This is my first machine made nacelle. It comes out to a true shape. I found that hand sanding can be done just about as easy but takes longer. The glue lines make shaping harder to do. I have to stop and sand the glue down then continue shaping. Doing a glued up block on the drill press would have been real hard to do. A solid block with a 1/2 inch dowel glued in deeper would be easy on either machine..

I think a solid block of blue foam would have been a good way to go. I would then split in half and re-glue together again after hollowing with a Dremel or hot blade. It is possible to hollow without splitting also.

Emily nacelles were made in a solid block and sanded to shape. Works well for hand sanding. These were a piece of cake.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=55

Now to make 3 more.
**Neons** Bob

Originally Posted by cracksmeup

Thanks for the foam imfo Bob .The last tip will do me no good i dont own a lathe yet . joe

A standard DIY drill is almost as good as a lathe. The chuck has to be big enough to fit the centre dowel though. You can spin up cowl fronts, spinners, wheels etc etc on no time at all. The difficulty is getting the dowel centred properly before you start, and finding a vice big enough to hold the drill steady.

A really good build, Neons, and lots of inspirational techniques. We all tend to stick with techniques we know work, and it's good to see different ways of solving the problem.

Mike you are very right. I did not mention a portable drill due to the fact it must be secured very stable. It would for instance need to be secured to a board with a couple of cutout formers the shape of the drill. The drill has to be high enough for the foam to swing so it could be sanded down. Another "tailstock" for adjusting the centering of the opposite end dowel or pin. The reason for firmly securing the whole thing is that the foam pattern is of rectangular shapes. Small objects would probably be fine. Glue lines give vibration. The spinning will bounce and vibrate the system and the center dowel will loosen. It has to be almost pre shaped oversize before starting. I put a nail through the dowel to make a better driving force and to help the drive dowel staya glued . Spinning the part should be very fast. Most portable drills are slow. That is why a drill press or wood lathe is nice to have. For a person with no tools stay with the old way of hand sanding to shape. It is positive.
**Neons** Bob

I always have problems sanding PU glue. Is there a better glue to use that sticks to foam but sands easier? Perhaps wood glue (Titebond) would work?

I have never used Titebond so I am not to well versed on it. I did an RC Groups Search on Titebond and there are 10 answer threads there with comprisons. It is a waterbased but non foaming glue. It will require an overnight hardening before you attempt work on it. It will clean up with water and can be thinned. It is in the white and yellow glue family. This is not for me.

I have a friend using it and likes it. He is a slow builder. I am very progressive builder and I get annoyed at anything that slows me down while working. As a matter of fact I just glued up 3 nacelle blanks and used 30 minute epoxy. I wish it was 5 minute epoxy. I think the thin layer of epoxy will be harder than my Elmers Ultimate and should machine the shapes better.
**Neons** Bob

I got the 3 other nacelles done today. The epoxy was not totally hard but I went ahead anyway to get them done. Mounts and firewalls are next. I see wiring also coming up before I can finish the sheeting under the nacelles.
**Neons** Bob

I decided that the timing to do my wiring for the motors and ESC's, and aileron servos is now. What better time than with the open spaces. I used #14silicon wires. This stuff has some weight to it. When I pick up the wing at the spar the wing tilts forward with the wires. At least it is forward the CG. I cut and spliced all the joints then shrink wrapped them. The 3 wire connectors are all in. I bought all raw 3 wire length. I cut them to fit with some slack.

Then I have the #202 tool for installing the plugs and pins on them. The male Futaba plug that is at the wing joints fits snug in a slot I made in the plywood rib face. It will be glued in place sticking out 3/8". When I slip the outer wings in place I just plug the female in. The outer wings will have a small mating slot with room for a wire looping in it when the wing pushes together. I have the balsa sheeting glued on tonight and setting up.
**Neons** Bob

Info Added:
I believe a set of these on each motor will do the trick. HK listing.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17100

Here is the story on spikes effecting Esc's over time.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523

Bob

are you going with your plan and mounting the esc's with the motors?

its just everything i have read says extend the wires from the esc's to the motors and mount the escs as close to the battery as possible?


david

Dave and Bob I have my 1 esc mounted in the fuse by my lipo's with good wire running to all four motors .I have read the same thing as you have David in many threads ,here and the all electrict forums .Bob i know also you had your other big seaplane set up the way you are going on this one with wiring the esc's close to the motors . joe

Both of you are right. I believe I will have space for some capacitors. . It is not on my immediate to-do list at the moment. I have 10 feet of #14 wire in this layout so far with +/- wires. If I go with 3 wires per motor of maybe #14 and maybe over 25 feet long which would most likely double the weight in there now. I think capacitors are better and to have each ESC behind the motor getting air in the cowlings.
Here is the article
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523
I just have not ordered any yet.
**Neons** Bob

not sure how much of all this is "internet say so"... there are so many factors to consider... and cooling the esc's is a major concern on my Sunderland build so i know why you ar thinking the way you are!
in fact i have bought four 40a esc's for the Sunderland rather than the usual 30amp i use (twice the price and 50% heavier) with the motors i am using in it.
i am thinking "full power" will rarely be used on mine with the available power/weight

d

Originally Posted by **neons**

Both of you are right. I believe I will have space for some capacitors. . It is not on my immediate to-do list at the moment. I have 10 feet of #14 wire in this layout so far with +/- wires. If I go with 3 wires per motor of maybe #14 and maybe over 25 feet long which would most likely double the weight in there now. I think capacitors are better and to have each ESC behind the motor getting air in the cowlings.
Here is the article
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523
I just have not ordered any yet.
**Neons** Bob

Because i have very little room for heat to move around in my polaris it would shut down my esc ,so i did use a capacitor on it but my one esc has not got hot nor even warm in the big fuse of my solent . Its your plane Bob and i watch and learn while you build . joe

So far I have had luck with my other few planes. This has a bit more distance on the wires. I think if you can place them in the fuselage there is enough air volume in there for a flight without overheating. . Like I said it is a lot of wires when you go into multi motors. I feel it in the wing already. I'll just take my chances. Joe only has 1 ESC with brushed motors in his multi motor plane to be concerned about.

I sealed my ESC's with hot glue and they are each tucked in the nacelles with air in and out. The plastic dummy motor cylinders help keep spray down a little and I have exit holes under the nacelles also. That plane has powerful motors putting ot well over 1000watts and 18lb of thrust. These motors for this plane are Blue Wonders HXT -DT-750's and put out stock 2.5lb. thrust each. I feel if I am under 14lb. gross weight they will fly the plane fine. I can also rewind them for better efficiency if needed..
**Neons** Bob

The way you are going Bob i think you will meet your under 14 pound weight by using the foam as you have in the build. .Do you use any corrision X on your esc's ? I have not used any ,If water gets to miy esc in the fuse ,i dont think corresion x is going to make any difference cause the plane will more than likely be trashed anyways. I did mount it on a platform in the middle ,up and down in the fuse so if it tipped over and floated water could not get to it easy. joe

I bought spray Corrosion X. I probably should have bought it in the container instead. It is recommended to submerge the equipment for a short time and then hang to dry. I usually seal the whole ESC in hot glue and take my chances. That is it. I have not done any submersing in X. I have had some planes running under water on the surface. I also had some burn the ESC and battery. I have not had much problems with recievers or servos. The screws rust after a couple years. I also use a water tight box and balloons with good luck. They have to have air space in them or they condense humidity after use and still get water molecules inside.
**Neons** Bob