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Old Jul 26, 2012, 08:46 AM
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So "vaseline" seems a better option. That won't harm the paint and it's even good for your skin. At least when you take the version that has no acid.
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Old Aug 03, 2012, 01:34 PM
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McCarthy, Alaska
Joined Jun 2004
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My Westward 18 arrived yesterday. Looks real nice except there is a loose bulkhead laying in the open part of the hull. I assume it should be under the winch? Anybody with one of these care to take a look or post a photo of the hatch area. I looked on Horizon's website, but their photo of the hatch area does not show where the bulkhead should go.
Thanks
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 11:30 PM
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McCarthy, Alaska
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Well I removed the servos and was able to see where the bulkhead went (to the rear) and also found a side stringer lying loose in the bottom. Got it all glued up now and the servos re-installed. I have a question though. When I turn on the transmitter the winch servo moves quite a bit from the un-powered position. Is this normal or do I have a problem with the electronics?
In my airplanes, you disconnect the battery. This boat seems to power down when the transmitter is shut off? The instruction manual leaves much to the imagination for a novice like me. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 12:04 AM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSEN View Post
...(quote edited slightly)

.....I have a question though.

1) When I turn on the transmitter the winch servo moves quite a bit from the un-powered position. Is this normal or do I have a problem with the electronics?

2) In my airplanes, you disconnect the battery. This boat seems to power down when the transmitter is shut off?
@WSEN:
1) This is normal - the sailwinch will move to where the TX stick is telling it to be. If it is a drum type winch (I think it is) this could be a number of turns of the drum.
e.g. stick down = sails sheeted in = winch near one end of travel
e.g. stick up = sails sheeted out = winch near other end of travel
(You may need to also adjust winch endpoints depending on your setup)

2) You need to disconnect the boat battery - many boats have a switch - very convenient. If you leave it connected it will flatten the boat battery
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:03 AM
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United States, IN, Carmel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptor3d View Post
when i turn on the radio system the rudder works just fine the winch servo just tightens itself up that it pulls the sails down to the deck of the boat an wont release no matter where i put the throttle stick
Yeap, same happened to me the day before yesterday. I took it to Hobbytown USA and the boatguy told me that these sail winch servos are known to be problematic.

A call to Horizon and a new replacement servo is in the mail.

This happened unexpectedly after a couple of months of trouble free use. I sailed casually last week, put it on it's stand in the dining room and when I turned it on again a week later it was spinning constantly on one direction pulling the boom down. It looked like it had a faulty potentiometer.
I opened up the servo sprayed little WD40 and presto - It's working again! I'll keep the new for future replacement...

/Dimitrios
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:20 AM
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United States, IN, Carmel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoverDown3K View Post
I tried hatch tape about a month ago, it peeled the paint off the hatch.. so make note....
Same here... The tape lifts flakes of paint off the hatch. It's bare grayish plastic now.
No problem with the hull's paint though!

/Dimitrios
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 11:06 PM
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McCarthy, Alaska
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Finally maidened my Westward today. My first sailboat venture, and it was fairly successful. The lake was calm, but there was just enough wind to fill the sails and propel the little craft nicely.

Only minor glitch was that the mainsail boom was sticky. When I got home I took the joint apart and polished the surfaces and now it swings smoothly.

I did install a switch in the battery line as taking the batteries out of that holder is no easy task!

It seems the QC problems that HH has had with several of its recent airplanes may be showing up in the boats also. No biggies, but the boat should be ready to sail without removing the servos , gluing the bulkheads, etc.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 01:50 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Congrats on a succesfull maiden. Now let's see what it does with a stonger breeze.

I agree on the QC issues. Let's hope that this will improve. So far QC and after sales support is sets companies like HH apart from cheaper RTR stuff. Slipping on QC brings them closer to their competitors.

As for the battery holder, I would advise getting a soldered battery pack asap. These holders are notorious for contacts corroding, causing control glitches.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Joined Aug 2012
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re: boat battery. I use a rechargeable battery with a normally closed contact. When I plug in the charger, it opens the circuit during recharge; i.e. feeds juice to the battery only. I keep the pig tail in my pocket and when there's a lull in the activity, I just plug the pig tail into the boat. I use the same technique on my planes.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:19 PM
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McCarthy, Alaska
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I assume a 7.4 lipo would be satisfactory to replace the 4aa pack? I have plenty of them from my airplanes.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Darin Jordan's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSEN View Post
I assume a 7.4 lipo would be satisfactory to replace the 4aa pack? I have plenty of them from my airplanes.
I haven't looked at the specs for the RX in this, but going from 4.8V to 7.4 could be an issue... I'll look into it and let you know...

I would think that the servos would have to be the HV servos to make this work...
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:24 PM
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McCarthy, Alaska
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Isn't 4 aa batteries equal to 6v, not 4.8?

(Nice to see Team Horizon Hobby on this thread! Thanks much!)
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:34 PM
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Darin Jordan's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSEN View Post
Isn't 4 aa batteries equal to 6v, not 4.8?

(Nice to see Team Horizon Hobby on this thread! Thanks much!)
Well... technically, 4 BRAND NEW AA batteries would start at 1.5v/cell... but I think you'd find them at 1.4V-1.3V/cell pretty quickly. That said, they'd have higher V than NiMH....

I sent a note to my Spektrum and Pro Boat contacts... I'll get back to you as soon as I hear from them.

I still believe that the Servos wouldn't handle the extra V, which is why they make special HV (High Voltage) servos for this kind of thing.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:39 PM
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McCarthy, Alaska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
Well... technically, 4 BRAND NEW AA batteries would start at 1.5v/cell... but I think you'd find them at 1.4V-1.3V/cell pretty quickly. That said, they'd have higher V than NiMH....

I sent a note to my Spektrum and Pro Boat contacts... I'll get back to you as soon as I hear from them.

I still believe that the Servos wouldn't handle the extra V, which is why they make special HV (High Voltage) servos for this kind of thing.
Thank you kind sir.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Darin Jordan's Avatar
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OK, answer, straight from my good friend, who is one of the Spektrum Engineers:

Quote:
The rx will handle 2S, the servos won’t. All our receivers except the UMX stuff will take up to 9.6V input.



So, that's what I thought... the RX's are fine up to 9.6Vinput, but you'll burn up the servo.

It's not really cost effective, but if you REALLY wanted to run a 2S Lipo, you could install one of these VRs:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ator-SPMVR5203

Or something similar....

Hope this helps!
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