Originally Posted by Daggy

G'day Fella's

The speed controller arrived today from HongKong but I have just found out that the ducted fan that I ordered on the 4th of April from the states, is not in stock!!!!!!!!!AHHH.
I will test the controller to find out the voltage's it will give me, and order a lower voltage fan if I can, just to get one sooner.

Ken, 20c should be plenty and is the burst rate.

One thing about these big heli's is that when that battery gets low, it will drop like a sack of spuds, without warning. I have a voltage alarm on mine "now".

Darren

Hi Darren,
I like your alarm idea for when the battery gets low. Both the 8005 and 8006 will just shut down when the battery reaches a certain point and just drop. Last year the 8005 battery caught me off guard several times and the heli came down pretty hard.

I am planning on putting the alarm on my heli’s soon, and I was wondering if your new alarm is working good and approximately how far into the flight does the warning alarm sound on your 8006?

I don’t know much about them, but I think it would be great if the alarm would go off about a minute before the battery looses all power.

Ray

Originally Posted by RCMad39

Hello again just out of curiosity does anyone have any ideas on how to strengthen the main blades on the Qs8005 or where to get a stronger make of blade ? ? just getting used to changing blades everytime i have a slight rollover is going to become expensive especially on slight windy days

Hi RCMAD39,
One way I stopped most roll overs on my 8005 was I put outrigger rods on so as to widen the heli’s landing stance and that really helped a lot. On the 8005, any time the motor power isn’t cut in time before the blades hit a hard object or the ground, the high impact force’s will cause the blades to get chewed up, chipped or broken and can even damage main gears. If the power is cut in time as the roll over occurs, the blades momentum can still cause a few dents on the leading edge. If the main blades only have a few nicks or dents on them, they can still be used. If there are many dents, I have straighten dents on main blades by either squeezing the high spots with pliers, or take the blade off and lay it on hard surface and lightly hammer on the dent to flatten it back smooth with the leading edge. If many dents are fixed, I then also put more of a finishing touch on the edge of the blade by using a small flat metal file to smooth and contour out any excessive wide spots so as to limit excessive blade drag.
The easiest solution I found to help limit main blade damage was to shim the pivots of the main blades to take out any up and down play, and to lower the B blade hub down 10mm as mentioned in my other posts in the thread. Since doing that and using the outriggers, I haven’t needed to buy any more blades.

Ray

Originally Posted by Trainee Ken

Ray,
Regarding my problem with and your post of April 23: Lower gear screws coming loose.
Had a chance to sort mine out today and the gear now feels like it's welded on.
The original 2.5mm screws just did not seem to have enough grip and if you tightened them too much, the head either cammed out or snapped off altogether.
I retapped the holes and fitted 3mm x 3mm grub screws. A bit fiddly but being hardened steel and having that knurled end they lock onto the shaft like a limpet and the 3mm diameter neatly locks onto each side of the inner shafts cut out section and can't move up or down. Could/should have used a longer grub screw as the 3mm ends up recessed well into the gear hub. Only a problem though if I need to get it out and the hex end is stuffed.10mm long would be ideal but they didn't have them in stock. On order.
Ken

Hi Ken,
Your fix by using stronger screws for keeping the lower main gear from coming loose sounds like a good solution.
By the way, you said the screws you used were grub screws, are they the same thing as Allen head type screws?
I thought that was what you probably where refering to, but I wasn't 100 percent sure since they are refered to by many different names.

Ray

Originally Posted by Pilot Ray

Hi Ken,
Your fix by using stronger screws for keeping the lower main gear from coming loose sounds like a good solution.
By the way, you said the screws you used were grub screws, are they the same thing as Allen head type screws?
I thought that was what you probably where refering to, but I wasn't 100 percent sure since they are refered to by many different names.

Ray

Yes Ray, except they have no head. The graphic explains it better than I can.
Ken

From discussions with my parts supplier it seems that the black gears now being supplied supersede the original white ones with white no longer available.

Received 5 of the new black gears and shafts and decided to fit one to see how it ran. Got to take of speed and the 8006 started shaking badly, then jumping all over the place. Luckily I had anchored the 8006 for the test.

Many hours later: Eventually found that every one of the gears is out of round. For about two thirds of the gears circumference the teeth have a slight bit of backlash with the motor gear. The other one third binds on the motor gear with absolutely no backlash at all. In fact (after the event) you can feel the gears tighten up as they turn through the high spot.
I had no trouble with the original white gears and checked three that I had, including the one from O’S. A slight backlash for the whole 360 degrees on all of them.

Not a clue yet as to how this can be fixed. Going to sleep on it.

PS I have put in some 20 flights with O'S now, very smooooooooooooooth.

Ken

Watch my qs 8006 video!How cool it is!

Banggood Biggest QS 8006 134cm 3.5ch Gyro 2 Speed Model rc helicopter LED lights 8006 RTF.mpg (2 min 47 sec)

Really Aaron? Nice video, and from a distributor, not you, unless you live overseas. I've seen it before. It's nothing but an ad for the heli and really, doesn't show off any potential fast forward flight and turn maneuvers, where most of us are having issues. And I'll have to bust on you for the ridiculous captions - obviously from the original poster and the Chinglish translations.. "The proportion of stepless speed regulation of three channel wireless remote control system." Huh?

I appreciate you being a site sponsor - I really do. Without people like yourselves these sites would fold due simply to the costs involved keeping them going. But don't post other people's videos. We want to see "real world" flights from actual users - not a sales flight.

R

Originally Posted by Trainee Ken

Yes Ray, except they have no head. The graphic explains it better than I can.
Ken

Hi Ken,
Now I see what you mean about the screws (set screws). They are perfect for lightness for their size and are commonly used for locking hub type things on to shafts. The set screws definitely tighten down and grip a lot better than the Phillips head screws.
About the black gears, maybe if nothing else maybe the black gears will prove to have stronger plastic than the white gears (wishful thinking).

Ray

Originally Posted by Pilot Ray

Hi Ken,
About the black gears, maybe if nothing else maybe the black gears will prove to have stronger plastic than the white gears (wishful thinking).

Ray

What a PITA. Took all day to sort out the out of round gear problem. Won't go into too much detail here unless it's asked for. Two choices, leave it as was and cross my fingers every take off and landing or fix it. I ended up moving the motor. I figure that even with a gear slowly being stripped in flight I have some chance of getting it down in one piece.
Ken

A larger battery, say around 2200 mA - 2800 mA could increase flight time maybe 15% - 25%. Being heavier and if located up the front, this could alter the heli's balance/CG and or flight characteristics.
On the other hand, fitting an updated "battery box" (see pic) which locates the battery under the drive shafts and provides access via a trap door in the base would allow a 100% increase in flight time for each spare 1500mA battery one had. Change a battery in the field and off you go again. 5 minutes or so to change the battery should allow motors to cool a bit though what affect moving the battery from its current position to under the drive shafts has on the heli is anyone’s guess. As I said just thinking out loud.
Out of interest I checked the current drain on OS's battery under load (blades on). At half throttle 3.89 Amps, at full throttle, a whopping 10.3 Amps. Even my meter leads were getting warm and no wonder flight time is only 5 or 6 minutes.
Ken

Yeah, I know it would throw the balance off. I was thinking about moving the electronics tray to the bottom of the heli chassis, right above the skids, then that would allow room to move a heavier battery backwards into the chassis, negating any balance issues. But yes, just thinking out loud. It only takes a few minutes to remove the canopy and replace a battery in the field, but it would be nice not to have that downtime and more actual flight time. Interesting notes on the current draw, Ken. That's amazing how much power is actually flowing through these things!

On a positive note, here's a quicky video of my 8006 flying on a beautiful evening at twilight. My neighbor is working the camera and had never filmed with it before, so there are some odd shots, but that's ok. Note the blade slap against the chassis on a hard level turn. The lower blades are even trimmed to clear the chassis (for the most part), and this flight was the second after the replacement of the lower blade gear and shaft. This flight is nothing spectacular, just some easy drifts around the backyard. Standard tail rotor, too!

Qs8006 evening flight.mpeg (3 min 39 sec)

Originally Posted by letterman7

.....here's a quicky video of my 8006 flying on a beautiful evening at twilight.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNym6OFj8Y0&feature=plcp

Nice one Rick. Trees, houses, vehicles and other obstacles don't seem to affect the heli one bit. Here, one tree in a hundred acre paddock and OS will seek it out. Forwards, backwards, sideways or against a 40 knot breeze, OS will head straight for it. Perhaps trees and other obstacles down under have much higher magnetic properties to plastic than they do in the States.
Ken

Oh yes, yard objects have a similar magnetic plastic coefficient! That's why it was a very lazy flight - my yard isn't all that big and whenever the weather cooperates it's too late in the day to drive to an open field. The large tree that the heli is in front of for much of the time (next to my trailer) claimed my neighbor's Double Horse 9053 a few days ago. It is, of course, almost all the way at the top with no hope of ever falling free...

Originally Posted by letterman7

.....It is, of course, almost all the way at the top with no hope of ever falling free...

Of course it's near the top of the tree, that's where the plastic magnetism is the strongest.

Hi Rick
That was a really good video of your Qs8006 helicopter. Your 8006 helicopter looked like it was flying pretty nicely. I really didn’t see any noticeable vibration on your heli. Well if your heli is flying that good now, I would definitely be happy with those results after all that bad luck problems you’ve had with your helicopter. I did notice too that it looks like that using a larger tail blade for more speed really couldn’t be used in your flying area, (not enough open space for accelerating and slowing down) other than when flying against a breeze.
Good job!

Ray