Originally Posted by BThirsk

Actually, several tried the direct drive extreme and eflight brushed motors and reported they did not work as good as the stock motor. They where both designed to run on 11 volts and it appears on 7.4, they are not fast enough.

Me thinks a ESC/BL thats built like the kit thats available through aliexpress would be the solution.(of course scaled down) It uses the on board esc to generate the control signal, needing no signal converter. I like the KISS method. Is my long-term hope to get one of them for my 'wild '45 project'
Winds kicked up as the sun started heating things... 15 mph wind gusts is a HOOT to fly in... makes things right exciting
flyin til im dyin

correct me if i am wrong, a motor operating on 11v would draw less current as the same motor doing the same work @ 7.2v... AND if the ESC FET can take the voltage, shouldnt the ESC actually run cooler... as it only has to handle 66% of the current that is drawn @ 7.2 (all leading up to this) the tail esc only switches ground, why cant it be fed from the 11 volt rail? Another reason I was going with the kit is that it is 7.2v, negating the need for more batteries, a spendy charger and so on and so forth

Originally Posted by BThirsk

I broke a skid when my gyro went crazy from too cold conditions. I decided to look for better skids. These are Tarot 450.

Looks the pants Brent, get me my sunglasses

Are they a drop in (or screw on) replacement, and do you have a link to them?

Thanks
Fin

Hi Guys! I just got my new F45 a couple of days ago and I'm completely in love. Coming from an s107g coax heli it's nice to have something I can fly outside. I've had a couple of small crashes but nothing major and most importantly nothing broken...so far. lol I have everything configured right and she flies good and hovers great. My only issue is that I notice the body of the heli leans a little to the right. Is this normal? I thought adjusting the swash plate or something might fix it but I've had no success. Makes it a little more difficult to bank a left turn if the body is leaning to the right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the forum! Bought my f45 after reading a lot of information on here.

Thanks Danny

Originally Posted by quizza

Hi Guys! I just got my new F45 a couple of days ago and I'm completely in love. Coming from an s107g coax heli it's nice to have something I can fly outside. I've had a couple of small crashes but nothing major and most importantly nothing broken...so far. lol I have everything configured right and she flies good and hovers great. My only issue is that I notice the body of the heli leans a little to the right. Is this normal? I thought adjusting the swash plate or something might fix it but I've had no success. Makes it a little more difficult to bank a left turn if the body is leaning to the right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the forum! Bought my f45 after reading a lot of information on here.

Thanks Danny

As I know every single rotor tilts to the left when takes off so you have to compensate it moving it to the right. when it flies it leans to the right which is normal(rear rotor is always pushing it to the left to compensate rotation of main rotor

Originally Posted by quizza

Hi Guys! I just got my new F45 a couple of days ago and I'm completely in love. Coming from an s107g coax heli it's nice to have something I can fly outside. I've had a couple of small crashes but nothing major and most importantly nothing broken...so far. lol I have everything configured right and she flies good and hovers great. My only issue is that I notice the body of the heli leans a little to the right. Is this normal? I thought adjusting the swash plate or something might fix it but I've had no success. Makes it a little more difficult to bank a left turn if the body is leaning to the right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the forum! Bought my f45 after reading a lot of information on here.

Thanks Danny

Yup that's normal Danny. Takes a fair bit of practice to get banked left turns down, but it's next to impossible with the f45 as applying rudder cancels out the cyclic.

Check back posts from fauconnier from the last week or so for details.

Cheers
Tigg

Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld

Me thinks a ESC/BL thats built like the kit thats available through aliexpress would be the solution.(of course scaled down) It uses the on board esc to generate the control signal, needing no signal converter. I like the KISS method. Is my long-term hope to get one of them for my 'wild '45 project'
Winds kicked up as the sun started heating things... 15 mph wind gusts is a HOOT to fly in... makes things right exciting
flyin til im dyin

correct me if i am wrong, a motor operating on 11v would draw less current as the same motor doing the same work @ 7.2v... AND if the ESC FET can take the voltage, shouldnt the ESC actually run cooler... as it only has to handle 66% of the current that is drawn @ 7.2 (all leading up to this) the tail esc only switches ground, why cant it be fed from the 11 volt rail? Another reason I was going with the kit is that it is 7.2v, negating the need for more batteries, a spendy charger and so on and so forth

You're correct on the 11.1 volt, less amps with more volts. Also, the motor runs faster. Look on my blog on the F45 page. 2 charts showing the results. The only thing I did not include is the amp draw as it would have made the 20 minute program into days of work.
The brushless conversion for the tail is more complicated. There is no signal other than directly on the board. Moki managed to locate the signal and soldered directly to to outputs on the board. Otherwise, you need a signal converter and the extreme version does not have the right thresh hold to work properly with our boards voltage output. There was a similar problem with 2 Walkera helis, the MasterCP and the V400D02. They are both flybarless, both use the same motor, and similar RXs, but the outputs to the tail are different requiring different signal converters. I really feel when going to all the trouble to convert the main and tail motor to brushless, a new RX, a 10.00 gyro, and a good TX complete the modification. You can get many programable TX/RX combinations for less than 100.00.
The skids I got are from oomodel.com. Any Align compatible skid will do. Just need to drill new 3/16 inch holes to mount the skids over the original pins for mount the stock skids and you need 2 washers to go over the screws on the from skid. The rear has the stabilizer arms going under the skid so washers not required there.

Thanks guys! much appreciated! I'll be sure to read up some more.

Originally Posted by quizza

Hi Guys! I just got my new F45 a couple of days ago and I'm completely in love. Coming from an s107g coax heli it's nice to have something I can fly outside. I've had a couple of small crashes but nothing major and most importantly nothing broken...so far. lol I have everything configured right and she flies good and hovers great. My only issue is that I notice the body of the heli leans a little to the right. Is this normal? I thought adjusting the swash plate or something might fix it but I've had no success. Makes it a little more difficult to bank a left turn if the body is leaning to the right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the forum! Bought my f45 after reading a lot of information on here.

Thanks Danny

Welkies to the best forum about THE BEST 'copter for the buck' Danny. Yes the time taken reading this thread will not be wasted. Alot of good info burried in it. and Yes the bird tilts a wee bit, its normal.
Oh oh OH lads I stumbled upon THE ULTIMATE LED NIGHT FLYING MOD, but... nae, lads, i canna tellit... its simply too good to tellit. I might actually post a wee vid if I can get the 1999 era webcam to cooperate.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

You're correct on the 11.1 volt, less amps with more volts. Also, the motor runs faster. Look on my blog on the F45 page. 2 charts showing the results. The only thing I did not include is the amp draw as it would have made the 20 minute program into days of work.
The brushless conversion for the tail is more complicated. There is no signal other than directly on the board. Moki managed to locate the signal and soldered directly to to outputs on the board. Otherwise, you need a signal converter and the extreme version does not have the right thresh hold to work properly with our boards voltage output. There was a similar problem with 2 Walkera helis, the MasterCP and the V400D02. They are both flybarless, both use the same motor, and similar RXs, but the outputs to the tail are different requiring different signal converters. I really feel when going to all the trouble to convert the main and tail motor to brushless, a new RX, a 10.00 gyro, and a good TX complete the modification. You can get many programable TX/RX combinations for less than 100.00.
The skids I got are from oomodel.com. Any Align compatible skid will do. Just need to drill new 3.16 inch holes to mount the skids over the original pins for mount the stock skids and you need 2 washers to go over the screws on the from skid. The rear has the stabilizer arms going under the skid so washers not required there.

i was refering to how the aliexpress esc gets its signal from the main motor drive connector, not the throttle servo port. Seems to me that a BL esc for the tail motor could be of the same design and solve the BL tailfeathers issue. Just food for thought.
Finally woke up enough to peek outside for a 'wee run'... the bloody wind is outta the north @ 10 mph on the north bld, 200 feet south, the wind is outta the south @ 10 mph... Can you say 'turbulence'. me thinks some indoor time is indicated lol

Originally Posted by BThirsk

The skids I got are from oomodel.com. Any Align compatible skid will do. Just need to drill new 3.16 inch holes to mount the skids over the original pins for mount the stock skids and you need 2 washers to go over the screws on the from skid. The rear has the stabilizer arms going under the skid so washers not required there.

WOW! Not convinced I have a drill bit that big

Thanks for the info, I'll have a look see.
Fin

Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962

WOW! Not convinced I have a drill bit that big

Thanks for the info, I'll have a look see.
Fin

LOL I think thats a 3/16th drill bit.:

There wouldn't be much left of the heli after drilling the holes.

I had the F45 (old style) tx apart the other day, seen the 'antenna' is nothing more than a isotropic radiator... So I took the antenna/connector from a wifi wireless computer adapter and modded it. Now I have a detachable antenna thats 5.1 db gain over the isotropic one. Works out to be 1.7 times the prior output. Yes It has the angled ability like the stock one. Radio range'd it out to 2500 feet (762 m) before I grew weary of fighting the ice/snow... and that was with less than 'fresh' tx batteries. Thats range you can fly as far as you dare and be nowhere near the edge, even in worse case developements. well except for 'submarine flights'... LOL
flyin til i b dyin

Originally Posted by Whizgig

LOL I think thats a 3/16th drill bit.:

There wouldn't be much left of the heli after drilling the holes.

Sorry,slipped. Yes, it is 3/16 inch.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Sorry,slipped. Yes, it is 3/16 inch.

LMAO, and here I was about to dig out my hole saw set LOL

So Bob have ya got some pics of the mod I would like to see how you fixed the aerial to the Tx as I have a few 2.4 and 5.2gig network cards that I can butcher and do the same to mine.