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Old Jul 10, 2012, 02:27 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,445 Posts
Nevermind... I see it now. 2 3.7v batteries in series, blue goes to the "middle" on the end where you connect them in series.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 03:18 PM
Heli Mania
Hayabusa Heli's Avatar
PNW
Joined Dec 2010
2,604 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
Does anyone know what the centre blue wire does on the stock battery?
I have some extra batteries from another source and I have a bunch of connectors.
I don't want to take apart my good battery to confirm the wiring and where to solder the wires. Does anyone have a photo of the wiring of the battery so we can see where all the wires go? I would guess Black to - and red to + (seems logical) but the blue one is where I get confused...
If you have a voltmeter you can tell which ones are positive and which ones are negative. There should be two positive and one negative I think,
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 03:48 PM
Eternal beginner
Rollmops67's Avatar
France, Alsace, Strasbourg
Joined Jun 2012
632 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
Does anyone know what the centre blue wire does on the stock battery?
I think you're speaking about the white connector with the red, blue and black wire ?

The red wire (+ of the battery) is connected to the (thicker) red wire of the JST connector, and the black wire (- of the battery) to the black one on the jst connector.
Your battery has 2 cells (2x3,7V=7,4V)
The blue wire is taken between the 2 cells, and is necessary to balance the battery while charging.
On other batteries, in 99% of the cases, the color of the red and black wires is the same, it's just the blue cable wich can have another color (on my turnigy batteries it's yellow)
If you need more information about balancing, type something like "lipo battery balancing" on google...
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 04:04 PM
Eternal beginner
Rollmops67's Avatar
France, Alsace, Strasbourg
Joined Jun 2012
632 Posts
F45 windy flight

This evening a flew my F45 with some wind, I think about 20-25 Kmh. (12-16 Mph)
Sometimes I had to have the elevator full forward to be able to hover without flying backwards...
While testing the helis behaviour in the wind I noticed a funny thing :
When placing the heli perpendicular to the wind and using aileron, it has less trouble to fight the wind, especially when it comes from the left side (maybe the tail rotor helps a little bit).
The settings of the links on the servo arm are still stock.

This was the fifth flight outdoors, and each time I learn a little more
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 04:23 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,445 Posts
Quote:
When placing the heli perpendicular to the wind and using aileron, it has less trouble to fight the wind, especially when it comes from the left side (maybe the tail rotor helps a little bit).
I have found this as well.

Quote:
The blue wire is taken between the 2 cells, and is necessary to balance the battery while charging. On other batteries, in 99% of the cases, the color of the red and black wires is the same, it's just the blue cable wich can have another color (on my turnigy batteries it's yellow)
Thanks!
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:20 PM
1 can 't have 2 many heli's
Belgium, Vlaams Gewest, Kapellen
Joined Jul 2012
98 Posts
450 Swashplate

Hello,

I managed to adapt the swashplate from a 450heli and use it on the F45 .
The cyclic movement has almost doubled and the F45 reacts like it gets kicked in the when I push it forward.
I only made a short testflight because it's dark right now, I will give it an extensive testflight tomorrow .
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:54 PM
1 can 't have 2 many heli's
Belgium, Vlaams Gewest, Kapellen
Joined Jul 2012
98 Posts
The third pic I should have called :Full extended RIGHT aileron
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 08:08 PM
Eugene
Whizgig's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by douglas2950 View Post
Hello,

I managed to adapt the swashplate from a 450heli and use it on the F45 .
The cyclic movement has almost doubled and the F45 reacts like it gets kicked in the when I push it forward.
I only made a short testflight because it's dark right now, I will give it an extensive testflight tomorrow .
I have thought about doing this mod myself just to see if it worked and it dose you have proven that it can be done and it looks like it works better that the standard.

Good work Douglas.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 11:05 PM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
758 Posts
The heli will push into the wind better sideways when still stock as the aileron link is further along the servo arm allowing a longer throw. Without the Elevator mod, this will always be the case and the F45s forward motion will not be as strong as its sideways movement.

For those curious about how LiPo/Li-Ion batteries are wired, here is a good site that explains it all with pretty diagrams. Make sure to tick the "Show Balancer wire hookup" to see the second connector as well.
LiPo Wiring Info

For motor heatsinks I have ordered the EK-000208 tail heatsink and the EK-000209 main motor both from the HoneyBee V2 FP.
I did look at the CP3 tail heatsink but thought the fact it doesn't have the flat spot like the tail motor does, it wouldn't be as effective.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 11:08 PM
Heli Mania
Hayabusa Heli's Avatar
PNW
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slothy89 View Post
The heli will push into the wind better sideways when still stock as the aileron link is further along the servo arm allowing a longer throw. Without the Elevator mod, this will always be the case and the F45s forward motion will not be as strong as its sideways movement.
What is the "elevator mod" ... guess I don't recall reading about it. I know the servo arm for the elevator is short to fit inside the frame, and the link is already on the outer most hole. So what's this mod do?
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 11:42 PM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
758 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayabusa Heli View Post
What is the "elevator mod" ... guess I don't recall reading about it. I know the servo arm for the elevator is short to fit inside the frame, and the link is already on the outer most hole. So what's this mod do?
You replace the current servo arm with a new one that is uncut, and cut it yourself. But since there is a bit of room between the frame and the servo, you can get an extra hole or 2 out of it if you cut carefully. This gives you just that little more throw.

Alternatively you could cut the frame so a full length arm could fit and get even more throw.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 12:23 AM
Heli Mania
Hayabusa Heli's Avatar
PNW
Joined Dec 2010
2,604 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by slothy89 View Post
Alternatively you could cut the frame so a full length arm could fit and get even more throw.
That's probably the way to go ... has anyone here done the mod that way? If so, any photos showing how it turned out?
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 01:06 AM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
758 Posts
I have a question, what type of connector is used for the Camera connection? I want to know if it has a specific name, as I am thinking of using it to power an LED Lighting setup that I can turn on/off with the TX.

If anyone has any idea that would be great for me, the Spotlight just isn't enough to help with orientation, especially for Dusk flying.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 01:18 AM
V911 F45 Super CP
Joined Apr 2012
140 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by slothy89 View Post
I have a question, what type of connector is used for the Camera connection? I want to know if it has a specific name, as I am thinking of using it to power an LED Lighting setup that I can turn on/off with the TX.

If anyone has any idea that would be great for me, the Spotlight just isn't enough to help with orientation, especially for Dusk flying.
If your light setup has the same type of 2-pin connector as the stock LED, you can plug it into 2 of the 3 camera pins. Use the pins closest to the stock light connector
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 02:13 AM
Hangin' for a strong SW
slothy89's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
758 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch332 View Post
If your light setup has the same type of 2-pin connector as the stock LED, you can plug it into 2 of the 3 camera pins. Use the pins closest to the stock light connector
Thanks for the tip, but this will be a custom from scratch LED setup, so I need to buy the bits and pieces. Knowing the name of the connector will make this easier

But knowing I can use a 2 pin connector for the front most 2 pins is good. But the 3 pin is preferable, as the plastic is stretched to fit the 2 pin plug in.

If worst comes to worst, I'll just cut the current LED connector off, and include that LED in the custom circuit.
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