hello guy
I have to try to upgrade the helicopter's tail brushless motor for F45
I use this motor

 and this esc


and


results failed, continuous shock tail motor, thrust its tail is strong, the F45 can not keep the tail, the gyro function as useless

How do I do?

???
I look forward to help from all you

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Welcome.
This is the one many are using.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...iver_Pack.html

Hi guys

couple of quick questions, maybe with obvious answers but since I've not had an F45 in my hands yet I have to ask.

I've read that for the above battery to fit, you need to modify (remove) the tabs on the battery holder. Once they have been removed, can you still use the stock battery? When I get my F45 I don't want to be limited to 2 flights a day, but also don't want to have a stock battery which I can't use

I've also been looking at the 2100mAh which measures 80 x 44 x 16mm rather than the 2000mAh 90 x 42x 16mm (10mm shorter but 2mm wider). Is this also a viable option and, if so, do the battery tabs also have to be removed to fit it?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tter_Pack.html

Cheers
Tigg

Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962

Hi guys

couple of quick questions, maybe with obvious answers but since I've not had an F45 in my hands yet I have to ask.

I've read that for the above battery to fit, you need to modify (remove) the tabs on the battery holder. Once they have been removed, can you still use the stock battery? When I get my F45 I don't want to be limited to 2 flights a day, but also don't want to have a stock battery which I can't use

I've also been looking at the 2100mAh which measures 80 x 44 x 16mm rather than the 2000mAh 90 x 42x 16mm (10mm shorter but 2mm wider). Is this also a viable option and, if so, do the battery tabs also have to be removed to fit it?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tter_Pack.html

Cheers
Tigg

Yes, I am sure that is longer than the stock battery and the stock is about the maximum length you can use without removing the tabs. You could still use the stock battery as long as you use something like Velcro tape to hold the battery in place which I would suggest anyway.

Originally Posted by fantasy1988

hello guy
I have to try to upgrade the helicopter's tail brushless motor for F45

results failed, continuous shock tail motor, thrust its tail is strong, the F45 can not keep the tail, the gyro function as useless

How do I do?

First, did you set the rudder range in the ESC.
To do this, unplug the main motor first.
When you bind the Heli, move the throttle to high, back to low, and then to the middle and far right. You will hear the tail ESC beep twice. Imidiately move the throttle stick to the far left. It will beep again and then the cell count beeps with a long beep. Power down the Heli and transmitter.
This will set the rudder range in the ESC to match the TX.
You can then set the rudder percent in the TX to a lower percentage to reduce output if required.

hi bthirsk
thank you for reply

I will follow your instructions

Thanks again and good health

Hi fantasy1988
I enjoyed brushless tail motor F45
wish you success

Hi,
There is a 0.1 V difference between the two cells as indicated by the lipo voltage tester and buzzer. Is this a problem or within limits? I still get about 6-8 minutes flying time (using stock motors). My Accucell 6 is still not here, but I do have a Skyartec balance charger. Previously I was just using the supplied wall charger unit, could that have damaged the battery, or was a cell just not matched when the battery was manufactured?
How do I revive this battery, if its even possible?

I have one F45 with the 7 shaped dog bone connectors and one with the straight ones. The straight bones show a slight wear spot where they touch the loops while the 7 shaped ones do not. The geometry of the dog bone attachment points is slightly different for the 7 shaped bones versus the straight bones. The placement of the blade mounting mechanism on the main shaft is also slightly different for each bird. Makes me wonder if the loops break when parts from the two configurations are mixed, but the breakage may also just occur due to the pressure exerted by the straight bones. Performance-wise, I see no difference in the flights of either bird.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Yes, I am sure that is longer than the stock battery and the stock is about the maximum length you can use without removing the tabs. You could still use the stock battery as long as you use something like Velcro tape to hold the battery in place which I would suggest anyway.

I use both the stock and the longer turnigy 2000 mah batteries in the same bird. For the longer battery I had to remove the front tab and part of the rear stops to provide clearance for the end of the battery in the nose. When using the stock battery I insert a foam spacer held by Velcro on the "wires end" of the battery. The battery is held in place by a Velcro strap. This method keeps the center of gravity consistent so only minor TX trimming is needed when switching batteries.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Yes, I am sure that is longer than the stock battery and the stock is about the maximum length you can use without removing the tabs. You could still use the stock battery as long as you use something like Velcro tape to hold the battery in place which I would suggest anyway.

Originally Posted by hawaiichopper

I use both the stock and the longer turnigy 2000 mah batteries in the same bird. For the longer battery I had to remove the front tab and part of the rear stops to provide clearance for the end of the battery in the nose. When using the stock battery I insert a foam spacer held by Velcro on the "wires end" of the battery. The battery is held in place by a Velcro strap. This method keeps the center of gravity consistent so only minor TX trimming is needed when switching batteries.

Thanks guys, trying to gather as much info as I can before I get the heli and this all helps a bunch. Maybe I WILL just pull my order forward instead of waiting til spring.

In the meantime I have two more questions.
Can I use the stock charger to charge the Turnigy batteries or do I need a separate charger?
...and as far as I remember reading, the Turnigy and the stock battery have different connectors.
@ hawaiichopper
Did you buy/make some kind of adaptor? If you made one, do you have it down somewhere what's needed and how you did it? If I do wait till spring to buy the heli, at least I've got plenty of time to practice my soldering skills

Cheers
Tigg

Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962

Thanks guys, trying to gather as much info as I can before I get the heli and this all helps a bunch. Maybe I WILL just pull my order forward instead of waiting til spring.

In the meantime I have two more questions.
Can I use the stock charger to charge the Turnigy batteries or do I need a separate charger?
...and as far as I remember reading, the Turnigy and the stock battery have different connectors.
@ hawaiichopper
Did you buy/make some kind of adaptor? If you made one, do you have it down somewhere what's needed and how you did it? If I do wait till spring to buy the heli, at least I've got plenty of time to practice my soldering skills

Cheers
Tigg

The turnigy battery (2000 mah) from Hobby King has the same JST discharge line (line from battery to chopper) as the stock battery, but the battery is significantly longer requiring modification to the battery holder. I am awaiting the 2200 mah lipo offered by techNtoys.com as it has the same general dimensions as the stock li-ion battery. Whether it is as good as the turnigy lipo battery will be evaluated soon. While I don't fly the choppers more than 7 minutes regardless of battery type, the lipo maintains a better power supply for the entire flight time as others have noted previously. I still use the stock charger - seems fine so far but I monitor the charge time closely.

Before I went to 11.1v I used the 2000mah Nanotech battery and I loved it. I had to remove the stop tabs at the back and add twist-ties or velcro to hold it nicely in place. I liked that I could shift weight slightly forward for a bit more forward flight ability in a small wind. Now I'm using a 1000mah 11.1v 3s for the EH200 BL motor and an old ~500mah 2s (from my defective S022 heli) for the PCB/Tail. I've mounted the small 2s right under the main motor/gear. I have a pretty good balance (I think - I haven't learned how to test that yet) as it flies quite nicely in this setup.

Power wise - I get a solid 10m of flight with this configuration. I must have lost track of time yesterday though. I didn't time the flight and was barely able to clear the fence and land in my yard! I checked the voltage on the 2s after that and noticed it was sitting at about half it's usable capacity. I guess a 1300-1400mah 3s would be a better balance if I wanted to keep going for longer flights. For me, I don't get many chances to fly and my time is very limited so 10m is usually all I can afford. I don't bother keeping extra batteries at this point. My only desire is to have only a single 3s power everything though. I dislike charging 2 different batteries.

Originally Posted by rexless

Before I went to 11.1v I used the 2000mah Nanotech battery and I loved it. I had to remove the stop tabs at the back and add twist-ties or velcro to hold it nicely in place. I liked that I could shift weight slightly forward for a bit more forward flight ability in a small wind. Now I'm using a 1000mah 11.1v 3s for the EH200 BL motor and an old ~500mah 2s (from my defective S022 heli) for the PCB/Tail. I've mounted the small 2s right under the main motor/gear. I have a pretty good balance (I think - I haven't learned how to test that yet) as it flies quite nicely in this setup.

Power wise - I get a solid 10m of flight with this configuration. I must have lost track of time yesterday though. I didn't time the flight and was barely able to clear the fence and land in my yard! I checked the voltage on the 2s after that and noticed it was sitting at about half it's usable capacity. I guess a 1300-1400mah 3s would be a better balance if I wanted to keep going for longer flights. For me, I don't get many chances to fly and my time is very limited so 10m is usually all I can afford. I don't bother keeping extra batteries at this point. My only desire is to have only a single 3s power everything though. I dislike charging 2 different batteries.

To test the center of gravity, position the flybar at 90 degrees to the tail. Hold on each side of the flybar with your finger tips lifting on the bar. The heli should come straight up on the same orientation as is was sitting on the bench without tipping forward or back.
I'm with you on the one battery. It would be nice, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet.
I had mine up in the breeze yesterday for the first time since the brushless tail install and the new flybar. The tail held like a charm and I have it de-tuned.
The cyclic is still almost too much for me. It is like flying my HK250. I need a lot of practice or more tuning to soften the response.

Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962

I've also been looking at the 2100mAh which measures 80 x 44 x 16mm rather than the 2000mAh 90 x 42x 16mm (10mm shorter but 2mm wider). Is this also a viable option and, if so, do the battery tabs also have to be removed to fit it?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tter_Pack.html

Cheers
Tigg

WARNING!

That 2100mAh pack you linked is NOT a LiPo!! It is actually a LiFePo4 which is 6.6v not 7.4v. Also the chemical makeup is totally different and you would need a charger capable of charging LiFePo4 batteries.

I seriously recommend the 2000mAh Nanotech Receiver pack as this will be the easiest solution.

The 2100mAh pack you linked is designed for Tx's which usually run off 4 AA batteries (6v). This is NOT a flight pack at all.