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Old Oct 05, 2012, 04:14 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
828 Posts
Park 370 in the air.

Got the bird in the air today and there is definately more power on tap over the stock motor. I hammered it off the ground a couple of times and there was no hint of the tail wanting to come around.

Boy those little pinion gears are soft. I looked at the mesh very close before I put it together but it did not last long at all before I started hearing the screech of it skipping. Going to pull it off and install the 12t.

More to come.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 04:46 PM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,780 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
Got the bird in the air today and there is definately more power on tap over the stock motor. I hammered it off the ground a couple of times and there was no hint of the tail wanting to come around.

Boy those little pinion gears are soft. I looked at the mesh very close before I put it together but it did not last long at all before I started hearing the screech of it skipping. Going to pull it off and install the 12t.

More to come.
Exactly what happen to the pinion. I have helis with 150 flight and not real sign of excessive wear. If something is creating wear in one or 2 flights, it might be the gear is not mod .5. That will destroy a gear in no time at all.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 04:53 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Exactly what happen to the pinion. I have helis with 150 flight and not real sign of excessive wear. If something is creating wear in one or 2 flights, it might be the gear is not mod .5. That will destroy a gear in no time at all.
I just put the 12T against another spur and boy are you right. Only went in about half way. Time to shop for a gear. Thanks for the point.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 05:32 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
I've found the Blade 9t 0.5 works well for me.
Where I fly (near the sea), the wind is normally around 20k/h with higher gusts. I have lost one F45 to the wind - and IME, the only way I can guarantee to get the nose down is BL,with about 25grams of BluTac in the nose of the canopy, and the heavier Turnigy batts (+losing the horizontal stab and support bars).
The 9t seems to let the EH200 run cooler under these circumstances.

I would certainly like to know if a CP would fare much better in my environment. Was tossing up between a 300X and a 450 3D? Any input appreciated
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 06:21 PM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
21,486 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
I would certainly like to know if a CP would fare much better in my environment. Was tossing up between a 300X and a 450 3D? Any input appreciated
A decent CP heli would handle wind much better. But, you do not have the experience for a larger CP heli. Buy a DX6i and a Blade MCPx first, then get a BNF 450X. There's no compelling reason for you to buy a flybar heli. They have a lot more parts, so more to break and repair. The only drawback to a flybarless heli they require good servos.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:49 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Thanks, Balr14.

I did intend to train extensively with Phoenix first, but if you feel the MCPx would be a complimentary good first step, will go this way.
My reservation with FBL is that the setup seemed extremely complex after any damage/servo replacement: whereas I have some limited local help with flybar CP. However, was also bearing in mind your suggestion (earlier in this thread) that 500/450s were the easiest CPs to start on. Hence the 450 CP.
Blade, because there is one very good LHS that only stocks Blade/Align (and upmarket). Can't really afford my normal learning technique of buying 3 identical ex China helis for mods, repairs etc at 500 prices
Cheers
John.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:21 PM
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The Netherlands, ZH, Rotterdam
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First flight with the EH200

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all your help out here :-)

Today installed the EH200, almost scary to see how small it is

There was a lot of wind but I couldn't resist it.
I had to fight the wind a lot but the extra power saved me often, great, forward flight improved, with the wind on the tail the heli had very high speed, I little to much but I kept it in the air, with the extra power I could get it flying against the wind back again. The was a lot of turbulence sometimes the wind pushed the heli to the ground very fast, but a full throttle did the trick, a lot of fun :-)
I've emptied the orignal lipo, and also two light small 900mAh lipo's from my Esky Lama V4 I managed to get about 5 minutes of flight out each of them.

I noticed the power drops fast when the lipo's are low on power, but not to abrupt, I could land safely every time.
Back home I checked the lipo's and noticed that there was 7volts left, maybe I could set the cut off voltage to low, any thoughts on that?

BTW, The yellow canopy helped a lot I could clearly see the orientation when the heli was far away :-)

Regards
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 10:17 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,780 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Thanks, Balr14.

I did intend to train extensively with Phoenix first, but if you feel the MCPx would be a complimentary good first step, will go this way.
My reservation with FBL is that the setup seemed extremely complex after any damage/servo replacement: whereas I have some limited local help with flybar CP. However, was also bearing in mind your suggestion (earlier in this thread) that 500/450s were the easiest CPs to start on. Hence the 450 CP.
Blade, because there is one very good LHS that only stocks Blade/Align (and upmarket). Can't really afford my normal learning technique of buying 3 identical ex China helis for mods, repairs etc at 500 prices
Cheers
John.
Go onto some of the threads like the V120D02S that people are flying 120 to 200 size helis. Many of them do very good 3D flying. Many of them also have 450 or larger helis as I do.
Although a good 450 is a more stable to fly than a small Heli, it is also far more dangerous and intimidating. I would never recommend anyone start with a 450 or larger. You can safely learn more on a 200 size Heli and learn it safely. Once you can handle the smaller, faster helis, moving up to a 450 will be a lot easier.
You have to remember, a 450 has a lot more inertia and if it is coming at you or someone else, it does not stop on a dime and only your control of it can stop it from hurting you or someone else.
And yes, the cp will handle more wind. My V120D02S will handle wind better than the MJX in stock form at half the size. Again, you can check that forum and see several of the guys doing 3D flying in 20 mph winds.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 11:18 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
BThirsk -

Many thanks for your input too. I'm a fair to middling FP Pilot now (Twister, 120SR, and of course F45) but have vivid memories of earlier times with the big F39 coax - agree that something that big in the hands of a newbie CP pilot might be just a bit of a menace. Can't credit that no-ones been brained by one over here ("suitable for 8 and up"!), with a raft of legislation following to curtail our hobby completely.
So perhaps Balr14's mCPX followed by a Blade 300x might be the go. The 300x is almost exactly the size of the F45: but CP+ flybarless. My LHS is very keen on the straight jump to 300x (after Phoenix, of course) - on the other hand, they'll be selling me the bits to repair my crashes(!)
You guys have the CP experience, and I really appreciate the help. But don't want to be seen as hijacking this thread so will return to things MJX F45 now -
Cheers
John
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 11:49 PM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
21,486 Posts
A 450X is easier to fly than an MCPx. But, with limited experience, you need durability. An MCPx will absorb a lot of abuse, especially if flown over grass. A 450X or 300X will not. You won't learn much if you fly for 30 seconds between repairs. Buy a DX6i with an MCPx and set rates to about 60% for aileron and elevator, with 40% expo; and add about 20% expo on the rudder. That should get you going.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 12:08 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Balr14 -
Again, many thanks. That's a plan - John
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 12:17 AM
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Joined Dec 2009
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Lost binding from time to time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyor View Post
Darn, You could check the pathways and solder connections on the PCB also look for signs of overheated components, but I guess you've allready done that

Someone mentioned the two mode buttons before, my left button slips out of position too easy, loosing binding, I did stick a strip of rubber in the slot to keep it in place, in your case I don't think that's the case but check it anyway.

I'm out of idea's here, hopefully Banggood has a solution.
I asked Banggood where can be wrong with this brand new heli they
sent to me. The answer was:

"We have watched your video. This can be caused when the battery is not
in good condition. Please firstly discharge the F45 battery: turn on the
transmitter, keep the helicopter rotor blades rotating all the time, until the
battery is empty. Then re-charge the battery to full. Now you can fly it."
MJX-F45 lost binding in flight (1 min 4 sec)


I followed their instructions to discharge/charge battery for 3 rounds. But
the problem is still there. Anyone thought the suggestion from Banggood
makes sense?

Thanks
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 05:05 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Jeffteeh -
Frankly, I think this is bloody awful advice. If the batteries were really the LiPo MJX claims, you'd stand a good chance of destroying them this way imo. As it is, you can't have done them much good.
However, it's extremely difficult to think of a sensible plan of attack. The problem could be in the Tx or Rx: if the mode (slide) switches are OK, I'd bet on the Rx PCB in the heli. My solution would be to simply buy another heli, which would enable you to make a fast diagnosis - however, if you're on a tight budget this will be impractical.
A replacement Rx would be around $20, express postage would be cheap, and would be handy to have anyway. If you live in Aust, I could send you a spare TX.
TL, DR? - my money's on the RX PCB.
Good Luck, and maybe someone else can shed more light on this. Haven't heard of this exact problem in 237 pages(!)
- John

Edit: have you actually checked the battery voltage after a cutout? - if it were faulty, or had a high internal resistance it could cause the problem - that part of BGs advice I do agree with.....but haven't had a faulty one yet.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 05:17 AM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,780 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyor View Post
Hi Guys,

Thanks for all your help out here :-)

Today installed the EH200, almost scary to see how small it is

There was a lot of wind but I couldn't resist it.
I had to fight the wind a lot but the extra power saved me often, great, forward flight improved, with the wind on the tail the heli had very high speed, I little to much but I kept it in the air, with the extra power I could get it flying against the wind back again. The was a lot of turbulence sometimes the wind pushed the heli to the ground very fast, but a full throttle did the trick, a lot of fun :-)
I've emptied the orignal lipo, and also two light small 900mAh lipo's from my Esky Lama V4 I managed to get about 5 minutes of flight out each of them.

I noticed the power drops fast when the lipo's are low on power, but not to abrupt, I could land safely every time.
Back home I checked the lipo's and noticed that there was 7volts left, maybe I could set the cut off voltage to low, any thoughts on that?

BTW, The yellow canopy helped a lot I could clearly see the orientation when the heli was far away :-)

Regards
I would set the cutoff voltage to the lowest setting. That was an issue I have in early testing of the brushless motor. I tried 2 different ESCs to see it the problem would go away. For just light cruising around, it was not so much a problem,but I normally fly a little aggressive and was finding after 4 to 5 minutes, I lost enough power I had to land. Never was sure if it was the ESC going into protection mode or what. I seemed to have about 60% power left.
That is why I changed to 3s battery. Never had the problem since.
And yes, yellow is one of the most visible colors. Works great for blades as well.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:03 AM
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The Netherlands, GE, Weurt
Joined Sep 2012
382 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollmops67 View Post
Maybe you have a gyro problrm, look here :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...o#post22539589

Roland
I just resoldered the connections Rollmop and it worked . My gyro was also bend and i put it straight again and just heated the solder on all 4 points and now its fine again :-)

Thanks mate
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