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Old Apr 01, 2012, 03:36 AM
e-powered foam
rawy's Avatar
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Hi Bob,

Found this link on the german Warbird forum, intresting recent detail from Mars wingfloats at the Mars homebase

http://www.warbirdforum.de/forum/thr...0e8b8297775bb0
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 07:14 AM
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What kind of resin do you use Bob ? Joe
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 09:18 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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Rawy,
Thanks or the link. I registered and it has yet to be approved. I cannot do anything in there until then. It was a problem registering. I had to open 2 tabs to translate the form.

Joe,
I have been using Parks - Super Glaze Epoxy. It is not as good as West System but does the job pretty good. Found in Home Depot in a yellow boxed 2 pint bottle package. I find that Epoxy cures forever. It just gets harder as it ages along.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
Rawy,
Thanks or the link. I registered and it has yet to be approved. I cannot do anything in there until then. It was a problem registering. I had to open 2 tabs to translate the form.

Joe,
I have been using Parks - Super Glaze Epoxy. It is not as good as West System but does the job pretty good. Found in Home Depot in a yellow boxed 2 pint bottle package. I find that Epoxy cures forever. It just gets harder as it ages along.
**Neons** Bob
Sounds good and probly cheaper but the big question is how does it sand ? joe
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:03 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
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I relate it too sanding any epoxy or polyester glass. Very easy actually. It does well with wet or dry sanding. In have been using it for years now and did my Me-109-G6 and Folke Wolf 190-D9 with it. I built the fuses from foam plugs with this Parks product . Very succesfully too.
Bob
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:03 AM
e-powered foam
rawy's Avatar
swiss watch makers area
Joined Dec 2002
812 Posts
Sorry Bob did'nt realize one has to be logged in to see the pics

There seems to be a substantial mess on the base and the pics are not exceptional but the wingfloats detail is very good and watching at your recent pics I remembered how it is when doing some shapes in foam theres never enough detail or perspectives to help me
that's the major reason why my shape works can span several years

can't wait to see those floats
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:32 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
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Thanks Rawy,
I have the drawings here anyways. I am about to go shape these floats right now. It is a short process. i have to embed a hard stick into them that will take screws also. I usually score the stick with small drilled holes for glue or epoxy to penetrate and hold better.

Here is a reference to my Emily when I made foam floats. Read this page link and the next one also. It shows the process.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1417974&page=5

**Neons** Bob
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 12:48 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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Rawy. I started my sanding at 12:00 Noon here. I was done at 13:30 hours. Very easy to do. I believe yesterday I got 1.5 hours getting the rough shapes done. 3 hours total. I am so happy for foam. Way stronger than a balsa build up float. I can also say that foam allows you to sand a nice concave shape to the bottom. Another plus. Can't do that with balsa either unless it is thick or a block. The 2 floats weigh in at 1.6oz. (45 grams). Time saved? Enormous. I am next going to put the hardwood screw mount in. Then work on the plywood strut mounts.
**Neons** Bob

Added another pic update:
I glued in the mount stick. It just took about another hour. I am working the V strut mounts now.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 05:54 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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Floats Assembled

I sanded the V struts mounting sticks and screwed the V strut to the floats. I am done for now on the 2 plug in wings. The floats will be epoxyed when I do the fuselage. The floats weigh 2.9oz. each now. I have started getting the middle main wing leading edge and sheeting ready for nacelles. There is sheet balsa in this area also.The nacelles will be foam and balsa with fiberglass cowls.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
I sanded the V struts mounting sticks and screwed the V strut to the floats. I am done for now on the 2 plug in wings. I have started getting the middle main wing leading edge and sheeting ready for nacelles. There is sheet balsa in this area also.The nacelles will be foam and balsa with fiberglass cowls.
**Neons** Bob
Thats what i want to see you tackle is the nacelles ,I had to plank mine and even tho they turned out fine it took me a long time to plank ,puddy and fiberglass them. joe
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 06:16 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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Joe,
Basically there are a few ways to do the nacelles. On my Emily I just chunked 4 blocks of foam and did some hollowing sticks and ply firewall with some Dremel mods.. Fast and done. They came out very nice. I think I will do it with 4 sides of 3/4" foam sheet glued. It will have an automatic square hollow inside right to the wing. Wood sticks inside to a ply firewall. Room for air, wires and Esc's. How simple can that get?
**Neons** Bob
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
Joe,
Basically there are a few ways to do the nacelles. On my Emily I just chunked 4 blocks of foam and did some hollowing sticks and ply firewall with some Dremel mods.. Fast and done. They came out very nice. I think I will do it with 4 sides of 3/4" foam sheet glued. It will have an automatic square hollow inside right to the wing. Wood sticks inside to a ply firewall. Room for air, wires and Esc's. How simple can that get?
**Neons** Bob
Get plenty of pictures ,its looking like my planking days are comming to a end Bob. joe
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:12 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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Wing Plug Lock - Nacelle Blanks

Here we have 2 operations. I like the the push in wire through the spars plugs. Planning is essential for placement. I moved them in about 3/4" from the wing joint. Better holding power for the dihedral position. Also it moves the holes away from the joint to help stop a crack across the hole and a weak spot near the joint. I used 3/32" tubing that allows a 1/16 inch piano wire to pass through.

I used a 1/16 wire on a drill and drilled the holes through the both wing spars from the leading edge. The wing has to be held in the non sagging dihedral position before drilling. The brass tube is marked and cut with a Dremel cuttoff tool. They have to be longer than the space it will fit by at least 1/8" each end to set in the wood and glued. Two plugs and 2 pieces of brass. After secured the wing is renoved and 2 small cut pieces of brass are made 3/16"long to go into the holes on the plugs. The plugs are 1/4" wide. I pushed them in with help of needlenose pliers. These prevent wear in the wing plug tips and take out any slack in the dihedral. All that is needed now is to make 2 pieces of 1/16" wire with a bend on the end. Push it all the way in. The brass guides make it line up and go right on through. Shown in the picture with a 1mm carbon rod going through. I sharpened a point on it. The brass sticks out the leading edge. I have to add another leading edge balsa molding and then fair it to the edge.

Next is my start on a sample nacelle block. I used 1 inch foam and a piece of 2 inch foam cut into a horshoe shap near the wing end. I oversized the outside diameter to 4 inches. This gives me a square inside opening about 2 inches. Two 1/4" sticks will go from the main wing spar to the firewall plywood from inside the square hollow. I will have air space for my Esc's also with motor plugs. I will shape and test fit tomorrow as this is the initial test nacelle. II could put a dowel through the nacelle and shape it in the drill press or lathe also. I may just hand shape it. If it works out I will make the other 3 nacelles. I think it is going to be a go.
**Neons** Bob
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Last edited by **neons**; Apr 03, 2012 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:14 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
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Foam Usage Tips

This is about the foam I am using for making parts. They are both made by Dow Corning. The blue is heavier density thus slightly heavier. Found in Loew's. The pink from Home Depot is very light and low density. The both sand very well if you pay attention to sanding and the grit. I like #36 - 60 grit to rough it in.

I first use a small break a point knife fully extended and attack the foam part I am making. Stay away from drawn lines. These knives are a must have with thick foam.

I use #100 to get closer. This is where you may get scrapes and pieces if you do not clear the dust load up in the paper. If you get chunking, it is because there is grain in foam. Sand single strokes toward you or away. Change down grit size. I finish shaping with #150. This puts it smooth enough to be epoxy/glassed.

I use home made 1/2 sheet block with different grits. You may see them in some pictures. There is a new screen type sandpaper at Home Depot that sheetrock drywallers use. I may try it some time. The dust goes through it.

When possible do the sanding and roughing outdoors on a breezy day to blow the dust away from you. Shaping round objects is best done on a lathe or drill press spinning fast. . Sand lightly so it does not destroy itself in your face. Use a center dowel glued in to keep the work held steady or else something bad can happen to the part. You may not be happy about it.
**Neons** Bob
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Last edited by **neons**; Apr 04, 2012 at 08:22 AM.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:48 AM
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United States, IL, Joliet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
This is about the foam I am using for making parts. They are both made by Dow Corning. The blue is heavier density thus slightly heavier. Found in Loew's. The pink from Home Depot is very light and low density. The both sand very well if you pay attention to sanding and the grit. I like #36 - 60 grit to rough it in.

I first use a small break a point knife fully extended and attack the foam part I am making. Stay away from drawn lines. These knives are a must have with thick foam.

I use #100 to get closer. This is where you may get scrapes and pieces if you do not clear the dust load up in the paper. If you get chunking, it is because there is grain in foam. Sand single strokes toward you or away. Change down grit size. I finish shaping with #150. This puts it smooth enough to be epoxy/glassed.

I use home made 1/2 sheet block with different grits. You may see them in some pictures. There is a new screen type sandpaper at Home Depot that sheetrock drywallers use. I may try it some time. The dust goes through it.

When possible do the sanding and roughing outdoors on a breezy day to blow the dust away from you. Shaping round objects is best done on a lathe or drill press spinning fast. . Sand lightly so it does not destroy itself in your face. Use a center dowel glued in to keep the work held steady or else something bad can happen to the part. You may not be happy about it.
**Neons** Bob
Thanks for the foam imfo Bob .The last tip will do me no good i dont own a lathe yet . joe
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