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Old Oct 16, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Questions for the Plettenberg pros out there...

Hello,

I'm running a Plettenberg HP 220/25/A1 P6 SL + 5:1 F5B-10 motor and have a few questions....

The setup is currently using 10 RC2400 cells and a Hacker Master 105-3P OPTO controller, set to timing mode 3 (18 degrees...supposedly optimum for Plettenberg motors) and the switching frequency mode 2 (16 kHz...also supposedly optimum for this motor)

When I start the motor, it cogs a bit and then blasts with a pretty mad hurricane of pull

The first question is, is this cogging normal? I'm pretty sure I've seen most very high performance motors do this to a certain extent. If the cogging is not normal, what settings should I try to get it under control? I'd say the motor cogs about three times (less than 1/2 sec) and then blasts off.

Also, what prop should I be running on this motor? Dieter already gave me some hints, but I'd also like some other input since he does not have any experience with this 5:1 version of the F5B-10 motor.

I did the test run with an RFM 16 x 16 narrow prop. The caps on the controller got a little warm from maybe 3 seconds of running....is this OK? I will be using a current clamp next time I fire up the motor to get a better idea of where I'm sitting.

I will also be getting a 10 cell GP 3300 pack and am wondering if that will change prop selection at all.

Finally, those of you who are running the HM 105 controller, what is the hardest you've pushed it?

Thanks for any and all input. This is going to be a wild ride

Ryan.
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Old Oct 17, 2003, 01:51 AM
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United Kingdom, Dorset
Joined May 2002
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The cogging is normal. Its when the controller is deciding which way to spin the prop. Better (newer) controllers have less delay between the radio signal and start up due to better programming. The Kontronik Beat10 has variable startup modes and can be programmed to give instant starts.

The Hacker controllers are also very quick, in my experience. I've never seen the 1/2 second delay you describe. Play with the switching frequency and/or timing mode to see what difference it makes. You could also examine your solder joint between motor and esc to see if there is more resistance in one of the joints. This could confuse the esc.

Mike
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Old Oct 17, 2003, 10:05 AM
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Joined Oct 2002
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Hi Mike,

Thanks for the tidbits of info. The more I thought about it, the more I've realised that I'm probably not looking at too much cogging, and maybe my half second guess was a little long....

Can the motor ever start spinning in the wrong direction, or will it worst case just keep cogging (that may be a dumb question)?

Have you used the Hacker controllers on the Plettenberg motors at all? If so, do you remember the timing modes you were running? I will still play with the timing modes to see if I can get the motor to run a little better.

Finally, with the 105A controller, what current would you prop for?

Thanks again. It helps to talk to people who have been there....

Ryan.
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Old Oct 17, 2003, 12:14 PM
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United Kingdom, Dorset
Joined May 2002
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Sorry, I can't comment on plettenbergs. Hopefully someone else will chip in here.

Regarding the cogging...yes, the motor can oscillate rather than start when the electronics get very confused, but in the correct timing mode this should not be an issue.

I've heard of motors running backwards, but don't know whether this was opperator error (soldered the wrong way without checking) or s/w. I would imagine the ESC would have to go completely wrong for it to spin the motor backwards.

Try to keep the current below 150A on the 105. More than that and the components might desolder from the board. I've got the new Master 99 HD Extreme to play with (8-30 cells) and this can be used at up to 200A I believe.

Mike
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Old Oct 17, 2003, 11:34 PM
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Well, I tried it again tonight and still get a little cogging, but it doesn't seem too bad.

I tried the 16 x 16 narrow on a charged, but not hot off the charger pack of RC2400's and got 115A of current draw. I think I'll fly with that for now. Ideally, I think the goal will be 16 x 16 wide blades, but I don't really know how much more current they will draw. Am I looking at another 15A or so? That will probably get me to the edge in terms of what the contoller can take.
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Old Oct 18, 2003, 03:48 AM
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I haven't measured current, but the motor run time is only a few seconds different between the 16x16 narrow, 16x17 narrow and 16x16 wide. This in only about 5%. I'd say 15A more would be the maximium you'll see when changing from narrow to wide. I'm sure the controller will take it.

Mike
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