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Old May 24, 2012, 06:44 AM
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Lift and drive motors in place. 3mm silver steel drive shaft supported in the middle with a thrust bearing and at the prop end with a normal bearing. The bearings are fixed within Mahogany 'sandwiches'. The second pic shows the removable cover allowing access to the motor. Still to install is the cowling from the centre bearing to the prop which will be fixed in place. The lift prop is 8*4 cut down to 6" diameter.

Painting largely finished. I have opted for dark grey rather than black as I think it makes a less harsh contrast with the body colour (Halfords Peugeot Seville) and is maybe more like dirty or faded black on the prototype. At the moment it is a matt colour but I may seal it with a satin varnish. The windows will be glazed with acetate. Next job is to install the RC hardware on the cabin floor.

Hope to see more progress pics from Pitpup and Chris - also from anyone else who has built or is building the SR.N6.
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Old May 24, 2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JeremyBB View Post
Lift and drive motors in place. 3mm silver steel drive shaft supported in the middle with a thrust bearing and at the prop end with a normal bearing. The bearings are fixed within Mahogany 'sandwiches'. The second pic shows the removable cover allowing access to the motor. Still to install is the cowling from the centre bearing to the prop which will be fixed in place. The lift prop is 8*4 cut down to 6" diameter.

Painting largely finished. I have opted for dark grey rather than black as I think it makes a less harsh contrast with the body colour (Halfords Peugeot Seville) and is maybe more like dirty or faded black on the prototype. At the moment it is a matt colour but I may seal it with a satin varnish. The windows will be glazed with acetate. Next job is to install the RC hardware on the cabin floor.

Hope to see more progress pics from Pitpup and Chris - also from anyone else who has built or is building the SR.N6.
Looking good Jeremy, here a couple of pics of mine to date, not as quick progress as yourself but moving along though. Looking forward to seeing yours with the skirt on.
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 09:45 AM
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Anyone got a skirt fitted yet, get them pics posted if you have guys.
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Srn6

Jermey that looks fab keep up the good work I did make an SRN6 MK1S what would you like to know about attching the skirt ?
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Jermey that looks fab keep up the good work I did make an SRN6 MK1S what would you like to know about attching the skirt ?
Tim, any advice on attaching the skirt would be welcome! The skirt has sufficient overlap for using duvet poppers on the inside if I want to use them - as Keith Blaber did on his SR.N6. Glue or double sided tape for the outside (or inside and outside) are options. Advice on the best types (brands) to use would be helpful.

I will wait to attach the skirt till the model is complete, not quite ready yet.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Skirts

i would not use the quilt poppers for you model i would use double sided tape and duct tape.Make sure the skirt attchment point on the side decks is clean and a trip to B&Q is required they do some double sided tape thats about 2 inch wide and the peel off backing is a dull yellow this stuff really sticks well make may even be duct.I would also put some on the base of the model as well then add duct tape as well
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 05:06 PM
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i would not use the quilt poppers for you model i would use double sided tape and duct tape.Make sure the skirt attchment point on the side decks is clean and a trip to B&Q is required they do some double sided tape thats about 2 inch wide and the peel off backing is a dull yellow this stuff really sticks well make may even be duct.I would also put some on the base of the model as well then add duct tape as well
Tim - thanks for that. I understand how the double sided tape would be used. However, where do you then put the duct tape ? Is it only for the inner attachment?
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Old Jun 03, 2012, 10:03 AM
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the duct tape is used on the base of the model is use double sided tape as well though as i can skit it on the base stick the skirt on then apply duct tape over the top
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Old Jun 06, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Tim - B&Q do two types of double sided tape: a bonding tape with cyano glue - one fitted, never comes off?; and a normal carpet fixing tape.
http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/decorat...and-B%5Cu0026Q
Which do you recommend I use?
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 01:39 PM
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double sided tape

hi Jeremy

have a look at http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/decorat...-L-10m-9254486

this it what i use

Tim
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 01:39 PM
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Jeremy, I personally wouldn't use DIY type tape as it generally performs poorly (but I certainly would stay away from the cyano tape). If you can get it, Venture tape is excellent - very sticky and generally water resistant, or Scotch do a pretty good version. I'm also not convinced you need it on the underside - I've always just used the duct tape. Make sure, however, that the underside that you are sticking the skirt to is well varnished and smooth - this will make whatever tape you use stick better and last longer in the water.
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Thanks for the advice on fixing the skirt.

Nearly there now. Electrics in place and they seem to work. The car ESC allows for reversing the drive prop which may well come in handy. Next step is to cover the gap behind the cabin - left off so far to facilitate wiring the motors. Then glazing the windows, adding the decals and finally the skirt.

Total weight is 1.75Kg, well below the 2.4Kg of Mark Porter's SR.N5, helped by much lighter motors and batteries. Hopefully my tiny brushless motor, 1370Kv, max power 180 watts, coupled to the two bladed 8*4 prop cut down to 6", will be able to lift the craft. We shall soon see!
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 10:19 AM
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It's certainly looking the business, and good job on keeping the weight down - will certainly help with the performance. If you are using non-marine electronics, make sure you waterproof them properly. Either wrap them in a balloon with bands on the ends where the wires exit (though I don't think you can do that with the car ESC as it has a fan), or use a non-corrosive silicon sealant to seal all the gaps/ joins/ holes (note, DIY silicone sealant is not suitable as it has acid in it which will eat away at the metal of the electronic components - the only readily available place I know that does electronic safe sealant is Maplins). Alternatively if you can house your electronics inside a watertight plastic box with grommets around the wire exits, this would probably be better still.
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Old Jun 15, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Maiden Voyage

First trials on a swimming pool in very blustery weather. Lift thrust more than enough - about 2/3rds throttle used in the pic. The skirt inflated more than shown under full power. Hovercraft blown all over the place, going round in circles when no forward thrust was applied. I plan to double the size of the rudders with acetate extensions to try to get a bit more control. I am still concerned that the double sided tape will not hold along the outer fixing. No problem with the inner fixing which is reinforced with duct tape.
I used a tape from tapes direct, supposed to be of very high strength.
http://www.tapes-direct.co.uk/index....roducts_id=970
It still peels easily off the wood if pulled along its length although, as the force when inflated is lateral, it seems to hold OK. Maybe I should try the carpet tape suggested by Tim. If there was a double sided tape with the grap characteristics of duct tape, that would be ideal. I spoke to 3M technical support who were reluctant to recommend any of their range. I do not want to lose my skirt in mid lake:eek :.
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Old Jun 15, 2012, 12:23 PM
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The key to getting the double sided tape to work is having a good surface to stick to. Even the stickiest tape won't work if the surface is porous or rough. It's highly unlikely you'd lose the skirt - most likely it'll come away at a certain point and leak air severely deflating the skirt; if this happens you should still have enough umph to bring it back to shore.
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