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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
Also here in Australia we get allot less for our dollar than you do in the US as an example we pay $1.80 au for 1 liter of petrol which is $2.00 us where you pay that for a gallon of petrol as far as I know, correct me if I am wrong.

Also heli's etc are cheaper in the US then here as well and not to mention the cost of postage for us if we buy anything in the US for example I wanted to buy a heli and it was in the US the cost of it was $49.00 us and the postage was $165.00 us which is an outrages amount to have to pay.
Whiz I appreciate your kindness... a great deal of this is quite new to me and I dont understand the need for such charges. Amazon.com (and its partner sellers) have yet to charge any such hidden charges. Didnt even need a paypal account until i was forced to go to ebay, as amazon/its partners accepted my amex plastic without question.
BTW petrol is over 4 usd here,(4.29 today) and in parts of the state a gallon will set you back 8+ dollars (i seen it 12 dollars a gallon up north) even funnier we pump the mess outta alaskan ground, refine it in an alaskan refinery, and still pay the highest prices in america.

I tried to order a main motor heatsink... 2.45 usd for the heatsink... when i seen the shipping i ... 17 and change... for a part that didnt weigh 10 gms. Believe me i know the feeling... alaska isnt considered america by the shippers, we here get gouged regularly (the replacement tail motor assy went to pureto rico from california... then back and on to alaska)
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
It will help with the motor running cooler which will extend the life of the motor to a degree, but what allot of people on this and many other forums forget is that the motor will heat up mainly due to the current drawn through the tiny thin wire that comes from the board to the motor.
If you change the wire from core wire to solid copper wire it will greatly reduce the heat in the motor as well, and far more than putting on a heat sink.
Because the solid wire can take allot more current so it reduces the heat to virtually nothing being sent to the motor by the wire itself as this is where most of the heat comes from that heats up the motor.

It will also reduce the heat in the PCB as well.

Wire acts like a hose the thicker the hose the more current can pass through it and allot less friction so allot less heat, the smaller the hose allot less current allot more friction allot more heat even before it gets to the motor.

An easy check for this is to start up your heli and hold the wires going to the motor, they will get hot way before the motor gets hot.
BLOODY WELL SAID Whiz... its 'I squared R' losses. And while yur at it loose the AWFUL motor connector and solder motor wires right to the board. That cheezy motor connector will barely carry 5 amps for any time. Thats what I did... and... I am in the process of moving the ESC FET to the alum frame plate as it cannot dissipate anywhere near the 150 watts as described on the data sheet without heatsinking (is why i asked about to-220 fets, they have a mounting hole)

and yes i think the heatsinks do help, i published rate of rise results a page or 50 back (even after 11 min flight-time my main motor temp was only 111 degrees f with a r.o.r. of some 7.75 degrees per min) Made my heatsinks outta alum kitty food cans (and saved some 17+ dollars shipping)
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:44 AM
Eugene
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Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
BLOODY WELL SAID Whiz... its 'I squared R' losses. And while yur at it loose the AWFUL motor connector and solder motor wires right to the board. That cheezy motor connector will barely carry 5 amps for any time. Thats what I did... and... I am in the process of moving the ESC FET to the alum frame plate as it cannot dissipate anywhere near the 150 watts as described on the data sheet without heatsinking (is why i asked about to-220 fets, they have a mounting hole)

and yes i think the heatsinks do help, i published rate of rise results a page or 50 back (even after 11 min flight-time my main motor temp was only 111 degrees f with a r.o.r. of some 7.75 degrees per min) Made my heatsinks outta alum kitty food cans (and saved some 17+ dollars shipping)
Hi Bob,

You can heatsink the Fets with flat heatsinks as I have done and yes solder the motor wire to the PCB the plug is useless, in fact I am amazed that the plug doesn't melt with the heat from the wire.

I also run heatsinks on the motors and I replace the wire to the tail motor with solid core wire as well, maybe thats why mine is still running the original motors.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:55 AM
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Yea, that main motor plug would barely do the tail motor... and the tail motor plug is good for perhaps .5 - 1 amp for any time. I forgot to post I changed the micro wires going to the tail motor too.
I am pretty sure that a thermo probe would show a gastly amount of hot spots on a 'stock' setup
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:03 AM
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Now I am wondering if the crap aftermarket 2200 ma battery was responsible for the FET's untimely death, as it died pretty much the very same day I discovered the battery's failure. And yes, i had a tin-can heatsink on it too.(could tell it had been rather hot, it was purple and mostly unsoldered itself) I dont recall much on the main FET dying.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:04 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
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Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
Yea, that main motor plug would barely do the tail motor... and the tail motor plug is good for perhaps .5 - 1 amp for any time. I forgot to post I changed the micro wires going to the tail motor too.
I am pretty sure that a thermo probe would show a gastly amount of hot spots on a 'stock' setup
Yep that it would.
My motors get warm but not hot that you would burn yourself with, and I think my batteries last longer with the setup I have but I'm not 100% sure on that as I haven't timed a flight for a long time.
I do this with all of my heli's even my micro's.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:07 AM
Eugene
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Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
Now I am wondering if the crap aftermarket 2200 ma battery was responsible for the FET's untimely death, as it died pretty much the very same day I discovered the battery's failure. And yes, i had a tin-can heatsink on it too.(could tell it had been rather hot, it was purple and mostly unsoldered itself) I dont recall much on the main FET dying.
Yep it could have ran at full burst and blew the FET.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:12 AM
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as to them that 'cast the first stone'... my P&m taught me 'sticks and stones may break my bones, however words will never harm me'. take a lesson from that
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:43 AM
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It has to do with circular mils/amp. In the motor rewinding world we used 750 circ mils/amp. Mind you this is continous duty rating. Often times I would rewind with smaller wire, using more of them 'in hand' with the same results.(I liked to add a few c/m, making my rewinds better) Stranded wire reduces 'skin effect' (where the electrons mostly move on the skin of the conductor) which I believe is only really valid with high frequency AC. (is why BL ESC wires are stranded)
I pulled MILES of cable/wire in my time.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:55 AM
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and while we at it... take a close look at the solder connections associated with the high current circuits (Battery-Main motor-Tail motor). If them solder connections look greyish or appear to have crystals/bumps within, they are NOT good solder connections. A good connection is always bright with no appearance of bumps/crystals/ect. The '45 board is loaded with poor solder connections. If the rx/decoder sections work, dont bother them much... The motor circuit connections will rejoice with good sound solder connections... (and so will you )
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by R.C. Man View Post
Well, I did a bit of work today,
Fixed my skids on my f-45 so they will NEVER break again....
Made em outa .5 mm stainless, Dare them suckers to break again,(bend, OK, I can bend em back )

Also turned the tail fin around to create the shark fin look.

Have to watch out for the rear landings, but the look is cool.

My Airwolf Fusalage is on the back burner, cause I wanna FLY my bird.
The paint will be sprayed tomarrow, after masking off the windows and stuff.

Yall can give comments , good or bad.
The pic..

Take care yall

Frank Von Hellsing
Is that wing on tail looking up on your picture?
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 04:01 AM
Eugene
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Originally Posted by asanovrus View Post
Is that wing on tail looking up on your picture?
Its the Tail fin turned upside down
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 04:06 AM
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Its the Tail fin turned upside down
why? I thought it's to protect rear blade from hitting the ground
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 04:28 AM
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why? I thought it's to protect rear blade from hitting the ground
He wanted it to have a shark look effect and yes it is there to protect the tail rotor as he said he has to be careful when landing but it looks cool and he likes it.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 05:10 AM
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Australia, NSW, Armidale
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Aliexpress BL conversion

Well all good so far and it handles like a dream . Here is the link just make sure you have a v2 although there is a v1 as well http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/210962347.html
Uploaded some pics of it but excuse the tape on the battery holder as waiting for a new battery tray and I am experimenting with higher amp batteries
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