SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Mar 23, 2012, 05:22 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
United States, NJ, East Brunswick
Joined Nov 2008
1,378 Posts
Discussion
Revell Gato build questions

Hi. I have been in the scale boats section alot and often check in here just to read. Last month at the WRAM show I was able to acquire a Revell Gato from Mike's Subworks. It was being sold with a damaged box due to the pool leaking. It was a great price andI couldn't pass it up.

Very rarely do I have 2 projects lined up, so after I finish my current build, a 1949 Chris Craft Racing Runabout http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1597328 I am gonna start on the Gato.

A couple of questions and I appoligize if these have already been answered someplace else, I did a search and didn't see them. I have built numerious plastic models and always used plastic model cement for those, but they don't go in the water. The boats that I have built that go in the water, I use CA. So what do I use for a plastic kit that can modifed to R/C?

Second question.. I know there are some really well made and detailed photoetched kits for the Gato. Can I use them, if I plan to eventually put this boat in the water? Concerned about the weight issue. My feeling is that the model should look it's best out of the water since it spend 95% of the time on display, and therefore photoetching would look great, but curious if anyone knows how this will affect the performance and balance of the sub in the water.

Scott
laser110 is offline Find More Posts by laser110
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Mar 23, 2012, 08:52 PM
Registered User
Ladysmith Vancouver Island
Joined Feb 2008
577 Posts
the only thing to watch with CA is if it's impact shocked, it can release... other then that.. should be fine

for the photoetch kits... the big "issue" is the brass expands and contracts way differently then the plastic of the model... so nice warm sub (aka car ride, or sitting in the sun till launch) + cold water = photoetch might pop off...
Reckless is offline Find More Posts by Reckless
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 23, 2012, 11:59 PM
Suspended Account
United States, CA, Corona
Joined Nov 2003
554 Posts
If you want to build the Gato correctly contact this link below They will give you the right information and they have all the parts you will ever need for model submarines;
http://www.caswellplating.com/rc-modeling.html
warbirdguyn951 is offline Find More Posts by warbirdguyn951
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Mar 24, 2012, 01:39 AM
Registered User
Jcopter's Avatar
United States, CA, Downey
Joined Jun 2005
1,834 Posts
I am in the middle of my build And I used the liquid MEK plastic model weld glue, works great and will not come apart, as it welds the plastic. Just put the pieces together and run a paint brush dipped in the glue and it will wick in to the areas and melt the parts together. Strong bond. I looked all over and took into consideration all the things the others had done and took the best of all to do my sub. I am now up to the WTC I just finished all the end caps and and getting to the innerds.
Later
Jcopter
Jcopter is offline Find More Posts by Jcopter
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 24, 2012, 01:56 AM
Registered User
Ladysmith Vancouver Island
Joined Feb 2008
577 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASCforithobbies View Post
If you want to build the Gato correctly contact this link below They will give you the right information and they have all the parts you will ever need for model submarines;
http://www.caswellplating.com/rc-modeling.html
+1 for D&E subdriver and fittings I'm working on a Type VII with all the D&E goodies ... even bought the Subdriver used from another board member, and still gotten all the help/service, etc etc as if I'd bought it new from D&E/Caswell ...

Due to sitting I discovered my subdriver cylinder set had developed leaks.. his solution was simple... I send it back in for a full rebuild (well minus the shipping to get it there) .. he sends it back.. I'm back on my merry way of getting Sub wet
Reckless is offline Find More Posts by Reckless
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 24, 2012, 04:20 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
United States, NJ, East Brunswick
Joined Nov 2008
1,378 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions. MEK plastic model weld glue will defiately work. I believe some of the stuff put out by Testors, which is what I have alwasy used on plastic models, has MEK in it. It dose the same job in melting the two peices together.

Reckless thanks for the info on the photoetched peices. I am not worried about the heat issue. Model would go from my house to an air conditioned car, to the lake where we set up under some shady trees to keep us cool all day. I usually turn the car on for a few minutes while packing stuff up so the air conditioner can cool it down, for mine and my models comfort.

Scott
laser110 is offline Find More Posts by laser110
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 26, 2012, 05:37 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
United States, NJ, East Brunswick
Joined Nov 2008
1,378 Posts
I decided that I would not build my Gato to go in the water. The pond we sail at is kinda murky, so sailing only a few feet from shore would be about all I could do. The only other opportunity I could sail and have a clear pool would be the WRAM Show, if they decide to have a pool again.

Building it as a highly detailed static model seems tthe way to go. I have seen several photoetched kits available including one by Eduard called the Big Ed kit. Anyone know what's in this? Do you have suggestion which PE kits to buy? The PE kit for the Conning Tower from White Ensign is also on my lsit as is the replacements for the properller guards.


Scott
laser110 is offline Find More Posts by laser110
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:10 AM
Jack
pjdog's Avatar
United States, FL, Hudson
Joined Feb 2010
389 Posts
I'll have to ditto that '+1 for D&E'.

I had bought a S/D for a type VII Revell build. My first boat. Did some things wrong and had to much strain on the port drive motor. David Merriman did a motor replacement at N/C for me and did it ASAP. I went on vacation in Florida and the motor failed again. David did another repair and sent me a spare motor ready for installation in case I screwed up the motor again. I found my problem and the S/D has been fine ever sense. SO My point is D&E are a class act for any one wanting a good S/D and RC Sub products. They stand behind there stuff.

I have Four Subs and all are powered with D&E products.

Jack
pjdog is offline Find More Posts by pjdog
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27, 2012, 02:52 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
448 Posts
Include me in the list of happy D&E wtc customers. That is what I have in my Gato. Also I am sad you will not make it a working sub, only because I know how fun and eye catching the Gato is in the water.
If you change your mind, we are here to help.
Peace,
Tom
tchalfant is offline Find More Posts by tchalfant
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27, 2012, 07:59 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
United States, NJ, East Brunswick
Joined Nov 2008
1,378 Posts
pjdog and tchalfant I am not seeing how your replies have anything to do with my question.

Scott
laser110 is offline Find More Posts by laser110
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27, 2012, 09:01 PM
Jack
pjdog's Avatar
United States, FL, Hudson
Joined Feb 2010
389 Posts
Question #1: I used plastic model cement and it worked fine.

Question #2: I have not used any used photo etched kits So the only advise I can provide is that I know expert submarine builders that say the weight is not an issue.

I responded to the D&E response from others because you said you may put your Gato in the water. D&E have proven stuff. I was responding to other posts that they used D&E stuff. I ditto that.

If you don't get your boat wet your questions are irrelevant.

jack
pjdog is offline Find More Posts by pjdog
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27, 2012, 11:52 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
448 Posts
I was just sharing, since pjdog mentioned he used the D&E wtc, I just chimed in that I did too. Just sharing, so I hope I did not offend for doing that. There was a thought that you were going to make this sub so it would get wet, I wanted to encourage you to take that step.
tchalfant is offline Find More Posts by tchalfant
Last edited by tchalfant; Jun 27, 2012 at 11:57 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:24 AM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
United States, NJ, East Brunswick
Joined Nov 2008
1,378 Posts
tchalfant - no worries I see where you picked up the conversation.
I have thought long and hard about building the boat so I can get it wet. In realirt I figure at min it will cost me $600 to do that. It doen't make sense to spend $600 for something that 99% of the time will sit on the shelf and look good. I also thought about if I build it to go int the water I need to leave off some of the small details, as they could easily be broken.

I would rather have highly detailed model that looks great in the shelf vs one that is marginally detailed and only goes in the water once or twice a year.

I saw the vidoe you posted and it loks great! If I had a pool, no doubt I would have done what you did.

pjdog- "you don't get your boat wet your questions are irrelevant"

If you want to be an A$$ that's ok, but please go do it another thread.


Scott
laser110 is offline Find More Posts by laser110
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 02, 2012, 07:12 PM
Shanghai'd Expat
herrmill's Avatar
Xiaoshan, China
Joined Jun 2006
4,624 Posts
Scott,

I still have 2 kits sitting in my stash along with the needed parts to make one into a diver but haven't gotten around to either. One will be USS Bowfin, a Balao class while the other a late version of USS Requin after her '50s fleet snorkel conversion.

Regarding PE, either Eduard or WEM set works fine but I have the Eduard complete set for my Bowfin project.

As you probably already know, there are several aftermarket sources for Gato conversion kits, flood & vent templates & accessories. My dealings with Mario Grima at IBS have been excellent & I highly recommend contacting him for any questions you have. Be sure to spend some time on their gallery page to see some of his work & others.

http://ibs.eastcoastarmory.com
http://nautilusmodels.com/GATO.htm
http://amp.rokket.biz/am_1_72_gato_sets.shtml

Great reference site:

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum...p?f=50&t=17356
herrmill is offline Find More Posts by herrmill
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 05, 2012, 05:05 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
United States, NJ, East Brunswick
Joined Nov 2008
1,378 Posts
Updated pics of my build. I am not building this as an R/C boat, which I know will annoy some here.

The photoetched deck plated have been added, along with some of the "extra's" that have to be put on top. I also added the supports to propeller guards. The gaps been the the guards and hull will not be filled with filler and sanded smooth.

Also started on the sail decking, which required I cut a piece off the deck to make it fit. This split the piece in two, but that shouldn't be an issue when it's installed.

Some pics to see the process. next I am going to lightly sand the hull sides, to make sure they are even. The sanding will also add some tooth for the glue so I can attach the hull plates..

Scott
laser110 is offline Find More Posts by laser110
Last edited by laser110; Dec 06, 2012 at 11:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Engel Akula and Revell Gato Rick227 Submarines 0 Jan 14, 2012 08:28 PM
Discussion Revell Proto Max parts question rcnutt Micro Helis 7 Dec 19, 2011 12:50 PM
Discussion Selling my Revell Gato project Steve2381 Submarines 0 Sep 22, 2011 06:50 PM
Sold Revel Gato + Merriman Sub Driver ir3 Boats (FS/W) 3 Sep 08, 2011 03:59 PM
Discussion is it wrong? revel gato motors my eyes hurt Submarines 1 Feb 10, 2010 06:45 PM