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Old Mar 19, 2012, 10:27 AM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
The deck is a lined plywood sheet which I will use to align 1000 planks of cherry. It seems like I'm fast but I am putting in a good 8 hours a day. With my planking method there is really no drying time, no soaking time. Just cut/sand the angle on the bow, run a glue bottle along the edge of the plank, and put a spot of CA on the front of the plank and a couple of frames. Place the plank on the hull and continue with the CA on the frames as you push the plank up against the previously attached plank..
Am getting ready to apply the fiberglass today after spending a full day yesterday at the pond racing FE boats. Got a first in the 700 hydro class which is not at all relevant to this build. jda
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:16 AM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
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First aint bad !
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 08:25 AM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
Back to the Emma C.
After giving the hull one last sanding with 220 grit paper and wiping it down with a tack cloth I was ready to fiberglass on Monday. Gathered the essentials, 3/4 once cloth, DIY resin and hardner, one of wife's plastic containers, scissors, stir stick, some Acetone and a rag (for cleaning up spills and hands) I was ready. Oh, also turned up the heat until it was 75 degrees in the shop. Glassed one side at a time. Laid the cloth over the hull and applied one coat, brushing it into the cloth. Let it get get slightly hard and then sanded off the excess cloth. Did other side of hull. That evening I mixed up another batch of resing and gave the entire hull a second coat. Next up...... a lot of sanding! jda
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 08:36 AM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
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What do you do about the "bubbles" that occur ?

I used 1 oz. on the MLB, these bubbles appeared from no where, not actually bubbles but small areas of the cloth that seemed to raise on there own as if there were inconsistencies in the weave of the cloth.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 11:41 AM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
Tim, I'm not an expert on FibGlassing, Hey, I'm not even good at it. On thing that helps me with air pockets is to start in the middle of the project and work from the center out with your brush. Some folks apparently use a sponge brush or a plastic credit card to spread the resin over the cloth. If you use too much pressure the cloth starts to move around on you. (done that) If you start at one end of the hull and work to the other you can end up with no cloth on the end you started on . (done that)
I had a couple of voids/air pockets near the keel that I poked with my knife tip and applied a bit more resin before it started to really set up.
As long as you are going to prime and paint later, my theory is "Sand away your errors." jda
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 12:57 PM
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great theme and title for a song.......
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
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No fair JDA...
I see you are in the 80's there ....
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 08:25 AM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
Shoot, I go further back than that.... STILL SANDING TODAY.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 09:53 AM
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Oakland Ca.
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I bet its the home made vanilla ice cream that keeps you going....
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 09:00 AM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
Well I only thought I had a smooth hull. Once the fiberglass dried there were serious peaks and valleys. So I shot a coat of Krylon primer on the hull in order to more clearly identify the problem areas. There are LOTS!
More sanding today and tomorrow..... and tomorrow..... jda
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 09:14 AM
Kraut
Dolores, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
1,583 Posts
I would wash the primer of and add a second coat of epoxi
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 11:25 AM
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Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
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Are any of the depressions so deep you plan to put filler in them, or just more and more glass cloth/epoxy/sanding until they are minimized ?
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 01:41 PM
Sport R/C Flyer/Sailer/Driver
United States, MS, Columbus
Joined Nov 2001
263 Posts
I'm one of the guys that uses the credit card method to fiberglassing. If interested in seeing how I do it, goto http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/t...4/Default.aspx and scroll down towards the bottom of page 5. Unfortunately, the link will takes you to page one of the thread and not page 5..

The advantage to using the credit card squegee method is removal of excess resin (less sanding and lighter weight) and pressing the cloth down against the surface (less/no void bubbles).
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 03:29 PM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
Thanks for the advice. Where I am. The cloth went on with the first coat of resin. When that had set up, I applied a second coat of resin. (didn't sand the first coat). Then I block sanded with 220 wet paper. I could tell there were plenty of hills and valleys but I couldn't see them very well because of the clear finish. That's when I decided to shoot a coat of primer. My fear is sanding through to the cloth. Worse yet to the balsa. Wet sanding balsa will cause it to swell.

It was suggested above that I wipe off the primer. Does that mean I can't just put another coat of resin over what is sanded down? Keep in mind I am using polyester resin, not two part epoxy. jda
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 03:38 PM
jda
Fossil builder
Tennessee
Joined Apr 2006
436 Posts
Mangus, After looking at your method I can see that my resin was thicker. ((maybe old) Will try West System next time around. You get what you pay for still applies. jda
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