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Old Mar 31, 2012, 05:04 PM
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So if I undestood what you described it should look like that?




If so, how do I make the bevel?
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 08:21 PM
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HEY! There's that fancy diagram

The bevel is a sanding block job. You don't need the ailerons to be able to flex upward much more than 1/2 an inch, so sand just enough to get the job done.

With the tape on the bottom the flap will drop free to 90 degrees....not that your servo would move it that far. 45 degrees of flap will slow you down plenty.

Pull-pull is a little tricky the first time you set it up. The important factor to remember is that the control horn on the rudder MUST be of equal length on both sides from THE HINGE PIVOT POINT (not the center line of the rudder). If you are off more than a millimeter, when you move the rudder, one string will slack, while the other gets too tight....that will really piss your servos off. The arms of the servo and rudder must also be the same length.

And Eric....13 ounces is quite a nice result, congrats!!
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 11:13 PM
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Yeah! Any body who can do computer graphics like that should be able to put together a pretty nice DLG.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Schmoekel View Post
And Eric....13 ounces is quite a nice result, congrats!!
Thanks, but it wasn't long before it crept up to 14 ounces.

Eric
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 09:45 AM
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I dont understand where did you put another 100 grams?
with the electronicts and the kit it self I ended up with 282 grams (10oz).

Did you really use 100 more grams just for balancing?

Of curse every thing I say is just in theory I didnt built the glider yet just calculated
everything.

About the computer graphics,
It not that big deal, took me 3 minutes to make this one - did it because its easier for me
to understand, my English is not perfet yet.
But thanks :P
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Well, I as far as weight is concerned; you probably will need an ounce or so of lead in the nose, glue will run another ounce, acrylic and paint for the wings is another 1/3 ounce (if you are not careful). I think you will also find that the glider weighs more than is advertised. Weigh it when it arrives and let us know how much it is.

Eric
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Hi guys,

My package finally arrived today.
First thing I did was taking it to my workplace and CNC cutting the alierons, everything went well and very precise - I will upload some photos when I get home.

As I said before I have never built a glider before so would like to ask you,
what is the order of the assembly?

Should I just follow the instruction guide? or you can recommend a different
order for the assembly process?

BTW, I got my servos and bettery's as well, just wating for the reciever from HK(order placed at March 26th).

Daniel.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Cool, almost nothing is as exciting as getting a model airplane in the mail. I jealous of that CNC cutter. Before you get started weigh all the pieces, I'm curious to know what the kit weighs.

Eric
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Yeah the CNC laser is pretty cool tool.
I regret that I didnt video the cutting process - sure you would enjoy it - maybe next time.
Unfortunetly I dont have scales to weigh the kit \=
But it looks very light - tail parts feels really light as well as the pushrods - but of curse Im long way of beeing an expert so for now I cant really tell for sure.

What about the building procedure ?
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:39 AM
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As I remember the Hybrid came with a picture book with instructions. I'd just follow that.

NO SCALE?!? Dude, go get a cheap, digital postal scale. You can't build light if you don't know what things weigh.

Just kidding, but if you keep building you are going to want a decent scale. Even a cheap one will weigh down to a tenth of a gram.

Eric
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:46 AM
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I do a really odd thing with the tail boom that others may not agree with, but I like the options it gives me.

I mount the tails to the boom first, but I don't glue the boom to the pod till the wing is final mounted and all the gear is in the pod.

Reasons:
1: Working with just the boom makes it easier to square the tails to each other.

2: When you do glue the boom you can twist the tail group to match the wing angle...I often find that the wing will mount with one tip high compared to the wing saddle, so this way you can easily square the tail to the wing.

3: The boom can still be cut down at the last minute to move the CG. I mount everything in the pod, build and mount the wing, and lay the control rods in the boom..... then before I glue the boom I put it on the balancer and see where I'm at, I then still have the choice of shortening the boom if I am too tail heavy.

FYI the recommended CG is WAY forward. I forget what it was exactly, but I seem to remember ending up at least 8mm behind recommended. I also remember sanding the elevator stab after the test flights to re-set it to zero deflection in speed mode. Your handling preferences are bound to be different, but that's where I ended up.

One last thing... Take the rods out of the boom before you glue it so they don't get stuck inside.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Okay,
what about the few things you guys said to do differntly?
I'm talking about :
Making bottom alierons hinges instead of top ones?
Placing the alierons servos in the bottom of the wing instead on top?
And the dihadral angles that you did diffently?
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Yup, hinge from the bottom, for better flap travel.

Servos under is best so the airflow over the wing is as clean as possible. Linkage style is up to you, but if this is a first DLG doing a simple external pushrod is best because it's easy to change control horn lengths if you need to.

Dihedral angle is a personal preference thing. More makes the plane more stable in flight and more responsive to rudder input; but launches can be a bit more squirrely. Flatter dihedral launches straighter, but the plane needs aileron input to bank properly...rudder input alone will not bank the plane.

We measure dihedral with one wing flat on the bench and the other raised up....this is how you join the wing halves, the measurement is how high the wing tip is off the workbench. I prefer things on the flatter side 5.5inches is what I aim for, but most consider 6 to be pretty flat; 7inches is still OK, but beyond that only a rudder-elevator controlled plane might need more.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:25 AM
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Thanks Nathan, will do.

Another question,
I saw an old thread about the Hybrid-DL, the guy said to spread some CA of epoxy on the edge of the cuted alierons - Should I do that?
He said its importent for keeping moisture out.
And if we already talking about keeping the wing moisture free - If I only intend making few stripes on bottom of the wings, should I cover the whole wing with something to keep it dry?
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Covering the whole thing is heavy, and as we have touched on, this kit does not need help being overweight.

Sealing the gap would be most important if the gap was on the bottom and potentially in contact with wet grass.

The main thing I would worry about is that the wood is firmly attached to the foam core along the gap... loose skin will cause problems.

Warning- the following statement is me thinking out loud:
Now as to sealing these wings in general... I know that I will blow up a DLG wing in two years or less. I also am not going to fly in the rain. I guess my point is that to really truly seal these wings, way too much weight would be added; so if the coatings have to be kept that light, then they are barely (if at all) effective.... For a two year lifespan is it even worth sealing the wing?? ...food for thought.

Now...If I had one of the big Art Hobby gliders that might last 5-10 years then sealing the wood becomes more important to me.

Nate
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:57 AM
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The best thing you can do for viability is to color the underside of the wingtips a dark color. That also has the side benefit of sealing the wood against ground contact moisture...if you use paint or covering/sticker material. Not much more sealing is needed else where IMHO.
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