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Old Jul 22, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Gungho View Post
One thing to note, becos of the way stratair wires up the green multiplex plugs, power from battery to rx can only flow when u plug the nose In. The nose plug is also a switch.
Thanks for the pic, Gungho. Very helpful. Since my plugs are not-pre-wired, I will certainly not let the power from the battery to the Rx flow via the plug. This appears a bit risky to me - one slight issue with the nose cone fitting into the back-end plug and you run into a power failure.

Quote:
I must also warn you it is "fun" trying to Slide the whole assembly with the switch and the antenna wires into the back. I had to use a long stick and masking tape to hold the switch.
I could guess this already. Will need to send my family to the movies or so in order to have the time to figure this one out

BTW, I received the "finned" version of the 1515 from Stratair. It looks like your pic above, however the gearbox is directly mounted on the motor. It took me a while to fit it in. At the end I had to use the Dremel to flatten the fins in the front and to basically remove all the air inlets, otherwise this beast would not have fit. See some pics below. With the fins the diameter appers to be slightly increased compared to the non-finned, old version of the 1515.

One more question: Do you glue the big wing joiner into the fuse or do you leave this just loosely fitted in the fuse?

Thx Stephan
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 06:03 PM
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Your motor is slightly different from the one I have. Mine has the extended shaft that exposes the front cooling holes. Funny, my spare motor which I got a discount for from neumotors after my first non finned motor died looks just like yours. And yes, you have to shave off the cooling inlet for the motor to fit. If you had the extended shaft, you would not need to shave the inlet.

Do NOT glue the joiner into the fuse, just make sure you have a snug fit of the joiner into the wings. If you have to sand the joiner for it to fit into the wings, only sand the bottom or front of joiner.. Use calipers to measure the joiner and the wing opening to decide which surface to sand down..

Once assembled, the both wings, will grip the fuselage tight.. Than tape the wings onto the fuselage and you are good to go..
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 06:31 AM
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Thanks again.

@All - is there anyone elese in this forum building or flying this bird already?
After the glacerial time period I had to wait for mine there must be others as well
Cheers Stephan
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 08:03 AM
OTA
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Dont have but follows this thread with interest
Guess not many models out there as the price tag is kind of stiff.

Anyway, how is the nose cone/casette secured to the fuse ?
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Snug fit and 1 single 3mm bolt.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gungho View Post
Snug fit and 1 single 3mm bolt.
Interesting

Think the Hurricane deserves a 3 bladed prop though to give better bite and less prop stall
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Yes,

I have had to play around with the throttle ramps a bit. I now kick it into about 2000 W at the start and it slow peaks to 4500W on 7s. Im almost managed to get rid of the howl even at a slow entry speed. Still experimenting

The 3mm bolt is more than enough to take the thrust of the motor. Its the prop acceleration and brake that torques the nose. Therefore the design of the nose cone has a nice flat section on top and below for a positive engagement on the fuselage. That takes most of the torque load, not the 3mmm screw.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Hi Gungho,
which settings are you using on your YGE 200 for the 1515 Neu?

Mine is finally complete, and I will receive the batteries by this week. As you said, to get the RC equipment, antennas and switch into the fuse was really challenging
Best Stephan
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 10:23 PM
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These are my settings

I use futaba with throttle on a stick. Throttle goes from -100% to +100%

First thing you do is set the Throttle Off and Full Throttle position
After you plug in everything into the program card and the motor beeps at you, press the top left button to go to the very last row of the first page.Press botom left button until the LED lights on the same coloumn as "STOP". I use my throttle trim to set the value on the TX to be -80%, than press enter button and hear the beep. DOnt move the throttle stick yet. Return the trim back to -100%. Now push the stick forward all the way forward until the TX value reads 90%. Press the bottom left button of the prog card to select "Full Speed". Than press the Enter button and hear the beep. Now return the throttle stick back to -100%, push it up to +100% and return back to -100%.(All this is in the Prog Card Manual)

Now continue with the other settings

Throttle Stop- TX setting at -80%
Full Throttle - TX setting at +90%
Timing - 6 deg
Brake - Hard
Cutoff type - Off (Set throttle on timer on TX to 40 secs if using 7s 3300mah batteries, 30 secs if using 8s)
Now skip to next page of prog card by pressing both buttons on the left togther for about 2 secs and the LED will now blink, that indicates you are on page 2.

Startup speed - Plane Middle
PWM frequency - 10khz
Startup Power-16%

See attached unilog curve

Best Regards

Dennis
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Thanks Dennis.

I maidened mine today. In total I put on 4 flights. Weather conditions were unfortunately pretty bad, I flew in between rain showers and gusty winds of 30-45 km/h. But I coudn't wait any longer

This plane is a real beauty. First flight was a bit of trimming here and there, and then it was despite the wind pure fun flying.

I took first the RFM 18x19 F5B prop, along with 7s. This resulted in approx 4.6KW (~1sec throttle ramp). Good, but not thrilling. Next I tried the GM 18x23. Much better. Power went up to 6.3KW at pretty decent speed and climb rate.

You cant compare this plane with a F5B hotliner when it comes to sheer acceleration. But: overall arerodynamics in speed flight and duration/gliding are much, much better.

One log with the RFM 18x19 and one with the GM 18x23 attached.
This plane is worth the money!! Cant wait to fly it on 8s

Best Stephan
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Yes, What I like about her is not the acceleration and climb on 7s, nowhere close to a full F5B setup. But she handles like on rails and so you can do a little more maneuvers with her. She turns very nicely when you kick in a bit of rudder.

Choose a cool day to run 8s. Make sure you have good ventilation in the plane for the motor.

And tell your neighbors to hide because the sound that prop makes even scares the dogs......

Your logs show very little throttle ramp. But it makes for a nice impressive scary sound
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 05:36 PM
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Here is a video of my flights with an 8s setup.
First, with a RFM 18x19 7 Degrees, resulting in decent 6,5KW input and good performance.
Second with a GM 18x21, at whopping 8,2KW peak input. Much better performance, almost like an F5B setup.

This plane is amazing

Stratair Hurricane E (4 min 21 sec)
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 04:06 PM
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Nice How many seconds do get on that pack?
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 02:25 PM
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Nice How many seconds do get on that pack?
Thanks. Since I am flying this plane w/o a limiter its hard to tell. Usually I pull ca 1800-2200mAh.
Best Stephan
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 03:45 PM
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I think...this is what I'll focus on...was aiming for a ceres E but I think this is the one.
Please recommend where to get the model from...(Austria.?)
And motor plus all the rest?
Color choices?
Thanks George.
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