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Old Nov 25, 2012, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixinarow View Post
I have a feeling is the answer is no, but will this carry a Go Pro?

Specs say plane is 17 oz. GP weighs 6.7 oz in the case with mount, 3.5 oz naked.
I'm going to venture a guess that the GP will add too much weight... although I believe the Stratos will still fly, it's not a powerhouse, even with the two motors.

My suggestion would be a keyring camera such as the 808 #16.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 02:24 PM
25+ years of RC flying
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United States, FL
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixinarow View Post
I have a feeling is the answer is no, but will this carry a Go Pro?

Specs say plane is 17 oz. GP weighs 6.7 oz in the case with mount, 3.5 oz naked.
I added about 2 oz. to my Stratos when I installed the Turnigy nav lights system and a separate switch. The takeoff run is a little longer but not by much. The plane is still very much a floater on landing. However, I wouldn't try adding 6.7 oz. of extra weight although the plane might still fly well. Going with the bare 3.5 oz. might be workable. Try it out with your plane and if it survives, let us know!
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 02:28 PM
wjs
William
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Joined Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by BigIron357 View Post
Did you read the entire thread that I linked above? As an RC pilot with 20 years experience and a retired NASA aerospace engineer, I do know what I'm talking about. Please read the other thread that I linked above.

My plane and my buddy's plane are both set up correctly. If the Stratos is correctly set up with neutral elevator at full throttle and the throttle is reduced to idle... AND DOWN ELEVATOR IS THEN MANUALLY INPUT BY THE PILOT to induce a dive... and THEN the throttle is increased to full, MORE down elevator will be input by the VI. This is normal for the Stratos VI but can lead to a sudden deep dive at full throttle. If a beginner is not ready for it, then problems and destruction can arise.
I suppose they are assuming regarless of angle, the additional VI elevator mix cancels out the added lift of the new thrust applied. So, in therory, your plane should be still settle into same angle of attack you where before (big assumption). Effects are not instant because of minor delays, so guess you might get more down attitute then intended under certain conditions especially close to ground. Good to note and watch out for while staying 3 mistakes high. Thanks for the watch out.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Duncanville, TX
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Originally Posted by jrtubb View Post
Yes, I would tack them with CA glue and tread and cover with the heat shrink.
Thank you. Pretty much as I thought, however I hadn't thought of the thread and glue. Good idea.
Don
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 05:46 PM
wjs
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Originally Posted by king1522 View Post
Thank you. Pretty much as I thought, however I hadn't thought of the thread and glue. Good idea.
Don
King. If your talking about the rubber fuel tubing, you do not glue that anywhere. It just holds the horns tight. If you talking about replacement push rods, then forget the ca and use JB Weld as I posted.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 06:31 PM
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I did read your thread, it was one of the ones that had me concerned with this plane for my son to learn on. My son's plane does not behave the way you say your plane behaves. I also don't have him dive the plane with throttle at idle then add power then pull up.

In my years of flying RC since 1990, and as a person who flew pattern competition I have built and flew a lot of planes, this stratos is a very good plane for someone to learn on. I have always instructed pilots with low powered planes to have full power for straight and level flight, give slight down input for a dive to gain speed, then full up for the loop, reduce power to idle at the top of the loop and then finish the loop with adding power as you pull out at the bottom.

I think you idle first may be the issue, since you have 20 years of experence and you are pushing this plane's design why not turn off the virtual instructor.

My engineering degree is from Embry Riddle Aeronatical University, and I have quite a bit of experence in my aerospace field, but that has relatively little to do with flying a beginner RC plane. Good luck with your flying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigIron357 View Post
Did you read the entire thread that I linked above? As an RC pilot with 20 years experience and a retired NASA aerospace engineer, I do know what I'm talking about. Please read the other thread that I linked above.

My plane and my buddy's plane are both set up correctly. If the Stratos is correctly set up with neutral elevator at full throttle and the throttle is reduced to idle... AND DOWN ELEVATOR IS THEN MANUALLY INPUT BY THE PILOT to induce a dive... and THEN the throttle is increased to full, MORE down elevator will be input by the VI. This is normal for the Stratos VI but can lead to a sudden deep dive at full throttle. If a beginner is not ready for it, then problems and destruction can arise.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Japan, Fukuoka Prefecture, Fukuoka
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Do you think the new GoPro Hero3 could be connected to the Stratos for filming flying? It is much smaller than the Hero or Hero2 and weighs less. Has anyone tried and had success?
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 07:23 PM
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jrtubb...

Interesting and well presented overview there... yours are the kind of posts that I find helpful and informative, thanks.

... Lennie
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:15 PM
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United States, FL
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrtubb View Post
I did read your thread, it was one of the ones that had me concerned with this plane for my son to learn on. My son's plane does not behave the way you say your plane behaves. I also don't have him dive the plane with throttle at idle then add power then pull up.

In my years of flying RC since 1990, and as a person who flew pattern competition I have built and flew a lot of planes, this stratos is a very good plane for someone to learn on. I have always instructed pilots with low powered planes to have full power for straight and level flight, give slight down input for a dive to gain speed, then full up for the loop, reduce power to idle at the top of the loop and then finish the loop with adding power as you pull out at the bottom.

I think you idle first may be the issue, since you have 20 years of experence and you are pushing this plane's design why not turn off the virtual instructor.

My engineering degree is from Embry Riddle Aeronatical University, and I have quite a bit of experence in my aerospace field, but that has relatively little to do with flying a beginner RC plane. Good luck with your flying.
I'll address your comments that I've emphasized above.

Have your son try the maneuver as I described and see how your Stratos behaves. Just be sure to have plenty of altitude. My flying buddy didn't and ended up with a pile of broken foam even though he'd seen the aircraft's behavior while flying with me and had been forewarned. As an engineer, how about trying to duplicate the test results and get some empirical data of your own instead of just telling other people that they're wrong.

Yes, I already know about the reason for the plane's behavior and pointed it out in my thread.

I leave the VI on and the elevator in its initial size configuration so that my 6 y.o. son and wife can fly the plane too. It is an excellent trainer for both of them.

Personally, I feel that the VI should be upgraded to recognize when down elevator is manually input at low power and then have it tone down its response during that input.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjs View Post
King. If your talking about the rubber fuel tubing, you do not glue that anywhere. It just holds the horns tight. If you talking about replacement push rods, then forget the ca and use JB Weld as I posted.
Thanks for your explanations. I am about to attempt to replace the pushrods and am a bit confused (or exasperated) as how to go about it. I assume I can cut the rods into pieces to get them out, but how in the heck do I get them back in. At the module in front, the rods have a z bend and no room to work with it! Is there a thread describing how to do this or can anyone help?
Thanks
Don
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjs View Post
King. If your talking about the rubber fuel tubing, you do not glue that anywhere. It just holds the horns tight. If you talking about replacement push rods, then forget the ca and use JB Weld as I posted.
Thanks for the information. I am about to attempt to replace the pushrods and am a bit confused (or exasperated) at how to go about it. I assume I can cut the rods into pieces in order to remove them, but how do I get them back in? At the control unit in the front of the plane, the rods have a z bend with no room to work with them. Is there a thread that explains all this or can someone give me some help?
Thanks
Don
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:49 PM
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oops, sorry for the double post!
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 09:03 PM
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United States, AL, Huntsville
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigIron357 View Post
IAs an engineer, how about trying to duplicate the test results and get some empirical data of your own instead of just telling other people that they're wrong.
Sorry but I never said you were wrong, you obviously had the experience and have passed on the info. From this conversation I have learned a lot more about the conditions leading to the event then I gathered from your other posts. I would never instruct my son, or anyone, to try an initiate a loop at idle by diving then adding power then adding elevator. I've never heard of that technique and am not sure what the advantage it would be.

Glad your son and wife fly, my son is 8 and this plane has improved his flying skills faster then I learned on a glow plane. He has no fear of wind, this week we had a very difficult cross wind at the field that made landing tricky, but he just was shooting touch and goes over and over to get better. We were flying with two top pattern competitors preparing for the world championships and they noted how good John was doing with his plane in less then ideal conditions.

Happy flying and enjoy the family time.

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Old Nov 25, 2012, 09:10 PM
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Thanks Lennie, glad to help.

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Originally Posted by .quietguy View Post
jrtubb...

Interesting and well presented overview there... yours are the kind of posts that I find helpful and informative, thanks.

... Lennie
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 01:07 AM
wjs
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United States, MI, Brighton
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by king1522 View Post
Thanks for the information. I am about to attempt to replace the pushrods and am a bit confused (or exasperated) at how to go about it. I assume I can cut the rods into pieces in order to remove them, but how do I get them back in? At the control unit in the front of the plane, the rods have a z bend with no room to work with them. Is there a thread that explains all this or can someone give me some help?
Thanks
Don
I have not done it yet on this model, so take with grain of salt.
1) I would first cut one near the servo but in the rod. Cut other end too.
2) Use the old one to "fish" the new rod in by masking tape both old and new together near the ends.
3) Install the z-bend in the servo.
4) Install two small pieces (1/8") of shrink and a larger piece down the rod to save them.
5) Align both rod and z-bend similar to what is today overlap.
6) Move the small pieces of shrink to end of carbon and end of z-bend.
7) Use a heat sheld like double tin foil behind the rod to protect the RX and foam.
8) Shrink the two small pieces with lighter or heat gun. This holds the two pieces together.
9) Apply your JBWeld carefully to the joint.
10) You could move the bigger piece of shink over the whole joint to dress up. Or forget the shrink.

Do same for other rod and both Horn ends after making sure measurements are right and your clevis' end up at right spot. Screw the clevis on about half way so you have some adjustment room in both directions. This does mean the underside of the joint at the servos will not have any epoxy. I guess another way would be to remove the whole RX carefully after cutting rods and glue back in after. This would allow you to glue the rods outside and install the z-bends on the servos outside of the plane. Then fish everything back in at the same time using old rods to Fish in the new rods. Might need some help.
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