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Old Aug 29, 2012, 11:25 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,501 Posts
I have the same battery with only 2 flights so far. No problems to speak of. I haven't hit an open field yet so I will have to report whether I see any gains once the weather calms.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 12:28 AM
Registered User
Germany, BW, Göppingen
Joined Aug 2012
70 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCCrashTestDummy View Post
The extra large heat sink was covering one of Stoersender vent hole's on the main motor. I was wondering if the extra cooling capacity would "make-up" the difference, but it appears arrowshooter has this figured-out. The hole he's cut in his over-sized HS solves this problem all together, and has the added benefit of a larger cooling surface.

-Pat
Oh i didnt think about that before... Well so far i didnt have any cooling problems. With the heat sink the temperature is about 15-20°C lower.
But I'm making breaks after 10 mins of flight.
With my big 2200mAh I have about 20mins of flight and with the two 2000mAh it's about 15 mins of flight time.
These babys work like a charm

The best mod I've done so far: cleaning the tail boom: without the horizontal fin and the little aluminium tubes the heli is so much more responsive!
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 12:59 AM
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Geso's Avatar
Spain, Valencian Community, Burriana
Joined Mar 2012
119 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCCrashTestDummy View Post
Geso, I have this exact same battery, and I'm very, very, pleased with it. All I had to do was cut-out the little plastic lip in the front of the battery holder so I could move it forward to change it's center of gravity. This baby flies like a raped ape now. I have so much forward flight now that the batt has been moved, along with removing the 2 tail support bars, vertical, and horizontal stabilizer fins that the main motor can no longer keep up without it continuing to gain speed until it fly's itself into the ground. It's sooooo much more fun to fly now. It can now fly in twice the wind it could before.

What I do is nail the elevator stick full forward, then crack open the throttle all the way. Once it hit's mach 3 I just slowly back of of the elevator and slightly back off the throttle until it (The motor) is able to maintain the same elevation. It freakin hauls ass now!! The wind is not nearly the same factor it use to be, thus allowing me more time in the air. I found that jerking back on the elevator stick will almost stand this thing on it's tail at these speeds, and throw's itself into the death slide. I bet it's damn close to 90 degrees when I do. I just need to figure-out how to fly through this aggressive move cause it looks so cool standing on it's tail! Its a completely different bird now.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I now need a lot more open area to fly this thing in...Had to move into the horse pasture....

-Pat
because you imagine with this...I think couples...: D

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ver_Pack_.html
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 01:08 AM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
770 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geso View Post
because you imagine with this...I think couples...: D

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ver_Pack_.html
That's a LiFePo4 Battery, which is the wrong voltage (6.6v) and will NOT charge using standard LiPo chargers. LiPo chargers will cause this pack to explode.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 02:44 AM
Eternal beginner
Rollmops67's Avatar
France, Alsace, Strasbourg
Joined Jun 2012
644 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoersender View Post
Well so far i didnt have any cooling problems. With the heat sink the temperature is about 15-20°C lower.
I have also heatsinks on both motors, but I frankly think their efficiency isn't very great.
Why ?
Because they are mounted on the stator, and are just good to cool down the magnets (wich of course get hot because off eddy current phaenomenas.)
But what I think gets the hotest are the windings and the brushess of the rotor, and they are not cooled by the heatsink (or just a very little), because the air in the gap between the rotor and the stator is a very good heat-isolator.

Just my 2 cents...

Roland
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 02:54 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
65 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hinnerk View Post
I totaly agree to you that the loops at the rotorhead are the weakest part on this heli. I was visiting a friend on the countryside, where there was much space for flying, when i did my 7th flight the heli suddenly began to tumble in the air, without any crash. After inspekting the heli, i saw both loops broken. This happened in the air! it was verry difficoult to land the Heli safely.
Now i made some loops out of some copper wire, hopefully these one will not break in the middle of an flight.
Ooh, please tell us how you did that !!!! Especially how you fixed the wire loop tot then shaft !

Thanks
Frank
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 03:26 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Roland -
Think you may have a very good point. Have 4 dead motors now (average 80 flights), all failed in exactly the same way. As per the photos posted earlier, one of the brush holders melts/ disintegrates. Have noticed no difference between heat sink and no heat sink in survival times.
Of course, YMMV. but -
Make it 4 cents!
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 04:04 AM
Still learning to fly
Germany, SH, Lubeck
Joined Aug 2012
56 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank183 View Post
Ooh, please tell us how you did that !!!! Especially how you fixed the wire loop tot then shaft !

Thanks
Frank
OK, this is how i made it. I got some copper wire out of an electric cable and bend it, so that it has the shape of the loops, then i twisted some of the wire around the plastic rotorhead and soldered it together with the copperloops in the right position. finaly i drilled a hole through the twisted wire exactly where the old hole in the rotorhead was and placed the srew. Until now this works fine, the heli is stable in the air and reacts exactly the same as with the original loops.



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Old Aug 30, 2012, 04:54 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
65 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hinnerk View Post
OK, this is how i made it. I got some copper wire out of an electric cable and bend it, so that it has the shape of the loops, then i twisted some of the wire around the plastic rotorhead and soldered it together with the copperloops in the right position. finaly i drilled a hole through the twisted wire exactly where the old hole in the rotorhead was and placed the srew. Until now this works fine, the heli is stable in the air and reacts exactly the same as with the original loops.



Hey, thanks a lot !!! I had planned to just that with a paperclip ("Büroklammer").

Did solder the wire direct onto the plastic ?

Best regards
Frank
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 06:40 AM
Still learning to fly
Germany, SH, Lubeck
Joined Aug 2012
56 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank183 View Post
Hey, thanks a lot !!! I had planned to just that with a paperclip ("Büroklammer").

Did solder the wire direct onto the plastic ?

Best regards
Frank
yes, i soldered direct on the plastic, but you have to be carefull not to overheat the plastic.

regards

Hinnerk
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 07:47 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
slot reinforcement

Did Frank mention paperclip?
Worked for me (quite a few crashes, as you can see by cap) but clip araldited to unbroken bar seems to work as reinforcement. Original, still going strong.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 08:49 AM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,766 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 166Valerio View Post
Can anyone recommend a replacement brushless motor that I can
use in the F45.
Based on the many comments made on this site the OEM motors are not of a
good quality.

Thx

Valerio
Click on my name and there are pictures and links to the brushless conversion we are using.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 09:00 AM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2012
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Did Frank mention paperclip?
Worked for me (quite a few crashes, as you can see by cap) but clip araldited to unbroken bar seems to work as reinforcement. Original, still going strong.
Cool. I hoped someone would come up with a fix for this. I like the copper wire idea as well.

How did you attach the paperclip? What's "araldited"? Any chance we can see an even closer closeup?

I'm sure MJX designed these to break so other parts wouldn't. If that's the case, they should have made them easier to replace, like new loops that just snap on.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 09:51 AM
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Joined Aug 2012
65 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hinnerk View Post
yes, i soldered direct on the plastic, but you have to be carefull not to overheat the plastic.
Yes, that's what I thought. Question then is if the screw is really needed or if it is just to stabilize ... ?

Best regards
Frank
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 10:10 AM
Still learning to fly
Germany, SH, Lubeck
Joined Aug 2012
56 Posts
the screw is needet, without it there would be no connection between shaft and rotorhead.
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