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Old May 07, 2012, 11:57 PM
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Well ran it today on a full charge and I'd say it went for a good 20 mins with the 24t pinion instead of the 27t...motor was hot, can't keep my finger on it for more than 5 secs...is that too hot?

I also have a aluminum idle gear...should I use that instead of steel?A
lso looking into the 5000 mah packs...

EDIT:

And on the VXL-3S the 3 motor wires are labeled on the motor and the ESC as "A, B, C"....when plugged in that order, reverse was faster/stronger than forward...so i switched 2 of the cables (A and B) and that fixed it...so even when its labeled, the forward/reverse can be misread by the ESC?? like whats the point of labeling the cables when it can still mess up like that lol...no big deal.

After reversing the A and B it was pretty fast...one of the rear tires came off lol, im sure the bolt was loose for sometime now.

EDIT: The lipos I have has a 2C charge rate....I never looked into how to calculate the charge rate so i've been charging these at 2A...after reading up on it it seems like 2C stands for 2 times capacity....

So pretty much for a 3800mah pack it'll be... 2 x 3.8 = 7.6 ....So I can charge it upto 7.6A? Is it safe to charge these at 4 - 5A?
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Old May 08, 2012, 03:03 AM
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yep thats right 2C,
2 x Capacity / 1000=
2Cx3800mah/1000=7.6A
and so on and so on.
I have 5C packs and once in a while i'll charge at 2C but 95% of time i stick to 1.5C. But maybe thats just me.
charging less, than the max charge rate won't do any harm.
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Old May 08, 2012, 07:40 AM
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I'd say that's bordering on too hot, I can only imagine how much hotter it was with the 27t pinion.

20 minutes from a 3800mah pack isn't bad at all, especially considering the gearing you're running.

I'm a little confused as to what you did with the wiring swap... Swapping two wires would change the rotation direction of the motor, so you would've had to swap them AND reverse the throttle channel to keep the motor spinning in the same direction when you pull the trigger.
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Old May 08, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
I also have a aluminum idle gear...should I use that instead of steel?
stick with steel, aluminum will be toast if you put it in. by putting the steel in you have upped your transmission to the vxl specs.
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Old May 08, 2012, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
I'd say that's bordering on too hot, I can only imagine how much hotter it was with the 27t pinion.

20 minutes from a 3800mah pack isn't bad at all, especially considering the gearing you're running.

I'm a little confused as to what you did with the wiring swap... Swapping two wires would change the rotation direction of the motor, so you would've had to swap them AND reverse the throttle channel to keep the motor spinning in the same direction when you pull the trigger.
Do you think running a steel idle gear and the big gear is also causing some heat? Cause I have ran 27 pinion before it felt so snappy and a great top speed....with the steel upgrades I didn't see many wheelies either.

Quote:
I'm a little confused as to what you did with the wiring swap... Swapping two wires would change the rotation direction of the motor, so you would've had to swap them AND reverse the throttle channel to keep the motor spinning in the same direction when you pull the trigger.
Sorry forgot to mention I switched it on the transmitter too.

Quote:
stick with steel, aluminum will be toast if you put it in.
And what do u mean by toast the gear?
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Old May 08, 2012, 05:10 PM
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the steel gears should not affect your speed at all. possibly noisy, but not slower. the aluminum is too soft and would be quickly chewed up. the wheelie thing could be related to how tight or not tight your slipper is/was. that would be easy to not have exactly the same.
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Old May 08, 2012, 06:15 PM
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the steel gears should not affect your speed at all. possibly noisy, but not slower. the aluminum is too soft and would be quickly chewed up. the wheelie thing could be related to how tight or not tight your slipper is/was. that would be easy to not have exactly the same.
It could've been the wire swap...i didnt figure it out until just a few mins before the lipo cut off kicked in...after swapping even at lower voltage the car was insanely fast/faster than full battery voltage.

I guess I'll keep the steel upgrades in...now i have one less thing to worry about which is stripping any gears...that only leaves out the spur gear which is still stock but with the reverse delay and the slipper clutch I dont think its going anywhere anytime soon....and btw I have the slipper clutch very tightened up but i'll check again when i decide to run it.

the 3rd cable on the motor is the sensor cable i take it?
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Old May 08, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Okay guys I'm gonna leave the Rustler aside for now but I wana share something with you guys...

The no-namer truck i picked up from ebay a month back and it was the tpet-1001 well it turns out it looks EXACTLY like the HSP Exceed RC trucks found on nitrorcx and stuff....like a 100% look alike and all the spare parts are shared between all of them...

here are a few pictures of mine...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...rtr-truck.html

And here is the NRCX exceed rc...

http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c803-savagreen-24ghz.html

When I was looking on nrcx I see that they also sell short course trucks that look exactly like my truck as well except with smaller rims/tires, single shocks instead of doubles, and a little longer/bigger front and rear bumper....So i'm thinking about picking up the short course truck tires/wheels, front and rear bumper, a short course truck body and convert it!

Here is the short course truck...

http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-stripeblue-24ghz.html

Should I perform a conversion? The short course truck verson of it looks much more appealing!!


EDIT:

All the parts that I need which are front and rear bumper, wheels and tires are here...

http://www.helipal.com/rc-car-spare-...hsp-rally.html

EXCEPT the body... I'm trying to find but its a bit difficult..,,
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jsarwar469 View Post
It could've been the wire swap...i didnt figure it out until just a few mins before the lipo cut off kicked in...after swapping even at lower voltage the car was insanely fast/faster than full battery voltage.
It sounds like it was running in reverse for forwards, even though traxxas claims it gives 100% power in forward and reverse I'm sure it actually gives way less in reverse. Now that you have forward as forward you're getting full power finally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsarwar469 View Post
I guess I'll keep the steel upgrades in...now i have one less thing to worry about which is stripping any gears...that only leaves out the spur gear which is still stock but with the reverse delay and the slipper clutch I dont think its going anywhere anytime soon....and btw I have the slipper clutch very tightened up but i'll check again when i decide to run it.
Don't run with the slipper fully locked, it should slip for a 3-5 feet but not more than that.

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Originally Posted by jsarwar469 View Post
the 3rd cable on the motor is the sensor cable i take it?
Nope, all three of the main wires are power wires. A sensor cable has a rectangle plug with 6 wires inside it. Brushless motors need three wires to have the ESC change the phase of the motor because they don't have brushes to do it mechanically.
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Old May 11, 2012, 08:15 PM
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Anyone know where to buy one of those bodies for the exceed rc rally edition (short course) truck? Or if any other body will fit? The link is in my earlier post.
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Old May 12, 2012, 03:34 AM
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one of what bodies, am sure there's lots of bodies will fit. Doesn't the 4x4 stampede have same wheelbase, not sure on width.
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Old May 12, 2012, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by traxx de maxx View Post
one of what bodies, am sure there's lots of bodies will fit. Doesn't the 4x4 stampede have same wheelbase, not sure on width.
I want to get a short course truck body...has to fit this truck...

http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-stripeblue-24ghz.html

any sc body that wiull fit that truck!
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Old May 12, 2012, 07:18 AM
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I'm not sure that normal shortcourse bodies will fit, this looks like they just put bigger bumpers on the 1/10th scale 4wd buggy and squished on a shrunken short course body. If you look, the wheel wells look like they cut both in more to shorten the wheelbase as well.

A Losi XXX-SCT (ROAR legal short course truck) has a wheelbase of 330mm (12.99"), the one in your link has a wheelbase of 275mm (10.8"), that's a really big difference. The width is also off too, the losi is 291mm vs 250mm. The overall length is the biggest difference, the losi is 550mm vs 400mm.

Your best bet is to take the truck to a local hobby store and see if they have any bodies on the shelf that will be close enough to work.
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Old May 12, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Redcat vortex body looks the same size and easier to find
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Old May 12, 2012, 10:19 AM
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it's amazing what google can find.
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