HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 06, 2012, 03:18 PM
Registered User
waveOmatic's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Aug 2012
80 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Twoskids View Post
That's a very clean and sweet looking installation. Wow! You powering 'em off the aux plug right?


@WaveO ... That is VERY bright Guess it lives us to the "Super Lite" on the package lol
Thanks! Yeah, you can run them off either plug since both give out voltage. You have two plugs with the V1 and one with the V2. Trying to figure out a way to turn them on and off with the Devo 7 using the gear switch. Lol, yeah its very bright, I was flying it in complete darkness and its a flying flashlight, haha.

Quote:
@WaveO ... Why is E.T.'s finger sticking out of your quad ?
Does it help point to HOome
Well I did catch it next to my phone this morning....
waveOmatic is offline Find More Posts by waveOmatic
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 07, 2012, 08:49 AM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Twoskids View Post
That's a very clean and sweet looking installation. Wow! You powering 'em off the aux plug right?
Actually no I'm not, I soldered a plug to the points that the power cable attachs to on the FCB. I was advised by Jesolins that this was a better method in that it would keep DC noise from possibly occurring. I can only assume the DC noise might possibly affect Tx or Rx capability or performance to some degree.
This from Jesolins;

BD,
It is better not to power LEDs that can create DC noise through the power points that were designed for firmware updates. That and the LEDs will have a better power source if you solder a connector to the same points the lipo is attached to the FCB. It is a best practice and not that it won't work when you power from those firmware points on the board. There is just less that can go wrong if they are more directly connected closer to the lipo. Note also that the flight controller boards that do have LED connection sockets intentionally filter those power points with a Vreg or transistor to prevent DC noise from getting to the controller.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Jim
BD Murdock is offline Find More Posts by BD Murdock
Last edited by BD Murdock; Dec 07, 2012 at 09:00 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2012, 09:03 AM
Registered User
USA, GA, Kennesaw
Joined Dec 2003
452 Posts
I... too .. am frustrated by the lack of any real information out there. I love to research before messing around. I have a history of making things *worse* with my experimentation!
Tony Twoskids is offline Find More Posts by Tony Twoskids
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2012, 11:05 AM
Registered User
USA, GA, Kennesaw
Joined Dec 2003
452 Posts
Ok, this makes sense. Although I admit when I get a chance to complete mine, I'm just gonna plug em in. I'm actually going to take some spare wire and random bits this weekend and practice my soldering. I need to improve my skills for the leds, and the fpv stuff I'm working on ordering as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BD Murdock View Post
Actually no I'm not, I soldered a plug to the points that the power cable attachs to on the FCB. I was advised by Jesolins that this was a better method in that it would keep DC noise from possibly occurring. I can only assume the DC noise might possibly affect Tx or Rx capability or performance to some degree.
This from Jesolins;

BD,
It is better not to power LEDs that can create DC noise through the power points that were designed for firmware updates. That and the LEDs will have a better power source if you solder a connector to the same points the lipo is attached to the FCB. It is a best practice and not that it won't work when you power from those firmware points on the board. There is just less that can go wrong if they are more directly connected closer to the lipo. Note also that the flight controller boards that do have LED connection sockets intentionally filter those power points with a Vreg or transistor to prevent DC noise from getting to the controller.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Jim
Tony Twoskids is offline Find More Posts by Tony Twoskids
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2012, 01:40 PM
Registered User
microrcfiend's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Sheffield
Joined Jun 2012
1,494 Posts
Are all the direct drive 7mm motors the same? Can I mix and match 939 and ladybird motors?

I find the ladybird motors are actually cheaper than the 939 ones. Are they better or longer wires or something?

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-7m...l?currency=GBP

and

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Wl...6-p-49473.html
microrcfiend is offline Find More Posts by microrcfiend
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:17 PM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,667 Posts
Hi all,

I finished up a couple of 8 LED Navigation Light Sets for the Ladybird.

They consist of 8-0805 SMD LED's, 2-Red for Port, 2-Green for Starboard, 2-Blue for Aft and 2-White for Forward. I power them with my Low Drop Constant Current Driver (LDCCD) and solder it directly to the Ladybird's PCB for power. The entire light set weighs only 1.38 grams and when installed distributes it's weight so as to not affect the Ladybird's CG at all.

I'm very happy with the end result. These first two are going out to a couple of forum members for testing, hope they give me good reports.

I've posted this little video before but here's my Ladybird prototype lights on an early morning flight.

Ladybird Lights 2 (0 min 44 sec)


Also a few pictures of the Navigation Light Set and it's installation.

Regards,
John
1Hammer is offline Find More Posts by 1Hammer
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:57 PM
Registered User
TurboRacer's Avatar
United States, CT, Waterbury
Joined Oct 2002
1,783 Posts
Cooool!!!! Nice work!
TurboRacer is offline Find More Posts by TurboRacer
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2012, 09:49 PM
Registered User
waveOmatic's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Aug 2012
80 Posts
Yeah, that looks really nice!
waveOmatic is offline Find More Posts by waveOmatic
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:38 AM
Mark Harrison
USA, CA, Piedmont
Joined Jun 2010
2,199 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Hammer View Post
Hi all,

I finished up a couple of 8 LED Navigation Light Sets for the Ladybird.

They consist of 8-0805 SMD LED's, 2-Red for Port, 2-Green for Starboard, 2-Blue for Aft and 2-White for Forward. I power them with my Low Drop Constant Current Driver (LDCCD) and solder it directly to the Ladybird's PCB for power.
Beautiful! Can you explain what the LDCCD is? Or maybe I missed it somewhere?
marhar is offline Find More Posts by marhar
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:01 AM
Registered User
microrcfiend's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Sheffield
Joined Jun 2012
1,494 Posts
Low Drop Constant Current Driver
microrcfiend is offline Find More Posts by microrcfiend
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 10:20 AM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
833 Posts
Very nice work 1Hammer...nice install. Makes mine look like a 'rats nest under the hood'. I need to keep practicing, using the absolute minimum of materials. Micro soldering is just part of the total package. The wiring and end result install is just as tricky...at least for me and my brautwurst fingers...
BD Murdock is offline Find More Posts by BD Murdock
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 02:01 PM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,667 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by marhar View Post
Beautiful! Can you explain what the LDCCD is? Or maybe I missed it somewhere?
Quote:
Originally Posted by microrcfiend View Post
Low Drop Constant Current Driver
Thanks guys.

The easiest way to explain my Low Drop Constant Current Driver (LDCCD) is as follows. It converts the voltage and current of the LiPo to a constant current and voltage suitable for the LED's included in the light set so the LED's remain a consistent brightness as the LiPo discharges. My LDCCD doesn't use resistors to reduce the voltage and current, resistors will shorten flight time as they use additional power to regulate the voltage and current.

For the Ladybird 8-LED Light Set the LDCCD I've built for this application takes the 240mAh and 4.2 V of the LiPo down to a constant 3.0V @ 30mAh for Blue, Green, White LED's and 2.7V @ 30mAh for Red LED's. This particular LDCCD will work with 2S @ 7.2V and 3S @ 11.1V as well.

Hope this explains the LDCCD somewhat.

Regards,
John
1Hammer is offline Find More Posts by 1Hammer
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 03:42 PM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
833 Posts
Thanks John, but perhaps you wouldn't mind explaining exactly what happens inside the shrink wrap...there has to be some kinda fancy stuff goin on in there I'm thinkin. If you'd rather keep it proprietary I completely understand...
BD Murdock is offline Find More Posts by BD Murdock
Last edited by BD Murdock; Dec 08, 2012 at 03:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 04:39 PM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,667 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BD Murdock View Post
Thanks John, but perhaps you wouldn't mind explaining exactly what happens inside the shrink wrap...there has to be some kinda fancy stuff goin on in there I'm thinkin. If you'd rather keep it proprietary I completely understand...
Hi BD,

I'm an architect and building contractor by trade, it took me about 2 years to figure out how to build the LDCCD...I don't think I'm willing to give that up just yet.

BTW, it's "Heat Shrink" not "Shrink Wrap", shrink wrap is what the box is covered with when you buy a new product.

Regards,
John
1Hammer is offline Find More Posts by 1Hammer
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 08, 2012, 05:19 PM
Registered User
microrcfiend's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Sheffield
Joined Jun 2012
1,494 Posts
Hey BD, you may find this page useful.
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/...ing-regulators

I have a purchased unit that has a pot for a range of voltages out and uses switching for efficiency. It's much bigger at about the size of a thumb nail but can take a couple amps and under a tenner. I'm new to electronics so can't help on an exact schematic yet.

I'm sure something built for a specific voltage in and out would be much cheaper and smaller

What about those motors guys, are they all the same?
microrcfiend is offline Find More Posts by microrcfiend
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log Project QR-1 - Rutan Quickie Racer Geode Slope 110 May 04, 2010 11:25 AM
Discussion Ladybird Special imp.bob Vintage & Old-Timer Designs 4 Feb 03, 2008 10:08 PM
ladybird beetle/gws easybug nebuchadnezzar Foamies (Kits) 1 Aug 14, 2004 08:48 AM