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Old Apr 01, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Jack the R's Avatar
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2dogrc has them, but not at the Nitroplanes price. Might as well get a Telink.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Canada, BC, Burnaby
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Tech One RC 4 Channel Aeolus Depron Kit (5 min 8 sec)


westwood's channel ---- http://www.youtube.com/user/9westwood9
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Last edited by Westwood; Apr 04, 2012 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:49 AM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
wolfewinde's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
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Looks like she flew well in some wind, Westwood. Thanks for posting that one

Wolfe
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intotheblu View Post
would love to try the swift or the yak by techone, where the heck can you possibly buy one .....
I bought mine from Epphobby, nothing but great service and free shipping for any orders over $100
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 10:31 AM
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I lost the tail wheel off of my Extra 330.What is a good replacement wheel? Also if you tighten the piece down on the servo arm with the set screw that pins the control rod ( sorry I don't know the name of this piece, is it clevice?) it causes binding. Do I need to upgrade my control arms or am I missing something. And I want to use hinges for my control surfaces, I already tore my rudder loose. What is a good product for this and why does everyone talk about blenderm instead of hinges? Wouldn't hinges be better?
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 03:53 PM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
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United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined May 2011
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The push rod connector should spin freely on the control horn that glues into the wing. The bolt nut that holds it on cannot be too tight, however, you MUST put a dab of CA or hot glue on the back of that nut/bolt so it does not fall off in flight. With that done, the servo should still move freely when you tighten the screw that secures the push rod itself.

I had one of those come loose on the Swift - even though I thought I had CA'd the bolt in place. Caused the elevator push rod to fall off - and then a crash. Repaired now, but lesson learned to make sure those push rod connectors are secure.

Just about any tail wheel will work, or you could just make a slit in the bottom of the fuse and glue in a short piece of popsickle stick or carbon fiber rod to make a tail skid.

Wolfe
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Oh, I put the z-bend on the control horn and put the little set screw deal on the servo arm. I am having problems with my rudder and elevator not wanting to re- center. I think I am going to try to find some ball and rod end stuff like is on my cheap heli. I can see the push rods flexing without any load.
I really liked that little foam wheel that was on there. Any idea on the diameter of it. I'm guessing 1/2". Not that I land too often anyway, but still...
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 04:40 PM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
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United States, FL, Clearwater
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I would think anything from 1/2 to 1 inch would work.

Wolfe
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:22 PM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
wolfewinde's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined May 2011
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Got in a few more flights on the Swift tonight in about 10 mph winds. She handled it very well. I really do like this airplane.

Wolfe
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 01:48 AM
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United States, PA
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfewinde View Post
The push rod connector should spin freely on the control horn that glues into the wing. The bolt nut that holds it on cannot be too tight, however, you MUST put a dab of CA or hot glue on the back of that nut/bolt so it does not fall off in flight. With that done, the servo should still move freely when you tighten the screw that secures the push rod itself.

I had one of those come loose on the Swift - even though I thought I had CA'd the bolt in place. Caused the elevator push rod to fall off - and then a crash. Repaired now, but lesson learned to make sure those push rod connectors are secure.

Just about any tail wheel will work, or you could just make a slit in the bottom of the fuse and glue in a short piece of popsickle stick or carbon fiber rod to make a tail skid.

Wolfe
Instead of CA, i use blue thread locker and IMO, it works better as its intended for metal to metal application
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:21 AM
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I like my Extra 330 but it is too big for backyard flying at my skill level. I am going to build a smaller model> are any of techone's smaller models as durable? I like the Malibu 2 for it's clean lines but I understand it is not EPP
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Also I have been wondering about boring some holes through the fuse to lose some weight. If I didn't go overboard and I put a skin of clear packing tape over it wouldn't this give the same result as milling? The fuselage seems a little bulky. I am also wanting to round off the underside of the fuse like the top is.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 11:35 AM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
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United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined May 2011
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I doubt that boring holes would make it enough lighter to make a significant difference. Best just to go with a smaller plane, even if it isn't EPP foam

Wolfe
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 05:00 AM
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Skittum, Depron planes are for people who don't crash. Depron breaks all over the place. Take a look at the EPP Mini-Breeze Pro. It won't fly in wind but it should do what you want on calm days.
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 12:36 PM
lawndart aerobatic ace!
gr8taz nitro's Avatar
Joplin, Misery
Joined Mar 2007
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Has anyone else got the 47" yak? I just finished building mine and so far I'm pretty impressed. I was looking for something inexpensive to fly that was big enough for me to see.

I set it up with an e-flite 480 1020kv, 45amp esc, and turnigy mg90s servos. I got a couple of 1300 3s 25c packs to fly it with, but with the heavier servos in the tail it won't balance without adding weight, or switching to my heavier TP 2250 packs.

Has anyone else got this one or flown it? What setup did you use?
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