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Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:11 AM
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tim.arf's Avatar
United States, FL, Englewood
Joined Feb 2012
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Why are you guys changing the pull pull it works Great!
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Matt Gunn's Avatar
United States, OH, Parma
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Im changing it because it doesn't look appealing IMO. The way the lines come off and have to enter the fuselage almost an inch lower and only a few inches back doesn't work for me, plus it makes a contact point on the fuselage that will rub excessively. I'd rather have a single 4-40 rod coming off one side and strengthened with a carbon rod inside the fuselage.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 09:31 AM
Bypass Ratio = Infinity
scatsob's Avatar
United States, NC, Jacksonville
Joined Apr 2006
1,653 Posts
I don't know why ESM doesn’t just put the servo in the tail. On all of their planes there is plenty of room to bury the servo in the tail on a hatch similar to the ones used in the wings. I just don’t like long control rods/lines in general. It compounds slop and in the elevator especially that is a bad thing for a semi high performance plane.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 12:47 PM
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tim.arf's Avatar
United States, FL, Englewood
Joined Feb 2012
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There is pull pull on all my sport planes for the rudder.
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Michigan
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I am looking at modifing the rudder control also. I just don't like the pull pull lines coming up through the top of the fusealge and the way they exit. It takes away from the lines of the aircraft. I will be cutting an access hatch in the bottom of the fuse just under the rudder hinge line. There will be a bell crank mounted on a dowel and secured in a ply platform below the rudder the dowel will run up thru the fuse and into the bottom of the rudder.

Will keep everything with nice clean lines and an air exit through the fuse.

Mike
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 04:03 PM
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United States, OH, Parma
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Heres my first WOT motor pull. Amps are slightly higher than I wanted, but I think she will unload a few amps in the air. I did some research and there are a number of EFlite Power 160 users pushing it over 90 amps with no issues. However, Im ordering a Menz 15x10 4-blade to give it a try.
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 03:40 PM
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United States, OH, Parma
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I balanced her out today on the Great Planes CG Machine. This was a preliminary balance for component/battery placement locations.

Heres what I discovered that will save you the time of figuring it out yourself.
All-up flying weight is right at 21.7 lbs. Thats with two 6sx5000mah packs.

Even with a long tail moment, the she is still a little nose heavy due to the nose gear, big motor, big CC 120HV esc, heavy TruTurn Ultimate Spinner, big prop and heavy Great Planes motor mount. Thats alot of weight up front in that long nose! To make it balance out, a pair of 6s 5000's are a must. They will need to be mounted right on top of the rudder and elevator servos to balance out. Coincidentally, thats as far back as you can go with them anyway. There are two partial bulkheads on either side of the servos, and the distance between them is 6 5/8". I cut two pieces of hobby ply and made two trays, then Hysol'ed them in with support pieces under them. Its actually a really nice location.

Now, since the batteries are so far back, we have almost 11" of space between the parallel harness and the esc battery leads. I spoke with Castle Creations and got the CC CapPack:
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html
It mounts inline with the battery wires near the esc, and prevents the ripple effect associated with long battery leads. The recommended length is an additional 8", but the CC rep told me 11" shouldnt be a problem, just as long as the ripple voltage is under 5 volts for 50v packs i.e. 10% of the total voltage.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 07:50 AM
But I am learning
I_Can't_Fly's Avatar
USA, MD, Cumberland
Joined Apr 2008
1,047 Posts
I just stumbled across this thread. Nice kit. I am the lead engineer on the canopy fracture initiation system used on this aircraft. The little yellow box above the wing with the "rescue" sticker pointing to it is where the activation handle is. I may just have to purchase this kit.

Brian P.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
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Still Working Away!

Well I have been working away on the T-6 the last couple of weeks as parts come in and I figure out ways to make things work. This is definitly not a beginners ARF Kit. There are some things that need to be cut and re-fitted in order to operate properly.

I got the servos installed for all the control surfaces. As I was hooking up the elevator the 3mm bolt that goes through the elevator was to short in order to reach the control clevis. So back to the hardware store and picked up a 3" bolt and cut it to lenght. Eveything else lined up perfectly.

The Turnigy 6374 192 showed last week. This is when I found that the firewall had all sorts of humps in it. It is going to be very difficult to mount the motor flush on this type of surface. I made a back plate out of 1/4" ply and then mounted the motor on (3/8") 2 1/2" long aluminum standoffs that I had from another motor install. With the plane taped to the bench standing on its tail I was able to center the motor on the firewall and centering it with the cowl. The installation is quite solid. Used 1/8" nylon spacers to get the correct spacing on the back plate and the cowl. The only thing I'm concerned with now is the thrust line. By the eye it appears pretty much at 0' as far as right/left thrust, but it almost appears that there is a slight up thrust line. Will be taking a closer look at this when the Tru-Turn spinner arrives and I'll make final adjustments then and cut the 1 1/2" hole thru the firewall for the wiring and air inlet. Looks like I'll have plenty of room to mount the ESC under the motor.

Next was to finally work out the main gear installation and gear doors. The mains were secured to their platforms using 4-40 allen head bolts and blind nuts. There is a piece of carbon fiber sandwiched between the ply mounts that makes it extremely difficult to mount with the supplied screws. They will snap off!!!
In order to mount the pin hinge on the wing section I cut a small piece of 1/4 X 3/8 hard wood and mounted it on the inside of the outside ply rib in the gear bay now giving me a good area to mount the pin hinge. As I noted in an earlier post you will need to move the small ply door mounts in order to have the door arm center with the gear strut, thus allowing the gear door to center in the wheel well. I re-secured the door arm to the door using a 4-40 bolt and lock nut. You will need to cut a very small area out of the top of the small hardwood block so that the hinge will seat flush with the bottom of the wing and the inside of the block. Secured the pin hinge with the wood screws and attached the door with the small 2mm bolts. Then it was just a matter of making very small adjustments on the door arm collar on the gear strut. Very small adjustments is all it needs in order to get the door to seat pretty much flush in the wheel well.

Photos and a video of the gear are attached.

Video File --
IMG_0150.MOV (0 min 16 sec)


Now its time to epoxy the rest of the wing sections and complete the rudder installation. I ordered the sound system from Sound Solutions in Canada. I decided to go with them based on the information I recieved and the help from Dave Harrison. Very helpful folks plus they had the PT-6 turbine sound that is the actual power plant in this aircraft. Should have it next week. Also talked to Zinger on purchasing an 18 X 12 4 blade prop using the pro-blades. By all the calculations from Moto-Calc this should give me some exellent performance.

Well talk to folks later. Please make sure to leave an ideas or input, I know I can always learn something new.

Mike
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:26 PM
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Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
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Well made some more progress last few days.

With all the wing installations complete except the flaps, I epoxied the wing sections together. The fit was perfect and appeared to be very strong.

Last night started to detail out the wing a bit. I used 1/2" white vinyl tape over the wing joint and 1/2" silver tape on the leading edge to fair together the joint edge. Just so there no bare wood or wood color standing out, I painted the inside of the gear doors and wheel wells. Secured the wheel wells with 1/2" black vinyl tape and servo screws.

Mounted the wing on the fusealge with the supplied nylon bolts and blind nuts.
Well the air plane is finally on its feet and looking a lot better.

Hopefully I'll have time to work on the flaps and get the gear painted tonite.

Prop and Spinner are ordered. Joe at Zinger Propellers was great putting together the 18 X 12 prop and is sending it on to Tru-Turn so they can make sure the cuts are correct. If the timing works out should be able to pick the prop and spinner up at the Toledo RC Expo next week.

Matt have you maidened your Texan yet????

Mike
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:35 PM
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United States, OH, Parma
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Nice progress.
Yep, I'm fully ready to maiden, its happening on Saturday. I got my pilots in (had to order the nude 12" figures, helmets, and flight suits all separately but was worth it as I only spent about $75 for both guys)
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:43 PM
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United States, OH, Parma
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Sorry for the poor camera phone pics, but heres the setup up front. I mounted the esc on a piece of aluminum stock, bent accordingly. Then I cut light ply baffles to direct air up towards the motor
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
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Nice Job Matt!

Where the heck did you get your pilot stuff from??? They look great!
I need a couple of those guys...especially for the price.

Mike
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Michigan
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Make Sure and let us know how it all went....Video would be great!!....


Mike
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 08:35 PM
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Heres some pics from todays flight. The ESM Texan II performs well throughout the entire flight envelope.

A strong word of advice...
DO NOT pull back on the elevator excessively during take off. The short vertical fin on the bottom under the rudder will strike and cause it to nose back down. Ask me how i know. I kept wondering why it would pitch nose down right after takeoff twice in a row. I finally saw some scuff marks ont he bottom of the fin and a small chunk missing from the tip.

On the next flight, I took off by just barely pulling back on the stick and letting her rise off with 15 degrees of flaps. No more issues. If you pick up the nose on the ground, you'll see you only get a few inches under the nose wheel before the tail strikes. Anyway, after that was solved, I've had no problems. She flies exceptionally well.
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