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I have been trying to get a turnigy 9x tx since last Feb, but they would not put that item on backorder. They now will allow backorders so I bought one and will get as soon as they have stock. |
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Hell, I could order a F45 and a handful of main motors from Banggood for that price. ![]() Thanks again you guys, -Pat |
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The Netherlands, ZH, Rotterdam
Joined Aug 2012
66 Posts
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Is there any reason to get the 5000kv motor over the 4100kv? That's a lot more RPM, is it just that much too much for the head? |
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I test a 5100kv motor that was also way to powerfull and it made the heli not flyable. On these, you do not have control of pitch curves so you are at the mercy of the motor and blades you use to determine how everything functions. On a CP heli, You can set head speed independently from pitch curve so you can have high head speed before your pitch comes in. |
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I see the logic. That's superb information. I was flying about an hour ago and was watching how the new motor was compared to the old. I never really noticed any difference in the performance when I went from the stock battery to the nanotech lipo you all recommended. Now that the motor is new it is noticeable. I was skimming over some construction materials and had to punch the throttle a few times to avoid obstacles and it takes right off. I even bumped the nose into a sign (mostly on purpose) to see what would happen and a quick top on the throttle and the recovery was pretty much instant.
I've noticed also that after taking off the rear bars and fins combined with the new battery and the 808 #16 strapped underneath - I can get some pretty serious dives going. I've had the nose to some pretty freaky angles both down and up the last 2 days. I checked the balance and it seems the F45 is now about 1cm forward of the shaft. I'm liking the response I get and since pulling out of a steep dive has not been a problem I'm not sure there's much point trying to change it. It's funny, I fly the F45 somewhat hard but not nearly as crazy as I fly the V929's. I rarely crash it, and try to avoid doing stupid moves as I have more respect for the F45 as it feels less like a toy than the V929's. I really like both. Kind of like having a sport bike and an ATV. |
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F45 Fall of Death
Want to see what happens when you don't buy a simple $3 voltage meter/buzzer-alarm?
![]() "Oh the Carnage" ![]()
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Ouch! As bad as it is, all I can say is at least you caught it on camera. I hope you can salvage most of the bird.
On another note - It would appear I have 3 sets of EH200 with 20a ESC and 0.5M Φ2.3mm 10T pinion with set screw on their way. I'm taking the chance that I'll set these into my F45 and it'll go well enough that I can sell the other 2 sets locally or to other Canadians... We'll see what happens a few weeks from now. I had best get on ordering an 11.1v lipo and some new blades to match it. |
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2012
40 Posts
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May I ask where you bought thenEH200 motors from? Thanks. |
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
451 Posts
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You guys got me into this – special mention to Gordonzo and Markkona! – and a few hundred flights (and many, many crashes) later I feel I’m at least a fair F45 pilot. And, imho I’ve found that this is a cheap, easy to fly, NEAR indestructible, 300ish size FP with some wind capability out of the box.
So I guess others reading our posts will ultimately take the plunge into FP and the MJX F45. As in all helis, there are useful mods. These I have found particularly beneficial, and are mostly from previous contributors - but now collated in one place. FWIW, my own ‘must do’ new F45 checklist (after initial hover test): 1) Install flybar bumper on main boom 2) ‘Paperclip and epoxy glue’ reinforcement of buckle (dogbone) loop guides on rotor head (see p184) – Or Hinnerk’s full rebuild mod when they fail (same page). Done both, on different F45s. 3) Check insulation around the main motor terminals – add heatshrink (or tape) if faulty. The canopy pushes hard on these wires, and a short here will total the FET on the main PCB instantly. Others have reported – and I’ve noted one of mine - coming OoTB with damaged insulation. 4) Anchor the PCB to support struts with glue gun. Similarly anchor other subassemblies to main PCB. 5) Remove at least 3 of the 5 tailrotor motor cover supports for improved airflow. 6) (nice, but not essential) Solid rod replacement for tube landing gear skids (the stock tube cracks very easily in front of the forward skid support). And for better fff, at the expense of a little stability – 7) Shim both blades (3-4 plastic binder reinforcement rings on each blade work well). The blades should be (only just) able to turn the rotor without shifting. 8) Remove horizontal stabiliser and support tubes from the boom. Add an equivalent weight (about 10g) of Bostik blu-tack (or hot glue) inside the nose tip of the canopy - OR fit a longer LiPo as suggested in previous posts, which equally effectively shifts the CoG forward. Finally, and more contentious here! 9) If free flights are going to be consistently over 6 mins, or hovers over 3-4min, fit heatsinks to both motors. Within these limitations, however, I have noticed no difference in motor MTBF between one of my F45s with heatsink, and another without. You get around 8-10h runtime, either way (but of course, YMMV). However, I do agree that with long flight durations in high ambient temperature, it may be possible to destroy one of the brush support arms before the brush wears out, leading to very premature failure. Heatsinks here may tip the balance, unless they occlude the motor ventilation holes. TL, DR? An awesome <$100 heli, but get spare motors. Or go brushless. Additions or corrections welcomed from anyone! - John |
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nice write up John
You can now add change the stock blades to some cheapo walkera #4 blades from Dealextreme if you go brushless they make the responsiveness of the F45 more sharp IMO after trying them outside this morning. I nearly forgot to film my flight and then filmed the last 3 minutes with my mobile phone resting on a stone wall!!! Will see how the clp will come out later on if I get a chance but those blades are definitely staying on the F45 till they break I am going to order a spare set now!!
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as you seem to be having the most fun with your Brushless F45.
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