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Old Mar 29, 2012, 11:55 AM
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I went on http://www.rustoleum.ca website and didn't found the clear coat you talk in the plans
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Philadelphia, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikewheel View Post
I went on http://www.rustoleum.ca website and didn't found the clear coat you talk in the plans
Hmmm... I got it from Home Depot. I suppose any outdoor rated clear protective spray coat would work. You have to be very careful with how you put it on though because it will melt and ebearers foam.
I'm I'm the process of Putting together a "shopping list" - hopefully I will have it completed tonight.

I'm also going to do a second build of this plane using The new Model Plane Foam. It is kind of like a nicer 6mm version of the 5mm dollar tree foam that I used for the original. I will use the same building and finishing process but I will scale the model up to 48" or 52" wingspan.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 01:18 PM
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Roxboro, NC
Joined Dec 2005
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Great looking model! Can't wait to see the scaled up version. Are you also going to redraw the plans for the scaled up version and MPF?
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Cool Snice I have the MPF so if you make plans I might just have to build this plane.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTwilight View Post
Great looking model! Can't wait to see the scaled up version. Are you also going to redraw the plans for the scaled up version and MPF?
Thanks! I will definitely redraw the plans! It will be more of a resize and rearrange project to fit 36" wide paper. On the original plan, the foam thickness is 5mm (Dollar Tree Foam).... when I rescaled the slot thicknesses to 6mm (Model Plane Foam), the wingspan increased to 48" exactly. I think the slot thicknesses will still be OK if I go up to 52" ws. Also, at 52", it would be almost the same size as the parkzone Icon (52.5")....might be able to use the parkzone landing gear! I think I would also be able to scratch build it at a lighter wingloading with a more powerful motor than the parkzone model....
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 10:55 PM
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Shopping List & Finishing technique

The items pictured below are the extra construction and finishing items that I used to complete the prototype model (the one in the videos).

A note on the finish: Here is what i did.

After completing the airframe, I followed Freddie B's finishing techniqie.
In short:
- I filled holes with a mixture of lightweight and clear water based polycrylic; sanded down
- Painted entire airframe with a mixture or water, baby powder, lightweight spackle, clear polycrylic, and a few drops of paint. Sanded again -- the model now smells baby fresh!
- Then I painted on 2 light coats of white acrylic craft paint thinned with a bit of water.
- Next - painted red & grey trim areas. Let everything dry Applied decals.
- Painted entire model with the clear water Based polycrilic. This gave the model a nice, "protective" shine - you still have to be careful because the foam can still be dented.
- Next, I added an extra coat of clear polycrylic to the hull and nose of the airframe. After this dried, I sprayed on a few VERY light coats of the Rustoleum clear coat protective finish - only on the Hull and nose of the airframe. It will eat the foam so you have to be very careful when putting it on.

...So... after all of the above, I did achieve a waterproof hull. BUT -- it still takes a lot of abuse sliding around on the ground. I may try adding a layer of packing tape to the bottom and then spraying the clear coat over that to seal the edges ( I cover the bottoms of most of my belly sliders with Packing tape).

The finishing proceds did add some weight but the model still handles very well.

The way I tested the waterproofing was to weigh the model. I then put it in a tub of water for several minutes, took it out and weighed it again. I then repeated the above process, but weighed her again after an intense water "taxi". If she is watertight, there should be 0 weight gain (after water drips off bottom of model).

This is what worked for me, but please share other methods you may have to waterproof the hull!

Control Rods:
Dubro 30" Micro pushrod system (rudder & elevator) - http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...5.0.0.0?pp=12&
Sullivan Light Weight Control rod (ailerons) #S587 - http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm

Flaps - bent .039" (approx) music wire inserted into small nylon tube (or anything it can freely rotate in). Flap control rod linkages (joints) are made with heat shrink tubing.

Control Horns are made using cut up hotel keys.
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 01:32 PM
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Roxboro, NC
Joined Dec 2005
266 Posts
The larger should be able to handle the weight of the waterproofing and paint much better than the current one. Can't wait to see your finished larger A5! Good Luck!

Now I have another plane to add to my list of planes to build from my box of MPF!
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNice View Post
The items pictured below are the extra construction and finishing items that I used to complete the prototype model (the one in the videos).

A note on the finish: Here is what i did.

After completing the airframe, I followed Freddie B's finishing techniqie.
In short:
- I filled holes with a mixture of lightweight and clear water based polycrylic; sanded down
- Painted entire airframe with a mixture or water, baby powder, lightweight spackle, clear polycrylic, and a few drops of paint. Sanded again -- the model now smells baby fresh!
- Then I painted on 2 light coats of white acrylic craft paint thinned with a bit of water.
- Next - painted red & grey trim areas. Let everything dry Applied decals.
- Painted entire model with the clear water Based polycrilic. This gave the model a nice, "protective" shine - you still have to be careful because the foam can still be dented.
- Next, I added an extra coat of clear polycrylic to the hull and nose of the airframe. After this dried, I sprayed on a few VERY light coats of the Rustoleum clear coat protective finish - only on the Hull and nose of the airframe. It will eat the foam so you have to be very careful when putting it on.

...So... after all of the above, I did achieve a waterproof hull. BUT -- it still takes a lot of abuse sliding around on the ground. I may try adding a layer of packing tape to the bottom and then spraying the clear coat over that to seal the edges ( I cover the bottoms of most of my belly sliders with Packing tape).

The finishing proceds did add some weight but the model still handles very well.

The way I tested the waterproofing was to weigh the model. I then put it in a tub of water for several minutes, took it out and weighed it again. I then repeated the above process, but weighed her again after an intense water "taxi". If she is watertight, there should be 0 weight gain (after water drips off bottom of model).

This is what worked for me, but please share other methods you may have to waterproof the hull!

Control Rods:
Dubro 30" Micro pushrod system (rudder & elevator) - http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...5.0.0.0?pp=12&
Sullivan Light Weight Control rod (ailerons) #S587 - http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm

Flaps - bent .039" (approx) music wire inserted into small nylon tube (or anything it can freely rotate in). Flap control rod linkages (joints) are made with heat shrink tubing.

Control Horns are made using cut up hotel keys.
Thankyou verry much !!!!!
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 07:23 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
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SNice, love your work and love the A5, it was to be my next project until I found this thread.

I have been working on a similar project to yours, mine is the Seawind http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post21228577

I have still to maiden from water and the second prototype I crashed as it seems it was VERY tail heavy, it is repaired and ready for testing again.

Maybe we could get together and compare notes (so to speak)

Lockey
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Aug 2009
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Thanks, Lockey!!! Just checked out your thread, and your Seawind is a beautiful model! Left you a "book" of a reply. Our builds definitely have a lot in common that we can both use to make better models!

I'm deep into the 52" version build using MPF (Model Plane Foam - www.modelplanefoam.com) For now, all I did was resize the 40" plan, but I will eventually go back and adjust tab sizes and layout for MPF to create a true 52" plan.

It is going pretty well. I must say that the bigger size is nice in that there is more room to work with. I've got the hull completed and am looking into ways to harden and waterproof it. I'm thinking that I will try coffee filters and Polycrylic. Then paint, and then a waterproof clearcoat. Gonna test out the coffee filters and Poly on some scrap foam and then we will see...

I also got a tip that will be very helpful for this build and in the future:
The 31" carbon arrows that I buy from Walmart for my wing spars fit perfectly into the 31" aluminum arrows also from Walmart! So now I can easily do slide-in wing tubes, dihedral, and larger wings!
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:18 PM
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52" MPF build is well underway. I must say, the larger build is much easier and more forgiving spacewise. With the 40" model, the servos are a bit cramped, and you have to be careful to make sure that the servo arms can rotate freely. There is more than enough room in the 52" version. I don't see any issues getting any equipment to fit.

As far as equipment goes, I would like to use a Monsterpower 10 (a Power 10 clone) I also have a PZ480 or 490 from my PZ P51 Gunfighter.

To get the hull waterproof, I have coated the entire botom of the model with coffee filters and minwax polycrylic. It has given the hull a nice protective shell. After painting, then I will spray the hull with the Rustoleum outdoor clear coat. That shoul do the trick!

The only thing I have changed from the 40" is adding balsa to the motor mount area. I also plan to do the wing a bit differently -hoping to achieve a cleaner airfoil and cleaner flap and aileron cut lines. I got this Idea from "Lockey" -- while following his Seawind build. Thanks, Lockey!!!

A few pics below of the 52" & 40"...
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:35 PM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
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Looking good Snice … doesn’t it look BIG at the side of the other on

What have you used for the build? … 6mm Depron? .... think I might be tempted to double (or treble) up on the back end, I am sure it won’t add much weight

As soon as I am happy with my Seawind, I intend to do a larger version

Lockey
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Last edited by Lockey; Apr 17, 2012 at 06:53 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 01:02 AM
skumgummi dave
Gresham, OR.
Joined Mar 2004
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SNice:

Lookin good!

Dave-
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 12:16 PM
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Thanks guys! Can't wait to get started on the wing!

Lockey: The foam used for the 52" build is Model Plane Foam (MPF) - www.modelplanefoam.com. It is a new product in the US developed by rcgroups members dz1sfb, bz1mcr, and Springer. I was lucky enough to get a box out of the first batch as they are now sold out awaiting a new shipment.

It is 6mm, white and paperless. It is manufactured by the same company that makes FFF (fanfold) and DTF (Dollar Tree Foam). I have only worked with DTF in the past, so that is all I have to compare it to, but so far I am loving working with this stuff. It's like thicker, tougher DTF without the waves and paper. The 40" was made using DTF. DTF is 4.5-5mm thick.

The Rudder is doubled up, but I think I may double up the Horizontal stab as well. Being directly in the propwash, I think thicker and better shaped tail components will make for more stability. The flat plate surfaces tend to "jump" around in the propwash.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Roxboro, NC
Joined Dec 2005
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The 52" A5 is looking GREAT! Can't wait to see the finished product. Good luck with the maiden.

I also was able to get in on the first run of the MPF. But unfortunately I haven't been able to get around to using it. I've already got two planes designed to try out and many on the list to build including this one!
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