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Old Feb 11, 2013, 08:48 PM
I'd rather be flying
baddb1's Avatar
United States, NY, Saratoga Springs
Joined Jan 2009
1,214 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
From what you are doing, it should work. I think the ESC may be the Issue.
If you calibrate, shut everthing down, and repower the PCB and bind, with the throttle all the way off, then power the Esc, you should hear one beep, then one beep for each cell, and thebn a final OK beep. That is the normal power up sequence.
The only other thing I can suggest is make sure you have no trim on throttle and make sure you have the range at 100% in the TX.
If none of that fixes it, you may need to borrow a multimeter that you can measure frequency pulses and chech the servo plug o n the PCB for output after binding. The last resort is get another ESC.
Zarrick - I have the old style F45 PCB but I finally did get mine to work with a switch in the ESC. What I did was after getting the PCB bound, I put throttle at 100%,, switched on the ESC and let it go into programming mode. I let it cycle thru the programming mode which for the HK ESC it has only 3 modes. When it cycled back to the one beep, I immediatly brought the throttle back to zero. Then w/o doing anything else, I killed power to PCB and ESC so settings would be saved. I found this description (below) for programming the HK-18A ESC. I am thinking my problem before was that I zero'd the throttle at the "two" beeps by mistake and set it for a different battery type. Now, when I bind PCB and then I turn on ESC w/ switch,, the throttle starts up normally. Anyway, not sure if it will work for you, but it's something to try....

For the HK-18A ESC:
So I have searched in web an i found that the controller is programmable.
Possible options:
- LIPO-mode (auto selection 2/3 cells)
- NIMH-mode
- Break on / off

To program this controller you have to move transmitter throttle to full position.
Now connect battery to controller.
Wait some seconds, than you hear:
*peep* - *short pause* - *peep*
*pause*
*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*
*pause*
*peep*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*peep*
*pause*
this sequence will repeat...

When you want to use NIHM cells, you have to move throttle to off position when you hear the first *beep*beep*. Than you have to wait for a longer *beeep* and a short *beep*. That's all. You can disconnect battery now.

When you want to select LIPO mode, start from the beginning (throttle full, connect battery, listen to the beeps)
At the time when you hear the first single *beep* move throttle to off and wait for
*beeep* and *beep*.

When you want to switch Brake On or Off, start from the beginning, then wait for the first *peep*peep*peep* within one sequence and put throttle to off. Wait for *beeep* and *beep*.

Note: When you connect battery and throttle is in off position you will hear a long *beeeep* when LIPO-mode ist selected or a short *beep* when NIMH-mode is active.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 08:53 PM
I'd rather be flying
baddb1's Avatar
United States, NY, Saratoga Springs
Joined Jan 2009
1,214 Posts
Now that I am running the brushless main motor , I noticed the tail motor has a hard time keeping up when a quick burst of throttle is applied. Any ideas of what can be done? Would a different tail prop help? Thanks for everyones help ! This is a great thread!
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 10:09 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
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EC-135 Real Deal

Figured since I was looking at real helis I would throw this one out there. Sure wished this one was mine. ScottHeli
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 11:07 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
I have had a wonderful day today NOT My Imax B6 charger just went up in smoke!!

So I have ordered a new Turnigy Accucel 6 it should be here on Thursday.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 11:48 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,441 Posts
Oh no!
I have a fake B6 that was giving me grief so I ordered the Turnigy Accucel 6. Strange thing... since getting the Turnigy the fake B6 is now working fine too. I hope you find the Turnigy reliable. I've only had mine a few months so I can't speak to that yet.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 04:29 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
R/C Power Supply

A while back some of you were looking for Power supplies for your Li-Po charges, you need a 12V at a minimum of 5Amps so why don't you just use an old AT or ATX PC power supply it is so easy to mod them.

All you do is to open up the power supply then go to the 24 pin plug and at the end that plugs into the M/B cut the 4th wire in the top row (which is the M/B power on switch) note the top is the row with the clip on it.
This wire would be either Gray or Green and pull it out of the loom back to the PS M/B then cut out all of the wires except the Yellow 12V+ and the Blacks GND.
Now I like to cut all of the wires all of the way back to the M/B others just cut them at a length separate the colours and heat shrink them.
Then take the single wire we cut out from the 4th plug(either Green or Gray) and 1 of the black wires and cut and solder them together if your PS has a switch, if it doesn't you can connect these two wires to an old on/off switch so you can turn the PS on or off.

Now 2 Yellow and black wires is more than enough to carry 10 amps so you could just use those but I and most people take all of the Yellow wires and the same amount of Black wires and join them all together and tape them up and solder them to 2 Female Banana connectors mounted into the body of the PS then cut out the rest of the left over Black wires.

Turn on plug in and charge away.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:14 AM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
I have had a wonderful day today NOT My Imax B6 charger just went up in smoke!!

So I have ordered a new Turnigy Accucel 6 it should be here on Thursday.
Sorry to hear that. The Turnigy seems to be bullet proof so far.
I have charged Several thousand times with mine, everything up to 6s 5000mah batteries, and it still works flawless.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:58 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Sorry to hear that. The Turnigy seems to be bullet proof so far.
I have charged Several thousand times with mine, everything up to 6s 5000mah batteries, and it still works flawless.
Yep thats why I jumped at it and for the price as that is here it Australia about 200klm away, the only heli I can fly at the moment is a tiny 100 scale 3.5 channel heli that my sister brought me for my birthday from one of the supermarket vendors as it charges itself from the IR Tx.

Roll on Thursday
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:00 AM
Flying a Falcon or a RC Heli.
fauconnier's Avatar
Canada, QC, Rimouski
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddb1 View Post
Now that I am running the brushless main motor , I noticed the tail motor has a hard time keeping up when a quick burst of throttle is applied. Any ideas of what can be done? Would a different tail prop help? Thanks for everyones help ! This is a great thread!
I increased the tail prop by 30 to 40 % on my BL F45, like I did a couple of years ago for my big coaxial, with a piece of aluminum blind . My goal is to increase the rudder output to help the tail fighting the rotor torque and the wind with a minimum rudder input from the transmitter to keep maximum aileron. I didn't complete my testing yet, but it seems to help for the initial burst, not sure for the wind and the tail motor longevity, but it is tough on the tail gear shaft .
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:03 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
The IC chip for the temp monitor burnt out on the board or should I say fried itself as there is virtually nothing left of it.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 08:32 AM
Cranky old fart
Balr14's Avatar
Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddb1 View Post
Now that I am running the brushless main motor , I noticed the tail motor has a hard time keeping up when a quick burst of throttle is applied. Any ideas of what can be done? Would a different tail prop help? Thanks for everyones help ! This is a great thread!
It was common to do a direct drive tail conversion on the HBFP. But, even though that heli is the same size, it had far less weight. So, I don't know if that would work. You might try reducing main rotor torque by trimming the blades down a little. That would require a lot of trial and error.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 09:23 AM
Goooo!!!! Get to da choppa!!!!
United States, NC, Albemarle
Joined Jan 2013
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Quote:
It was common to do a direct drive tail conversion on the HBFP. But, even though that heli is the same size, it had far less weight. So, I don't know if that would work.
I can't speak for everyone here, but that would certainly be my first choice if it can be done on the F45. The mechanical side of such a conversion makes perfect sense to me, but how could the electronics portion be accomplished? The F45 tail motor is just given more power to speed up- meaning there is no place to connect a 3rd servo after the ESC for BL is installed.

Forgive the noob. My ignorance is showing....
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 09:40 AM
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Joined Mar 2009
131 Posts
EC-135 Rescue w/Floats & LED's

Well guys, thanks for the thumbs up. Of course this is all show and no go. There is no way it would fly all this weight, but cool to look at. Check her out with pontoons. led's, rescue basket, and dressed in EC-135 Fuselage. Oh, two things. The stock battery does perform better if I run it all the way down and then fully charge. Li-ion, do not know why? And of course shorter flight time with fuselage. Hopefully, I can get an in flight photo today weather permitting. No Facebook, its all here for you guys on RC-Groups F-45 Thread. Great Bunch Here!!!!!!!!!!!
ScottHeli
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 09:40 AM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpinnc View Post
I can't speak for everyone here, but that would certainly be my first choice if it can be done on the F45. The mechanical side of such a conversion makes perfect sense to me, but how could the electronics portion be accomplished? The F45 tail motor is just given more power to speed up- meaning there is no place to connect a 3rd servo after the ESC for BL is installed.

Forgive the noob. My ignorance is showing....
No ignorance involved. LOL If you are staying with a brushed motor, it is as simple as replacing the motor with a motor with a slighly longer shaft, putting a prop adapter on and installing a prop. What some forget is that with direct drive the prop is now turning in reverse so you will need to either install a reverse pitched prop or wire the motor to turn in the other direction.

It is a whole 'nother story if you are going brushless on the tail as far as the electronics goes, but a "3rd servo" is not required.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 09:50 AM
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Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottheli View Post
Thanks Arrowshooter. Hows you projects coming? I hope your getting some flight time in.
Just got through learning that when they say level the swash, they mean it. It has a definate effect on what the gyro does and no matter what you do with the trims the gyro still wants to go back where you were. Headed out today at lunch for second flight and will put my camera on the bed of my truck to see if I can get some video of something more than one turn and a crash. HAHAHA
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