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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:12 PM
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USA, AL, Fort Rucker
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Replacing/Repairing Monokote Covering

Hello everyone I hope I can enlist your help. I have a Nitro Fuel Low Wing Sport Plane who's covering has started to peel back and is now coming off of the wing. So I decided to attempt to recover it. My question is that when I started peeling the old covering off there was significant residual covering left on the wing which doesn't seem to be capable of peeling off. So I was wondering do I have to somehow find a way to remove the remnants, and if so how, or can I simply scuff it with sandpaper and cover over it?
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:32 PM
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United States, SD
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You could just cover over it or sand it off.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:38 PM
Good Better Best quest.
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Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
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Hope you are not considering using translucents its a bear.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:51 PM
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Yes, if you are using see through covering you are going to spend some time.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 02:22 AM
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Lacona, NY
Joined Dec 2009
291 Posts
What I do is use acetone to remove the residual covering left over with a paper towel or clean rag until it no longer comes off on the rag, or you can lightly sand it off with 250 grit or higher sandpaper like someone else suggested if the color just refuses to come out. Sand it just light enough to get the color out of the wood. No matter what it can be time consuming, but if you love your plane it will be well worth it in my opinion.

I re-did my Discontinued "Bashed" Great Planes 60 Fokker Dr1 that's on page 92 in this months MA. My build you can find here incase you want to check out my re-building techniques:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10038870/tm.htm



Pete
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 07:21 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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While it may be possible to get away with it, using strong solvents like MEK, lacquer thinner, or acetone, presents the possibilty of glue joint degredation.

If I were stripping the covering from a model, I would use my covering iron to loosen the covering. Anything left can be picked, sanded, or left, as is.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 09:35 AM
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United States, TX, Leander
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My experience has been to use my curved blade exacto knife (dont remember the #) to scrape it off. Very time consuming but it seems to get the bulk of it off. I have found that sanding sometimes pushes the color into the grain a bit, then you have to sand down a bit to remove it. Most of the time thats not an issue. I use the hot air gun when removing the plastic. If done carefully you can get most of the color off. But there always seems to be a stubborn part you have to deal with. My Rascal110 is over 10 years old and has been recovered 4 times.
Edwin
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Lacona, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
While it may be possible to get away with it, using strong solvents like MEK, lacquer thinner, or acetone, presents the possibilty of glue joint degredation.

If I were stripping the covering from a model, I would use my covering iron to loosen the covering. Anything left can be picked, sanded, or left, as is.
Did I say put it on a rag and wipe it off until the color no longer shows on the rag? I don't think I wrote to poor it on the balsa or ply, did I? If I did then I was wrong.

If that was true, then the glue joints of my Fokker Dr1 would have fallen apart on its maiden! As I recall, I pulled quite a few g's with it during the flight including that rough landing. I don't recall picking up any parts that had fallen in the grass. Let me ask my wife if she picked up any parts that I didn't know about. She said, "Nope!"

Heat doesn't remove the left over colored glue, and if you were to take a iron to it, he will only smear the glue coloring on the balsa even further.

If you read my build thread, you will see what I wrote works and will not effect hot glue joints or epoxy. CA glued joints I would re-hit with Ulta thin CA as a precaution, because like Tom said, it can and will dissolve some of it. But it does takes a bath in it with a lot of rubbing to get medium CA off of wood.

I know, it took me a few months to remove the original old Mono glue and color off. The original owner of my Fokker Dr1 really applied the heat trying to get the wrinkles out, burning the Mono and glue deep in the wood. The balsa in some places looked like it was shellacked, and I had a terrible time getting it off, but I was smarter than project and I won in the end.

Just take your time, and keep working at it, it will come off in time. It's something that can't be rushed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1 View Post
My experience has been to use my curved blade exacto knife (dont remember the #) to scrape it off. Very time consuming but it seems to get the bulk of it off. I have found that sanding sometimes pushes the color into the grain a bit, then you have to sand down a bit to remove it. Most of the time thats not an issue. I use the hot air gun when removing the plastic. If done carefully you can get most of the color off. But there always seems to be a stubborn part you have to deal with. My Rascal110 is over 10 years old and has been recovered 4 times.
Edwin
That works, I remember I did that on top of what I wrote I did, and it still was a pain in the rear! But it was definitely worth it in the end.

Pete
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Last edited by Oberst; Feb 24, 2012 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Pete
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Last edited by Oberst; Feb 24, 2012 at 10:22 AM. Reason: Double Post
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 02:10 AM
TigreJohn
United States, CA, Corona
Joined Aug 2008
1,002 Posts
I would say if your going to recover it with the same or similar color iron on: forget trying to remove the residue. The film cover has the color in the adhesive and what remains has soaked into porous parts of the wood. Adhesion of the new covering will be increased by the old adhesive in those areas. Just confirm that there is no plastic topcoat left behind.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 11:15 PM
BARCS 1901 BMFA S176 R-0200004
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Saudi Arabia, Makkah Province, Jeddah
Joined May 2011
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Oil soaked wood?

Interesting thread.

I'm planning on re-covering my Pulse 60XT which is well flown and the covering starting to peel in places. I'm a little concerned that I will find that fuel and oil has seeped into the wood of the airframe and I will face difficulties in getting the new covering to stick.

Anyone got any advice on how to go with this? Thanks.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 05:54 AM
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A hot air gun works to get a lot of the heavy stuff out. Heat, then you see the fuel/oil come to the surface, then wipe it off. Keep doing this using a different piece of paper towel each time. OR, using a carpet cleaner like K2R. It powders up when done so you can vacume it out. I dont think it works as fast or as good as the heat gun method. When done, I use thin CA to coat the smaller areas. If its a big area, its easier to cut out the wood and replace it. If there is a known trouble spot I'll seal the wood undernieth where the covering would be with thin CA to prevent any future fuel soaking. Covering around the firewall gets thin CA along the edge for extra holding strength and undernieth about a 1/2" back just in case. Then a light wipe down with some acetone to get rid of any fog. All firewall wood is sealed with thinned epoxy or thin CA depending on the situation. I also seal the tank compartment with thinned epoxy and drill a drain hole in the lowest spot. You only have to have a tank split once to learn your lesson on that.
Edwin
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 09:41 AM
Fueled by Arabica Beans
ChillPhatCat's Avatar
United States, NY, Syracuse
Joined Oct 2008
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The easy solution is to get all off by peeling that you can and just recover it with a darker color. But, if I'm going to a lighter color, I prefer sanding which also has the advantage of smoothing out some of the dents and dings you get from bugs and grass and whatnot over the years. You can use light filler to fill in bigger defects while you're at it. I don't mind removing material because all planes have an expiration date.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Anybody got a way to make that date visible?
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Western KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1 View Post
Anybody got a way to make that date visible?
High G ground impact makes it show up.
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