Originally Posted by Zarrick

Isnt enough to use one 2S battery along with the EH200? Many people say that even the EH200 with 2S battery is not running at full power its still much more powerfull than the stock solution. And with 2000mAh battery it can last in the air almost 20min. Sure, the 3S battery gives some bonus power but there is + weight because the second battery. How long lasts that 500mAh 2S? What are the advantages of using two batteries (2S + 3S)?

I have the EH200 with an 9T pinion, the rest is standard, for me this is the ideal setup and easy to install.
The F45 does get a lot more powerfull, even with the 9T pinion, I hardly use full throttle, only to get out of trouble.
The stock 1500mAh 7.4V battery gives about 10 minutes of flighttime, this is with an 808 #16 camera attached (weight 25gr), I haven't noticed a drop in power as some reported but I guess If you fly mostly at full throttle you will notice loss of power with this setup.

Regards

If I will use the ADH300XL (5250KV) with a 8T pinion, the rotors will spin 2158rpm. Almost the same if I use the EH200 with 10T pinion (2107rpm). Only the ADH300XL will drain the battery pretty much faster and will need a stronger ESC.

Well , its been fun in here, but I'm gettin dizzy. I think I'll just enjoy my F45 as is and replace the occasional cheap motor. I,ll check in from time to time and see how you guys are making out with your 'improvements'.

Good bunch of guys in here, take care and have fun flying and moding. Later

Originally Posted by Zarrick

If I will use the ADH300XL (5250KV) with a 8T pinion, the rotors will spin 2158rpm. Almost the same if I use the EH200 with 10T pinion (2107rpm). Only the ADH300XL will drain the battery pretty much faster and will need a stronger ESC.

If I had not had issues with ESCs going into soft cutoff after about 4 minutes of hard flying, I probably would have been satisfied with the 2s battery setup. It had enough power and speed. Try the 2s setup and if it works for you, no need to go 3s. In my case, I had the same issue with several different ESCs, so I tried the 3s with an 800mah battery and the problem went away. I got almost 6 minutes with that little battery before it got weak but never had the soft shutdown occur.

MJX F45: fly outdoor with camera #4 (12 min 41 sec)

hey guys check out my MJX f45 video. I'm using non stock battery and keychain camera to record.

Can anyone help with servo mod? Like to improve the response of the same. If anyone can help, thank you very much!

I'm using the AEORC 20amp with the EH200 and I don't recall any sort of soft cut-off with it using the 2s 2000mah battery. It's been quite some time since I programmed it so perhaps I don't have this feature or it works differently? I do remember there being some sort of voltage protection option. Now that it's set up I haven't had to touch the programming since.

Great video - I see you like skimming the ground too eh?

Originally Posted by Junior Basilio

Can anyone help with servo mod? Like to improve the response of the same. If anyone can help, thank you very much!

All that is modified on the servos is to move the link on the servo are one hole further out from the center. You can do this on the AIL arm easily, but you need a new arm for the ELV servo. On that one, you have to cut the arm off just after the new hole you are using to clear the frame. It's a very simple mod to do. Just make sure when pulling off the servo arms that the heli is powered off. You need to power it up before putting on the arms to center the servos. Put the arms on and power down before tightening the servo screws so as not to damaged the servos.

Could someone do me a favour and measure the camera port outputs.
I believe one is ground and one is 5 volts.
It is the signal that I am not sure of. What are the voltages and is it constant when the camera is enabled in the TX.
I don't have the stock RX and am going to hook up to the 6 channel RX I am now using.

ps. For anyone running a different RX with external gyro, let your gyro aclimatize before flying in cold weather. I flew mine the other day and went right from inside a warm house to -5C outside. Everything was great for about 4 minutes until the gryo went nuts and the heli became a top. I read up on the temperature effect and it was suggested at least 15 minutes was required for large temperature adjustments.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

All that is modified on the servos is to move the link on the servo are one hole further out from the center. You can do this on the AIL arm easily, but you need a new arm for the ELV servo. On that one, you have to cut the arm off just after the new hole you are using to clear the frame. It's a very simple mod to do. Just make sure when pulling off the servo arms that the heli is powered off. You need to power it up before putting on the arms to center the servos. Put the arms on and power down before tightening the servo screws so as not to damaged the servos.

BThirsk, It can be a simple modification, but I can not understand how to do! Please if you can give me some instructions thank you very much! I know lots of questions, but I saw that it is a good change and I do it too! Have any picture of your servant, you can post that nitida is that I see, so would be easier! If it is not asking too much!

Another thing, you asked for the measurements, I do not know if certain measures, but goes into the connector is approximately 3mm x 3mm

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Here is the video of my first flight with my MJX F45. I know it's not to see it fly because it is the camera, but I wanted to share! =)

Another thing, I realize that to turn to one side, if I'm not mistaken, contrary to helice back, he does not turn well! Is this normal?

1º Voo MJX F-45/645 - RCGroups.com (6 min 18 sec)

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Could someone do me a favour and measure the camera port outputs. I believe one is ground and one is 5 volts.
It is the signal that I am not sure of. What are the voltages and is it constant when the camera is enabled in the TX. I don't have the stock RX and am going to hook up to the 6 channel RX I am now using.

Looking at the left side by the camera connector, pins from left to right.
Camera off
Pin 1 negative Pin 2 positive voltage 4.95v
Pin 1 with Pin 3 shows -0.04v
Pin 2 positive Pin 3 negative voltage 5.00v

Camera on
Pin 1 negative Pin 2 positive voltage 1.68v
Pin 1 with Pin 3 shows 3.31v
Pin 2 positive Pin 3 negative voltage 5.00v

I'm not sure if I'm doing this correctly or not, but that's what I get.

Originally Posted by Junior Basilio

BThirsk, It can be a simple modification, but I can not understand how to do! Please if you can give me some instructions thank you very much! I know lots of questions, but I saw that it is a good change and I do it too! Have any picture of your servant, you can post that nitida is that I see, so would be easier! If it is not asking too much!

Another thing, you asked for the measurements, I do not know if certain measures, but goes into the connector is approximately 3mm x 3mm

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Look at this picture. See the white servo arm. Gordonzo has the link from the swash plate in the outer hole in the servo arm. If you look at yours, it is in the forth hole from the center. Most of use have only moved it out to the fifth hole, but that depends on where the servo starts to bind . I would just move the link to the fifth hole from the center.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=10

10A ESC will be enough for the EH200? Or 12-15A at least?

Originally Posted by Zarrick

10A ESC will be enough for the EH200? Or 12-15A at least?

Click on BThirst name and you will see the 18A ESC. This rating allows the device to operate cooler if I understand correctly.

Thanks!