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Old Jan 27, 2013, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lent57 View Post
Can someone identify what the numbers 1 to 4 mean on attached pic. thanks
That's my pic.

1 & 2 = Positive PWM signal
3 & 4 = Negative PWM (same as motor connector)
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 05:22 PM
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Thanks Sb for your response and Pic. Also hookup for the 10amp HK esc, with Mini cp Rx is 1 or 2 is this correct and will this work on the new Super cp?

Len
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lent57 View Post
Thanks Sb for your response and Pic. Also hookup for the 10amp HK esc, with Mini cp Rx is 1 or 2 is this correct and will this work on the new Super cp?

Len
10A v2 ESC should be connected to 1 or 2 (depending where you find easier to solder to. I used both at different times).

I have no idea about the Super CP, sorry.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:42 AM
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Hello,

you can modify the HK 10A ESC to work at the motor pin of the Mini CP (so I am assuming it should work than also on the Super CP)

see my comment on the other "Oversky Mini CP ESC Thread"

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=92

you need to remove a resistor on the board and add one on the input signal pad.

and switch in the SW the input signal to negative.

Last but not least change the connectors, but no words on that.

so a easy mod, than you have exact the same config as the original Oversky Mini CP ESC (I have now both and can confirm that) which is from my point of view one of the best ESC


Regards

Wolfgang

PS: I am not responsible for any damages on your ESC... so it is up to you, but I can confirm the mod is working (just a legal statement to make the responsibility clear)
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasy666 View Post
Hello,

you can modify the HK 10A ESC to work at the motor pin of the Mini CP (so I am assuming it should work than also on the Super CP)

see my comment on the other "Oversky Mini CP ESC Thread"

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=92

you need to remove a resistor on the board and add one on the input signal pad.

and switch in the SW the input signal to negative.

Last but not least change the connectors, but no words on that.

so a easy mod, than you have exact the same config as the original Oversky Mini CP ESC (I have now both and can confirm that) which is from my point of view one o


Regards

Wolfgang

PS: I am not responsible for any damages on your ESC... so it is up to you, but I can confirm the mod is working (just a legal statement to make the responsibility clear)
Very good job Wolfgang
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:09 AM
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Thanks Wolfgang good job. What is the p/n for the add resistor and do you suggest a location or a link to the part. thanks again.

Len
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:49 AM
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Hello Len

you can take any 1k resistor you have, even the one you remove is a 1k, but it is a very small size, 0402 so very hard to solder, so I prefer some bigger parts, like 0603 or 0805 size

I used a 1k from a scrap cell phone I had in my waste box,

for a German user I would recomend such a dealer:
http://www.reichelt.de/SMD-0805-1-00...=0&OFFSET=500&

but shipping is more expensive than the part, so look for a scrap PCB and search for a 1k resistor:
normal they have this printed:
102
10B

Hope this helps
Rgds
Wolfgang
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasy666 View Post
Hello Len

you can take any 1k resistor you have, even the one you remove is a 1k, but it is a very small size, 0402 so very hard to solder, so I prefer some bigger parts, like 0603 or 0805 size

I used a 1k from a scrap cell phone I had in my waste box,

for a German user I would recomend such a dealer:
http://www.reichelt.de/SMD-0805-1-00...=0&OFFSET=500&

but shipping is more expensive than the part, so look for a scrap PCB and search for a 1k resistor:
normal they have this printed:
102
10B

Hope this helps
Rgds
Wolfgang
Thanks, yes this helps I have some scrap pcb's and other stuff laying around myself should be able to make something work. cheers
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 01:37 AM
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Help please?

Hi, what is different for V2? Also rc7 11 has brushless mini cp v2, its brushless 13000kv motor is the stock tail ok still for 3D?

I have mcpx brushless it has good power but the mini cp firmware for FBL is smoother and more precise.

I use my mini cp, but after 1 min power is down, i have good lipos and new motor, its just not enough power for me. thanks

Im wondering should i get the bl V2 mini cp or not bother?
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:27 AM
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Hi helicraze:

the big difference between the V1 and V2 BL Mini CP is only the Motor, the C05M has in the V1 11000kV and in the V2 13000kV.

I had also the 11000kV in my Mini CP and have got motor maybe at the same power as the stock motor, but you can fly longer since the motor don't has this temperature problem as the stock motor and you can fly a second batteries direct after the first.

the 13000kV motor should be more powerfull, unfortuantely my one got lost during the shipping and I got my HP05S 14000kV which is very powerfull... so no need for an C05m 13000kV

Since you lose power already after 1 minutes I am quite sure your LVC (Low Voltage Controller) on the RX is cutting down the power to early.

first I would check this issues:
1. are the batteries still good, perhaps get new HK Nanotech 300mAh 45C
2. sometimes the WK battery plugs are not really good and cause a higher resistance, so the RX cut of the voltage to early, I would recommend to change the connectors to better ones, like 2mm Gold plugs, or Microdeans (I got very light 2mm Gold plugs, 1 set has only 0,28g without heat shrink) so just a little bit heavier than the WK plugs.

If all that don't help, than you can only remove the LVC, that is a resistor on the top back of the RX board (need to be bridged), so you will lose the telemetry and the RX will not speed down if the battery gets empty, you need to have a timer or a good ESC (like the Oversky) which have a voltage check as well.

Some guys here don't like the bridging of the LVC, ok it is not the smartest solution, but I did it and have power to the end. I fly anyway with a timer and leave 15-20% capacity in the battery, so no need to fly the battery fully empty.

last but not lest the tail:
the 6mm motor is not powerfull for a 13000kV or stronger main motor, you have two options,

1. to just upgrade to a 7mm brushed motor with the holder and fin (you can find this in the HK store, very cheap search for that parts, the cheapest way to get a 7mm tail:
1x #9255000027/26600 Turnigy FBL100 Vertical Tail Fin
1x #9255000025/26598 Turnigy FBL100 Tail Case (2pcs/bag)
1x #9255000039/26612 Turnigy FBL100 Tail Motor

2. make a BL upgrade on the tail, but I have no experinece with that, I am happy with the HP05S and the 7mm burshed tail.

Hope that helps1
Rgds
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:53 AM
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Hi Crasy,

When you state that you leave 15%-20% of the battery, how much voltage is that?

I re-soldered my battery connector about 5 times now, still no difference. I got a new main board on the way to see if this will fix the battery issue. Can you show me which one is the LVC on the RX. I am not sure which part is the resistor on this tiny board, I am only use to the big resistor. I will try to bridge this before I change over to the new board.

Got about 15 battery now for this heli with the wk connector, so not keen to change the battery connector.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:40 AM
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to be honest, I don't messure it, I put it in my charger and see how man mAh a can re-charge, so I know if it was ok or not,

But let me messure it after the next flight, I don't have a telemetry since I bridged my LVC, so I will messure it direct after landing.

so if you have 15 batteries than I would say that at least the connectors on the battery aren't the issue, maybe the one on the RX. but it is more likely that it is the LVC, that is the small resistor on the top of the board:



with the German comment "Bauteil auslöten und durch Drahtbrücke ersetzen" so remove component and bridge it by a wire. I just soldered a thin wire over the part.

But you should be able to solder such small SMD parts, to not damage the PCB, this are really small, 0402 size I do it under the microskop with a professional soldering station.

So you do it at your own risk!

Rgds
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:12 AM
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Ok I did a short flight:

5:00 min, with HP05s 14000kV
Battery: Walkera 350mAh 25C Lipo
Voltage after unplugging: 3,72V
recharged 285mAh (in 62min with 300mAh)

so I had over 20% left in the battery if we assume a nominal total capacity of 350mAh and I had still power at the end (ok a Oversky ESC in Gov Mode, so the ESC keep the head speed constant)

you can't compare the power level over the battery discharge with the stocked brushed motor

btw. how hot is the motor? you need to cool the motor down after a battery otherwise it will power down even with a new battery (I had with the stock motor 45°C after 4 min flight at 90% trottle rate), so you can't fly permanent with one Heli, that was one reason why I switched to BL.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 02:37 PM
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I have no idea about the motor temperature as I have switched it to the Genius one without the probe. I have also disabled the telemetry as well a some say this might be the cause.

Thanks for the picture, I will try to bridge the two ends together and see how things goes. 3.72v seems ok as my Nano-tech 300mah is around 3.9v when the heli refuses to lift anymore.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasy666 View Post
...
so if you have 15 batteries than I would say that at least the connectors on the battery aren't the issue, maybe the one on the RX. but it is more likely that it is the LVC, that is the small resistor on the top of the board:
...
@ quaka: when you re-worked the wiring to the RX, what exactly did you do? Did you only rework the wires at the RX end, or did you rework the wires at both ends (i.e. at both the RX and Connector ends of the wires), or did you completely replace the wires and/or Connector?
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