Originally Posted by Flyor

There could be something else wrong but check the mode switches on the TX, if they are even a little off position the heli will not bind.

BTW I fixed the mode switches with small pieces of rubber in the slots.

Regards

This is not my problem, I know about this issue and it was first what i checked yesterday. But thanks for response.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

I tried to get a reading on the tail motor, but it is not steady enough and a little small for my optical tach. I am guessing some where around 3000 plus rpm.
All I can tell is where blade image changes direction, but when trying to adjust tach, I can never get to still image.
I'm just going to experiment to set what works for me.

Thanks for the time to check. I was guessing about the same.

BTW, I went ahead and ordered some of those Xtreme blades. What can I expect from these and will they just "bolt on"?

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

Thanks for the time to check. I was guessing about the same.

BTW, I went ahead and ordered some of those Xtreme blades. What can I expect from these and will they just "bolt on"?

You will need to grind a small amount of material at the root. You can use the stock blades as a guide. You also need to open up the hole to about .344 inches. a Number D drill bit works fine.
You then need about .015" washer if I remember correctly. I had some nylon washers I used. Hard plastic book covers also work fine. That's all you require.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

You will need to grind a small amount of material at the root. You can use the stock blades as a guide. You also need to open up the hole to about .344 inches. a Number D drill bit works fine.
You then need about .015" washer if I remember correctly. I had some nylon washers I used. Hard plastic book covers also work fine. That's all you require.

Thanks. How will they fly compared to stock?

Had the Park 370 out in the street today, and all I have to say is WOW! Definately more responsive to throttle and pickes up speed with ease. Next stop is the park.

Any reason to think our birds won't handle a 5400kv brushless motor? I figure that if the 4100's are being flown on 11.1v that a 5400 on 7.4v should be easy.

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

Any reason to think our birds won't handle a 5400kv brushless motor? I figure that if the 4100's are being flown on 11.1v that a 5400 on 7.4v should be easy.

The blades will get you more headspeed at hover so the heli become a little more stable. The reponse is improved at all speeds.
A 5400 would work on 7.4V. You just need to make sure it has sufficient power and will fit and that the shaft size matches what you can get pinions for.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

The blades will get you more headspeed at hover so the heli become a little more stable. The reponse is improved at all speeds.
A 5400 would work on 7.4V. You just need to make sure it has sufficient power and will fit and that the shaft size matches what you can get pinions for.

Its is the same Park 370 just in 5400kv. Should work fine. One thing I like is that the output shaft is the same 2mm as the stock motor so I have a good supply of 10t pinions.

Since I have heli #3 coming, I will get a good feel for battery life with the 4100 before I get the 5400. Heli #3 will be my test bed for mods including a brushless inrunner tail motor. The only thing that concerns me with the brushless tail are the comments about needing to replace the FET on the PCB. Gotta be a way around that.

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

Its is the same Park 370 just in 5400kv. Should work fine. One thing I like is that the output shaft is the same 2mm as the stock motor so I have a good supply of 10t pinions.

Since I have heli #3 coming, I will get a good feel for battery life with the 4100 before I get the 5400. Heli #3 will be my test bed for mods including a brushless inrunner tail motor. The only thing that concerns me with the brushless tail are the comments about needing to replace the FET on the PCB. Gotta be a way around that.

I was just working on that a little last night laying out things. I will do some testing this weekend to see if I can get it going without burning up stuff. I did some voltage tests on the PCB. Just need to do some one hte ESC and Converter.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

I was just working on that a little last night laying out things. I will do some testing this weekend to see if I can get it going without burning up stuff. I did some voltage tests on the PCB. Just need to do some one hte ESC and Converter.

My thought is the tail motor circuit on the board is not made for the demands of a brushless setup which is going to pull more amps than the stock tail motor.

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

Had the Park 370 out in the street today, and all I have to say is WOW! Definately more responsive to throttle and picks up speed with ease. Next stop is the park.

Just back from the park and boy was that fun! I got over10 minutes to 3.4v, but it started to feel a little weak at about the 8 minute mark. Just a bit of rocking/wobble when climbing, but it was minor and would settle right out. Off the ground there was no sign of the tail wanting to come around. With the extra power this thing handled like a dream, with movements being sharp and precise. I was able to get a more pronounced "bank" in the turns, but I think that was because I was flying much faster. And NO CRASHES, LMAO!

I cancelled the order I had in for the EH200 since they are still out of stock, and will order the Park 370 in 5400kv and give'r a whirl.

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

My thought is the tail motor circuit on the board is not made for the demands of a brushless setup which is going to pull more amps than the stock tail motor.

The tail motor should be drawing no power from the PCB. The PCB only supplies the voltage to the signal converter which converts this to a usable signal the ESC can use. There should be virtually no amperage required. All the power to drive the tail motor comes directly from the battery, through the ESC, and is fed directly to the motor.
As I stated before, I believe the issue is feedback if the BEC power wire is hooked to the signal convertor. I will find out this weekend.

And good for you on the new motor. You have now confirmed another option with the Park 370.

OK, I get it now. Thanks for the work.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

The tail motor should be drawing no power from the PCB. The PCB only supplies the voltage to the signal converter which converts this to a usable signal the ESC can use. There should be virtually no amperage required. All the power to drive the tail motor comes directly from the battery, through the ESC, and is fed directly to the motor.
As I stated before, I believe the issue is feedback if the BEC power wire is hooked to the signal convertor. I will find out this weekend.

I agree you 100%. That's the way it should be ...but...

today i made a test:
- I have two PCB:s. One with original FET and one with bigger FET (CEP73A3G).
- I disconnected first the (+) and then the(-) wire from the PCB to signal converter. In both cases the converter didn't say anything

So....the only way i got this combination function was with the bigger FET and both signal wires connected from the PCB to converter....weard

Right now im struggling with the efficiency of the BL tail motor. It flyes smooth and stable but when i push full throttle .... the Turnigy 1811 kV2000 cannot keep the tail straight. If i put bigger tailpropel the tail kind of waves.....
....next step is to try 9T pinion to the main motor and maybe new BL tailmotor (Turnigy 1811) with more kV:s.

This is crazy....but i just love to do these modifications and solve problems

I am building a second F45 from scratch now and i tried to pull a little sleeve over the gyro...and oops something fell off. It's so damn small lol but i managed to solder it back on and it works . It looks bad but it works ha ha.