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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:37 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Wonderful F 45 won't fly anymore :-(

Got mine in early December. Last 3 helis were V911s (all lost).
NICE to have a larger heli that can actually FLY with velocity and beat the wind.

I've already worn out THREE tail motors. I fly this thing a LOT and LOVE IT. I apparently learned a lot from the V911! I DON'T CRASH.

But after one very long and high flight - it seemed to run out of battery and subsequently - after charging - it failed to climb. It would only maintain for a while, then sink to the ground. Can only fly in 'ground effect'.

I bought an E Sky 370 motor for a Honeybee FP - thinking that was the answer. But it flies the exact same way. Does anyone have a solution? I've tried new battery with same lame result. Could the old motor be bad AND the Esky motor bee inappropriate? Perhaps my main board? At full power it delivers 3 volts to the motor. (I just discovered that the Honeybee FP 2 is a three cell 11 volt system BTW....) But a 370 is a 370, right?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
Welkies to the forum Scott. You made the right choice, the F45 is literally 'fly right outta the box' stable. AND when ya do break it, replacement parts are reasonable, and available. I cannot stress enough 'THIS ONE NEEDS LOTS OF SPACE' so keep that in mind. As to mods, really all you need is the aftermarket 2200 ma LiPo battery (it is lighter than the stock battery AND has more output, fits right in the stock battery box too), trading the servo horns, and shimming the main rotor blade play. Total cost, 20 usd for the battery and 3 bucks for the hole reinforcement 'rings'.

BTW what part of mississippi? I am from Tupelo (keyword FROM) now in Anchorage Alaska
I am in Gulfport, Mississippi
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:11 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Thanks, I will not try this one in the garage, maybe hover in the front yard, check it out a pack or two, then do all the cheap easy mods and spring for a battery, off to the field every chance, were the stock motors out, then get the brushless kit and see how much power and flight time improvement that does, attempt some banked turns, then possibly put a light weight fuselage on it because I really do like the scale look on helis. Heck, the first time I ever saw a pod and boom r/c heli, I thought it was flying robot, but now I like them too. CHEERS TO ALL!
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:16 PM
Different fly 4 different guy
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Canada, BC, Salmon Arm
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wavy View Post
Got mine in early December. Last 3 helis were V911s (all lost).
NICE to have a larger heli that can actually FLY with velocity and beat the wind.

I've already worn out THREE tail motors. I fly this thing a LOT and LOVE IT. I apparently learned a lot from the V911! I DON'T CRASH.

But after one very long and high flight - it seemed to run out of battery and subsequently - after charging - it failed to climb. It would only maintain for a while, then sink to the ground. Can only fly in 'ground effect'.

I bought an E Sky 370 motor for a Honeybee FP - thinking that was the answer. But it flies the exact same way. Does anyone have a solution? I've tried new battery with same lame result. Could the old motor be bad AND the Esky motor bee inappropriate? Perhaps my main board? At full power it delivers 3 volts to the motor. (I just discovered that the Honeybee FP 2 is a three cell 11 volt system BTW....) But a 370 is a 370, right?
Stock motors that are worked hard can fail as early as 30 flights, while some go 2x or 3x or even longer.

The HBFP motor will NOT operate the F45.

Althought MJX helis do have LVC it is still not a good idea to run them that low - it greatly reduces their life. Also make sure you always follow proper lipo guidelines of fly - cool - charge - cool - fly for both the battery and the brushed motor. A onboard low voltage alarm is about $3, also a good idea.

If you have not already done so, get the 2000mah 20c receiver battery from Hobby King, just clip the tray tabs to install.

Upgrade battery here.

Adjustable voltage alarm here.

regards . . . g
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
(dances into the room...) YESSSSSSS it arrived this am. The wife's eyes were as big as mine, seems I have been having so much fun with the v911 (and the smart look of the F45 sure didnt hurt) that SHE WANTS ONE. Please dont awake me from this dream, it is MUCH TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE...
Anyways, I am doing the simple mods (shims, control horn, swashplate ect) before I take 'er up... No camera, it was destroyed and I was refunded... Got such a deal on the replacement I got a complete tail assy also.
The 2.2 Ah LiPoly is LIGHTER than the stock Li-ion... should make for some added punch

Guess I best get her's ordered before this dream ends (or she changes her mind) huh
Got no camera so i will have to tellit vocally... perhaps this after
Yep, these F45s are great helicopters. I hope that 2200 works for you. The one I got overheated terribly. Do check yours for safety's sake. If you are wanting a used F45 in excellent shape with lipo batteries, I have one for sale. Decided to keep F45 number 2 even though my yard is now too small (OldOz was correct) - just can't let go totally.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonzo View Post
Stock motors that are worked hard can fail as early as 30 flights, while some go 2x or 3x or even longer.

The HBFP motor will NOT operate the F45.

Althought MJX helis do have LVC it is still not a good idea to run them that low - it greatly reduces their life. Also make sure you always follow proper lipo guidelines of fly - cool - charge - cool - fly for both the battery and the brushed motor. A onboard low voltage alarm is about $3, also a good idea.

If you have not already done so, get the 2000mah 20c receiver battery from Hobby King, just clip the tray tabs to install.

Upgrade battery here.

Adjustable voltage alarm here.

regards . . . g
I sure agree with g. Unless you go brushless, using non-stock motors won't net you much. Heavy use wears out the motors and stock ones are cheap. Just replace and keep flyin'!
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:00 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Got to say, am pretty mind boggled too. Most I've ever had is 80 (equivalent) flights on any MJX motor: and you must be WELL over your 500 by now, Whizgig.
Maybe a special/developmental motor set?
I don't know how many in total but yes well over 500 8-10min flights, I don't fly aggressive though more real life flying.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:28 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
The problem I do still have is a "wobble" on the head,

Greetz to all, and happy flying
Tigg
Hi I would look at the inner shaft blade pins I would say one of them are broken.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:38 AM
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Joined Mar 2012
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When my last tail motor went out I noticed the same symptom. The tail acted like it just didn't want to cooperate. Full power resulted in unintended heading changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollmops67 View Post
At my last flights, I noticed that sometimes, when I wanted to do right turns (this is the side where the tail rotor has to turn faster to conteract the main rotor torque), the helicopter had problems and hesitations to turn, as if the thrust from the tail rotor didn't suffice.
This tail motor has about 50 flights, and this is corresponding to the average live span of my tail motors.

My last tail motor failure led to a bad crash ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3882 ), so I decided to change the motor before.
I opened the old one, and in fact, one of the carbon brushes was gone, so the collector on the motor's rotor of began to touch the brass arm where the brush was mounted to.
I think in less than 10 flights I would have had problems.
So I think from now I will change the tail motor every 50 flights.

Roland
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:13 AM
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Guys... these are MASSED PRODUCED, meaning there will be a (USUALLY HIGH) failure rate. Secondarily, I'd bet Whiz flies like I do, putting around... nawt trying to break the sound-barrier. I havent looked inside one of the motors yet, I'd bet they are lucky to stay together as long as they do... 10 bucks for a main motor is CHEAP
And taking a break after 6-7 min of 'this has to be illegal, its so much fun' isnt so bad huh
P.S. the wife still wants her's... Hawaii make me a deal I cannot refuse
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonzo View Post
Stock motors that are worked hard can fail as early as 30 flights, while some go 2x or 3x or even longer.

The HBFP motor will NOT operate the F45.

Althought MJX helis do have LVC it is still not a good idea to run them that low - it greatly reduces their life. Also make sure you always follow proper lipo guidelines of fly - cool - charge - cool - fly for both the battery and the brushed motor. A onboard low voltage alarm is about $3, also a good idea.

If you have not already done so, get the 2000mah 20c receiver battery from Hobby King, just clip the tray tabs to install.

Upgrade battery here.

Adjustable voltage alarm here.

regards . . . g

Ok - thanks for the info. I''ve got a 2200 mAh 30c lipo 'brick' that I'll try to fit in there and I already have a voltage alarm. (It's fixed - but works quite well - has warning indicators for low voltage and LOUD peizo-horns for critical. It weighs 7g - dont' know about the adjustable one - but I will not buy from banggood if I don't have to.)

Looks like I gotta buy another motor.... anyone need a Honeybee FP 370 motor?
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Last edited by wavy; Jan 08, 2013 at 01:35 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:32 AM
Scotsman in Germany
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Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
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head wobble

Thanks for all the advice guys .

My thoughts are to start trouble-shooting from the top down (but The Wife is still sleeping, so I'll have to wait a while ). Going to remove the cap, try the flybar again, then change the blades (although the old ones seemed OK when I took them off to clean and shim them).

If I get down that far and still have problems I reckon Eugene's suggestion (inner shaft blade pins) would be next. Anyone have a detailled description - or better still, a photo - of what they are, as I can't see anything obvious which I would label with that description

Greetz
Tigg
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:37 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Thanks for the reminder Roland, I personally monitor my LiPo's when charging them. (I seen a computer that literally burst into flames from a grumpy lipo)
The 2200 ma I got was actually a bit smaller than the stock Li-ion AND weighs less by (i think) 15 gm. It is the MJX F645 replacement battery sold by techNToys, $27.64 (including shipping to Ak) sold through Amazon. (and I got it in 7 days, not the 11 they said)
The copter LEAPS off the ground with it and I easily get 2 each 7-10 min flight times, without risk to the motor/battery.
Cant beat Amazon for sorting defective/damaged/destroyed orders.
Last week I was waiting for the post... this week I wait on the bloody batteries to charge... the joys of a R/C JUNKIE
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:39 AM
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Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
1,435 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld View Post
(dances into the room...) YESSSSSSS it arrived this am. The wife's eyes were as big as mine, seems I have been having so much fun with the v911 (and the smart look of the F45 sure didnt hurt) that SHE WANTS ONE. Please dont awake me from this dream, it is MUCH TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE...
Anyways, I am doing the simple mods (shims, control horn, swashplate ect) before I take 'er up... No camera, it was destroyed and I was refunded... Got such a deal on the replacement I got a complete tail assy also.
The 2.2 Ah LiPoly is LIGHTER than the stock Li-ion... should make for some added punch

Guess I best get her's ordered before this dream ends (or she changes her mind) huh
Got no camera so i will have to tellit vocally... perhaps this after
Firstly Bob (and Scott) welcome to the F45 world . I'm sure you'll have just as much fun as the rest of us here.

I ordered 2x 2000 mAh batteries along with mine which are also lighter than my stock 1500 (94g as opposed to 96g). The stock battery has a sticker on it saying "cautions for Li-po battery pack", but I suppose from what I've been reading it'll also be a Li-ion. How would you tell the difference for sure?

Also when fully charged (they've only been through 2 full cycles so far) my stock battery has both cells at 4.16V but one of the 2000mAh has one cell at 4.14V and the other at 4.16V, and the other shows 4.09V and 4.14V. Is this too far out of whack? I reckon a 0.02V difference might be alright, but 0.05V? Maybe after a few cycles they'll even out?

Cheers
Tigg
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:35 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
Thanks for all the advice guys .

My thoughts are to start trouble-shooting from the top down (but The Wife is still sleeping, so I'll have to wait a while ). Going to remove the cap, try the flybar again, then change the blades (although the old ones seemed OK when I took them off to clean and shim them).

If I get down that far and still have problems I reckon Eugene's suggestion (inner shaft blade pins) would be next. Anyone have a detailled description - or better still, a photo - of what they are, as I can't see anything obvious which I would label with that description

Greetz
Tigg
Hi Tigg,
Here ya go: F45 Inner Shaft
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