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Old Dec 26, 2012, 06:43 PM
Registered User
USA, GA, Kennesaw
Joined Dec 2003
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Also, you're probably past this point...meant to post the other day but got busy with Christmas stuff. There is a good basic setup video on youtube, (actually a few) This one walks you through the menu to setup a mode switch.

Again, I imagine you're past this point, but nice to know the stuff is out there for people getting used to the menus on Walkeras

HeliPal.com - Walkera Devo7E Rolling Mode Set Up Procedures (QR LadyBird & Y6 Scorpion) (4 min 14 sec)
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 07:32 PM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
833 Posts
I'll tell ya what this 7E is a very capable Tx based just on reading the manual and digging down into all the sub menus & settings. I'm impressed for the price. I decided on the 7E because I wanted to fine tune my LB and at the same time learn the ins and outs of the Tx so I could use it on a bigger quad early next year. I plan on using the RX701 Rx on an Armattan quad...one of the RXR packages Chris builds...

I can feel a difference with each setting change I make for the LB...It's nice to just make changes and 'try it now'. I mean you have the capability of going negative and positive with all exponentials...you can adjust not only the throws but the dual rate throws as well...you can really adjust the way the LB handles.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 06:01 AM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
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Does anyone know if its full range? what is the rf output power on the 7E?
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:06 AM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
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KC is this what you're after...
From page 3 of the manual - Output power 100 mw
- Output pulse 1000 - 2000 ms (1500 ms neutral)
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:45 AM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
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yea. thanks. I dont read manuals that much anymore. heh

thats good, 2.4ghz at 100mw should match the 200mw 5.8ghz video. 1/2 mile could be doable with tuned antennas...
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 10:41 AM
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USA, GA, Kennesaw
Joined Dec 2003
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You're right about all the fine tuning and setup options available with the current transmitters out there. I think I spent the better part of an evening just playing with dual rate settings and changing switch bindings.

I'm planning on building a quad based around that newer KK2 board sometime soon, and am looking forward to all the flexibility/tuning options you can do with it.

...Just need more time and alot more money. This hobby is very addicting
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 10:53 AM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
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You mean very expensive!
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 11:52 AM
Get Airborne
Sweden, Skåne County, Hofterup
Joined May 2012
278 Posts
I am addicted, flew 12 battery outside today, off course using my lovely Devo 7E.

The LB QR V1 is insane fun to fly when the wind is blowing (accelerometers on).

I use different setups for indoor and outside flying (two different "Model select").
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 11:56 AM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stenkryparen View Post
I use different setups for indoor and outside flying (two different "Model select").
I hadn't thought of that Stenk but it's a great idea...
btw...would you mind a little history / story behind that name?
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Last edited by BD Murdock; Dec 27, 2012 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 05:04 PM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stenkryparen View Post
There is a big difference between loaded and unloaded voltage on a LiPo.

To use all the power in a hard loaded LiPo (as is the case in a micro quad) the cell voltage at the end of flight should be about 3.4-3,5 volt. Then it with no load should measure 3,7 volt.

Typical voltage history for a micro quad LiPo.
Charged unloaded LiPo: 4.2 volt.
After 1 minutes flying (loaded): 3.9 volt.
End of flight (loaded): 3.5 volt.
1 minute after flight (unloaded): 3.7-3.8 volt.

The telemetry on the Devo 7E shows the battery voltage online on the screen during the flight.

Chears /S
This is exactly what happens while I watch the sensor view during and after flight of 5 minutes & 10-15 seconds. Question though, if I have my voltage alarm set to 3.4 volts, the sensor view shows 3.4 volts but the alarm doesn't go off, does that simply mean that the voltage is still some percentage above 3.4 volts like say 3.43 or .44 and the view just doesn't show that? The alarm is 'active'. I've also started using the 'loss of signal' alarm to help me remember to power down the Tx. With all my WL Toys fliers I always powered down the Tx first. I've burned an entire Tx full of AA's with the 2402D because I just forgot to shut it off With the 'loss' alarm active obviously it goes off after I unplug the flight battery.
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Last edited by BD Murdock; Dec 27, 2012 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 07:25 PM
Get Airborne
Sweden, Skåne County, Hofterup
Joined May 2012
278 Posts
The voltage alarm beeps when voltage is below 3,4 V for some seconds.

Alarm level setting (Volt) should be adapted for the used battery type.

When I use good healthy battery the proper setting is 3.4V, then I have flying time left to return to "base".
In my opinion the UDI 240mA 30C battery is really good and also cheap (Banggood).

Well used or worse quality battery with high internal resistans need the voltage alarm to be set to 3.5- 3.6 V, to get some landing time.

I also noticed significant voltage droop (0.2V) between battery connector and circuit board at full load. When the alarm beeps when punching, this is one of the reasons.

The wiring between battery and board should be as short as possibly (also good for low weight).

Quote BD Murdock: "I've also started using the 'loss of signal' alarm to help me remember to power down the Tx."

Good idea, I never thought of this use for the "loss of signal" alarm. Its easy to forget to shut down the transmitter and ruin the battery.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:27 PM
rubber heli skills
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Nov 2009
257 Posts
Not binding

I have a ladybird arriving Tuesday and my brother has had his for about a week. My question is, After flying his for a few battery packs, It now will not bind. The RX light just flashes once plugged in to the battery, but doesn't change like it did before when the TX bound with the bird. It was the RTF V2 version that Xheli sold and we even tried to bind it with his new 2402-D TX with the same results. Why is it not binding and how can we fix it?
Thanks alot guys, Mark
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:23 PM
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USA, GA, Kennesaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerCut View Post
You mean very expensive!
Indeed!
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 12:49 AM
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdeutschman View Post
I have a ladybird arriving Tuesday and my brother has had his for about a week. My question is, After flying his for a few battery packs, It now will not bind. The RX light just flashes once plugged in to the battery, but doesn't change like it did before when the TX bound with the bird. It was the RTF V2 version that Xheli sold and we even tried to bind it with his new 2402-D TX with the same results. Why is it not binding and how can we fix it?
Thanks alot guys, Mark
If when you plug-in the LiPo to the Ladybird, and you get a rapid/fast blinking with-out ever binding.... it is likely the board is crash-damaged.
When binding... a good board will blink slowy, stop, slow blink again, then stop and final bind.

Has anyone with both V.1 and V.2 Ladybirds ever notice that the V.2 needs 2-3 times the space (diameter) to complete a back-flip??

I just built my V.2 Ladybird and tried a back-flip over my bed and almost beaned myself in the head with it! It does a backflip in a lazy 3ft diameter loop, while my V.1 does it in a tight 1ft. diameter loop! I haven't heard this mentioned before and was a real suprise. well no more indoor acro with my V.2 for me. lol
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 08:18 AM
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vpsporb, I saw you mentioned that in the v2 thread, and it caught my attention. I only have a v1, so I can't be much help there. I'm curious too though. I'm wondering if all other things aside from the actual boards are pretty much identically setup when you're flying them?

Just thinking off the top of my head at some things that could be causing the variance aside from board version...is the v2 older than your v1? (motor age/less punch), are the radio settings the same? etc.

Looking forward to others chiming in
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