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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:27 AM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
754 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HubiQuax View Post
@BThirsk
yes, i have the feeling that these pseud LiPo's are dying, too

@slothy89
Hm, ok, not my dealer. But this is really not funny. For me it is on the border to cheating. On both peaces are labels printed with LiPo and the loading- advices for LiPo's.

@douglas2950
Thank you for all this interesting and very helpful informations
Like it or not, but the stock batteries are not true Lithium Polymer batteries, as it comes from the MJX factory. This is possibly something that has been lost in translation from the Chinese. As even MJX mention them as being LiPo's.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Joined Jul 2011
11 Posts
Well I ordered my MJX F45 last week, it just shipped out from the New York post office, must be where the customs are done. Reading all this is interesting as hell! I ordered the heat sinks for now. Have to read up on the brushless mod. Thanks for all the information. Since getting rid of my nine eagles 260a I have had to play with my daughters Syma S107 to tide me over! Had a CP HK450 but could not get the hang of it so sold that as well. Will work back up to it with my new Copter coming soon!
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 04:08 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Jun 2012
197 Posts
Slothy89:

You mentioned that you use the voltage reader/buzzer from e-Bay to monitor the battery
but after looking at the gizmo I see it has a number of connectors.
Where do you actually plug it in the watch it while flying?

Valerio
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Jun 2012
197 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by slothy89 View Post
As Hayabusa said, 8 minutes is a reasonable flight time to expect from the stock battery. I use a low voltage alarm set for 3.2v per cell and it goes off after about 8-10 minutes depending on how hard I fly it. With the alarm set at 3.2v, this results in the battery being around 3.5v after resting for 10 minutes, and uses about 1000mAh of the full 1500mAh

Around US$3 on eBay. I recommend getting the one with the digital readout and dual piezo buzzers, such as this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8S-Lipo...#ht_2670wt_922

Just plugs into the balance lead of the battery with no impact on battery performance.

You mentioned that you use the voltage reader/buzzer from e-Bay to monitor the battery
but after looking at the gizmo I see it has a number of connectors.
Where do you actually plug it in the watch it while flying?
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 04:32 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Jun 2012
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Originally Posted by HubiQuax View Post
Hi all,

thank you for yor friendly reception in this international forum. Our difficult languages should really not be a problem, we all can use google- translator, and ask if we don't understand.

Yesterday i mounted the heatsink, and i was not realy happy with the placement.
Front direction? - no really air-circulation, i think
Siedeways? - better, but why dont use the wide space between the frame, backwards?

After first mounting i saw that this would close the air- opening at the engine. I took a smaller plier (or pliers? auf deutsch 'Zange') and bent the both middle cooling fins carefull to the front.

Now the cooler fits imo really good, the air- opening stays open, and the canopy touches the cooler just a little bit. I made a test flight (just hoovering about 7 minutes). The cooling effect is really great. I think cause the cooler is now on the open area of the canopy, there should be a lot of streaming air. Temperature- difference felt with fingers ist between 'autsch' to 'oh thats ok' :-)

Here are 2 Pics, i hope my upload works. What do you think about this mod- mod?

Greets HubiQuax
HubiQuax:

Where did you purchase the heatsink?

Valerio
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 04:35 PM
Flying a Falcon or a RC Heli.
fauconnier's Avatar
Canada, QC, Rimouski
Joined Jul 2012
681 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 166Valerio View Post
You mentioned that you use the voltage reader/buzzer from e-Bay to monitor the battery
but after looking at the gizmo I see it has a number of connectors.
Where do you actually plug it in the watch it while flying?
Plug the black wire of the battery to the left pin. Fix it with a velcro under the frame, near the battery connector. Can be adjusted to make a loud alarm sound just before loosing flight quality.
You can see the 2 buzzers on my picture page 113.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 05:12 PM
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Joined Jul 2011
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I just ordered the tail motor and main motor heatsinks at: http://helidirect.com/index.php
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 06:06 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandwidth88 View Post
I just ordered the tail motor and main motor heatsinks at: http://helidirect.com/index.php

I've just viewed the HeliDirect site for main motor heatsinks and don't know which to order.

Are they all the same size in diameter?
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 06:33 PM
1 can 't have 2 many heli's
Belgium, Vlaams Gewest, Kapellen
Joined Jul 2012
98 Posts
Tests

Quote:
Originally Posted by HubiQuax View Post
@BThirsk
yes, i have the feeling that these pseud LiPo's are dying, too

@slothy89
Hm, ok, not my dealer. But this is really not funny. For me it is on the border to cheating. On both peaces are labels printed with LiPo and the loading- advices for LiPo's.

@douglas2950
Thank you for all this interesting and very helpful informations
I did some more tests on a stock F45:

Thrust of the main rotor at full throttle with a 2200mah 20C Lipo : 540g
Weight of a stock F45 ready to fly 460g
This means 80g lift , so if one puts in a lipo 30g heavier than stock one will be left with only 50g lift , not only will the motor have to work harder but the flying and handling will suffer as well.
The climb rate will be 40% less,and this on a bird that wasn't lightfooted to start with.
It all comes down to the balance between capacity in mah and the weight of the lipo.
The trick is finding lipo's that are light and have a high capacity .
These battery's exist but they don't come cheap.
Today I managed to stay in the air for 18min on a GE-power 2500 15C lipo.
No hard flying, just trying to stay in the air turning circles because there were gusts of wind to deal with.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Joined Jul 2011
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EK-002447 for tail motor, and EK-002446 for main!
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 07:16 PM
1 can 't have 2 many heli's
Belgium, Vlaams Gewest, Kapellen
Joined Jul 2012
98 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpc4 View Post
I don't know if this is of any interest or not. But here it is anyway. The mjx main shaft fits exactly on the Heli Max Axe CP The swash plate has same size hole as MJX. The motor was very powerful on the Heli Max also the tail boom was stronger. The frame was almost indestructible. The only thing I hated about the Heli Max was the poor head design it had a nasty habit of flinging blades at you. But as i'm looking at it with a few MJX parts I can have this in the air soon. I'm lacking a fly bar will have to order that. I think I will go with 11.1 volt system since I have the most parts for it. The Heli max has a solid shaft. Slap some metal gear servos on and and a little basic fine tuning and good to go.
Make sure that you rotate the base of the swashplate 45 ccw so that your swash is in sync with the flybar, don't know how it would affect stability if you don't ,but I'm sure the bird would be flying 45 off from the direction you want it to go to.

The walkera CB180 has a similar 45 head and the swash-base turned 45 ccw as well

I'm playing with the idea of converting a 450clone to a F45 head, I found some metal tubing with 6.00mm OD and 5.00mm ID.
This would make a perfect adapter for 5mm shafts .

The EF CYPHER 3D could be a candidate for a head transplant as well, ARTF on Ebay.UK for 85 USD

But first I want to experiment/modify some more on my F45.

2 things I am going to try in the near future:
-Walkera UFLY'S receiver/gyro (2 in 1) + brushless main motor and ESC + brushed direct drive tail(with separate brushed ESC)

-6ch TX/RX (Flysky) with separate gyro and separate ESC's (brusless&brushled)
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 08:01 PM
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United States, VT, Windsor
Joined Apr 2012
354 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by douglas2950 View Post
Make sure that you rotate the base of the swashplate 45 ccw so that your swash is in sync with the flybar, don't know how it would affect stability if you don't ,but I'm sure the bird would be flying 45 off from the direction you want it to go to.

The walkera CB180 has a similar 45 head and the swash-base turned 45 ccw as well

I'm playing with the idea of converting a 450clone to a F45 head, I found some metal tubing with 6.00mm OD and 5.00mm ID.
This would make a perfect adapter for 5mm shafts .

The EF CYPHER 3D could be a candidate for a head transplant as well, ARTF on Ebay.UK for 85 USD



But first I want to experiment/modify some more on my F45.

2 things I am going to try in the near future:
-Walkera UFLY'S receiver/gyro (2 in 1) + brushless main motor and ESC + brushed direct drive tail(with separate brushed ESC)

-6ch TX/RX (Flysky) with separate gyro and separate ESC's (brusless&brushled)
I'm all ears on this one I have about 3 boxes of heli parts and If I can make the heli max fly its a start. What I'm seeing on the bench is when I push forward both ELV and AIL servos push forward same in REV but when I push left and right only AIL servo reacts. My 9116 does this so I shouldn't have a problem. I'm using the best of both worlds. With My 11.1 Esky 4 and 1 will stock mjx stock motors take 11.1 volts I no some motors are rated 6-12 volts My main concern is amperage with 7 volt battery amps are going to be higher than 11 volt system and I don't want to fry new controller I have flown a couple of times but not really worked it.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 08:43 PM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
754 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 166Valerio View Post
You mentioned that you use the voltage reader/buzzer from e-Bay to monitor the battery
but after looking at the gizmo I see it has a number of connectors.
Where do you actually plug it in the watch it while flying?
You connect the battery to the Heli as normal with the red plug, then you used the white plug with 3 wires on the Buzzer. The black wire being the negative (-).

There are markings on the back of the Buzzer denoting which is negative.

The button on the opposite end is used to set the buzzer threshold, which is the voltage it will start to beep at to tell you the battery is low. I use 3.2v as I find the power starts to drop to low on the Heli when the battery reaches this under load.
After landing and leaving the battery at rest, the final voltage is around 3.5v per cell. Also, the battery has used 1000mA of it's total 1500 so is not over discharging.

See my photo's for the attached buzzer.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 11:50 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
108 Posts
very cool

Man,you guys just continue to amaze me,every time I check into my favorite threads theres something new 2 make me want to do but I have way less experience than you guys and alot of the mods can become a little pricey when I have to explain where the milk money went(to the wife) and out of 9 models I now have flying most are nearly stock,but I have them mostly all dialed in for my flying style(w/a little help from RC Group experts) I just want to say THANKS to everyone on all the threads for giving an old fart a really interesting and fun new(permanent) hobby I have alot of mods on most of my helis but they are just basic by your standards,you guys are my Heros, Steve
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 02:40 AM
when is the wind stopping??
markkona's Avatar
Malta, Marsaskala
Joined Apr 2011
1,509 Posts
I have that voltage buzzer and don't use it anymore I just fly 10mins straight and check battery voltage after flight and voltage only drops down to 7.6volts.
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