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Old Jan 24, 2013, 06:12 AM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
928 Posts
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Originally Posted by asanovrus View Post
why? I thought it's to protect rear blade from hitting the ground
Yo man, It is there for protection, and I will make a lower fin from 2mm clear lexan to save the blade, clear, so ya wont see it when its flyin.

Frank

And wow, almost at the 400 pg mark
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 06:14 AM
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RCMad39's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Armidale
Joined May 2012
45 Posts
Continued

We're the black wire goes
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 07:33 AM
Flying a Falcon or a RC Heli.
fauconnier's Avatar
Canada, QC, Rimouski
Joined Jul 2012
712 Posts
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Originally Posted by R.C. Man View Post
I do all brushed motor breakin in a glass of water, with 3 drops of mineral oil in the glass, and 3 min. at 1/4 max power volts. 8 volts.....2 volts at 3 min. and so on. 3min 4volts.

Take motor out and blow it dry, let run at 4 volts, and look for sparks,
ya see sparks, add a drop of comm drops on the commutator while spinning from hand, and let it run again. Walla, no sparks...

The water and oil seat the brushes in to the comm. Most brushes are square from the factory, and the runnin in water and oil help to seat them in.

I hope that helps ya Falconman.

Frank
Thank you for you detailed reply, It is quite a ritual. Do you know what will happen if , like most of us, I don't do it ?
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 07:36 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Cool thanks for the pics and where the black wire goes.
I would need V1 as I have the V1 board, but I was thinking of getting another one in the new V2 so I could get one of these kits and a V2 F45.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:13 AM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
928 Posts
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Originally Posted by fauconnier View Post
Thank you for you detailed reply, It is quite a ritual. Do you know what will happen if , like most of us, I don't do it ?
Hi Falconman,
I did it on my F-45, and do alot of hovering with it and short fast lifts,
Heat, hmm I fly for 5-6 min. and motor, front and rear are just warm, not hot.

when ya dont seat the brushes, they have do do it dry as ya fly, and this makes a lot of heat, time, and carbon dust as your brushes dont have full contact on the comm. in the motor, Think of a thin wire, pushing a lot of amps, it gets hot also,
If the brush holder gets hot, than it loses its springyness (tension) and the brushes cant make full contact with the comm. Or just touches the comm. which leads again to heat.
I have never had a problem with brushes or brush holders, but i have melted a couple of endbells in my life, leading to brush caps falling off. If the endbell is made of plastic.

Hope this helps
Frank
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:23 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Originally Posted by War Horse View Post
Bob, dealing with the Chinese is a different matter then what most of us consider good business manors. They dont look at things the way we do and have a very cold, distant attitude towards others, even within their own society (or their own kind).

Google "dealing with the Chinese" its a real eye opener.

I understand your take on this Banggood thing, as I have had some bad dealings with some other Chinese vendors. But as is true in any society you will have shady people to contend with, heck, we even have a few dirt bags here in the good ol USA

Sometimes its just a lesson learned, and there are some really good vendors over there. I mostly stay with HK and endure the wait, at least they are honest and have great customer support.

I am also on a disability budget, so I understand what your going through and dealing with crooks is not acceptable.
(more than a few dirtbags here in the good ole us&a lad...)
I spent a couple hours reading up on the chineese business world... UNREAL... Western ways colide with such on so many levels. Sure did educate me
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:26 AM
Scotsman in Germany
tiggertoo1962's Avatar
Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
1,828 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
And while yur at it loose the AWFUL motor connector and solder motor wires right to the board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
I also run heatsinks on the motors and I replace the wire to the tail motor with solid core wire as well, maybe thats why mine is still running the original motors.
Hey guys, noob alert .

Any chance of a pic showing the wires soldered directly to the board so I can see exactly how you did it?

... and what strength of wire to you use for the motors? Is the standard cable used for house rewires (I think it's just over 1mm solid core) about right for the main motor, and would I need a lighter one for the tail?

Cheers
Fin
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:06 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
348 Posts
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Originally Posted by RCMad39 View Post
We're the black wire goes
the free black wire is battery return, needed because the '45 switches minus (not plus) to the main motor. I guess the reason why they used the main motor circuit to control the BL ESC was to eliminate the servo pulse converter...
I actually like that...
Do post how warm/hot this BL ESC gets after a good 10 min flight
And, is the ESC available seperately? 46.90 seems a bit much for wot I would do (bl200 + this esc)
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:30 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
Hey guys, noob alert .

Any chance of a pic showing the wires soldered directly to the board so I can see exactly how you did it?

... and what strength of wire to you use for the motors? Is the standard cable used for house rewires (I think it's just over 1mm solid core) about right for the main motor, and would I need a lighter one for the tail?

Cheers
Fin
Fin, looking at the bottom of the board on the battery plug end (back end), the battery Plus (red) runs across the entire side, thats the motor + place. The battery - solders to the trace pretty much in the middle back, there are 2 connections on this 'pad', 1 to the huge diode(black cynlindrical device) and the other pin to the motor jack (far side of jack from board). Thats where the motor - goes.
With the tail motor leads, the plus (blue lead) is the same battery bus along the entire end, and the tail motor - lead is the pad with ONLY the tail motor pin attached.
As to wire, #12 awg housewire is a bit much (what you described) I should think some #14 awg or #16 awg will work nicely.
The tail motor wire... I have interior telephone wire (called quad) thats #22 awg and comes in 4 colours and works great (the stock wires, blue is + and white is -) I stripped the tan sheath off and just used the 4 wires (the 2 spare wires are for my LED flashing tail light)
Sorry I dont have a decent digital camera to post pics
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:34 AM
I'd rather be flying
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United States, NY, Saratoga Springs
Joined Jan 2009
1,314 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
The tail motor wire... I have interior telephone wire (called quad) thats #22 awg and comes in 4 colours and works great (the stock wires, blue is + and white is -) I stripped the tan sheath off and just used the 4 wires (the 2 spare wires are for my LED flashing tail light)
Sorry I dont have a decent digital camera to post pics
Bob, What are you using for a flashing LED tail light? Does it help you keep orientation too?
Thanx!
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:46 AM
Scotsman in Germany
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Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
1,828 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
Fin, looking at the bottom of the board on the battery plug end (back end), the battery Plus (red) runs across the entire side, thats the motor + place. The battery - solders to the trace pretty much in the middle back, there are 2 connections on this 'pad', 1 to the huge diode(black cynlindrical device) and the other pin to the motor jack (far side of jack from board). Thats where the motor - goes.
With the tail motor leads, the plus (blue lead) is the same battery bus along the entire end, and the tail motor - lead is the pad with ONLY the tail motor pin attached.
As to wire, #12 awg housewire is a bit much (what you described) I should think some #14 awg or #16 awg will work nicely.
The tail motor wire... I have interior telephone wire (called quad) thats #22 awg and comes in 4 colours and works great (the stock wires, blue is + and white is -) I stripped the tan sheath off and just used the 4 wires (the 2 spare wires are for my LED flashing tail light)
Sorry I dont have a decent digital camera to post pics
Thanks Bob, your description's at least as good as a pic, if not better

Fin
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:49 AM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2013
2 Posts
3 pin camera connector

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottheli View Post
. Also, who has done small LED's to the camera switch? Please tell me how you wired to the pins(with or without a 3pin connector that size) Where can I get that connector? I'd like to be able to swith them on/off in flight.
hi, i'm James got my f45 (645) a few weeks ago and have had many fun flights with it when the weather and work has allowed, and have almost finished reading this complete thread when it hasnt (up to page 376)

i hope you find this info useful:-
the cable that will fit staight into the camera plug on pcb is i think is called a 'molex picoblade' but i'm not sure
i do however know its a 1.25mm pitch, 3 pin connector and i ordered this,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1609474017...84.m1439.l2649

they have just arrived today and fit perfectly(see picture) its a shame that you have to order 10 but couldnt find any listing for less if anyone in uk wants one i'm happy to send
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:52 AM
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Ukraine, Crimea, Bakhchysarai
Joined Mar 2012
1,554 Posts
My new F45 just arrived. Even though on pictures (aliexpress) was V1 the one that came is V2. So I have incompatible transmitters. It flies perfect right out of the box well balanced and it has camera that shoots without jello. Unfortunately camera is rather disappointing 640x480 with 5Mbps bitrate. I think I'll sell the new one as I don't want to have 2 twin transmitters that imcompatible. I bought them with camera and 1600mah LiPo battery not to order separatelly, but the bird is so beautiful compared to my old modified one(I made only negative modification e.g. cut canopy, remove bells/whisles from tail.
Plus made loops on rotorhead(I removed the bolt from rotorstick and inserted thick wire in the hole of bolt and then shaped as loops so no glue/soldering was needed.
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Last edited by asanovrus; Jan 24, 2013 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 10:10 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
348 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by baddb1 View Post
Bob, What are you using for a flashing LED tail light? Does it help you keep orientation too?
Thanx!
Badd I found them tire valve flashing LED lights (the kind you screw on the tire valve) work perfectly. The plastic housing was a perfect fit after I sanded off the battery end threads, its the same diameter as the motor housing. A couple turns of cheap packing tape (the thin tan stuff) holds it securely (and a black sharpie colors the tape) It looks factory done. (and holds my 'catfood tin heatsink tight)
And yes, the blue flashing tail, plus the white headlight makes this bird easily flyable at night. (I have to be able to fly at night, its when the winds are calmer)
My next 'light mod'... I found some cheap clipon LED bike/pedestrian flashing lights that have 5 bright leds interior... gonna see about an 'under tail boom' array. The tire led assy is powered by 2 'button' batteries, so just put a 1,000 ohm 1/2 watt in series with the minus lead and go fly in the dark. These draw almost no current, so powering them 24-7 wont be an issue.
Scroll a few pages back, I posted a way to get power to the rototating wing, without alot of expense. (no batteries or huge weights rotating) You will love it
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 10:11 AM
Scotsman in Germany
tiggertoo1962's Avatar
Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
1,828 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
Thanks Bob, your description's at least as good as a pic, if not better

Fin
... on the same topic...

do you also hard wire with solid core when you're doing the brushless conversion or does the cabling cease to be an issue then?

Reason I'm asking is that I have a 2nd F45 coming which I want to do the BL mod on and already have 2 spare motors on the way for my 1st F45 which I hope would do me til I have the BL finished. Once my first BL is finished I want to convert the other one, so don't know if the hard wire mod is worth the effort or if I should just swop out the motor a couple of times.

Fin
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