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Old Mar 06, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Snaer810 View Post
Matt,

I figured that if I could not get into the back of the fuse to run an internal 4-40 rod up throught the stab into the rudder I would end up doing some what the same thing you designed. Its definitly an easrier way to go. At least it will be a lot cleaner.
If you want to do internal, you could cut an access hatch pretty easily to attach a control horn to a dowel running up to the rudder.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by webdr View Post
If you want to do internal, you could cut an access hatch pretty easily to attach a control horn to a dowel running up to the rudder.


Thats something I was taking a look at. I also thought that I could cover that access hatch with a luver hatch of some sort and have that as my air cooling the batt. exit from within the fuse.....What do think?
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Snaer810 View Post
Well I talked to folks at TBM to clarify this and they indiacted that all the version II ESM retracts come with aluminum hubs, although they are not the real nice hubs that you can buy separately. They appear a little lighter hub so they will not over stress the retract. Remember that if you buy the upgraded hubs that it is actually the hub only, No Tire.

Tim, one thing that seems to be a little contraversal on the web site is that you say to upgrade to the nice hubs, but the web site indicates that it is not recommended for the ESM electric retracts due to the added weight and possible stress. So I guess, which is it??? Seems that these are pretty strong retracts and the added weight would not really be adding that much stress and it might actually slow the action down slightly which would be more realistic.

Let us know what you find out....Thanks

Mike
Mike V1 Electric retracts i would NOT use the Alum Hubs they are super slow as they are 30-45 sec full up-Full down.

If they are V2 Upgraded Board Faster. Then you can Go Ahead and use the Nice Wheels.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tim.arf View Post
Mike V1 Electric retracts i would NOT use the Alum Hubs they are super slow as they are 30-45 sec full up-Full down.

If they are V2 Upgraded Board Faster. Then you can Go Ahead and use the Nice Wheels.


Tim,

Thats great!! Thanks for checking. Can we use the tire off the Aluminum Hub that comes with the retracts to put on the nicer hubs?
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Snaer810 View Post
Thats something I was taking a look at. I also thought that I could cover that access hatch with a luver hatch of some sort and have that as my air cooling the batt. exit from within the fuse.....What do think?
LOL. you and I think alike. Getting a little air moving out the back could help, although I dont anticipate the batteries heating up to the point of causing any thermal issues. 12S 5000 is nice because it splits the draw from the batteries and doesnt really tax them like a single pack would. Ive got two large scale helicopters that run on 12s 5000 and 10s 5000, and they barely get warm after a flight pulling 70 amps and 2700 watts.

As far as the wheels go: the ones in the picture are the correct width for the V2 gear. If you go with another tire or hub, make sure its the same width cause the axle stubs are kinda short on the mains.
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Matt,

Thanks for the information. Good point on the wheels and tires. I think I'll stick with the hubs and tires for right now that come with the retracts. Probably paint them to match the real aircraft. If I don't really care for them I'll look at buying the nicer hubs.

Oh BTW thanks for your input on the batteries...was not really sure if to be concerned over that or not. Just saw a fellow that completed the PC-21 and he had a concern on the battery heat. He built his to make sure he had air moving thru the fuse with an exit for cooling.

Well can't wait for some of my parts so I can get going on this.

Talk to you later!

Mike
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Finally Starting the Build!!

Well finally started the build on the TEXAN II this past weekend. Did not get as much done as I wanted to, but took my time and probably spent more time on the building sequence than anything. Want to make sure I don't get to a point and all of sudden find my self back tracking and taking apart something. Been there and done that!

Well I started right off with the two outer wing panels. My Hitec 5645 MG all came in Friday, along with the new V2 retracts. Installed the servos witht the provided hatches and blocks. Then installed the aileron hinges using Gorilla glue. This stuff is really tuff and I like the way it fills the gaps behind the hinge. It will build a fillet after installation that will not allow the hinge to back out, unlike using just CA. You want to make sure and mask off the pin hinge at the pin so the expanding glue will not get into the hinge. One small problem I ran into installing the left aileron was a small warp that I didn't see and it didn't install quite as on line as I wanted, but it is minimal and I'm sure it can be trimmed out if necessary.

Installed all the servo hatches and servo ext. All the hatches fit very well.

I went on to install the aileron linkages. The hardware for the kit is not quite the size that I might use on a model this size, (I like using 4-40 stuff) but decided to go ahead and use the supplied hardware. It actually is some pretty nice stuff just a tade smaller..... The kit calls for 3mm lock nuts for secureing the aileron and flap control post, which just so happened the hardware kit did not have a one. If your missing these I believe you will need at least a dozen because they are called for in other places of the build. But no big deal, took a break and off to the hardware store.

Later on Sunday started fitting the wing joiners and drilling out for the alignment dowls using the supplied template. I trial fitted both wing sections to the center section and they lined up perfectly. Cut some access holes in the top of the center section for the ext. leads to come out.

As I was getting prepared to mix up my epoxy to glue the wing sections together I thought "you know maybe I should trial fit the wheel wells and retracts in the center section before I glue these together". Well glad I did, because there was some additional cutting to be completed before the retracts would fit correctly. It was much easier by not having the outer wing sections in place.

Well of course I had to trial fit the wheel wells and gear doors....right!..... Well the wheel wells fit nice and snug and finished off that area very nicely. The gear doors were another story!! Either I'm doing something wrong or the door strut that is mounted to the door is glued out of alignment. This darn thing so far is not aligning with the door opening in the wheel well. Now this is just me holding the retract gear in place (retracted position) and fitting the door to the strut to check the fit. Maybe I need to actually hook up everything securely and operate the gear to see if it draws the door cleanly into the well opening???? Any ideas guys???

Also looking at the wheel wells and retracts....If you epoxy the wheel wells in place, you can forget being able to remove the retract if it needs any maintence / replacement. As far as I can see the wheel well would have to be removed first. Looking for more ideas on this one folks....I'm thinking maybe the wheel well could be secured with velcro on the bottom and high speed trim tape in navy blue around the top flange edges.

The last thing I looked at around 1am was (WALAAaaa.....) you got it.... the nose gear. It dropped in the mount like a glove.....I'm saying to myself all right...something with my gear did fit.!!!! NO....not so fast buckeroo!!!!!! Looked at the nose wheel and the opening for the nose gear and the lenght is to small. The nose wheel misses clearing the aft edge of the opening by as much as 3/8" to 1/2". Looks like the dremel comes out tonight.

Sorry for all the finger prints in the photo's...didn't have my bottle of cleaner around!!....

Let me know if you need any other pictures etc. Wating on the motor and batteries, programming box..etc.

Talk to ya later,

Mike
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:06 PM
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you and I had the exact same issues. The electric gear dont fit well, neither do the gear doors. For the gear doors, I sawed off one of the 4 mounting tabs on the back of the gear door and moved it to the other side. That moved the gear door forward and fixed the gap.

As for the nose wheel, I dremmeled the fiberglass with the drum sanding attachment for a nice fit and it looks just as good as the original.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 09:29 PM
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Sounds like a plan Matt!

Not sure of the 4 tabs on the gear door your talking about. I have only 2 tabs on each door that secure the arm in place. Looking at moving each sets of tabs over in order to center the door on the strut and align the doors with the openings in the wells.

One thing I was looking at, the gear door arm (ring) that slides over the strut is threaded for set screws....does it look like that arm / ring is supposed to be secured to the strut using set screws or is it supposed to be allowed to lside on the strut?

Mike
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Oh BTW...I mis-spoke earlier....it looks like the gear assembly will come out of there with the wheel wells installed...it tight, but will work. Must have been getting tired late last nite. Those doors were giving me fits.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 12:45 AM
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Well started making the modifications to the gear doors tonite. Had to move the hinge points over about 3/16" to get them to center on the strut and wheel well. It looks like after a few test they will now lay in the wheel well quite nicely. Actually a pretty easy fix.

One thing when mounting the gear to the center section.....DO NOT use the mounting procedure in the manual....You will snap off every screw head in what ever the metallic sheet is that is sandwhiched between the ply mounting blocks. I put some short screws in for the time being just to complete the door mounting. I will be getting some smaller 4-40 allen head machine screws and blind nuts to complete the install.

Then came the big disappointment.....while testing the gear and fit of the doors both main gear gave out on me.....Not sure what that was all about....hopefully it was just a fluke and the replacements will be of a higher standard.

Thats all for now....

Picture shows the mod on the door arm hinge point.

Mike
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 06:50 AM
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What do you mean gave out? You got the gen 2 electric retracts? Bummer.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 12:05 PM
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Morning Scat.

Yes, they are the V2 retracts. I wish I knew what went wrong with them. One of the mains had a timing issue and would not cycle in sequence with the other two and it would not shut down for 15 to 20 sec after the full cycle. I would have to say that it may have been a circuit issue. It never made it through a full cycle.

The other main stopped cycling after about the 4th cycle. Again the motor was running but not turning the action screw. It reacted somewhat like the other though in that it would actually regonize its full run and then shut down.

These are really nice retracts and I have not heard of much trouble with them, thats why I'm thinking that maybe I just got a few that had a faulty circuit board or motor mechanism. The nose gear seems to be fine and is very smooth.

TBM is being great and getting a replacement set of mains out to me. It would be nice to find out why these gave out in case it was something I did. But they are pretty straight forward and not much that can be done to goof these up.

We'll see how the new ones do, I'm sure they will be fine.

Mike
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Heres my progress. Installed motor, mounted prop and spinner, servos in. I added some weathering to the fuselage in the form of exhaust stains and some panel line detail. Painted the gear, hubs, and exhaust stacks. Waiting on a few small parts to arrive and should be close to a maiden in the next week or so.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:29 PM
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Matt,

Your TEXAN II is looking teriffic. Beautiful job on the panel work and exaust whethering.
I sure like that Tru Turn Spinner and Belia prop.

I'm hoping to run the same prop but jumping up to a 19X8 with the 6374 motor.
All the calculations from MotoCalc show it should be a good efficent prop.
Looks like I should have the ground clearance.

Did you figure out an alternative for the rudder control other than the pull pull.?

Mike
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