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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
Sounds like you have the charger on the wrong setting. If it's a 3s pack, you have the charger on 2s mode.

You should be getting MUCH more than 8 minutes on a charge, my stadium truck gets 30 minutes on about half a 5000mah pack.
Trust me I have it on 3S 11.1v setting.

My battery is a 3800mah...when i started driving it was at 3.8v each cell...when car started dying i disconnected the battery and checked and it was at around 8 volts left still...but what i dont know is why my car is dying where is still 8volts of juice left on the battery.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 07:23 AM
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You drove it down to 8v total? You shouldn't ever discharge a lipo below 3.0v per cell (9v total on a 3s) under load. The resting voltage shouldn't be under 3.7v per cell.

Fully charged a lipo pack has 4.2v per cell, so your 3s should've been at 12.6v to start with. 3.8v per cell is almost dead to begin with. Did you charge the pack before using it?

Are you using the balance charge mode, or fast charge? Try balancing it to see if it will detect it as a 3s pack. With the balance tap plugged in, it *should* know that there is in fact 3 cells.

If not, you have to VERY carefully charge it as a nimh pack for a short time to bring the voltage up above 9v. Do that as a last resort though, and make sure you're sitting with the pack and take it off as soon as it gets above 9v.

Even if you do manage to revive the pack, it will likely have done some damage to it and might not last as long in the long run.

I thought you had a LVA, wasn't it going crazy with the pack discharged to that point?
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jsarwar469 View Post
.then i plugged it into the charger and after the charger scanned the battery on top right it says "R: 2ser" and top right says "S: 3ser"

What is that supposed to mean?
It means, when the lipo is connected that is what the charger sees.


R indicates cell count recognised by the charger
S indicates cell count selected by the user.

As for the lipo, well I'd maybe ditch or be very careful of it now
I'd set the alarm at 3.5V per cell if it's not set at that
reading manuals is good
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
You drove it down to 8v total? You shouldn't ever discharge a lipo below 3.0v per cell (9v total on a 3s) under load. The resting voltage shouldn't be under 3.7v per cell.

Fully charged a lipo pack has 4.2v per cell, so your 3s should've been at 12.6v to start with. 3.8v per cell is almost dead to begin with. Did you charge the pack before using it?

Are you using the balance charge mode, or fast charge? Try balancing it to see if it will detect it as a 3s pack. With the balance tap plugged in, it *should* know that there is in fact 3 cells.

If not, you have to VERY carefully charge it as a nimh pack for a short time to bring the voltage up above 9v. Do that as a last resort though, and make sure you're sitting with the pack and take it off as soon as it gets above 9v.

Even if you do manage to revive the pack, it will likely have done some damage to it and might not last as long in the long run.

I thought you had a LVA, wasn't it going crazy with the pack discharged to that point?
Well the damn alarm died after first time using it...cheap eBay stuff...and no I didn't fully charge the battery I thought 3.8 per cell is plenty of juice...drove it without the alarm and I was thinking to myself battery should last atleast 10 minutes...but car started dying after 8.

Battery started to show as 3s again...charges fine etc..I put it on storage mode since I have to order/pick up a working lipo alarm....really hope I didn't do serious damage to the battery.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:58 AM
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what was the voltage of the individual cells.
If your experienced with lipo, i'd say, see and check what it's like.
If your not experienced and ran it without charging it first, then maybe you should ditch it and read up then buy some new lipos.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by traxx de maxx View Post
what was the voltage of the individual cells.
If your experienced with lipo, i'd say, see and check what it's like.
If your not experienced and ran it without charging it first, then maybe you should ditch it and read up then buy some new lipos.
Im not too much experienced with lipos..this is my first pack...the individual cells started to show at 4.2 at max charge.

My younger sister crashed it into a side walk dead on the car was too fast...the chassis broke in the front...after fixing it by attaching a metal plate on the bottom its not a 4wd anymore....next day i crashed it into a commercial garbage tank and broke it again....this time the chassi is not fixable...I thought i blew out the ESC as well but actually the battery was just poorly connected. Everything works and in good condition except the chassis.

Anybody here can help me find a chassis for this? I've searched almost everywhere and having a very hard time finding one...

If i can find a chassis I will probably upgrade to brushless system with a 2s lipo...3s is too much to handle (should have listened to yo u all) lol. If I cant find one i'll probably going to part it out or sell the whole thing you needs extra parts...most of the parts are intact and perfectly fine...the chassis is the main thing damaged.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 02:51 PM
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A455 HPI Chassis. I think that's the chassis.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by traxx de maxx View Post
A455 HPI Chassis. I think that's the chassis.
I know the part number but I've searched everywhere for it except private forms. I highly doubt I will find one.
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 01:16 AM
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i seen them on amazon. I don't know how much different the nitro version is maybe that can be used with the help of a dremmel.
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 07:35 AM
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The nitro one looks a lot different, the electric one is a molded tub.

If the wheelbase is the same on both, and the bulkheads are the same on both then you could drill new holes where needed in the nitro chassis (assuming you don't need a hole in the middle of the cutouts for the engine) to attach the electric specific parts.
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 09:08 AM
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yep scratch that the plastic ones not available
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
The nitro one looks a lot different, the electric one is a molded tub.

If the wheelbase is the same on both, and the bulkheads are the same on both then you could drill new holes where needed in the nitro chassis (assuming you don't need a hole in the middle of the cutouts for the engine) to attach the electric specific parts.
I see the chassis on ebay too but youre right the electric one is much different.

Is THIS the one you guys are talking about?
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 05:53 AM
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thats the same pic i seen just different seller.
the plastic ones do seem very rare/ non existent. If parts break again you may struggle to find anything. You could contact HPI maybe the parts off this might fit on a different chassis with only a few parts needed to complete it.
Like my maxx, if that chassis breaks i'd have to buy the newer version with chassis braces and transmission, the front and rear will bolt straight on
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by traxx de maxx View Post
thats the same pic i seen just different seller.
the plastic ones do seem very rare/ non existent. If parts break again you may struggle to find anything. You could contact HPI maybe the parts off this might fit on a different chassis with only a few parts needed to complete it.
Like my maxx, if that chassis breaks i'd have to buy the newer version with chassis braces and transmission, the front and rear will bolt straight on
Yea I tried calling today they closed early. I sent them an email message I'll have to wait until Monday to hear from them. Also you're right if it breaks again its going to be very difficult to find parts for it...meanwhile i posted it up for sale as parts only on RC tech. If any of you guys need any of its parts let me know.

the chassis is broke and the front left axle broke right where the steering dog bone connects to the axle on the driver side. Everything else is intact and perfectly functional. I'll give someone a very nice deal on the whole thing. But if you need parts thats fine too. i dont have nay trader rep here but i can make ebay listings.... ebay ID: pinkraza786 100% feedback
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Yeah, that's the nitro chassis I was talking about.

IMO, you're better off getting something you can easily get parts for. Cars are much more fun to drive when you don't have to wait 2 months to get a part.
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