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Old Mar 04, 2012, 12:29 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
Unrelated to the paint, that hatch looks like a bit of a PITA to tape down... Are you planning on running a flat sub hatch to make life easier?
I had been thinking about that myself. If you look at the 2nd photo in post 1 it does have a nice little recess lip that I was planning to do a sub hatch on top of. Just have to get some plexi big enough and cut it to the right size.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 12:56 PM
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United States, CT, Manchester
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Bill just wondering do you use a air brush to paint your boats?
HR
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 01:02 PM
I feel the need for speed!
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Southern U.S.
Joined Jun 2008
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Originally Posted by bill34207 View Post
Not a bad price but it would need free shipping to get my seal of approval
Just lookin out for you ol' buddy!!
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 03:10 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
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Originally Posted by hotrodder View Post
Bill just wondering do you use a air brush to paint your boats?
HR
I use Rustoleum enamel in rattle cans and have had really good luck with it until this one.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 03:20 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
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Anyways... I went ahead and put the hardware back on the boat to fill up the holes in the transom. Packed the nose of it full of high density foam then started laying items in it to get an idea of where it's going to need to go.

I'm having a heck of a time getting the balance point on this one where I want it. It's wanting to be nose heavy even with the motor (had a spare "dead" 1521 on my shelf) back to about 4" off the transom and the batteries lined up on the sides of it. I can barely get 30% there.

Hmmm looks like RCG is having some issues with file attachments right now. Every time I try to upload it come up with: "Error 500: Internal server error"
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 03:25 PM
I feel the need for speed!
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Can you move the motor position back? You are probably aiming for 28% or so?
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 04:06 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
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Originally Posted by scorpion1 View Post
Can you move the motor position back? You are probably aiming for 28% or so?
I was wanting 28 but may have to settle for 30 or run an rx pack in the back of the boat. If the server issues will get fixed I have some pix. I was a little off on my guess earlier. (went back and measured) the face of the motor was actually 5" off the transom. I'd have trouble getting it back another inch after factoring in the coupler.
I could get the packs back further but it would mean putting them high on the sides to clear the steering.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 06:14 PM
I feel the need for speed!
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Southern U.S.
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Maybe at 30% and less tabs with a bit of pos. stinger it would plane out well.............I bet it would, 30% is really not a bad COG for that hull i would imagine. Plus in the rougher water of a race it could help you.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 07:10 AM
I feel the need for speed!
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Man...............is the front of the hull made of lead? Thats farther back than i've ever seen innards to get to 28%.............. Hmmmmmmmmmm?
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 07:23 AM
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Bradenton, Florida
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It's not made of lead but the front is a large cavern. I could probably get it ligher by removing the flotation foam that's packed in there. It's really wide and deep in the front. Volume wise it probably held as much foam as my 47" mono.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 07:34 AM
I feel the need for speed!
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Well just run her first at 30% and tune it there........................it may work fine. Good lookin boat.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 09:30 AM
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Bradenton, Florida
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Maybe my math is off or something. I measured the hull and it comes in at 33-3/4" so I've been calling it 34.
34 x .30 = 10.2" or 34 x .28 = 9.52" I think that's right isn't it?
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Palma Sola,Fla.
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Bill - on your steering linkage problem,

would it lessen the angle if you put the swivel on the bottom of the arm, or would it be the same problem in reverse?
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Bradenton, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osprey21 View Post
Bill - on your steering linkage problem,

would it lessen the angle if you put the swivel on the bottom of the arm, or would it be the same problem in reverse?
It would be a mirror image of what it is now. Speedmasters are the same way. Seems like almost every rudder maker out there puts the tiller arm in line with where the mounting bracket wants the linkage to come through.
If it was a small hole in the arm I'd be tempted to do it like I usually do the Speedmasters. Just put a 90* bend and a wheel collar to hold it in place.
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