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Old Nov 17, 2012, 04:43 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
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An interesting experiment! If it continues to reduce I wonder if that would cause extra wear on the servo?
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 05:26 PM
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The Netherlands, ZH, Rotterdam
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Originally Posted by rexless View Post
An interesting experiment! If it continues to reduce I wonder if that would cause extra wear on the servo?
I don't know, but the elastic band gives just a very little pressure, just so that I don't hear the servo working against the pressure.

In the mean time I tested this experiment with the camera mounted, wow, great improvement here, finally I can actually look at the video without getting dizzy
I made some forcefull stick movements to see how solid the heli was, now it stops when I want with just a very little vriendly nod

Regards
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 06:12 PM
Different fly 4 different guy
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Canada, BC, Salmon Arm
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by Flyor View Post
Hi guys,

Lately my yellow F45 was rocking whenever I went to fast for or backward, since I'm trying to use an 808 #16 camera I needed to stop this, I almost got seasick looking at the video's I took.

I noticed quite some play in the servo's and I came up with this simple experiment.
I used an elastic band to keep the back/forward arm of the swash plate more stable.

Eureka, really rock solid, never been better, I now can move fast forward backward and stop quickly, no rocking at all anymore

This might help some other rocking bobbing issues some others have, just try it, don't use to much down pressure, the pressure I use is just enough to keep the servo arm down but doesn't interfere with the movement.
I see you have the straight connectors on your F45. I wonder if there is a difference in rocking tendancy between straight connectors and 7-shaped?

And how is that yellow canopy holding out? I find yellow the easiest to see at a distance.

regards . . . g
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gordonzo View Post
I see you have the straight connectors on your F45. I wonder if there is a difference in rocking tendancy between straight connectors and 7-shaped?

And how is that yellow canopy holding out? I find yellow the easiest to see at a distance.

regards . . . g
I don't think 7-shaped connectors have anything to do with the rocking in this case, there is (in my case) simply too much play at the rear servo arm.

The yellow canopy make the heli much more visible when it is far away, especially the orientation, I can clearly see where the heli is going, when it was standard green I often had to rotate the heli at a distance until I could see the headlight, only then I knew that it was facing towards me.

Regards
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 08:42 PM
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hello all
I have a question, converting brushed to brushless circuit, using 10f202 can work well for brushless tail motor?

who made successful with this circuit for f45?
thank you



link http://forum.rcdesign.ru/f87/thread219994.html
link http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1043888
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:29 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
RC my life -
The approach it seems we've generally been taking is to use a dedicated brushed to brushless converter: or (for BThirsk) replacing the Tx/Rx with an 'r/c standard' unit.
As the brushed to BL converter works well, and costs round $15, there doesn't appear to be a lot of enthusiasm here for setting up a dedicated MCU for the job: nearest approach is Hinnerk's work, much earlier in this thread. Suggest you check it out?
The main problem I've found is balancing the BL main motor with the BL tail. IME it works, but not really very well under all circumstances. So I've gone with using the brushed tail, and simply replacing the tail motor after 40 flights. A pain, but at $10, no big deal.
However, can only wish you the best with this project. Be nice to see a complete solution to the BL F45!

PS - Just knew learning the Cyrillic alphabet would come in handy one day .

Edit: link for converter: http://helidirect.com/xtreme-brushed...er-p-19238.hdx
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Last edited by OldOz; Nov 17, 2012 at 11:38 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 12:06 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Flyor -
Had a line of thunderstorms through here last day or so, so I couldn't try out your 'elastic band' idea until just now.
Can't say it's cured the bobbing completely, but it's surely improved it a lot. And I'm not easily impressed(!).
Thanks a lot for the idea. My efforts at F45 AP video were a bit inclined to induce seasickness as well - think this might help heaps. And I guess Slothy was on to something when he suggested a servo check, too.
Cheers
John
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 12:24 AM
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BL circuit

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
RC my life -
The approach it seems we've generally been taking is to use a dedicated brushed to brushless converter: or (for BThirsk) replacing the Tx/Rx with an 'r/c standard' unit.
As the brushed to BL converter works well, and costs round $15, there doesn't appear to be a lot of enthusiasm here for setting up a dedicated MCU for the job: nearest approach is Hinnerk's work, much earlier in this thread. Suggest you check it out?
The main problem I've found is balancing the BL main motor with the BL tail. IME it works, but not really very well under all circumstances. So I've gone with using the brushed tail, and simply replacing the tail motor after 40 flights. A pain, but at $10, no big deal.
However, can only wish you the best with this project. Be nice to see a complete solution to the BL F45!
PS - Just knew learning the Cyrillic alphabet would come in handy one day .

Edit: link for converter: http://helidirect.com/xtreme-brushed...er-p-19238.hdx
Perhaps I missed the information along the line, but could you be so kind as to draw the circuit you use, including the battery types? I'm a bit confused as to where the various components you use are attached and what batteries you use. Maybe pictures too? Many thanks
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 12:46 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
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Hawaiichopper -
The wiring is pretty well exactly as per my post 3990 (and other contributors at this time), when we were checking the feasibility of the converter (http://helidirect.com/xtreme-brushed...er-p-19238.hdx)
The battery I use is a single, standard HK nano-tech 2s 2000maH - I'll try and link it later in an edit. I found the 3s to be a bit much of a good thing altogether for the EH200, though others have gone down this road successfully. Was using this for both BL motors.
Afraid I can't give you current pics, as the BL F45 heli is back on brushed tail as mentioned above, and on loan to my son while I work on attempting to get reasonably proficient at the 450 CP (getting there slowly!).
However, again, think you'll find all the info needed in the earlier posts.
Good luck with your own conversion, though .

Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23820
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 01:11 AM
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hi oldoz
This device works well with many types of 4in 1?

Because the signal pulses with each 4in1 different type .

how to install it so that it is compatible with 4in of f 45 ?

you can show me a video that you have success with this device



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Old Nov 18, 2012, 02:09 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
rc my life -
I'm assuming you're posting a picture of the Xtreme BL converter. It looks identical.
I guess you missed my previous post (4239) which answers your questions (as best as I can presently).
As explained, though my BL conversion worked, I was not happy with the performance: so reverted to the BL main/brushed tail combination some time back. However, many others on this thread have posted the relevant info, including a video of a working BL tail conversion.
Suggest you skim through as much as possible of this thread, or at least round p. 266 when we were working on this conversion.
Again, good luck.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 02:11 AM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Hawaiichopper -
The wiring is pretty well exactly as per my post 3990 (and other contributors at this time), when we were checking the feasibility of the converter (http://helidirect.com/xtreme-brushed...er-p-19238.hdx)
The battery I use is a single, standard HK nano-tech 2s 2000maH - I'll try and link it later in an edit. I found the 3s to be a bit much of a good thing altogether for the EH200, though others have gone down this road successfully. Was using this for both BL motors.
Afraid I can't give you current pics, as the BL F45 heli is back on brushed tail as mentioned above, and on loan to my son while I work on attempting to get reasonably proficient at the 450 CP (getting there slowly!).
However, again, think you'll find all the info needed in the earlier posts.
Good luck with your own conversion, though .

Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23820
Thanks so much for the info. I wish to use the BL main motor and leave the tail brushed. Pardon my confusion, but I'm unsure what leads get plugged where. For example, where do the two wire leads from the brushed to brushless converter attach to the PCB? Is a Y used to supply 7.4v battery power to the PCB and to the ESC? Or do I have the circuitry all wrong? I can't quite tell from the picture you noted and I sure don't want to wire it wrong! Thanks again.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 02:41 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Hawaiichopper -
That's a lot easier!
As I posted, my BL F45 is on loan to my son atm, otherwise could (re)post all pics. But many here have done the basic BL conversion, so maybe could step in.
But from memory, I
- mounted the Turnigy ESC directly under the main gear, with the orange (motor) wires toward the rear of the F45
- soldered the - from the ESC directly to the main PCA negative
- soldered the + from the ESC to the main PCA + via a quick break connector (actually taken from a computer HDD 4 pin power adaptor, but your LHS will have similar)
- soldered the three ESC orange wires temporarily to the motor leads (you can bet you'll have to reverse two of them if you solder them permanently straight off)
- plugged in the 'servo' lead to the unused 3 pin on the main PCA (white lead nearest the middle of PCA)
- smoke test
- if all OK, double sided tape (or velcro) the ESC to base of chopper
- cable tie any loose leads

If I've made any mistakes (old brain!) someone will correct me, I'm sure
Good luck!
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by hawaiichopper View Post
Pardon my confusion, but I'm unsure what leads get plugged where.
Hope this helps.

Regards
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Flyor -
Had a line of thunderstorms through here last day or so, so I couldn't try out your 'elastic band' idea until just now.
Can't say it's cured the bobbing completely, but it's surely improved it a lot. And I'm not easily impressed(!).
Thanks a lot for the idea. My efforts at F45 AP video were a bit inclined to induce seasickness as well - think this might help heaps. And I guess Slothy was on to something when he suggested a servo check, too.
Cheers
John
I did some more test today, too much tension gives somewhat more rocking, also the length and angle of the elastic band seems to have some influence on the dampening effect, longer elastic bands seems to behave better.

Regards
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