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Old Apr 26, 2012, 06:54 PM
Do it AGAIN! This time BETTER!
ThermalThief's Avatar
WA
Joined Jan 2005
481 Posts
Nice work Ken!

All your servo's are going in the pod?

Can't wait to hear your flight reports.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 09:55 AM
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xwingnut's Avatar
The Great NorthWest
Joined May 2007
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I am going to try 3 in the pod. 180g as it currently sits in that last picture and the CG is about mid-point of the flaperons. Thomas does know his plane and with the 285's up front it should put the CG right about where it needs to be. Have batts on-hand ranging from 14g to 28.8g plus altimeters and switch-jacks in the 6g range so by moving the components around in the pod I'm hoping for proper CG placement w/o requiring any ballast. The R6203sb receiver will also be up in the pod.

Encountered a minor issue with the forward screw in the pylon being angled off to the right a few degrees. With a bit of careful shimming and re-drilling of the H-Stab's forward hole at an angle it seems to be holding the stab right where it needs to be.

Does anyone have a source for Nylon M3-.50 pan-head screws? Can find slotted on the Net but would prefer star for Phillips drivers. Able to get a better bite on those and there's less chance of the driver slipping off and stabbing holes in surfaces.

Ken
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:18 AM
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United States, SC, Mt Pleasant
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My plane is nearing completion. Battery is cycling, servos installed and wire harness made up. Just need to install the peg and finish up a few odds and ends! I'll post some pics tomorrow.

James
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:33 AM
Do it AGAIN! This time BETTER!
ThermalThief's Avatar
WA
Joined Jan 2005
481 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by xwingnut View Post

Does anyone have a source for Nylon M3-.50 pan-head screws? Can find slotted on the Net but would prefer star for Phillips drivers. Able to get a better bite on those and there's less chance of the driver slipping off and stabbing holes in surfaces.

Ken
Give this a shot. M3 and more!

http://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Machine-...5540606&sr=1-8
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:03 PM
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Seattle, WA
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Stoneway Hardware in Seattle has had a good supply of nylon screws.
Ray
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:59 PM
Team Hong Kong F3K
ThomasLee's Avatar
Hong Kong
Joined Sep 2010
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Great looking progress guys!
Looks like they're all about the hit the air soon

Thanks for pointing out the hole issue Ken, I'll take a look at our new fuselages once I get back to make sure no more stray angles.
Good tip on the hex screws, I will try to order some of those next time once we run out of our first couple hundred I ordered :P
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Veradale, WA
Joined Jun 2007
59 Posts
I must be slow building (or something called work keeps getting in the way).

Thanks for the pictures on the pull-pull setup. On my current model, I just tied the string to the servo arm and the control horn. I put a notch in the control horn so I could take the stab off. On one launch, the string came off giving it full up. Was lucky it came down softly. Still need to fix it so deos not happen again.

Added epoxy to the center joint of the wings to lock the spars in. Tghought about that originally but never did it. Got the joint fiberglassed. Also notched the fin and fuse. Once the wings are dry, will glue the fin in so it is nice and straight.

Fuselage to narrow for 802 servos so will use a Graupner/JR DS-281 servo I have. Not sure how it comapares to the 285 servo.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:08 PM
Team Hong Kong F3K
ThomasLee's Avatar
Hong Kong
Joined Sep 2010
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D'oh!

I was just going through the photos again and realized I did not include the 2 small squares of glass for the vertical to boom joining!

PLEASE remember to join the vertical to the boom using a small piece of glass or carbon. If you don't have some on you, let me know, and I'll throw some in the mail on Monday.

All future kits will have those included, sorry about that guys!
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:24 PM
Will fly for food
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Bellevue WA,
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I would think it is better to have the boom cover over the two spars in the vertical fin. If you have just the boom notched I would also notch the fin to allow the end of the boom to get to the back spar so when you glass over it, it ties the forces from the fin to the boom.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:31 PM
Team Hong Kong F3K
ThomasLee's Avatar
Hong Kong
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It will only be able to cover the front spar, pushing it any more forward will interfere with the stab, unfortunately.

Once the fuse is tied into the front spar, it's not going to go anyway

If really wanted to, instead of using a piece of glass on either side, you can use a piece of carbon cloth and extend that one to the 2nd spars. That will probably be bulletproof in exchange for a couple tenths of a gram
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:32 PM
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjensen View Post
I would think it is better to have the boom cover over the two spars in the vertical fin. If you have just the boom notched I would also notch the fin to allow the end of the boom to get to the back spar so when you glass over it, it ties the forces from the fin to the boom.
You're probably right. However, I've installed two verticals so far and just notched the fin back as far as the spar without notching the boom and never had one fail on me. I'm not a monster thrower, though.

Brandon
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 08:38 PM
Will fly for food
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Bellevue WA,
Joined Dec 2003
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Oops forgot about the fixed stab mount
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:14 PM
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The Great NorthWest
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Thanks Ray and Ken for the bolt sources. Also need to extend a thank you to Dave B. and David J. for the help and advice last weekend at Eagle. I'm grateful to be in such knowledgeable company and appreciate your help!

Back to the task at hand. I incorporated Thomas's toothpick anchor idea for the elevator spring. Didn't have any hollow toothpicks so I carefully drilled a few end pieces then epoxied them in place. Control horn is also installed and ready for line.
The glass patches were applied to the rudder but it's difficult to see the one in the picture.

Ken
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 09:51 AM
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The Great NorthWest
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Hooked up the pull string for the elevator before crashing out last night. That's a slick program and I do believe I'll be doing that on all future DLG builds.
With all radio gear in place (two servos not yet glued), carbon rods for flaperons, a 300mAh NiMh pack (need the nose weight), R6203SB and less glue for blade the AUW is right at 250g. If I don't accidentally knock over the glue bottle into the fuse, the finish weight should easily be under 265g.

Thomas,
When you are putting in the extra material for the rudder reinforcement would you consider adding a bit of extra for the blade. I know I like to add that to the blade area for extra strength and suspect others do as well.
Also, put me on the list for a C/F D-box wing. Want to try pairing up your wing with Seba's tail surfaces and build it with a full-flying H-stab and rudder. Have a fuse on-hand that will accommodate the V-mount.

Looks like the weather is decent for flying so no building today. More than likely it'll be Monday evening before it's finished.
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