Originally Posted by BThirsk

How much weight do your lights add to the tail. Make sure the COG is still OK.
One thing I notice with higher head speed is the COG needs to be balanced.

I checked and it is very slightly to the back... maybe 3-4mm tail drop when I lift from the balance bar. I flew it in this configuration 3 times before last night and didn't have any issues though.

Originally Posted by Flyor

You might check the movement of your servos, I had a similar experience, turned out that one of the servos gears lost a tooth, all seemed ok while hovering but as soon I pushed forward things went wrong.
Regards

Ok. I'm checking the movement from what I can see it's moving to the limit of the swashplate - on the bench anyway.

Originally Posted by wileyrc

I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on this heli. I was browsing amazon for black friday deals and came across this heli. for a little 100 bucks I could'nt believe all the positive reviews. I recently purchased a novus FP 200 heli from tower hobbies for 179 bucks. Its only 17 inches long. I wish I would have seen this one before I bought it. although it does fly ok.

Fire when ready.

Originally Posted by rexless

That battery is way too big and way too heavy. If you use 3s for EH200 you need a 2s battery for the PCB/Tail. I have a 1000mah 3s and a 500mah 2s. I'm upgrading to a 1500mah 3s http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=26453
which I believe is the one Bthirsk uses. I am use the AOE ESC so I can't confirm or deny that one as correct

I understand .. Had not paid attention to it! I like the Nano Tech! I'll buy is then:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=26453

About the 2S to the PCB, what do you think of the following battery:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

The engine EH200 is not available in stock, however, if any, I would expect.

I would ask, have any tips for engine I make the switch? I want a Brushless motor .. About ESC I think he is good!

Now, only one question! How would I do the modifications to use 2 batteries? I'm using layman on the subject! I apologize for asking so much, but again, thanks!

From what Bthirsk has told me, I think he said a 500mah and the 1500mah produce a run time that's quite balanced between the 2. I think 1000mah for the pcb/tail is going to just result in extra weight with no benefit.

Originally Posted by Junior Basilio

I understand .. Had not paid attention to it! I like the Nano Tech! I'll buy is then:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=26453

About the 2S to the PCB, what do you think of the following battery:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

The engine EH200 is not available in stock, however, if any, I would expect.

I would ask, have any tips for engine I make the switch? I want a Brushless motor .. About ESC I think he is good!

Now, only one question! How would I do the modifications to use 2 batteries? I'm using layman on the subject! I apologize for asking so much, but again, thanks!

As Rexless said, it won't fit and will be too heavy and is not required. Go to my blog by clicking on my name. At the bottom in the MJX section, there is a vidio shown the setup and the binding procedure with the 2 batteries. That should explain it all. It's really very simple.
As for the EH200, just order one and they will backorder and ship when it arrives.

My Brushless Project

Motor ADH300XL= 5250kv
Speed Hobbywing = 30A
Pinion = 10T
Servo = TGY-90S (Original same as Tower Pro MG90S because Turnigy tell to TP made it for them)

Decrease Throttle to 20%

Super fast and stable. I remove BEC wire from ESC before insert to PCB and use original 2s batt. If more advance you can use high C or 3s batt. This today MOD motor and ESC no hot it is warm operation. Who is you 20A ESC how temperature?


If you use 3s MOD have 2 way
1. Use 2S to PCB and use 3S to ESC. 3S batt can insert from the back side of heli base by remove 1 plastic pcs.
2. Use single 3S you can insert from the front side of heli. But you need to cut batt stopper and cut middle of batt cover for insert battery strap. Then use 7.4V BEC to drop voltage for PCB.

MOD1 it save cost but you need 2 batt charge before play.

@SaintPipo

1. Why have you changed the servos from stock?

2. Also what do you mean by "...I remove BEC wire from ESC before insert to PCB...."

Originally Posted by Lentar

@SaintPipo

1. Why have you changed the servos from stock?

2. Also what do you mean by "...I remove BEC wire from ESC before insert to PCB...."

1. This TGY-90S it have high torque and high speed than original servo. After change my heli so faster move.
2. ESC have BEC output( 5-6V voltage regulator) and PCB have 7.4V to support. So PCB no need BEC output. And make sure no short circuit occur.

Just thought I would share my story. I was walking through the mall and I saw something that caught my attention out of the corner of my eye, it was a hobby store selling helis. As soon as I saw it I new I must have it, an MJX r/c F45, set me back AU$150.

I got her home and took her out of the box and straight to the charger she went. Tried my hand at flying in the house( the first time I ever touched an rc heli), got her off the floor then the fun started, everyone ducked for cover as she went over the room. Hit a table and chair a few times and not a scratch , someone else tried having ago, straight into the metal table legs again, no dents or anything on the blades.

Took her into the country for some outdoor flying. As I got used to flying it I allowed the distance to increase. I decided to let the throttle rip, up...up.....up she went until I could no longer see which direction the tail was pointing(about 130-150 metres about 470 feet), so I decreased the throttle and it started coming down on the way an eagle started to circle her... but decided it was too noisy to chase.

A couple of days of practising passed. Yesterday morning (Fri 23) I took her out for a spin, the wind was about 6-7km/hr suddenly a small gust slammed her into a tree, luckily only a minor dent and a few scratches. I should have learned my lesson, but the wind speed reduced, so I took her up again. She was at about 30 metres when an up-draught collected her and took her up...up and up until the tail rotor couldn't be seen. And so I cut the throttle to 15% she came down quick but by that time she had drifted at least 135m away, the signal became patchy. It went down behind some very large trees and over a road, in a field of itchy, high, dead, grass.

So I have searched and searched but to my dismay I cannot find her (in this 20 acres of grass) 5 hours of searching in this heat, 1 /1/2 hrs at night searching in the pitch black for her little light of hope. I am due to go back to the city, so I have to leave her for the slashing machine. May she go where all the lost helis are, where there is no wind and plenty of of Li-Pos

Originally Posted by saintpipo

1.
2. ESC have BEC output( 5-6V voltage regulator) and PCB have 7.4V to support. So PCB no need BEC output. And make sure no short circuit occur.

My understanding was that the BEC cable also controls motor throttle. So how do you control throttle?

Is this wiring method OK:

Connect 7.4 V battery to ESC.
Connect ESC to BL motor terminals
Plug BEC cable to PCB, and presto!

Originally Posted by Lentar

My understanding was that the BEC cable also controls motor throttle. So how do you control throttle?

Is this wiring method OK:

Connect 7.4 V battery to ESC.
Connect ESC to BL motor terminals
Plug BEC cable to PCB, and presto!

Yes BEC cable is control throttle by use white(signal) and black(ground) .But red is DC voltage from ESC to support 6ch std receiver. Same as above F45 is all in one PCB need 7.4 V for internal RX and Tail motor control and control servo. PCB no need other source. IT use only 7.4V from Batt. So i move red wire from ESC

This member diagram . i connect follow PIC but remove red wire from ESC signal (in PIC is black line)

OK, so basically the stock battery remains connected to the PCB, and we connect power to the ESC by soldering wires to the base of the PCB, and cut the red wire to the servo plug (BEC) before plugging it into the PCB?
Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't want to fry my PCB.

This is the ESC I got for 250W AEO motor:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2163

Originally Posted by Manthrasher

A couple of days of practising passed. Yesterday morning (Fri 23) I took her out for a spin, the wind was about 6-7km/hr suddenly a small gust slammed her into a tree, luckily only a minor dent and a few scratches. I should have learned my lesson, but the wind speed reduced, so I took her up again. She was at about 30 metres when an up-draught collected her and took her up...up and up until the tail rotor couldn't be seen. And so I cut the throttle to 15% she came down quick but by that time she had drifted at least 135m away, the signal became patchy. It went down behind some very large trees and over a road, in a field of itchy, high, dead, grass.

So I have searched and searched but to my dismay I cannot find her (in this 20 acres of grass) 5 hours of searching in this heat, 1 /1/2 hrs at night searching in the pitch black for her little light of hope. I am due to go back to the city, so I have to leave her for the slashing machine. May she go where all the lost helis are, where there is no wind and plenty of of Li-Pos

Its a very sad story, and I don't want to rub it in, but you did in a way break 2 rules of helicopter flying: 1. Never fly over an area where you cannot land 2. Never fly outside your capabilities.

Only crashes I had with my F45 were due to (2) above, and these were easily remedied by using a larger, open area and flying with enough space to make course corrections.

Hopefully you had enough fun to make you think about getting a replacement

Originally Posted by Lentar

OK, so basically the stock battery remains connected to the PCB, and we connect power to the ESC by soldering wires to the base of the PCB, and cut the red wire to the servo plug (BEC) before plugging it into the PCB?
Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't want to fry my PCB.

This is the ESC I got for 250W AEO motor:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2163

That 's right. let's go

Originally Posted by saintpipo

My Brushless Project

Motor ADH300XL= 5250kv
Speed Hobbywing = 30A
Pinion = 10T
Servo = TGY-90S (Original same as Tower Pro MG90S because Turnigy tell to TP made it for them)

Decrease Throttle to 20%

Super fast and stable. I remove BEC wire from ESC before insert to PCB and use original 2s batt. If more advance you can use high C or 3s batt. This today MOD motor and ESC no hot it is warm operation. Who is you 20A ESC how temperature?


If you use 3s MOD have 2 way
1. Use 2S to PCB and use 3S to ESC. 3S batt can insert from the back side of heli base by remove 1 plastic pcs.
2. Use single 3S you can insert from the front side of heli. But you need to cut batt stopper and cut middle of batt cover for insert battery strap. Then use 7.4V BEC to drop voltage for PCB.

MOD1 it save cost but you need 2 batt charge before play.

You are correct that you don't need the power and ground connect to the throttle port as it only requires the signal wire.
I am surprised the pcb will run the tail motor with the low voltage from the BEC as it shuts down when the supplied voltage gets too low.
How does the tail motor handle the lower voltage?
When I did some testing on the stock PCB, the tail motor was supplied full battery voltage at full right rubber. With this setup, that would only be BEC voltage.
Hope it works for you.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

I am surprised the pcb will run the tail motor with the low voltage from the BEC as it shuts down when the supplied voltage gets too low.

He is not using the BEC to supply power to the PCB, having left the original battery leads in place.