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Old Oct 04, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dienson View Post
If I want to flip and rolls, you said need set them to 70 -75- even 85
this is set for Rudder or Aileron&Elevator ? in Stick Scalling ?
and how or what stick to do roll or flip, and special skill or secret need to know
thank alot
Unless you're doing some super-fancy acro (flips with a half twist or crazy stuff like that), rudder stick scaling doesn't factor into straight flips and rolls. I use A/E stick scaling at around 85 on the micro quad. My standard rudder stick scaling (not relevant here, but for reference) is around 100, but definitely adjust it to your preference.

Quite honestly, if you haven't figured out which sticks are needed to do a flip or a roll, then you probably shouldn't be trying them. Even so, this is how it's done (and it's really simple): get the quad out in front of you a decent distance away, but not so far you'll have trouble with orientation. 30 feet out with 25 feet or more of altitude is good. Really, the higher the better (more room to correct for your mistakes). Make sure you're trying it on a fresh battery. Give the quad a big throttle boost, then throttle nearly all the way down (but not full off - this is important!) once the quad is heading up at a decent rate. At the same time as you throttle back, pull your elevator stick all the way back. Keep low throttle and elevator full back until the quad has completed the back flip and then return the elevator stick to neutral when the quad is back to level and give it high throttle to recover.

Really, if you have enough altitude, the stock stick scaling values will work (A/E at 60), but you need a lot of altitude because it'll take a good while to come around and back to level. I flipped my micro with a kk1 board and stock firmware (not acro or ultra), but it took a while to pull it off. Trying flips over an area with tall grass or weeds is highly recommended!

Before you try flips, master nose-in and circuits / figure 8s. These demonstrate mastery of orientation so if something goes wrong when you're flipping you'll be more likely to recover. If you don't have a simulator and you're not confident in your flight skills, get one. I use Phoenix and it really helped me learn to fly smooth and consistent figure-8s and circuits.
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 11:29 AM
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I have been flipping my mqx for a while. Wondering if the pcb micro behaves similarly. Right now mines set up in + mode, will that make any difference for acro flight?
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 05:16 PM
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I can't compare it with a MQX since I've never flow one. Flip behavior is all about the stick scaling. More stick scaling makes it flip or roll faster.

I finally got around to rebuilding my micro; I set it up in plus configuration this time - no difference in behavior, just the orientation changes. And I reinforced the arms with 1.5mm CF rods. I have HK blueseries 12A ESCs on the way which I'll upgrade to simonk and fully de-case (remove shrink and heat spreader) before mounting to save weight - no more screeching!

I bumped the stick scaling up to 100 on A/E, 150 on R and applied +15% expo (reduced control rate toward the center) on A/E and -10% (increased) expo on R. This turned out to be a bit of a bad idea... the first time I tried a flip with full back stick I got at least 3 of them. A very hard "landing" resulted, thankfully straight down on the skids 90 on A/E turned out much better, along with 15% expo.

I've attached a photo of it - the red arm is the front. I've since removed the full-wrap velcro strap from the dome and used 2 small tabs on the sides.

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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:27 AM
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This morning I finished swapping my Plush 6 ESCs for HK Blueseries 12A ESCs with simonk firmware. With the shrink and head spreader removed from each of them, this results in 2.8g added per ESC assuming BEC wires aren't removed from the RX/FCB leads. I had BEC wires removed from 3 of my 4 Plush 6 ESCs previously and I didn't remove any from the BS 12A ESCs so I estimate I'm at around 15g of additional weight.

I bumped the gains up to P/I 100/50 for A, E, and R thanks to the simonk firmware. This seems to be the sweet spot for me as it develops a barely discernible high-speed oscillation at 120 and higher on the P-gain. So far it hovers very well indoors and is definitely more responsive. I'll take it outside later this morning and put it through some acro to see how it does - both in terms of a little more weight and ESC nfet temperature (since the heat spreaders are gone).

Perhaps the best part: all I hear is prop noise, no more shrieking
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:07 PM
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Here are a couple of photos of the new setup.

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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pbmax View Post
Here are a couple of photos of the new setup.

Attachment 5235786

Attachment 5235787
The batter is looking huge ...
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
The batter is looking huge ...
Perhaps I should take a photo of the micro quad next to the 3300mah 3s pack I fly my 450 quad with

The pack is a 1000mah turnigy nano-tech. I get good flight times and all sorts of acro performance. I flew the new setup outside for a bit in fairly windy conditions and it did just fine - no issues with static flips and rolls or FFF flips.

I have some 1300mah packs that I fly it with from time to time, but those are best for more sedate flight as it tends to try to fall out of the sky on quick transitions. I've even flown it with a 2000mah pack I don't recommend that...
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:51 PM
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I took the pcb micro out again,, still my best flying quad! Chickened out on the flips though. Need to find some tall grass.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pbmax View Post
Perhaps I should take a photo of the micro quad next to the 3300mah 3s pack I fly my 450 quad with

The pack is a 1000mah turnigy nano-tech. I get good flight times and all sorts of acro performance. I flew the new setup outside for a bit in fairly windy conditions and it did just fine - no issues with static flips and rolls or FFF flips.

I have some 1300mah packs that I fly it with from time to time, but those are best for more sedate flight as it tends to try to fall out of the sky on quick transitions. I've even flown it with a 2000mah pack I don't recommend that...
My 950 2s is looking much smaller ... so, maybe just a wrong visual impression
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:42 PM
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I just ordered the Turnigy integrated PCB quad kit, along with Turnigy Plush 10A esc's, the Turnigy 1811 3800kv motors, and the KK 2.0 board. Am I going to have issues with this set up? I did order a couple 800mah 2S 20C battery packs as well, with the 5030 props.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitrojunkee View Post
I just ordered the Turnigy integrated PCB quad kit, along with Turnigy Plush 10A esc's, the Turnigy 1811 3800kv motors, and the KK 2.0 board. Am I going to have issues with this set up? I did order a couple 800mah 2S 20C battery packs as well, with the 5030 props.
3800kv motor sound a bit too much for this, possibly you will get a short fly time

I dont get why people dont go 3s with a 2000kv 1811 motor ... it will better in many aspects , starting with no issue on having less the 5v on a bec ... and more efficiency
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
I dont get why people dont go 3s with a 2000kv 1811 motor ... it will better in many aspects , starting with no issue on having less the 5v on a bec ... and more efficiency
Probably because the recommended setup on the product page is the 1811 2900kv motors and this is an entry-level quad so most folks buy the recommended setup.

But really, it's because few people are anywhere near as awesome as you, e_lm_70.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pbmax View Post
Probably because the recommended setup on the product page is the 1811 2900kv motors and this is an entry-level quad so most folks buy the recommended setup.

But really, it's because few people are anywhere near as awesome as you, e_lm_70.
Do you think I'll run into any issues using these motors as opposed to the 2900kv 1811's? Are the battery packs I have coming sufficient do you think?
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitrojunkee View Post
Do you think I'll run into any issues using these motors as opposed to the 2900kv 1811's? Are the battery packs I have coming sufficient do you think?
The product page says the 3800kv 1811s draw 7A max and a review says they draw 8A full out. Regardless, 7A * 4 > (800mah * 20C). Granted, you're probably not going to be running them all out very often (if at all, depending on your flying style), but given that these motors suck more power and will hover at a lower throttle setting than the 2900s, I would say go with a bigger battery. As e_lm_70 mentions, it's important to avoid drawing the batteries down to the point where you disrupt the BEC and thereby interrupt power to the controller. A Turnigy nano-tech 1300mah 25C pack is a good place to start.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pbmax View Post
The product page says the 3800kv 1811s draw 7A max and a review says they draw 8A full out. Regardless, 7A * 4 > (800mah * 20C). Granted, you're probably not going to be running them all out very often (if at all, depending on your flying style), but given that these motors suck more power and will hover at a lower throttle setting than the 2900s, I would say go with a bigger battery. As e_lm_70 mentions, it's important to avoid drawing the batteries down to the point where you disrupt the BEC and thereby interrupt power to the controller. A Turnigy nano-tech 1300mah 25C pack is a good place to start.
OK. I'll grab some bigger batteries...Thank you for your response!
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