting each other.

Ray
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 01:36 PM
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Like Rick was saying, the main blade rotor tilt is probably the easiest way to get forward moving power and speed. With the larger tail rotor on my 8005, my Qs8005 can now hold its main rotor blades tilted to around 30 degrees flying along and it looks like the helicopter is moving about 25 to 30 mph. The pusher blade experiment that hooleydog is trying is interesting though. Maybe it could be hooked up to run off the LED switch like a backup boost. Like Rick was saying though, the small propeller might have a tough time over coming the big main blade thrust. Anything is worth a try to see what happens, experimenting is the way to find out though.

Ray
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 04:38 PM
Darren
Joined Mar 2012
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G'day fella's

If I can find out the specs on the stock tail motor, I might give the fan a try. I don't want to fry the electronics!
I don't have a problem with my 4 channel coax's as far as the sideways deathroll is concerned and I think that may be due to the steeper angle of attack on the 8006. If I can rig up a swivelling mount for the fan I could adjust it's angle and maybe find a sweetspot, i'm also thinking that a pusher might need to be closer to the body of the heli. I'm picturing the 8006 with another 20cm taken off the tail.
Keep the ideas coming fellas and I'll see what info, if any, I can find out about the electronics.

Darren
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 05:28 PM
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"more snugger"?

Switching off the LED lead might work for the 8005. The 8006 doesn't have that option, unfortunately! But I imagine finding the voltage and amperage rating for the tail rotor of the 8006 might not be hard to do, then try to find the appropriate ducted fan.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:33 PM
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Hi everyone,

I have posted some photos of the larger tail blade I made for my Qs8005.

When building the larger tail blade, my goal was to mainly give the Qs8005 helicopter more forward power and speed while also trying to retain some backup speed. I figured the best way to do this was to make a one directional airfoil type propeller for stronger forward speed, but at the same time I figured I would make the tail blade larger so it would compensate for the weaker thrust whenever the tail blade spins in reverse for backing up the helicopter. The bigger tail blade that I made doubled the helicopter’s forward moving power and speed while retaining about the same backup speed that it had with the stock blade.
When using this type larger tail blade, one thing to watch is that it does require more careful modulation of the tail rotor power whenever accelerating from a hover. If full power is applied to the tail blade all at once when accelerating from a hover, the larger tail blade’s thrust can actually over lift the tail of the helicopter and put it up on its nose. To get around this, I have to gradually apply the power to the tail rotor whenever the helicopter is accelerating from a hover for about the first 20 feet or so. Once the helicopter has started accelerating some then full tail power can be used for maximum speed. Also, the extra tail rotor thrust is much more sensitive to forward and back joystick control when trying to fly slow to maneuver in a tight spot, so the tail power has to be applied very, very lightly in those situations.

Here is how I built the larger tail blade.
I first take the stock tail blade and cut the blades back so that they are just 1” long when measured from the center of the screw hole to the cut end. I then sand the top flat part of the little blade that’s left for about 3/8” in from the cut end. I then clean the sanded surface with rubbing alcohol. Next, I took a Gaunli Tiger Moth biplane propeller and measured in 3 9/16” from the blade tip end and then cut the outer part of the blade off for using it on my large tail blade. I used this type of directional propeller since the Tiger Moth propellers are thin, strong, has a nice airfoil shape for lower rpm’s and also is light weight. (Note; the Guanli Tiger Moth airplane propeller is the same as GWS 350 Tiger Moth propeller except that the GWS propeller is orange in color). I next sanded about 3/8” in from the cut end on the Tiger Moth blade (the underside part) and then cleaned the sanded surface with rubbing alcohol. Next dry fit the Tiger Moth blade onto the other blade part to make sure it fits and lays as good as possible (can cut and trim the blade sections with sharp scissors if needed) . Next I used a glue called Plastic welder made by VersaChem and put some glue on about 3/8” of the end part of the Tiger Moth blade and also put glue on about 3/8” of the end part of the little stock blade. (Note; the VersaChem glue is sold at NAPA and Autozone is sold in a two part dispenser like epoxy glue. The glue has a set time of 4 minutes, a handling time of 15 minutes, and is fully cured in 24 hours. The glue is pretty strong smelling and is a cream color when dry). Next I quickly overlaid the Tiger Moth blade 3/8” to cover 3/8“ of the top part of the short piece of stock tail blade. The VersaChem glue sets in 3 to 4 minuets, so the two pieces of blades will have to be positioned as quickly as possible and held in position for a few minutes until the glue has set. I found it is easiest to just hold blades together with my fingers until the glue set hard enough to hold everything together. I also cleaned off any excess glue as it was drying with my finger and a paper towel. The main thing to watch for when gluing the parts together is to make sure that the Tiger Moth blades are put on equally to each other, make sure that the Tiger Moth blades are put on as straight across from each other as possible (watch the up and down angles too), and make to sure that the Tiger Moth blades are laying good and flat against the stock tail blade part so that the blades will have good pitch. After the glue has set after a few minutes, repeat on other side’s blade the same way. Once everything is dry, I used a piece of fine sand paper to smooth out any sharp or rough edges of glue and plastic edges. To finish up the blade I used a black Sharpie marker and red Sharpie marker to touch up the blade to make it look good.

I want to mention too that last summer I did try to modify the stock tail blade by just laminating and gluing on some thin plastic onto the tops of the blades. I made them a “ long and “ wider, but the results weren’t that much better than the stock blade.

Ray
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Last edited by Pilot Ray; Mar 31, 2012 at 01:13 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Hi Rick,
I can’t believe G.T Model didn’t put a on and off switch for the LED lights on the 8006 transmitter. I always turn them off on my Qs8005 when I fly in the day time to save on power for a few extra seconds of flying time. I guess the reasoning on the 8006 is that with over 14 volt’s the LED power use is so tiny that it is really not noticeable.

Ray
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