|Mar 06, 2012, 08:39 PM|
Joined Jul 2006
Quad Frame Assembly Instructions.
Although it is pretty straight forward to build this frame. These instructions may save a few people some headaches.
Tip: Look at all the pictures before you start assembling.
Note: The holes should be TIGHT this is to ensure the booms stay firmly in place and do not wiggle in their joints. If the holes are too tight then widen them with a needle file or a #34 drill.
Note: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NYLON SCREWS. They do not need to be much more than hand tight. Use a narrow handled screw driver to reduce the amount of torque you can put on them.
Note: It may be easier to attach the landing gear plates before putting the booms in the frame. Just plan ahead to ensure they will be where you want them.
Note: This frame uses 3/8" poplar booms. You can buy these at Lowes or Menards. They are $1 for a 3ft long piece.
1.) First of all we must first attach the battery plate to one of the center plates. You'll need 4 screws, 4 nuts, and the 4 four spacers. In this picture the battery is mounted for an X style quad. If you plan on building a + style quad then mount the battery plate 45 degrees from what is shown.
2.) Then you'll need to put the screws or standoffs in for your flight controller, unless you'll be using double sided foam tape. These are not included in the kit. The holes are drilled for 4-40 sized screws. As you will see there are holes to mount kk (45mm) boards and CC (30.5mm) boards, you can mount them in either the + or X configuration.
3.) Put in all the screws that will clamp the booms into the frames but leave them loose so you will be able to slide the booms in later.
4.) Cut the LONG piece of heat shrink into 1.25 " pieces. Cut 8 of them, 4 are for the side of the boom that will be inserted into the frame the other 4 are for the motor side.
5.) Shrink the 1.25" pieces of heat shrink onto the end of each boom, let the heat shrink overlap the end of the boom slightly so that it will fold in a bit, see the picture below. Carefully Insert the booms, heat shrink side first, these will be a tight fit as they should be. The heat shrink helps keep them tight and gives them extra grip. Carefully tighten all of the screws and trim them flush with wire cutters.
6.) Attach the standoffs and the protector plate. It does not matter which way you attach the standoffs to the frame. I prefer to bolt the standoffs to the frame and then screw the protector plate to the top of the standoffs. The screws will have to be trimmed to have about 3/16" of thread left on them.
7.) Attach the landing gear. Cut a piece of heat shrink (from the short piece included) the same width of the landing gear plate and shrink it on the boom where you want the landing gear to be. The heat shrink will help keep it tight and again give it some more grip. Put the "knots" of the zip ties on opposite sides of each other. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to help pull them tight. If done correctly they should not wiggle or move at all.
8.) If you choose to use the supplied motor mounts they come with standard 16mm and 19mm spacing which should accommodate most motors. The bottom clamping plates are slotted to work with both 16mm and 19mm spacing. You will have to drill the booms yourself. The pictures show how the motor mounts should work. If you are afraid of the wood splitting (which shouldn't be a problem if you use a good sharp drill bit) then shrink the other 1.25" pieces of heat shrink over the end before drilling and mounting.
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|Mar 06, 2012, 09:51 PM|
Joined Jul 2006
I use 3/8" solid poplar arms. I've got several people interested in them. I am getting more G10 in this week I'd be happy to make one for you if you'd like. For now they are $25 shipped ConUS. That is until I run out of my nylon hardware. Then I'll have to charge a bit more. I came across a lot of nylon hardware on amazon for $1 per 100 hundred pieces. Once that is gone it will cost almost 6 times as much for the same hardware. But until then I'll pass my savings on to everyone.
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