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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:23 AM
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You can find several, excellent scales at most any kitchen/cooking supply store. Usually have wide, flat platforms, and the one I picked out does pounds/ounces, ounces or grams. It also does tare, so I can use it to mix epoxy and accurately determine delta weights. So, there's no excuse for not having a scale.

The variety was large. There were many color selections, some of them not good for guys (i.e., "mauve").

I got the fancy one, in black: $25

Yours, Greg
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Tiny update + Pictures of the cuted alierons:

I had some time free this evening and I started to work on the kit.
Sanded the wings blocks to fit inside the wings and sanded the wings tips.

Next I need to epoxy the blocks and wings halfs together and cover it with the
fiberglss cloth over the top and bottom of the wings joints.

Tomorrow I will buy 30 minutes epoxy because I dont have any which is the reason
I did not continue today.

Lets say I dont have anything in my house, what else should I buy to complete this kit, except the 30 min epoxy? CA glue is needed?
I know I need to buy tape hinge but enything else ?

Pictures as promesed:





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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:53 PM
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That aileron cut job is really clean!! Well played

30 min Epoxy, and foam safe medium CA, are the bare minimums.

Micro balloons are a smart thing to have....they are added to epoxy for thickening and weight saving when there are gaps to be filled/bridged....like your wing joint.

I also like shoe goo or some thing like it for gluing the servo tray and servos in, but you can use epoxy too, it's just harder to take back apart if something breaks.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Went to our local hobby store today and got the thing I needed accpet the hinge tape because they were lack of it, hope to find it tomorrw somewhere else so I could finish the kit this weekend.

Wanted to ask you something about the tail assembly.
In the manual it says to first glue the stabilizer mount piece of wook to the boom,
whta they dont say is how far from the end of the boom to glue it?
The skecht at the end shows the way to fit the rudder but how far forward from it should I mount the v-stab?
Also, what should I use to cut the boom's lenghwise cut for the rudder?

Here is pictures of the wing: -EDIT and the servo holes that I made.
as you can see I heated the knife and just melted the foam - it was very east that way.
The finish is not perfect, but I will improve it.
The result is nice and I earned myself another trashed knife =]
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 06:51 PM
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Mount the rudder first, that way you get a do-over if you mess up the slot. Slot is best made with a dermil cut-off wheel, I really don't know of another good way to do it.

Once the rudder is installed, the elevator should be about 1/4 -1/2 inch in front of the rudder. IMPORTANT... mount the horizontal stab to its pylon mount and then mount that assembled onto the boom. If you try to mount just the pylon you will end up crooked.
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 12:57 PM
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nOW THIS IS COOL!
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 04:28 PM
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What?
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 03:27 PM
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Spent a lot of hours on the kit today.
Wing tip reinforcment is done - I glued two layers for the provided fiber cloth - balance is perfect.

Tail is all really for installing the hornes - Nathan your advice to build the tail before
the boom conection to the pod is genius! I get it now that I have the kit, its much easier.

Ailerons hinged and the servos mounted in place and covered.

And the wing conected to the pod.

Things I have left to do is placing the servos in the pod (I have got a nice Balse block for the job - but suggestions would be appreciated), cuting the boom to ~590mm - its still ~620mm.

The interesting thing is this:
I placed all the electronics components (without the servos balsa mounting block) inside the pod, and the pushrods system with the tubes just to check the CG and its about 80mm behinde the front of the wing (dont know the term for it).

Looks like I wont have to add any additional weight for balancing.

Pictures tommorow =]
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 03:32 PM
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Wow. You are really building this fast!
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 08:48 PM
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For the servo tray....

If you are using epoxy to mount it to the fuse make sure to rough sand the fuse so you get a good bond. The nose of a DLG is under a tremendous side load during launch, especially with a NiMh battery in the nose; the servo tray actually serves as a reinforcement if it's fit well.

I prefer shoe goo for the job.... When the fuselage distorts during launch the shoe goo allows some flex while at the same time keeping the servo tray firmly in place. I have found that servo trays done with epoxy can break loose after a while. Also, if you have a servo issue or desire to change servo types the shoe goo is easy to cut free with an exacto blade.

Some guys use hot-glue, but beware; if you park it in the sun it will soften. Maybe OK with a pushrod system, but I have had hot-glued trays slip back from pull-spring tension.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 05:02 AM
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Hi there Nathan,
I have no idea what shoe goo is? some kind of glue? where can I get it?

What about the boom? what lenght should it be? the manual doesnt say.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 08:25 AM
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Shoe goo is an adhesive kinda like silicone sealer, but dries much firmer. It's intended to be smeared on worn shoe soles to give them a bit more life, so it's pretty darn tough stuff.

You should be able to get it at your local big-box (walmart, k-mart) store in the automotive/hardware area with the duct tape and glue. You could also try Walgreens or CVS or what ever pharmacy you have in the insole department.

It's not a necessity, so don't blow a bunch of gas money searching for it. Epoxy will hold fine for quite a while. A lot of us hobby types tend to have it around the house anyway.

As to the boom length, I base it mostly on the CG.
Most folks will agree that the stock length is on the long side, but more than 4 inches cut off is probably too short. So somewhere in between that and you should be fine. First test fit the boom and pod....if there is a lot of slop you probably want to take some off that end to tighten up the fit. Then you can visit the other end. Try making a rudder slot for practice, if it turns out good, leave it...If you think you can do better then lop that off and have another go. Within a range I find it really does not matter much outside of $1000 competition ships.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Last night I glued the balsa blocks for mounting the servos.
Everything is in place right now just need a little help.

I got the orange Rx 4ch fro HK - this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Receiver_.html

I obviously need to connect the second alierons servo to the throttle connection,
so my question is, how do I program the throttle channel to function only with the alierons mix so when I move the throttle stick nothing will happen? is it possible?

If not I also got the 6ch orange reciever so no worries.

Also,
how should I fix the battery and Rx so they dont nove around inside the pod?
Using sponge is okay?
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 12:28 PM
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mix ch6 to CH 3 and set the trainer setting to on on throttle
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 01:24 PM
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Okay I got everything work - alierons to throttle mix - for the alierons movment,
and flap to alierons+flap to throttle for the flap switch.

Now how do I make the throttle stick to stop function?
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