Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by padge993 View Post
The noise is from the TX. I tried turning of all wireless devices with the last PCB with no luck but i will try again. Here are some photos BTW does everything look in order?
Funny thing is when i unplug the battery from the chopper and do the binding sequence it still gives a long beep from the TX. When i had the last PCB wired in every time i moved the TX sticks i could see the CHs change. Not the case with this one.
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Last edited by padge993; Nov 26, 2012 at 06:15 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:12 PM
Starting in R/C Helicopters
Brazil, MT, Juara
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Yes, you need to get some different Main blades. I use the extreme 10 degree fiber/plastic blades. I think some of the guys tried a honey blade, but I have not. Stock blades have too much pitch and are too flexible for this combination.
I understand.
Good, then I'll look for these blades to be able to do a test! The problem for me is that everything I buy direct from hobbyking.com or banggood.com, and as I live in Brazil, it takes around 30 to 35 days to get here.

I have already ordered the equipment for converting Brushless, made ​​the same request that you show that uses the F45 on your blog. The same batteries, the engine EH200, ESC 18A Basic 3.1, you think I did a good buy?

And if it is not too much to ask BThirsk, since you used the same accessories to make this change, I need to buy additional plugs? Or does not? Can I connect the ESC direct to battery?
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:18 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padge993 View Post
The noise is from the TX. I tried turning of all wireless devices with the last PCB with no luck but i will try again. Here are some photos BTW does everything look in order?
I have found 1 thing with the pics of your PCB
Where is the gyro??

It should be on the front right square standing upright but you PCB as a chip in the same place laying flat on the board.

Either this is wrong or they have updated the board and the gyro is either been replaced or put somewhere else on the board.

I have had a look at saintpipo's board pics and his is the same as yours so that cant be a problem as his is working.
I can see by your board pics eveything is plugged in properly so is this the same problem you had with your first PCB and if so I would be looking at the TX as this must have a fault.
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Last edited by Whizgig; Nov 26, 2012 at 06:30 PM. Reason: More brain juce used to get more smarts. lol
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:21 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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I have decided to mod the F45 to BL but has anyone got a working unit with a parts listing and wireing diagram and if so dose this also include the tail motor to BL or is it left as stock??
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
I have found 1 thing with the pics of your PCB
Where is the gyro??

It should be on the front right square standing upright but you PCB as a chip in the same place laying flat on the board.

Either this is wrong or they have updated the board and the gyro is either been replaced or put somewhere else on the board.
I have both and older and a newer F45. The newer F45 has the gyro soldered flat to the PCB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
I have decided to mod the F45 to BL but has anyone got a working unit with a parts listing and wireing diagram and if so dose this also include the tail motor to BL or is it left as stock??
If you click on Bthirsk in this thread he has the parts listed in his blog area. Most of us have only done the BL main motor. I have ordered some items so I can try the tail conversion as well.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
I have found 1 thing with the pics of your PCB
Where is the gyro??

It should be on the front right square standing upright but you PCB as a chip in the same place laying flat on the board.

Either this is wrong or they have updated the board and the gyro is either been replaced or put somewhere else on the board.
This is the original PCB in the photo.

This is the new version from what i have been told and you can tell by the sticker on the TX around the top if it is all silver its old one if it has red in it then its new model.
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Last edited by padge993; Nov 26, 2012 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:48 PM
Starting in R/C Helicopters
Brazil, MT, Juara
Joined Oct 2012
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Guys, someone tells me how to do the modification of the servant? I really need this, and I have no idea how to do, even now having read up to page 30 of the topic.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 07:47 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
I have both and older and a newer F45. The newer F45 has the gyro soldered flat to the PCB.



If you click on Bthirsk in this thread he has the parts listed in his blog area. Most of us have only done the BL main motor. I have ordered some items so I can try the tail conversion as well.
Thanks Rexless I will get on to it asap.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 07:50 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padge993 View Post
This is the original PCB in the photo.

This is the new version from what i have been told and you can tell by the sticker on the TX around the top if it is all silver its old one if it has red in it then its new model.
OK so they have modified it, well at least the gyro is now stable as it's flat on the board which means alot less vibration and would be better in a crash ect not sitting upright waiting to be knocked off.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 08:18 PM
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The Netherlands, UT, Nieuwegein
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Originally Posted by padge993 View Post
Okay so i ordered a new circuit board hoping to solve my binding problem.

Now when i bind the chopper throttle up and down i get a long..... beep that does not stop. Any ideas what my problem is??? http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=FCLxlYXpJvI
Padge is it possible that something is locking the movements of the blades or is one of the motors locking something ?

I get this long beep most time when i crash the heli it happends when something is blocking the motor, its an safety function.

Allso try this, get the power cables from the motors of from the pcb and then try to bind then and see if it is working
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by eminemin View Post
Padge is it possible that something is locking the movements of the blades or is one of the motors locking something ?

I get this long beep most time when i crash the heli it happends when something is blocking the motor, its an safety function.
Hello thanks for your reply. I wish that was the case but the blades spin freely.

My original PCB that came stock did not do this just failed to bind.

Do not know if you have read my other posts today I tried disconnecting the battery from the helicopter and binding it and funny enough the transmitter gave me the long beep also. I have reset the transmitter numerous times with no luck.

I will try your tip and report back.
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Last edited by padge993; Nov 26, 2012 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 08:35 PM
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Ok you try that, i.m going to bed its 3:30 in the night here and i will read about your finds tomorrow or maybe till that time someone ellse will help you get a long.

the beep means something is not right connected or you could allso say there is somewhere wrong voltage, possible short circuit. yes i read all your messages

Good luck to you
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 11:05 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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More Gear Pitch/Mod

After some more research I finally found how to measure the pitch, or mod, of gears.

The formula is Number of Teeth / Diameter = Pitch as mentioned a number of pages back on here. What I found is that this diameter is actually the "pitch" diameter which is measured between the gear bevels instead of the outside diameter of the teeth. I did a crude drawing of this measuring point.

In the case of the F45 tail motor pinion, the pitch diameter is 3.2mm. So you take 3.2mm / 8 teeth = 0.4 pitch/mod. I also checked the tail spur gear and came up with 24mm / 60 teeth = 0.4 mod.

The 10 tooth main pinion works out as 5.0mm / 10 teeth = 0.5 mod.

Kind of cool to know, but I will probably never use this info again.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 12:42 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
After some more research I finally found how to measure the pitch, or mod, of gears.

The formula is Number of Teeth / Diameter = Pitch as mentioned a number of pages back on here. What I found is that this diameter is actually the "pitch" diameter which is measured between the gear bevels instead of the outside diameter of the teeth. I did a crude drawing of this measuring point.

In the case of the F45 tail motor pinion, the pitch diameter is 3.2mm. So you take 3.2mm / 8 teeth = 0.4 pitch/mod. I also checked the tail spur gear and came up with 24mm / 60 teeth = 0.4 mod.

The 10 tooth main pinion works out as 5.0mm / 10 teeth = 0.5 mod.

Kind of cool to know, but I will probably never use this info again.
If you are messing around with heli's and looking for every way to get more power,lift and speed ect you will need it. lol.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 02:54 AM
THE TRUTH IS OUT THERE
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Slovakia, Veľké Kapušany
Joined Nov 2012
95 Posts
Isnt enough to use one 2S battery along with the EH200? Many people say that even the EH200 with 2S battery is not running at full power its still much more powerfull than the stock solution. And with 2000mAh battery it can last in the air almost 20min. Sure, the 3S battery gives some bonus power but there is + weight because the second battery. How long lasts that 500mAh 2S? What are the advantages of using two batteries (2S + 3S)?
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