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Old Jan 15, 2013, 03:51 PM
Flying a Falcon or a RC Heli.
fauconnier's Avatar
Canada, QC, Rimouski
Joined Jul 2012
670 Posts
I read on the F47 blog that the F47 cancel the elev/aile. movement when rudder is asked. I check , it is true. But did you know that a F45 does the same ! The rudder cancel any elev/aile move ! That explain the sliding and probably the ease to fly.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hawaiichopper View Post
Hi All,
Just wanted to say thanks for all the great information on this thread. The second F45 was sold today, with all the trimmings. Sorry to see it go, but my smaller flying space dictated the move. However, I will be messing with other MJX products as they are really the sturdiest beasts for the price. As the tinkering progresses, I'll relate the progress via a note to check other threads. Besides, I have to keep track of the adventures of OldOz and Arrowshooter! Who knows, I might end up in a place with more flying room again.
Regards,
Allan
Box arrived today, in perfect condition. Allan THANKS for such a sweet deal (she flies perfectly too)
Got a decent first flight vid (thank F**K the cam wasnt working when i flew into myself LMAO)
seems (on my red one) i got something bent on the main rotor assy, the swashplate doesnt just sit flat when the main rotor is spun... could it be feathering shaft? (she has some vibrations too)
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by baddb1 View Post
Looking forward to my F45 from you Allan! This will be my second F45 and I feel better knowing I have a spare to fly after my little incident the other day. I hate the thought of having to wait for parts from china and not being able to fly for weeks!

On another note, any good ideas for being able to see the orientation of the heli easier? Is it worth the trouble to add some LED's maybe?
Hey baddb welkies to the best forum about the finest 300 class copter.
I found that them tire valve stem flashing LEDS mod nicely as 'running lights'. Mounted my single tirestem light (in its domed housing) on the back side of the tail motor plastic housing... Looks factory done (and rather sharp) I got a post back a few pages with specifics. Another lad dun a tail shaft LED install that has promise. My next lighting project... main rotor lights
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 05:00 PM
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I built pontoons for my '45 outta a length of 1/2 inch closed cell pipe insulation. BE SURE to use the closed cell foam, it wont fill up with water like a sponge) I modded the CRAP landing gear with 1/8th inch steal rod (cut 2 lengths measuring 10", marked @ 1", 4", 6", 9") Bend the 4" and 6" mark to 45 degrees, the 1" ends (feet) are bent as reqd to your tastes. Mounted them with oversized washers. Tywrapped the legs to lengths of 1/2" THINWALL PVC pipe. The insulation slips on and really needs no additional glue. I like how the tywrap in the end makes the insulation form 'lips'. And how the copter sits up taller, with a wider stanch. It looks alaskan now LOL
yes lads I know you want piccys, i am working on getting a camera
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tomsx View Post
Hi guys

I'm a newb to this game from the UK and bought a cheap F45 to start flying. Whats a good spare battery to buy with a bit more life? it's completely standard..
hey Tom welkies to the ONLY f45 forum.
I found the 2200 ma LiPo sold by techntoys.com fits without removing ANY tabs and is smaller than the stock battery in length, making the balancing so much easier. (just slide the battery foward to shift the C.O.G.)
It is marketed as MJX F645 Upgrade 7.4v 2200mah Battery
I get easily 2 each 7-8 min flights... and can go 11 min with minumal loss in headspeed. The colder temps here sure do help
I dont like cutting battery boxes, once cut you cannot 'uncut it'
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 05:19 PM
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OH Tom I forgot the other nice thing, the 2200 ma battery weighs 16 grams LESS than the stock battery, so you get more for less
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 08:33 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Radio recovery -
Thought I'd have to go down a slightly different road, but seems this might do the job:
The idea -
http://www.instructables.com/id/433-...-radio-beacon/
The Hardware -
http://www.wiltronics.com.au/catalog...ji-ask-modules
And has the advantage of being both very cheap and legal (mine was simpler, but wasn't). A yagi constructed from measuring tape, no less!
Determined not to lose another heli - this gear seems the best bet so far. Any other ideas yet? (well, that would give recovery AFTER loss of bind!).

PS: the replacement full BL takes shape (still have the brushed tail F45/450, don't want to experiment with that) -
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Last edited by OldOz; Jan 15, 2013 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 08:59 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Tail Motors - and other spares.
Tried to like RChelicopter7, but China Post only <$100 killed it for me. Went with this mob -
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/MJX-R...566349751.html
Have been pretty good so far, and only $1 dearer. - touch wood!
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 09:37 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Radio recovery -
Thought I'd have to go down a slightly different road, but seems this might do the job:
The idea -
http://www.instructables.com/id/433-...-radio-beacon/
The Hardware -
http://www.wiltronics.com.au/catalog...ji-ask-modules
And has the advantage of being both very cheap and legal (mine was simpler, but wasn't). A yagi constructed from measuring tape, no less!
Determined not to lose another heli - this gear seems the best bet so far. Any other ideas yet? (well, that would give recovery AFTER loss of bind!).

PS: the replacement full BL takes shape (still have the brushed tail F45/450, don't want to experiment with that) -
Without understanding how this stuff gets used my first impression based on the first Link with the ongoing updates is that this is exactly what we'll need! I'm looking at setting up a separate power source for my lighting and could use that to power the beacon as well.

How does one use the Rx to track the location? Does it emit a sound based on signal strength?

I just noticed the extra pages... An interesting read!
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Last edited by rexless; Jan 15, 2013 at 09:46 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 09:49 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
Without understanding how this stuff gets used my first impression based on the first Link with the ongoing updates is that this is exactly what we'll need! I'm looking at setting up a separate power source for my lighting and could use that to power the beacon as well.

How does one use the Rx to track the location? Does it emit a sound based on signal strength?
Sound OR LED brightness it seems, Rexless.
DF is based on a small yagi antenna, point it for max signal. I'll send for the bits fairly soon, and try a mockup: just a bloody shame I didn't follow this idea up when I was on my 'vacation' over Xmas. Preferably before I lost that full BL heli lol.
Get back as soon as I've got something to report: or maybe Bob (with similar electronics background, but much more time) could jump in first .
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 10:53 PM
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Hi, what is the paper clip mod I have been rading on this thread? Seems I cant understand them...would someone care to explain on how to do it please and with pics please..... thanks.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 11:24 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
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Originally Posted by nolivy View Post
Hi, what is the paper clip mod I have been rading on this thread? Seems I cant understand them...would someone care to explain on how to do it please and with pics please..... thanks.
The basic idea is to take a standard (or, preferably, one size up) paper clip and carefully shape it round the dogbone guide as per the picture. It tedious, but should be a neat fit and stay in place without help when you finish.
Then carefully go round the upper and lower parerclip/plasic join with 5 min epoxy - making sure none gets in the guide slots, of course.

I usually solder the 2 loose ends together as well, but this isn't really essential.
Also - I have done the job without removing the rotor head, just a bit more awkward.
Hope this helps! (FWIW, put it on my Blog, as well).
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 12:46 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
The basic idea is to take a standard (or, preferably, one size up) paper clip and carefully shape it round the dogbone guide as per the picture. It tedious, but should be a neat fit and stay in place without help when you finish.
Then carefully go round the upper and lower parerclip/plasic join with 5 min epoxy - making sure none gets in the guide slots, of course.

I usually solder the 2 loose ends together as well, but this isn't really essential.
Also - I have done the job without removing the rotor head, just a bit more awkward.
Hope this helps! (FWIW, put it on my Blog, as well).
Thanks, so I need to take off the upper assembly right?
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 01:40 AM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Originally Posted by nolivy View Post
Thanks, so I need to take off the upper assembly right?
It is easier if you do.
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 01:42 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nolivy View Post
Thanks, so I need to take off the upper assembly right?
IME, it's a lot easier - just one screw really. But I've done it both ways .

Edit: if you do take one (or both) blades off while doing this mod, make sure you don't accidentally drop the feathering shaft out when you're tipping the rotor assembly around. It happens!
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Last edited by OldOz; Jan 16, 2013 at 01:52 AM.
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